J.R.

Thankyou for your kind words, would you care to enlighten me?

It could be that the bearing incorporated in the new slave cylinder is a bit latchety, it will either quieten down or get worse, all you can do is keep an eye on it. I cant think of anything else that could be rattling but do look at where the metal pipe comes through the hole in the bellhousing, any movement there might cause a rattle, it has the mass of the bleed block hanging off it in free air.

Still the brushes wont be as worn as they would be!

Almost certainly, the light is for pretty much any engine fault, in summer weather the glowplugs are not needed at all other than to reduce the cranking time by milliseconds, the post start up cylinder heating is for emissions. You may well have a faulty glowplug or problem in the circuit but I doubt it will be affecting your idle running.

Mine dont seem to have gotten any worse, like any scab it's not a good idea to pick at them. Zinc Inclusions that is!

I have certainly considered it and its a job I have to do soon as I had to put the wrong coolant in during the confinement after having realised I had filled it with tap water only when I rebuilt the car, the tap water came out clean as a whistle showing that the Silkat works, except my tank is not marked Mit Silkat and I cant see any teabags! My concern is that there would be considerable mixing of old and new, when you start seeing new coolant coming out, if you can even see the difference it will probably be 50/50 new and old, if you do the maths then you could use that method 50 times and still have some of the old coolant remaining, against that when you drain there is a lot left in the engine block etc. I have used the method for adding neat anti-freeze to increase the concentration, I think its what I did last time in fact, if the existing stuff is compatible with the new then I will probably do the same this time.

Maybe a conversion from foot-pounds? 19 or 188!

It would have the opposite effect, thermostat will only open when the coolant reaches the thermostats opening temperature, if you want the coolant to warm up quicker you do not take heat from the system.

They will probably be awarded green credits for having "recycled" them, enough to continue using their private jets to travel to corporate jollies and climate change conferences!

If an assembly line was for whatever reasons overtightening a fastener to where the induced tension plus the cyclic service load resulted in plastic deformation culminating in tensile failure the corrective measure would not be to increase the tensile strength of the fasteners used. They would not be saying to the stress engineer (which I am) you should have specified a higher grade fastener. I hope you will be able to retrieve the shank of the broken bolt as well for inspection, the failure mode will be plain to see to an experienced eye. I did also say "although why not (replace with a higher grade fastener) given the consequences of failure"

It looks like the oil filter housing that is on my engine but mine is beside cylinder 3.

Only a matter of time before I have to do mine, the setup looks similar to the Fabia, is that the case? I had not considered buying a tool to pull the bearing in/out in situ as I have a hydraulic press, from what I can see you have pretty much disconnected the whole hub anyway. Is there any advantage in using the puller or is using a press better? Is the bearing assembly different on the Octavia/Yeti meaning a different approach perhaps using the press? Finally what about replacing the bearing only and reusing the existing carrier and ABS ring (assuming its the same setup)? Sorry for so many questions but where I am now just ordering a tool from Ebay is not the easy cheap option it was when I still had a UK address. Also Ebay has locked me out and I cant get a text code because they have added a zero to my phone number like thousands of other sufferers, absolutely impossible to get into contact with them other than creating a new account, I've had the old one over 25 years but thats another story.

That has to be the most brief, concise, helpful and money saving response I have seen on Briskoda. Chapeau to you sir! It's info and help like that which makes this such an outstanding forum.

Find and repair the source of the oil leak before your cambelt is contaminated and fails, check the cam belt first thing as a priority. Then remove the alternator, remove the regulator/brush pack and clean off the oil I reckon is coating the commutator and scrape out the schmoo from between the segments. This might be able to be done with the alternator in situ but access is very limited, I've changed regulators in situ before. To recap the oil leak is most likely the urgent priority. That said its likely to have dripped right onto the cooling vents above the commutator, had an oil change been done just before the alternator failure? Editted, that looks like the oil filter just behind it, the oil has probably dripped when the old filter was removed, if you can see no other source of the leak and its localised to there then ignore the above.

