J.R.

Cumalatively there are millions of miles of testing, companies like Ricardo have whole sections of employees that do nothing but drive pre-production vehicles on 3 shifts of 8 hours a day every day. Also new drivetrains transplanted into existing models. But it can never be the same conditions as commuter cars driven infrequently, the more you condense the test program (more cars running more hours and miles) the further away it gets from what the majority of production vehicles will experience.

There was a time that Skoda would get the new generation powertrains before the other VAG premium marques in case faults revealed themselves in service that had not shown up during the millions of miles of testing, I don't think that has been the case for a couple of decades.

Same part numbers, same components fitted from the same OE suppliers on all vehicles across all the marques using the common build platforms. Deliveries will be made to the individual plants across the countries but the parts will be identical and will have come off the same machinery in the same batches. It is possible that a domestic supplier to domestic assembly plants in emerging markets like China could produce sub standard parts bearing the same part number but that will have been a breakdown or failure in the VAG quality control and not a corporate decision. The same could happen in Europe, Sach clutches spring to mind but that was not a decision by VAG to put the crap ones into Skoda vehicles, the problem was not known and when the defects revealed themselves they affected all the vehicles of all marques that they were fitted to.

Thanks. Having read it I think the info contained within regarding glowplug actuation during DPF regeneration is just plain incorrect. The engine has to be at operating temperature with the oil and water above a certain threshold as well as RPM etc, well beyond the minute or so after a cold start where glowplug actuation might be maintained. The exhaust temp must indeed be above 600°c for active regeneration, post combustion fuel injection takes care of that as does stopping EGR, using glowplugs to preheat a mixture that is already being 100% combusted by the diesel cycle is not going to raise the temperature of the exhaust gases. Were there to be an additional injector just upstream of the DPF for the post combustion injection (would make more sense and avoid oil dilution) then I could perhaps see the need for a glowplug also but with the EGT well above the flashpoint of diesel probably not. Perhaps some manufacturers do use such a system, it's what I would do for a city car that would spend a lot of time at low revs and low power, such a system could regenerate at tickover. I have never been comfortable with using the cylinder injectors for post combustion injection to increase the exhaust gas temperature.

I would happily swap sausage fingers for one eye, I cant write on the phone to be able to hate it! I can manage to do texts on my old school Nokia with 9 keys for the alphabet and predictive text, not as easy as it once was but still possible.

Tell me the menu and I will look again, mine is a later vehicle so presumably it should be there, it is a base model in terms of options. I hope this does not offend Kodiaqsportsline.

How would I know? Out of stock, on back order, waiting for a new batch to be made, they had too much other work, they did not like your face........................ It could be anything for all I know, what I do know is that it will be absolutely nothing to do with JIT stock management which they could never use unless they knew when, where and what exact screens would be breaking in the future. I also know that I have failed in my efforts to explain to you what JIT inventory control is which is fine by me.

If you use and appreciate the storage space in the Roomster then the Yeti will be a huge dissapointment to you. I doubt that it will be any more economical but I know little of your current engine and the new one, others will be better placed to advise. I love my Yeti especially the driving position and that it drives like a taut saloon car and not an MPV but after the roomy Octavia estates I deplore the lack of storage space, it has the same width (all Skodas seem to be within mms on that dimension) but really lacks in height and especially depth, I have to run without the rear seats most of the time. If the Roomster Scout was actually a 4x4 and had the later CR engine I would be sorely tempted to change from the Yeti, what puts me off is the lower driving position and that it will probably feel and drive more like a Fabia than an Octavia, by that I mean a smaller car.

Has the drop in economy happened since the remap or the timing belt change? Or the TPF whatever that may be replacement? If so that is where you should start. At 80k miles the throttle valve will likely be completely clagged up with soot from the EGR port, cleaning this will result in much increased economy if it was clagged.

🤣🤣🤣🤣 Why not blame Brexit while you are at it!

Try using "brakes" instead of "breaks" in your search terms 💡 I find searching google with Briskoda followed by your search terms gives better results than the forum search function, that is true for most forums.

What function do they carry out? I am not doubting you as I know you work with these vehicles but I have read everything that I could find on the subject (to keep up to date) including the VAG self study guides, I recall the measures to raise EGT above 600°c, EGR stopped, post combustion injection etc but not any glowplug intervention and I can't hypothesise how it would help. Notwithstanding the above if a glowplug fault code prevents DPF regens the OP should indeed consider the fault an urgent one.

