J.R.

An engine.

They are a good risk for the underwriters, better than EV's, lightning never strikes twice in the same place 😄

Farmers can also get free barns with solar roofs, if they want walls and doors they have to contribute a bit but otherwise its 100% free including the foundations and concrete slab (I'm not 100% sure of the latter). Thats in my region in the sunny South West, they are springing up like mushrooms just as the solar car parks on new developments however I have not seen a single one in glacial Picardie so they probably are not viable at all in the UK aside from the companies run by someones brother in law 😄

Does the seat have a canbus node? I'm thinking that it probably has and you have not updated the installation list to show the new installed module, VCDS will show a comms error, a module trying to communicate with the ECU or the ECU unable to communicate with the old one will probably result in the network and all the modules remaining awake, that big spark that you get when you disconnect the battery. Same deal as when the head unit is replaced with a Chinese one on earlier vehicles, you have not given any details of your vehicle so we cannot say if this is the case. It was on my 2006 Octavia but not with the 2015 Yeti.

Acceleration of the vehicle resulting from throttle pedal input was never linear even when there was a cable connecting the pedal to the throttle butterfly or injector pump, far from it. My criticisms of most modern vehicles is the lag or response time and the artificial damping of that power response to reduce emissions, that is probably what changes most when reprogramming the parameter. I drove a Peugeot hatchback around 2002 and it had a damper on the throttle pedal, normal minimum return spring opposition if you slowly opened the throttle but a huge force needed to open it quickly, so much so that after only a couple of minutes of spirited driving my right leg muscles were burning, that was done for emissions, now the ECU does it. You simply do not get the initial push in the back from any modern vehicle now matter how many hundreds of horsepower they have compared to an old school vehicle.

That really made me laugh! 😄

Major rises in insurance combined with major rises in standing charges for off peak electric contracts combined with a major reduction in the offpeak hours (now 4 hours down from 😎 plus the price being jacked up on the 20 hours of peak consumption collectively make EV's a much less attractive proposition especially as they will all continue to go up in the same manner. Aside from the insurance I have been saying for a long time that is what will happen with electricity prices for off peak tariffs as I have seen it happen over the last 2 decades in France from EDF, way before any electric cars appeared, the same EDF that seems to own most of the electricity generating plants in the UK, they know exactly what they are doing and once someone changes to EV they are a voluntary captive audience to being overcharged.

Thats what I wanted to hear 😀 I have a feeling that a fuse might mysteriously blow soon!

What does it drive like in 2WD mode? I am missing giving the driver inputs required for a powerfull FWD vehicle, I need to keep my hand in! I had an early Suzuki Jeep, RWD or 4WD, the rear diff was self destructing so for a week to be able to get to work I removed the rear propshaft and engaged the 4WD transfer box to run in in FWD only, it was appalling but then never designed for FWD.

Blimey that was quick! Worthwhile to avoid going down the wrong path. "The car feels quicker in low gears with the fuse out" - that could be simply through less transmission losses or feeling more lively through torque steer etc, its possible that the max torque intervention is not applied in 2WD mode in the lower gears because a wheel would spin causing a 3 letter acronym intervention, that is to say perhaps its only needed for the lower gears when 4WD is engaged. I would be looking at the timing marks again given the belt change, sometimes its difficult to see if they would line up better advanced or retarded one tooth, you cant check the torsion angle on a non PD engine but I think there might be some kind of electronic injector timing regulation through VCDS etc after a timing belt change, others may confirm. Failing that have a look at the inlet tract around the throttle/anti run on valve for clagging, finally get the DPF soot measurements and the differentiel pressure from VCDS or similar, it might be blocked.

Mine will never brake traction unless a really greasy or icy surface because the 4WD engages before it could happen, I have never ever had an ESC intervention, if I did I would deduce that the Haldex was not functioning. I think that it is actually the former, if you remove the fuse to disable the Haldex and it still will no spin the front wheels or trigger one of the 3 letter acronyms then you are seriously lacking power, you already know that you are but that would prove it, I dont think what you are doing at present is a valid test on a 4WD vehicle. There is also an electronic "torque limitation" figure programmed in the ECU, it can be viewed in VCDS, it is there to protect the transmission, as the torque is multiplied in the lower gears I doubt that any of these vehicles except perhaps mine when it had 108hp give the full beans in 1st gear.

I would check to make sure that they havn't drained your diff oil by mistake and left it dry, an easy mistake but one that a garage with a ramp should never make, unfortunately far too many do leaving their customers facing huge repair bills. Crow cawwing does sound like a failing differential having had a few of them over the years does it do it during turns or in a straight line? Does it do it when you accelerate?

