J.R.

Link gives a header but blank page beneath.

Thanks for that, every day is a learning day. But apart from Skoda, Renault, Peugeot, Citroen and Ford what did the Romans ever do for us? 😆

Thanks for that, I had a suspicion I was taking tosh, thats the system that my MK1 Octavia had, the 2006 MK2 had evolved to canbus, OP's Superb is 2005. Nice and easy to faultfind then! On my MK1 the audible click from the relay became, well inaudible! Back then parts were unavailable here in France except from main stealers, I pulled it apart and tweaked the contacts and it made a satisfying louder click.

That has not been the case for a couple of decades since the introduction of Canbus multiplexed wiring systems, I concur that the problem is likely to be found in the stalk switch or the wiring between it and the Body/Comfort Control Module.

The translation is definitely wrong in calling it a Kit Car, perhaps TFH can change the title?

Machining cannot create casting air bubbles that the HIP process has previously expelled. There must be a reason but it wont be that, most likely to avoid removal of the post HIP hardened and tempered layer.

Drop links or top mount bearings, or indeed both!

I can assure you that is not a wise business strategy! That is!👍 By adjusting the transfer pricing between the businesses you can channel the profits through those with the least tax exposure. On reflection that is probably what you meant above 👍

Your seat belt has reached the end of its short life!

Agreed, and with all such scams be it cars, furniture, solar panels whatever you like its the same banks and financial institutions seeking a notional product to front their loans. It's little wonder that none of these companise give a Four X about whether their product actually functions as long as the sale is made, any money spent after that trying and failing to satisfy customers is money lost in their eyes.

I think the OP would know by now if he had a squirrel in the glovebox!

I agree, it was very badly written. Should have used "crank"

You should ask the question here: https://www.youth4work.com/Talent/Fortune-Teller/Forum

I understand the advantage of roller rockers and have used them myself on race engines, what I don't understand is the need for rockers on a DOHC engine, on a SOHC I can see why.

That cannot happen on a VAG engine from the last 15 years using the clutchless modulating valve system, when AC is turned off there is still a minimum circulation of refrigerant.

What is the rationale for employing the rockers, one cam to operate 2 valves in a 4 valve per cylinder head? Lower engine height?

Very well spotted, 2 rollers it would appear to be, that is exactly how they would align in a magnetic field. So rockers on an OHC engine, is it a SOHC?

The metal shavings sound ominous, are they hardened? Oil pump drive shaft?

Are needle rollers used in the CAYC engine? If so where? 3 things made me doubt what it initially looks like. I was not aware of needle roller bearings being used inside an IC engine but await the wisdom of others. The groove in the centre seems out of place for a needle roller, again I'm open to learning otherwise. One side looks to have a slightly larger diameter than the other, my single eye is not good and enlarging on the computer doesn't help so others might confirm if they are differing diameters, if it was then it could be an alignment pin with interference fit one side and clearance fit the other. I don't know the engine so can only guess using my experience of other engines, I have yet to see roller bearings used on a car crankshaft let alone needle rollers on conrod little ends, I could see them being used on a rocker shaft but all modern vehicles are OHC.

Good point about the wear marker amongst all the other good observations.

More likely to be heavy and short (like the socket or a marble) than long and light like a pencil to roll backwards and forwards, there are few large flat smooth areas. Not that it helps you at all in your search but it might trigger your memory for something that has gone walkabout. I am going to remove my glovebox now, prompted by reading this, I lost my wallet on the autoroute earlier this year, there is no gap anywhere around the glovebox big enough for it to have fallen through but I have to check to stop the lingering suspicions.

By your own admission you have only needed to charge your car battery once in 45 years! On that basis I have 4 decades experience of Bungy Jumping but I dont proffer my knowledge (none) or evangelical beliefs of the subject to others.

LHD, is that your car or another youtube video that has the same sound? The noise sounds familiar, I think I may have experienced it with either an aircon pump failure, partial failure of the pulley shear plate or possibly the alternator one way clutch. With that in mind I would remove the auxiliary drive belt and go for a test drive to rule out all of the above. Another thought would be a corroded brake disc backplate fractured around the mounting bolts, again I had a similar noise but I could only hear it at lower speeds with the windows open, this is very common on your vehicle so should be looked at as well.

Well done, the experience will serve you well in the future

The tyre gunks never worked for me, tyre removal roraty wire brushing the bead area then brushing on the black gloop before refitting the tyre sometimes gave a temporary improvement but never a cure. The only cure fitting tubes which is a no-no with tubeless tyres that have internal ridges or shotblasting and powder coating wheel refurbishment. All 4 alloyw on the MK1 Octavia lost pressure fairly fast, the MK2 had a couple going that way, my Yeti has just started with one wheel and its a slippery slope.