Mmmm, I would reserve judgement till I had seen it. Yes the fuel rail pressure is very high bit being hydraulic and not pneumatic pressure it would drop to zero once the tiniest amount of fuel had leaked. Yes there will be a pump pushing through more fuel at a now lower pressure but the leak only has to be a couple of thou for all the fuel to escape, not enough for it to have taken the tubing beyond its elastic limit. It could be that the garage are using the same logic, whether misguidedly or to bump up the bill we can only speculate. A question when this job is done by VAG under warranty or recall do they replace the fuel rail? And regarding the fasteners shearing, they must be made of Chinesium or Cheese to shear from the system pressure, there is no need for higher tensile bolts (although why not given the consequences of failure), just ones that have been correctly heat treated and/or not overtorqued.

I have had the function and disabled in on a MK2 Estate and also a Yeti which with a vertical screen can't be classed as an Estate. I have had some strange things happen when waiting at traffic lights but can't recall the details, I think it switches the wipers from constant to intermittent, I'm sure they have stopped but also sometimes done one sweep when I thought they were off.

Leaving a 240vac system unearthed by not reconnecting a disconnected ground wire through being influenced by someone who takes unkindly to their "guess" being corrected is exactly that. Were the rest of your post and the others polite then I would consider your request. You had already gone on the offensive/defensive with sarcastic comments, I was duty bound to explain in case the OP, anyone else reading this in future or indeed yourself put themselves in danger, I used your own (non sarcastic) words to make the explanation and said that you had explained it well. I think we should leave this now, if you feel the need to have the last word then go ahead.

Yes indeed looking at it again thats what it says in so many words and the icon is an exact representation of the actuator. Speedreading catches me out once again! It will be a very slow drive to Spain if left like that!

That is your answer then IMO. To explain how the faults are related, the signal from the MAF sensor to the ECU must be within a certain range according to the conditions reported by all the other sensors or it will be considered implausible. Consider the engine running at a constant 3K rpm and with a fixed throttle opening, the airflow is expected to be X +/- 5% for example, when EGR is commanded this airflow should fall by for example 8% because the engine is now getting 8% of the intake charge from EGR gases (all these figures are made up and are probably way out), the ECU will expect to see the airflow reported from the MAF drop by 8%. If the EGR mechanism is blocked or a blanking plate is used then the airflow will not drop and the ECU will consider the unchanged value to be implausible, the error code is for the MAF but it could equally be an airleak elsewhere or in this case little or no EGR gases passing. The EGR mechanism should have a sensor showing the opening angle and that should be the first fault code if it is sticking as the measured angle would differ from the commanded, there are various bodges to overcome this and I suspect your car has had one or maybe that version of the EGR lacks the feedback. You do not need to replace the EGR, you could fit an Emulator/simulator as I have together with a blanking plate, what it does is to modify the output from the MAF when EGR is commanded to fool the ECU that the airflow through the MAF has dropped by the required amount. This is why I have an understanding of the subject, I wont fit anything claiming to do something without understanding the how and why. They cost about £99 from a Polish Ebay seller.

And I was genuinely trying to protect them from a potentially lethal electric shock in a fault condition by following advice from someone who was point scoring from the point their incorrect guess was corrected. Were we talking about 12vdc and not 240vac on a metal framed vehicle which may be standing on wet ground then I would have ignored your first sarcastic repost.

Are you 100% certain that nobody perhaps under previous ownership has mucked around trying to disable the EGR system, most likely with a blanking plate with a metered hole to pass some air to fool the ECU.

I believe you but never having driven a Golf could you explain in which way? I realise that it may well be down to perception and a Golf owner would disagree but I trust your judgement. The pal I bought mine from said it was the same platform as the Passat, he worked for Ricardo so I didn't doubt him, years later when I learnt it was a Golf in Skoda clothing and not a Passat I was really surprised because it was such a load lugger, it made me thonk thet the Golf must be really robust.

Usually on the engine block at the upper cylinder level, possibly on the cylinder head if its not a cast iron cylinder block.

I got all excited when I read that 6 goes to the air filter and was going to say you can continue to drive the car, but I had gone straight to the text not seen the other larger numbers on the diagram. Pipe 6 goes to a regulator valve to create the required vacuum level, a fractured pipe there means little or no vacuum

They should be able to spin the wheels and feel for vibration with a fingertip like a CT/MOT tester does (well the CT ones do anyway) the drag of the brake discs, driveshafts and drivetrain in the case of a 4x4 makes it difficult for me to do but then I am haunched over with the vehicle on axle stands and not under a ramp.