J.R.

Hot alternator does not sound right, the other thing that rang a warning bell was you saying that the electrical system had drawn 50 amps with the accessories all switched on, that sounds too high to me but not if it included using the electric power steering.

And also the horn and any steering wheel controls if fitted. I don't think it will have caused the EML light and I dont think the 2 faults are related.

Clockspring.

Its not the same. Different colour and no rusting. Yet! 😆

That year and engine is the sweet spot I reckon, seems a shame to upgrade such a reliable hign mileage vehicle but if its rusting away then you have to undertake considerable work anyway so why not!

OK I understand now, its a dual switch, perhaps the ones on my Octavias were also, I had assumed they were seperate switches. I have just looked in the car and the cut out looks big enough for a dual switch 👍 From the diagram I should be looking for a connector with 4 pins hopefully populated with 8 wires, is that correct?

Only a very poor or inexperienced driver looks down at the gearlever and JettaMC22 did not say thats what they did. I frequently touch the gearlever to make sure I am actually in 6th gear, the ratios are so close its easy to remain in 5th and not realise the need to change up, sometimes the car feels a little too reactive to the throttle to be in 6th but it actually is. I should add that following Malaria I have zero short term memory and having sight in only one eye I would never take it off the road ahead to look at the gear display on the dashboard, I probably look like an dopey old fart to a passenger tapping the gearlever but its the safest way.

Je t'aime!!!! 😍 That said I am used to the brightness now, I'm not sure that my RH lower dash panel has the cut out for the switch or the connector, I worked intimately with those parts when removing and refitting the dash after the airbag deployments, I would have noticed a blanking plate and connector and searched for a dimmer straight away, its where I had expected a dimmer to be fitted.

From the little that I can see from the photograph: It is a different set up to the diagram and does not have the AC pump. (first diagram, joobs reply overlapped mine) The poly V's on the belt are in contact with the pulley. The roller shown is an idler pulley, it may be a sprung tensioner pulley or if it is fixed then belt adjustment would be effected by rotating the alternator on the pivot bolt shown. The latter i am unsure of from a small photo and not knowing the engine set up.

Circumference with a fabric tape should get you to an accurate enough comparison but you should be measuring the part the engages in the knuckle if it is stepped, a vernier caliper is what is really needed as you would then be able to measure the new ones without removing them. Suffice to say that if they dropped into the hole they are not the correct size. Someone was selling alloy adaptor sleeves on ebay for a certain strut/knuckle combination but I think they were 4 or 5mm thick, I was considering them for a big brake conversion on my car but retaining the smaller struts because I had only just replaced them, maybe the strut sizes were 50mm and 55mm.

The steering knuckles fitted to your vehicle which are usually to match the brake disc diameter and calipers used.

I only flush an engine if he oil has jellified, I drain it and put 1/4 back and then fill with parafin to the lower dipstick mark, then I run it at a fast idle until at operating temperature and for 5 minutes more. If you do this take extra precautions against scolding your forearms when draining, it will shoot out much further than sump oil.

I have yet to find how to do it on the Yeti let alone forget how, it appears to be a fixed lighting level from the LED backlit cluster. On all previous vehicles it was a rotary adjuster beside the identical one for headlight aim, tucked up under the RH dash panel beside the steering column, on the Yeti it only has the headlight aim control and its impossible to see and also very hard to find by feel and only having vision from one eye I am very very good at working by feel and they could not have made that control harder to see, find and use if they had tried.

It should be tight and you should need to spread the joint in order to slide them in, they certainly should not drop in and usually need some encouragement with a hide mallet, it sounds like you have the wrong diameter damper tubes, there are 2 sizes, I cant recall if they are 48 and 50mm or 50 and 55mm.

If you google some of the photographs you will be very shocked, I was with mine and there are many far far worse. I would not trust any main dealer to do the check and even less to clean the valve, most garages would refuse on the basis that it may break while doing so (unlikely unless they are even more careless than usual) but the real reason is why get their hands dirty when they can make more money by insisting they fit a shiny clean new one. Once again if you want a job doing well, or even doing at all its best to DIY.

I have a coloscopy every 5 years (I think) the preparation starts the night before with drinking an industrial strength laxative, its always a difficult night and just when you think there cannot be any more to come there is. I now sleep on a sheet of polythene and when the VSL (medical taxi) comes to collect me I lay a bin liner on the seat before getting in. So far it hasn't been needed but the drivers are always appreciative, they say nobody else does that but I am surprised that they dont do it themselves, although on reflection they may not know whether I am having a procedure or a check up.

I disagree with your choice. Your choice should be "do I swallow the BS they (may) have given me to try and make more money or do I inspect the discs and pads and decide for myself if they need doing or are they are trying it on?" I bet you they reported that they were 75% worn.

Hands up anyone who still drives wearing driving gloves and who keeps them in the glovebox! Ditto anyone who puts parcels on the parcel shelf. Or anyone that owns and wears a Car Coat to protect themselves from the elements when driving their car. To qualify as a car coat the hip pocket must be large enough to retrieve an ice scraper with a (drivers) gloved hand while sitting to scrape the ice from the inside of the screen that has built up while driving. Sorry for the thread drift but needed to get this off my chest!

Have you ever inspected it or are you taking the lack of problems to indicate that all is well? You really should not wait until the throttle valve becomes obstructed and the engine throws a fault code and gose into limp mode or the engine rattling like a pig on shutdown, you risk the plastic gears in the valve stripping or a garage simply making you pay for a new one rather than cleaning the old. At 80K you definitely should have a look, a lot of EGR gases will have passed through the intake tract, while you are looking you can adapt the spigot to turn it into the airstream to reduce further carbon build up.

The thread title "YETI 140 MPG" sounds pretty good to me!!!! You should definitely have done the throttle body clean before the remap, if its clagged not only will you get more MPG but a lot more power, the latter will certainly negate the former at least initially before the novelty wears off and you start driving for economy again.

Sound only. What sort of person pays attention to warning lights and sounds anyway!

Cast Iron cannot be case hardened, it already has an excess of free graphite.

I found the company by searching my E_mails airbagteam.com Highly highly recommended and I don't give that accolade lightly. You probably already understand but for the benefit of anyone else reading, after an accident with an airbag deployment officially the airbag control module has to be replaced, it will no longer function, however companies like the above can remove the crash data and reinitialise the module which makes it as good as new.

There are a couple of companies that will remove the crash data for £30 or so with a 24 hour turnaround, I used one for my Yeti after replacing all the deployed airbags and seatbelt pretensioner reels, it was an incredibly quick turnaround, I cant recall their name though but I think you will find them on Ebay. In your shoes I would send them your original airbag control module as the second hand one that you have may well have different coding.

I am with you 100% on that. I have successfully changed lower and upper main bearing shells in situ but would not even think about putting a different shell onto that crank, that one has barely run in. I am surprised at the lack of radius between the bolt head and shank and very shocked that VAG would use a setscrew (threaded along the whole shank length) OK it does not have the same loading as a big end cap bolt but its very bad practice. Can anyone confirm that the offending item is the correct stock VAG main bearing bolt and someone hasn't messed around with the engine before.