J.R.

Unless the colour coat is dipped or electrostatically applied it is impossible to paint all of the enclosed areas such that the primer cannot be seen from any angle.

But the echos of its rattling, growling and knocking will linger for centuries afterwards! I can still here mine , I'm amazed at how quiet and smooth the CR engine is but then so was my mechanical injection MK1 Octavia, ASV engine perhaps? it was a 110TDi.

do not use it if you are looking for DPF longevity, it is not a low SAPS oil. I think I disagree with that but am 800kms away from my VAG literature on DPF regeneration so cannot check to verify. I believe that EGR is suppressed during a regeneration in order to raise the exhaust gas temperature, I do agree that deletion will cause issues, I used a blanking plate on my PD engine and it went into limp mode each time, I had to drill a hole in the middle of the plate and keep enlarging it until enough gases passed for the MAF to give a plausible reading. On the CR engined Yeti I have fitted an EGR emulator which passes no gas but modifies the MAF sensor signal to the ECU to fool it into thinking there is less airflow during the time the ECU thinks it has commanded the EGR valve, it also does a similar thing with the throttle valve position sensor, it no longer restricts the intake to favorise EGR when commanded but the output from the position sensor tells the ECU that it has.

Re soldering, I worked for a company in the 80's that made access control equipment for mass transit stations, turnstiles, flap gates etc, it was all Jules Verne style electrics, relay logic boards, no PLC's or microprocessors, they used crimp wire ferrules for wire terminations into the screwed PCB connections (choccy blocks!) and the old boy who prepared the looms was set in his ways and insisted on dipping the stripped wire ends in the solder pot before crimping them, there were no end of failures through vibration, the wire core fracturing at the end of the solder line. So to repair say a door bellows loom breakage I would not solder the broken wires together, I would insert a new length of wire and make 2 joints away from the flex zone where the wiring is stable, generally speaking I find it easier to use a butt crimp joint than to solder, it depends on the access. I would not use a crimp either in the flex zone or anywhere where the wiring would endure cyclical movement.

I did my CBT in the 90's, my intention was to get a bike with paniers for rapid response service calls to my maintenance contract customers in London as it was taking me hours sitting in traffic jams otherwise. 2 things happened which changed my mind and I never did the part 2 or whatever it was to gain the bike licence. The first was I impatiently changed lanes in a traffic queue which would have gained me maybe a couple of car lengths only to lose them a minute later, I had checked my mirrors but clearly not well enough through my impatience, I vey nearly wiped out a motorcyclist doing exactly what I wanted to ride a bike for, my young ego considered myself to be the best driver in the world, if I could make a mistake like that then every other driver on the road could do the same to me. The 2nd thing which really shook me was my instructor who was the safest and most sensible biker I had ever known (hence why he was a trainer) was killed outright on a test ride from an open day of a local motorcycle dealer, the accident was not his fault, he was just in the wrong place at the wrong time, maybe going too fast who knows but he would not have been reckless.

Well done, I see you have made decent soldered and heatshrinked joints to the cable repair but a "chocolate block" connector in the photo as well, this may have been for your test bulb, which by the way was an inspired idea 👍,seeing how you repaired the loom fault you probably don't need me to tell you that the choccy block joint will need something similar done to avoid future problems. Did you find what had caused the high resistance in the loom? Mechanical damage, flexion? I recall someone proudly posting a photo of their repair to a drivers door bellows loom failure, they had used choccy blocks . My bodge of choice is red butt crimps, which dependant on the circumstances can be very good or otherwise, you do tend to get some odd results for them on Google searches though 😆

I would not use any initially, torque them up and if they start to come loose then my pessimism will have been validated, in which case get the proper bolts but also remove the coupling and check it and both the spider flanges for damage. If the bolts don't work loose then a medium strength Loctite won't do any harm and means you won't really need to check again but if the correct bolts are used in an undamaged coupling and drive flanges tightened to the correct torque threadlock would not be needed, but for all I know VAG may in fact use it. My concern is taking the drive torque on the threaded portion of the fastener, you are buying setscrews and not bolts, ARP bolts are intended for big end and main bearing caps that have the load in pure tension not in shear and the caps are located by dowels or hollow dowels, do you have an image of the genuine VAG fastener? Is it a bolt or a setscrew? If the former do not use the ARP ones.