You may be OK with the job he has done, I discovered the arm was flopping loose on my Yeti when I removed the gearbox to change the clutch, the gear selection had been sloppy but had not yet failed, all I did was inspect the splines after cleaning and decide it was worth a try replacing with the fastener correctly tightened. I have done 30K miles since without any problem, from memory its a tapered spline so tightening and adding a clamping washer will probably be OK. If in the future you feel the gear selection getting sloppy then that is the time to replace the part.

I sincerely apologise for having offended you by speaking in general Skoda terms in a Kodiaq section. I apologise also for advising someone with a problem of the existence of the central non functioning position of the manette and the crazy situation of the right mirror losing its position while you adjust the left, it has never been written in the manuals, perhaps they have put that right with the Kodiaq, it has caught many people out not just myself and most, like myself were/are unaware of it. I apologise also for favouring vehicles that you disdain and consider unworthy.

Recycled diddlydidos judging by the cracking between the treads that is so commonplace now ! Same composition as has been used on my last few pairs of hiking boots.

I did RTFM, you may have the setting but my last 3 vehicles have not had it, I can change it with VCDS. RTFM'ing for a decade on the MK1 Octavia would not have made the slightest difference, nor the MK2 nor the Yeti. It was incredibly frustrating to eventually find out what was happening and that I had not been going mad.

My mistake, you will be well aware of the switch then. It would be worth giving it the good news though just in case a contact is stuck or oxidised, not likely if its used each day. It could be the beginning of the fractured wires in the door bellows syndrome.

Maybe not stopped working, I get the impression that its the first time in 3 years that the OP has tried adjusting the mirrors hence my posting. I could have misunderstood though.

Are you aware that the joystick knob also has 3 rotary positions and that the central one is to stop the mirrors being adjusted by mistake? Central position = no adjustment. L = adjust left mirror. R = adjust right mirror. Except the Simply (not!) Clever Skoda people decided that the default programming of the body control module should be that the left mirror setting adjusts both mirrors As a driver (RHD) you normally set your drivers mirror first, then if you do the passengers one you will change the settings that you have just set on the drivers one, you dont see it moving as you are looking at the passenger one. It only took me a decade to work out why my drivers mirror needed such frequent readjustment 😳

If the old struts are only just holding their own and the ball sockets are worn then removing the first clip could result in the strut jumping off and the tailgate clouting you on the head. When I had my first detached retina I was put in a twin room in the French hospital, as there was another Anglais in with the same injury they thought it a good idea to put us together (it wasn't!), he told me he his detachment was caused by him standing up after leaning into the rear of his car and banging his head on the tailgate, knowing the impact needed to cause such an injury in a person with normal intra-ocular pressure and that his tailgate had not dropped I struggled to understand how it could have come about. Then his wife visited, he pretended to be asleep and it all became very clear 😆

The green on the badges, publicity material, the front of the building in the photo etc............. Within VAG it will doubtless be known as Skoda Green and will almost certainly be a standard RAL colour.

Your money, your choice. Personally I dont care what the outside of a bucket looks like cosmetically, it's whether it is likely to leak that concerns me, that sump will not.

That describes mine, when I saw that the new one had exactly the same engineered fissure and not a crack as I had originally thought I compared it to the original and decided that rust aside it was perhaps a little easier to move the outer ring but probably because it was mounted on a shaft & not tested on the bench & vice. So the new coupling will remain a spare unless the transmission whine gets worse.

There are no fractures visible there, it is dry and oiltight, oil would leak from the tiniest capilliary fissure. There are no deep canyons/cracks to expand. I have read and re-read that, if it is not a typo then all are advising that they should repair something on an oil pan that they claim to have never seen before and do an oil change. If the above really is correct then they are taking you for a pigeon and exploiting your anxiety, the only way they could be repairing the surface marking would be to go over it with a linisher, £361 for an oil change and a quick polish up with an air tool, nice work if you can get it 🙄 Ignore it and them, drive your car and enjoy it!

Whilst I would not describe the marking as flash which would be found around the moulding joint line of a pressure die casting they are definitely not cracks now that we can see them in close up, they stand up in relief from the surface, shrinkage wrinkles more like. Tthere will be a technical name for them but they are not cracks and the pan is not "badly cracked" so the comment "it's normal" is not BS.