J.R.

Thats actually a real misuse of the verb To Heal, I must have self healing skin because if it gets squished it returns to its original form. What you have is a good sacrificial barrier to protect the paint whilst not hiding it so if the aesthetics are important to you it's ideal. I have a ribbed rubber Chinese one glued on with contact adhesive, my neighbours expensive self adhesive (rubber) one has not surprisingly started to lift all around the edge.

🤣 🤣 🤣 The person who thought up that gem writes the ads for anti-ageing creams etc.

The MOT test would have been carried out with the suspension taking the weight of the vehicle, they could not find it.

Thanks for that, it explains my confusion, I was thinking to myself you have got something wrong as the PD starts so well in 1/4 turn, it would not have even generated a speed signal. Good observation regarding the CTS which is a known common failure.

Labrinth, that was the word which evaded me!

I seem to recall some stupid system on one of the TDi engines that would prevent the injectors from operating unless the cranking RPM exceeded a certain threshold, I call it stupid because the PD engine will start on a lazy 1/4 of a turn at minus 40°c with all glowplugs failed, but it wont start if it has that stupid system unless it can whip over beyond the threshold. Some tuning companies had found a way to disable it. Hopefully someone can advise if its relevant to your engine, I thing it was the PD engine of about your year.

I have not seen a new battery with a vent plug for about 15 years, they now use a sort of matrix gallery construction, bad description but you would have to chisel one apart to see what I mean!

Does it run at all at higher temperatures or will it not run at all since the filter replacement? If its the latter then you need to purge the air out of the system using VCDS or similar, it might also be possible by turning the ignition on and off multiple times but I'm not sure if that can be done on the CR engine. Your original problem of the hard cut after 2 seconds running at below minus 10° I believe was the immobiliser and I reckon it is as a result of a fractured soldered joint on between the connector and the PCB on the instrument panel. Good luck!

It won't have got rusty and weakened as a result of pulling apart, probably the opposite. If it is rusty and weakened then dont even think about welding it unless you or the person that does it is competent to fabricate something to pick up on good steel and put back the lost strength. If it is a fatigue fracture without corrosion then welding might, only might be an option but the above still applies. And once again were it to fail and cause an accident injuring a third party the evidence of who is responsable is plain to see. I would weld it if I was happy I could do a good job but only because getting any second hand parts here in France is either impossible or would cost far more than a new crossmember, if I were in the UK then a good second had crossmember would be my choice

Of course its not the right one, the clue is in you having to buy a connector with untermibated wires to bodge into your loom, it does not even look remotely like the correct unit for the part number they have quoted and probably will not fit in the security cage under the wheelarch, I can pretty much guarantee that it will not communicate with the body control module (or is it the instrument binnacle?) and hence wont go off when commanded. If you buy a genuine one then it should work, I would probably still take a chance on a cheap one if it at least has the right casing and connector I have had some genuine VAG stuff through Ali-Express that was made in China for the domestic manufacturing plants, but I would try it ASAP and claim a refund if it didn't work. At the VAG price I would just go without an alarm and remove it from the installation list to stop fault codes.

I dont know what language Fuze and Fuzebox are in 😆 For Abdul who I notice is now writing Fuze your spelling was correct the first time with Fuse 👍

In what way badly designed? You should have a torch for any interventions required when it is dark.

Pull it.

Agreed, I bought an Ali-Express one and the Canbus Gateway could never communicate with it, a chocolate teapot! My Yeti is 7 years old now and I'm expecting problems soon.

The hydraulic power steering system on the MK1 Octavia is not going to "randomly and violently pull to the left and right" The clue is in the report that the steering wheel is no longer in the straight ahead position when driving in a straight (aside from the right & left deviations) line. You should not drive the vehicle until the cause has been identified and repaired, were the worse to happen what you have posted in the public domain would change a terrible accident into reckless and deliberate endangerment.

Inner wishbone bush movement or possibly a loose pivot bolt if you have recently worked on the vehicle. I was disturbed by a phone call when I was tightening the suspension bolts after putting the vehicle weight back on the suspension and did not nip up one of the bolts, I suffered the same torque steer as you did under heavy acceleration or braking, i pulled out to overtake a car put my foot down and veered towards the RH ditch, I quickly aborted and returned home for a change of underpants. It wont be a power steering problem. You may be able to see any excess movement by trying to roll each front wheel to and forth with the handbrake applied.

I see now that DarrenG has the K-rap projector headlights like I did (mine were rubbish on dipped beam as well, worse in fact), my solution albeit another one to set off the legality Police was to fit an HID conversion kit, the visibility with that was superb but you do need to adjust the height very carefully and if you dont have a self levelling system then aim them a little lower than you would ideally to avoid dazzling oncoming motorists when on undulating roads (if only the new car manufacturers would do the same!), the visibility is still far better than with the Halogen bulbs.

He is talking about fitting 100 watt main beam bulbs, if you do not dip your headlights when you should then you would dazzle oncoming motorists with 55 watt bulbs and be flashed, if the headlights are dipped then there will be no difference for them even with the combined 100/65 watt bulbs, I speak from experience. As for suggesting someone gives up driving because they cannot see (well enough) try driving a MK2 Octavia with halogen projector headlights and see if you tell yourself to stop driving or say to yourself "there must be something wrong here, I cant see Jack ****!" I am regularly blinded by vehicles with LED Matrix headlights which are probably correctly adjusted, it has got so bad that I am now very reluctant to drive at night, also I have to dip the rear view mirror every journey as soon as a newer vehicle pulls up behind, in the past it was very rare and only if they had not dipped their headlights or they were badly adjusted, the difference came as a big shock because the MK2 Octavia I had (with the crap headlights!) for a few years before the Yeti had an auto dipping rear view mirror, I noticed it occasionally when first driving the Yeti but it has got far more common since where more people have bought new vehicles.

The flap motor has a position sensor built in. The fault code does not say the sensor is faulty, only that it is open circuit or shorted to ground (usual crap descriptions as the control unit would know if it were one or the other) but I agree replacing the sensor and then running an adaptation is likely to resolve the issue, but first try some Flappaerobics which may fix it temporarily or for good.

What were the fault codes?

🤣🤣🤣🤣 I hadn't appreciated that the bonnet release cable turns 90° from the release lever to then go 50cm upwards then turn 90° again to pass through the bulkhead under the windscreen.

It's the best video around but it also poor in that he inititially says to "push the connector plug then push the lever in" which is incorrect, when he releases it his finger is covering the detent lever and you can't realy see what he is doing, it's a bit clearer the 2nd time round where he correctly says "push the connector in and then pull back on the tab". The mantra to remember is push then pull.

Well done, I can understand the problems you had, I find VCDS incredibly badly written and counter-intuitive in many areas, also using wrong units, positive instead of negative etc etc, I don't know if its Rosstech or VAG to blame but it makes it hard to use and you end up doubting and second guessing everything.

What exactly were you trying to "code into the car" On the assumption that you disconnected the battery to do the wiring then all the error warnings that you reported are completely normal and to be expected, they would all disappear after driving a short distance. Is your "dedicated wiring kit" one that connects to the existing wiring loom connector including the twisted pair of Canbus wires or is it a low impedance bypass relay?

No.