That really made me laugh 🤣 I can see we understand each other 😆👍

Another rubber band pretend tyre. Seriously, is that a trick of the camera or is the tyre really that thin? I would not drive anywhere outside of a marble floored car showroom on tyres like that. How did your wife react to your wise advice? 🤣

Is what you percieve to be your problem that when you turn the ignition off the radio screen is still illuminated? If that is the case then it's not a problem per sé, I'm pretty sure mine does that and its very handy for making settings on the satnav etc or listening to the radio while you wait at a destination for someone or if you have arrived early for something. I think mine goes off when I remove the key, it's too wet here to o out and check. As long as it went off when I locked the car I would not be concerned, even if it remained on for 20 minutes shutting down when the rest of the canbus did but that might result in some anxiety. Does the Can network shut down after 10 or 20 minutes from locking the car or is the battery discharging overnight

If not for you mentioning the counterbores and matching spigots I would say 100% never use a setscrew on a torque drive joint and don't even use a bolt of the correct tensile strength and plain shank length unless it was a close tolerance "fitted" bolt intended for the application. From what I can see of the image of the fasteners you have bought they are setscrews, that the seller calls them bolts is concerning to say the least. Now I know there are some exceptions like the Sierra diff drive flange but I believe there they got away with it by using a much larger diameter and larger machined clamping faces and pre-loctited bolts, if the correct tightening torque is not respected the holes will oval. The principal is that you should never transmit a drive torque by the major diameter of a thread, it will quickly compress and the joint start slipping, it has to be a plain shank and also a close tolerance one going through a reamed not drilled close tolerance clearance hole, otherwise once again there will be significant radial slippage and the drive is only likely to be transmitted by one fastener only leading to ovality. The holes in your Guibo joint may already be damaged, putting an undersized setscrew in there may result in slippage and loss of the new bolts, its possible that it how your old ones became detached. I would buy the correct bolts from VAG, if they turn out to be setscrews then I have given you bad advice and I'm sorry, but better to be safe than sorry. I have removed mine to remove the gearbox for the clutch change and I would have remarked if they were setscrews but my memory is poor so I can't be sure.

What you describe would be no change in tracking adjustment. They will have done the adjustment on one track rod only, if they were bothered to go to both sides they would have done the job correctly.

There are more than 3 possibilities, numbers 2 and 3 are the most probable.

Nothing, but you didn't! Indeed, but again you didn't! Had I known this or you explained it then I would not have responded, your posting read like non Tesla owners were selfish parkers.

Well done, I hope you ordered the bolts from VAG rather than using generic ones, aside from the tensile strength they will be bolts and not setscrews and should also be close tolerance fitted bolts to transmit the torque. Having said that you may find the VAG ones are actually setscews (threaded the whole shank length) as they have included the counterbore locating elements into the design. I had a nagging feeling that the garage may have used the wrong fasteners which resulted in their escape, that usually happens where fitted bolts should be used but again it seems that VAG have foreseen this in the design. Chapeau to you for working out what was going on by feel alone, to answer your earlier question, yes there must be a spigot (as there is at the rear) to prevent the prop dropping and the vehicle pole vaulting if the joint fails or the bolts fall out, yours must have got very burred with the differential movement between the two parts, you did well to get it back together. I actually witnessed a Toyoto minibus (carrying twice as many passengers as it was designed for) pole vault on a road in South Africa, I had been warned not to travel in these taxis but as a backpacker thats what I loved doing, most of them were death traps, I noticed that pretty much every small village had a repair shop/garage that would tackle everything and most had specialist propshaft repair and manufacture shops, at the time I was building motorcycle engined 7's and there was only one single propshaft manufacturer left in the UK (Bailey Morris) quite a comparison.

Cut-n-shut it!

That is a discriminatory posting!

What does it have to do with me other than for general interest?

Bravo Sugar, or truthfull if you have only ever owned automatics.

It could be my memory is incorrect but I'm fairly certain that I replaced all the discs on the Yeti.

You can adjust it via the hinges, the preferred way or do the quick and dirty trolley jack and block of wood but the A pillar is strong enough to raise the weight of the car by the rear of the door without moving, you will need to jump up and down on the cill to give it a helping hand. I advise you to ignore the halfwit with the 35mm cube of clean old clean sponge which together with GT85 and photos of lubricants gets trotted whenever an opportunity presents, I think it might be some sort of a challenge, in any case it is not going to raise your dropped door.

I can confirm from bitter experience that it does so when there is a contamination of water in the master cylinder, whether the tiny amount absorbed through hygroscopy comes out of solution and sinks I can't say, I doubt it though. The Galaxy concerned was another of my write off rebuilds, a loom fire, I had wrongly deduced that the water ingress to the master cylinder reservoir was due to the Fire Brigade using a high pressure hose under the bonnet, the Ford recall revealed that water was draining from the scuttle directly onto the reservoir cap which had a very sloppy fit between the moving parts needed to allow removal of the cap without unplugging the sensor lead.

Toot, as someone with probably the most experience what do you prefer, that an automatic transmission should creep or not and why please?

I'm amazed that anybody would desire surely the least desirable and in the right conditions dangerous quirks of a traditional automatic gearbox. From what I have read it makes manouevring slowly easier, is it really that hard to modulate the throttle or is it another skill that has been lost like keeping a constant speed or distance from the car in front, switching between dipped and main beam, using windscreen wipers when needed because the gadgets now take care of it? If the car jerks while you are manoeuvring slowly or you cannot control the speed can you not use both pedals, after all that is what you do insinctively in a manual vehicle modulatig both the throttle and clutch?

Steady on old chap, that's a very aggressive and confrontational way of correcting someone, are you feeling allright?