J.R.

You do now, that was the final straw that made me get the emissions fix rolled back 18 months ago, I have only been aware of 2 regens since then! IE fans running at switch off, high idle speed etc. I think that they rushed the emissions fix software and made some serious errors.

Thank you for sharing your thoughts, they say a lot about you.

No it does not have the means to promptly discharge the battery, it allows the vehicles systems to do that, I was over-egging it somewhat! I can see and agree with your logic regarding extending the battery life, my choice would be to hobble the battery mismanagement system but I'm a Luddite. I am assuming that your voltage measurements are taken with the battery disconnected and you are not being misled by the considerable volt drop from the woken up controllers. I am having to do similar charging with my new to me electro-hydraulic tipping trailer, I can hear when it needs charging but the measured voltage looks reasonable, there really is a big difference for a few tenths of a volt and it doesn't help that the nominal voltage of 12v indicates a pretty much flat battery.

I got fed up with the 10 minutes of advertising for torches and stuff, after 15 minutes he still had not got any further forward than describing a flying garage door in 20 different ways. I wont watch any of his stuff again after that.

I would fall asleep at the wheel long before I reached even a first innings of 10000 miles. What are you supposed to do between innings? Drink beer in the clubhouse?

But do you have a battery mismanagement system? 2015 I believe is the change point, thankfully I dont have one, if yours is then it will promptly discharge it again to 80% SOC so you can save the planet! I understand where you are coming from, I would not be happy with a partially discharged battery and would disconnect the shunt resistor rather than keep charging the battery.

Oil? I've never been aware of oil in my previous Skodas! 😒

Short runs no longer discharge the batteries of modern vehicles with a minimum of 90 ampere alternators often much much more than that, they can recharge a battery from a cold start in seconds even with the maximum electrical load being used. I am sure the voltage he is seeing is correct for a vehicle with a battery mismanagement system and allowing for the volt drop from the canbus modules woken up. He has not reported any difficulty in starting, but hey, plenty of places will take his money to replace a perfectly servicable battery if it makes him happy.

That is a normal reading of your vehicle has start/stop and the battery management system that charges on the over-run, I think your model year will have that but others will confirm. Basically it never fully charges your battery so that it can recover the kinetic energy when braking or slowing down through the alternator. Also when you took your before start reading you will have woken up all the canbus modules after opening the car door and bonnet, these draw a lot of current, enough to give a 0.5 volt drop to your meter reading.

Mine is on most of the time as it helps to stop the screen misting etc in the cooler and colder months, in summer its on and I need it but do then notice the extra fuel consumption, if its really hot and I have chosen to drive with the windows open then I will switch the AC off, mine is the standard Climatic so no ECON setting, I have to switch off the AC button. And again I think it defaults back to AC the next time I start the vehicle.

You are overthinking it, it is not difficult, the AC is on by default all the time whether set to cold or hot except if the ECON button is depressed. I'm pretty sure it will revert back to the default AC setting the next time you start the vehicle.

Not just you, I dont want a tea tray sticking up from the dashboard and I dont want to be distracted having to look at it to use functions of the vehicle that I have been able to do by touch and not sight in every vehicle since I started driving. Not only is it a step back but dangerous for me having sight in only one eye, and dangerous for all those who cant remove their eyes from their phones as they will cast them to the screen or whatever its called probably making themselves legal (and lethal!) in the process. On a more practical level I often carry 3m lengths of building materials like steel stud plasterboard framing rails inside the vehicle supported on the dashboard, passenger seatback and rear loading floor I protect the windscreen with foam that I carry under the boot floor. The teatray would be in the way and if it got hit by shorter stuff when breaking or when loading the 3m stuff either side I would have a £500 bill, probably a £1000 one for a part they pay maybe £40 for. It aint gonna happen!

Crazy that the Roomster Scout should have rubber band tyres! I was interested initially but IIRC it did not have 4WD so aside from some bits of plastic what makes it worthy of the name Scout?

