J.R.

They should make Roman numeral spaghetti like they do Alphabetti Spaghetti, they would not need so many dies!

Am I not allowed to signal left after an overtake if the car knows what nation it is in? It is quite sensible to signal when pulling back into the lane you have vacated to overtake, there will be at least one other driver to benefit from the warning, I do it whenever I can especially on motorways and autoroutes oing from lane 3 to lane 2. Drivers are supposed to indicate to show intention of changing course, direction or lane.

You need professional help.

I agree with everything else you say but have to challenge the above. Whilst all IC engines are at their most efficient when at normal operating temperature diesels are by far the most economical of all fuel types during the post start warm up cycle, once the compression ignition cycle is maintained, no more than a few seconds no enrichment of the mixture is needed, this is in stark contrast to petrol engines that need a much enriched air fuel ratio all the way through the warm up period. I know the glowplugs on modern diesels remain on for a while after start up but that is for emissions, the engine is running compression ignition within seconds. Modern post combustion emissions control equipment, EGR and DPF's are what have killed diesels from being the best for short journeys. My last 3 diesel vehicles were returning 60mpg after 1 mile if I drove through the village at 50kph rather than up the hill and onto the faster main road, no less MPG in winter conditions after a cold start, a petrol engine would only return its maximum economy after 4 miles minimum, further in winter.

Be aware there are Bosch wiper blades and there are Bosch Aerotwins, the latter are the business, the former probably some tat badged for them in some developing country intended to get them the same profit from someone whom they would otherwise have lost a sale , ie the Aerotwins were too expnsive so they will buy another cheaper brand, no hang on, here are some cheaper (not) Bosch ones, they will do!

I'm impressed. The OLO was for One Lady Owner but could equally have been Loving Owner for all I can recall. CWW was mainly used for MGB's and prospective enthusiast owners would have recognised it as Chrome Wire Wheels.

Incorrect, it is a predefined number of driving cycles (journeys) that have to be completed without a recurrence of the fault, an example would be a blown bulb, the owner may have replaced the bulb, in which case the stored fault code will be erased after X driving cycles. They certainly will not erase after a few hours.

Do you recall the days when cars were sold in the local paper small ads or in nationwide publications like Expand & Fart and you paid by the word? Loads of acronyms were used then that people today will have never heard of. Here are a few off the top of my head, try and guess what they are and please add others. HRW FSH CWW OLO FMDSH PAS EWF&R 5SB T&T VGC FUBAR 🤣

If you have a plastic clutch master cylinder that shares the brake fluid reservoir, if you have a concentric slave cylinder with a knurled thumbturn bleed valve you will not need a pressure bleeder or a second person but a second pair of eyes is always an advantage.

My experience is with a CR diesel Yeti, it may be different in the smaller engine bay of the Citigo and you do not mention what engine you have, but if the bleed nipple is under the battery it sounds like the same concentric slave cylinder set up. I had to make assumptions on the very limited information given, my advice could be completely wrong.

You can do it from the top easily by hand by feel only. However to become proficient you will likely need to remove the air filter etc the first time to see what you are doing and get the necessary familiarity of touch. You do not need a pressure bleeder, there is a void underneath the bleed nipple where any air from downstream gathers, you simply use a clear vertical bleed hose, open the bleed valve by hand and watch the air come up followed by a little fluid, when the bubbles stop (quite quickly) you close the valve, most times you will have only drawn a tiny bit of fluid and wont need to top up. Any air higher in the system (unlikely) will rise up through the master cylinder and into the reservoir, its a very simple single piston seal master cylinder and when the pedal is up any air can rise unrestricted right through the master cylinder. If you replace the master cylinder then a pressure bleeder will make the job quicker but gravity and patience will do the job equally well as will traditional 2 person manual bleeding, VAG say a pressure bleeder because its quick and does not require a 2nd person but only necessary for a master cylinder change done by one person against the clock.

Agreed, I would never have bought them myself but this car came with them, they may already have been several years old, I have driven for 3 years and done over 40K miles on them and they still clean both front & rear screens like new, even at that age they wipe better than any blades I have fitted to any car in the last 30 years even from brand new. I knew that they were going to be expensive to replace but I also knew it would be a waste of money to use anything but Bosch Aérotwins from now on, luckily I found an Ebay seller that sold the unique rubber profile by the meter for use as a refill, I can't believe that I have not yet needed to use it.

It was a frown of disbelief but turns out I was wrong, my apologies. I still can't see how it could be related to the temperature guage indicating low but if the replacement has cured that then we can add it to the growing list of oddities from these vehicles.

They may have changed slightly in the 21 years since your car was made Ken! Romanian Gypsy, are you trying to reset the odometer while driving? If so it will not allow you to do so, you have to be at a standstill.