Not the same engine spec so perhaps not relevant but mine when it was the standard 108hp spec was exactly as you describe and even when not towing once above say 40mph in 5th or 6th gear. The remap to an alleged 184hp has transformed it into the vehicle yours should have been from the start, I'm not convinced of the power figure, I reckon its a 170hp map but the torque is superb and having the smaller turbo comes in at lower revs, basically very powerfull from 1500 right through to 5K rpm although you never need to use those sort of revs unless you have made a mistake of judgement when overtaking in which case its comforting to know that you will not need to change up.

I wasn't trying to spark a debate, just trying to either clarify or disabuse another claim that something is illegal, it's a hobby horse of mine I'm afraid and I really cant help myself, my requests are always polite and respectful, the responses often not when the person does not want to admit that there is in fact no law. As interesting as your discourse about insurance is and I agree with your sentiments it says nothing about a supposed law being broken. I hadn't read the previous posts so did not know what you were on about.

Does the computer intervene in your thought processes and rationality? I'm still hoping to learn what the law is that says replacement tyres must be within 10% (of what?) of the tyres being replaced. If such a law exists then one needs to work up in steps, 10% at a time to create a Monster Truck.

Sorry, not biting. Peace be with you.

You really must start asking yourself whether something you have read (or imagined) is plausible before repeating it. That sort of nonsense was rife in France and dissimulated by EDF/Energis who had a vested interest, 99.99% of the people here swallow it which equates to the in most cases forced take up of the Linky meters, I am one of the 0.01% and have yet to meet another, they tried all sorts, frequently doorstepping me and trotting out the ridiculous to me line which works with 99.99% of French people "you are the only one not converted in the area" expecting me to be ashamed. There were also lots of false stories printed that those who had not converted would be charged hundreds of Euros a year for meter reading as the government had allowed a law change. In fact all that happened was that if I do not inform them of my meter reading then I will be charged €8 every 2 months until I do so. Even that cannot happen in practice because the contract I have with them (I will not sign another) obliges them to tke a meter reading every 12 months not me, I paid an awfull lot of money to supply and install 8 EDF approved latest generation meters in 2013 including the comms cabling to the outside remote reading pastille which is now redundant together with their meter readers. Why the heavy hand? Well its just scare stories but the reason behind them is that once a smart meter is fitted they can remotely cut off your supply or restrict it to 3kw or even 1kw when it suits them, they will of course lobby for the law changes giving them the powers to do so, I guarantee you that it will be declared to be for reducing CO2 or whatever the mantra of the day is then.

I wont be able to check until I return to Bergerac but the U split in front of your finger and the two flat portions either side are normal and present in a new coupling, I'm not sure about the irregular bits beyond it though without seeing my new one. I will also check the one on my vehicle, perhaps the moulded in gap has extended into cracks as yours appears to have. I will get back to you within a week.

I followed your advice Tom: Showing results for the tolerance is 10%... but the speedo is not allowed to under read. Search instead for the tolerance is 10%... but the speedo is not aloud to under read.

Your response is somewhat at odds with your claim to not give a monkeys, have you perhaps confused me with someone else? I am not your mate and I am not worried about anything as I explained but thank you nonetheless for your observations following your (mis)perception. I have no intention of ripping my car apart but once again thank you for your observations of how you believe it would make me feel. Peace be with you.

I'm pleased you have better things to worry about, I don't because I am neither worried by the horn nor anything else. Horses for courses! 😀

@Crasher Sounds like you have done many Crasher, myself only the one after doing all you said and persevering for a long time bleeding until I believed I had found the cause which necessitated the gearbox removal and replacement of the concentric slave cylinder + clutch & DMF while there. My belief and theory based on my autopsy and comments from others is that the failures are exclusively happening to the later 2 piece all plastic slave cylinders, that they are not leaking fluid but instead drawing in air, I speculate that this is being drawn in via the O ring seal between the plastic cylinder and the plastic feed pipe that comes out of the bellhousing, this being exacerbated by vibration movement (the pipe comes through a much bigger hole in the bellhousing) and possibly failure or removal of the clutch peak torque limiter (the return flow restrictor). Does this concur with the failed cylinders that you have removed and what are your observations or comments?

What law is that and what is the tolerance please?

It slips then locks and the inertia of the alternator causes the belt slack, tensioner movement and belt squeal. Better than my description would be to try moving it in both directions by hand, you will feel exactly what is going on inside and it isn't pretty! Instead of the rollers climbing smoothly up & down the ramp the bits of broken rollers floating around cause them to snag.

Alternator pulley one way (sprag) clutch failure if you look you will see the tensioner and the slack side of the belt oscillating.