Welcome and I would really like to see some photographs please! I have the rear seats now permenantly remove in the Yeti and am using it as a van, because I had already adapted and fitted a Variofloor from an Octavia1 it leaves a step down at the front which is also where the diff noise enters the cabin, I was going to convert it to a bed and storage but cant see me going away rough camping for a long while but I think I may create a removable platform to store more stuff underneath and to create a level loading area. Of course I could put an air mattress above it for sleeping but I would like it to be removable for carrying high items like cycles sideways through the rear doors. Hence my interest in your conversion. I have a Klepper folding kayak, its as old as me and in better condition, I can carry it on my back while cycling but dont have the balance and the instant reactions at my age for it to be safe so I put it on the bike trailer, for security reasons I prefer to use the car, a bike, trailer and the storage bags are easily stolen and assembling the kayak is a long specatator spectacle. So whilst the two bags can be carried easily in the car even on a seat or in the footwells I prefer to pre- assemble the front and back sections to put them in the skin quickly on site and debarque before attracting any attention, the bags etc are then (relatively) safely locked in the car. A Klepper (now made by Wayland) kayak might fit your needs.

Its not the filling which is the danger but the draining, its obvious which are the filler plugs and which is the diff and which the Haldex, the drain plug for the Haldex seem equally obvious, directly underneath the filler at the bottom of the casing but it is a trap, maybe even a designed in one by some twisted person, the actual drain plug does not look like one at all and is disguised as one of the row of fasteners holding the casings together, it even has the same or similar head.

For the sake of one more connector on the door and a seperate door loop made of flexible wire cores VAG vehicles would never have suffered any of these problems, I understand the cost implications for not doing so but a different design of the loop and bellows could have removed the strain from the cables, how do other manufacturers do it?

I bought a kit of the connector and loose pre-terminated wires as a precaution for the day when my drivers door cables start failing, of course it might be the tailgate.

Agreed, the fault will most likely to be the same as before but it is a very unsatisfactory repair (other than in an emergency) for wiring anywhere in the vehicle let alone inside the door loop. Come back and bite you meant to convey that it would fail again probably at a very inconvenient time. When I built my first Westfield I fell in with some younger enthusiastic kit builders in my area, one needed to shorten the handbrake cable so simply cut it and clamped the pieces together with the brass inner of a chocolate block 😒 I wont even use them on house wiring now, I only use Wagos despite being the tightest guy on earth and my pal giving me a huge boxload of Dominoes when he switched to Wagos, the crafty blighter also gave me some mixed samples of Wagos to try out, like him there was no going back.

I found exactly the same, I had some Painters Mate in the silicone gun at the time so used that, silence afterwards. The engine covers seem to be made in 2 or 3 pieces, the basic cover that functions then some stupid clip in bit looking like a group of fat eels supposed to resemble a tuned intake tract or a plain one on the basic models and then the manufacturers name, its these bits that dont fit properly and rattle. The Yeti as yet has not suffered aside from the air/water seperator on the air intake (to avoid ingesting flood water) that resonated for the same reasons, these are very difficult noises to trace and impossible on your own as you can no longer actuate the throttle from under the bonnet.

Taste.

New shock absorbers will not make any difference whatsoever to the camber, castor, toe in or thrust angle of the rear suspension, not one iota. Loading the vehicle sagging springs or lowered springs will all create adverse wear to the inside of the rear tyres.

Then whatever you do do not follow the bodge that Dimple has done as it will bite you back in the future. No form of joining should be done within the door loop bellows aside from a get you home bodge, soldering especially as any soldered cable subject to repeated flexing will fail. You can buy kits of the connectors and pre-terminated wires so that the joins can be made within the protected area of the door, any joins there should still be of a good standard, soldered or crimped and well insulated, certainly not chocolate block connectors or Dominoes as they are known in France.

If you mean between fuel retailers then I agree, if you mean between the fuel companies blending additives and a pigeon pouring snake oil that they know zilch about into their fuel tank then there is a massive difference. I cannot see any reason why not to throw €50 notes out of the window while driving other than to save not waste money!

Probably the rear main bearing seal in which case.