It is not a relay switching the glowplugs but a pulse width modulation (PWM) integrated circuit, the voltage drop is monitored which is how the ECU can report a failed or out of limits failing glowplug. A quick and dirty way of ensuring the glowplugs are working is to use a voltmeter across the battery or the accessory socket and watch the voltage drop while the glowplug light is illuminated and the consequent rise after it goes out. I have a voltmeter in the centre console, I use it to check the battery state of charge by looking through the window when the car has not been used for several days, if it is getting low I also watch it while the glowplugs are heating, if it drops too low then if I have time I would abort the start and charge the battery for 30 minutes. It also reassures me that the glowplugs are working but any failure should generate a fault code as long as I regularly connect VCDS.

Heavy throttle 😲

Does the swear filter not like Mini now or did you write Minge?

Peristaltic movement of an oil leak 🥴 How does that work then?

Sorry for the delay, life got in the way! Leave it a couple of weeks and if the pedal still feels good then you have dodged a bullet. A few observations for information. Air bled from the bleed nipple above the slave cylinder (on the clutch bleed block) will not have entered from a faulty master cylinder, air bubbles will not sink. There is a void beneath the bleed nipple whose purpose is to trap any air entering the system from the concentric slave cylinder preventing it from rising up and through the master cylinder. Air can be drawn in from the O ring joint between the body of the concentric cylinder and the inlet pipe, its one item but made in two pieces in later vehicles, both plastic, engine vibration makes the bleed block shake back and forth wearing away at what should be a static joint, for some reason this air can enter without any fluid loss, I have witnessed this with my own eyes. If your pedal starts sinking and sticking again, bleeding once more will bring some temporary relief but the only real answer is to remove the gearbox and replace the cylinder. You could change the master cylinder, they can fail with similar symptoms but will not pass air further down the system, its a much easier and cheaper job so if a garage suggests it as a first attempt then you have very little to lose by trying it first, indeed if you subsequently have to replace the concentric slave cylinder you will have an all new system. You will have to budget for a replacement clutch and dual mass flywheel as it would be false economy to not replace them at the same time. Good luck, I lived with the problem for 6 months and at the end was bleeding the clutch by the side of the road several times on a 25 mile journey, after replacing the cylinder (I sourced a new old stock original aluminium one piece type for extra security) the problem had gone but my anxiety remained, for a full 6 months I was still anxious on pulling off an autoroute to the roundabout or toll booth as to whether I would still have a clutch to move off again or would I have to bleed it on the spot, I used to scan for points to pull off the road at each stop or junction. That anxiety has now gone but if one day the clutch pedal feels slightly stiffer or easier as it will with varying temperatures I become momentarily concerned.

Do not even think about refilling with fresh oil and hopeing for the best. The original diff oil if drained after 120000kms (as I did by mistake just like the goon who did your haldex service) will be as clean as a whistle and look like it was only poured in 10 minutes before, that is how well constructed and understressed these differentials are. Until some goon drains the wrong fluid and then tops up the Haldex fluid leaving the differential with just a few drips splashing around, then it will become black and charred within a few miles but still maybe saveable, touch would mine was and 2 years later aside from a little whine its still ok, if you drain out any metallic particles then its game over. Well they would (say that) wouldn't they! For Jobjob, that was a phrase immortalised during a 1960's sex scandal.

I shouldn't laugh at this but did 😳 Seems that dealers have moved on from being a pain in the ar5e!

Thats great thanks, I will respond in detail when I return later, I have to go out to work now.

It is not too low, 13.3 volts is sufficient, 13.0 volts will maintain battery charge against a moderate electrical load, higher voltages will recharge a depleted battery quicker, that is why you are seeing the initial 14 volts dropping back, it has indeed replaced the energy lost when starting, these vehicles have tremendously powerfull alternators, don't believe the old wives tales of needing a 20 minute drive, your charging voltage is the proof, once recharged the voltage settles at the level required to balance the electrical discharge, this will vary. If you do not believe me then measure the voltage from a battery charger on fast charge, slow charge and maintenance charge.

I can help you with this, I have a wealth of knowledge and hands on experience with this exact problem that I wish I did not as it took up so much of my time, but I do need coherent information in order to be able to help, I do not want to send you down the wrong route. Please explain exactly what work has been done, was the cylinder replaced and at what point do you consider that the fluid level dropped "so quickly" in your words, topping up does not imply that the level has dropped through a leak, it will go down as the brake pads wear, "topping up" can just be parlance for checking or would be a necessary thing after bleeding.

At the moment it is not obvious at all that there is a leak and the OP still has not properly described the circumstances when the fluid level has dropped. I am having to guess and read between the lines in the absence of coherent information but I suspect if you reverse what the mechanic is reported as having done "He told me that he just topped up the brake fluid and bled the system and everything was working as it should. He also said there was no obvious signs of a leak" into something more plausible ergo: "He replaced the cylinder then bled the system and topped up the brake fluid (the order in which the job would have been done) then there is no suggestion of a fluid leak (which he says), he will have replaced the fluid lost while bleeding. Maybe the OP is confused by the mechanics report, I am still confused as to why he says "I am still slightly nervous about this as I did not expect the brake fluid level to drop so quickly" Could it be that the second mechanic did not fit the cylinder that the OP purchased, is that what the OP was actually trying to say?