J.R.

Broken piece of plastic writes vehicle off........................ Looks like the seller has the inset part of the bumper.

Nobody but yourself can know if it is an accurate figure, only you can find out your average MPG by doing brim to brim fill up and mileage calculations, all 3 of my Skodas have been 9-11% optimistic, it can be corrected in VCDS but after doing so I always feel hard done by I decided that ignorance is bliss!

Was there any improvement in NVH? (noise, vibration and harshness)

I still have not fitted the coupling, when I looked closely at the new one the wavy geometric line which I had thought was a crack was present on the new coupling, the old may have less resilience but it isn't cracked or parting company, my friend who owns the CT centre did the restest after I had fixed the exhaust and ARB drop links agreed with me so the old one remains. There is a little transmission noise but it has not got any worse despite the huge mileage I have racked up recently towing very overloaded removal trailers. I will change it when I have the car jacked up for other work, it will be interesting to see if it gets a new lease of life.

Which further illustrates the great advantage of JIT to the biggest fish in the pond, the car manufacturers, when the pandemic came they simply shut down their lines and laid off the workers, the suppliers were left with the problem of inventory coming out of their ears. In normal times the suppliers have the lead time of the build as notice of what will be required several weeks ahead and much closer to the time the exact date, time and workstation to deliver the components to. When a massive hailstorm happens like the one in Sidney April 1999 where the plane I landed on was written off, the glass manufacturers are faced with the problem of ramping up production for a short period but that cannot have any impact on the JIT deliveries to the carmakers which is their bread and butter.

Why the groan Jake? If I wanted peoples views on something I would not post a photograph that could not be read. I can view your dropbox image.

There are a few parameters in VCDS with various mistranslated names which are for transmission noise reduction at various RPM ranges, all of which had values programmed in by the factory on my vehicle, I think they reduce the Haldex engagement or even decouple it at resonant frequencies, there are different ones for petrol and diesel engined variants. I have also seen log scans showing the Haldex engagement reduced or removed at certain RPM ranges. I conclude that resonance was a problem in service not designed out by the NVH engineers and the parameters were introduced as a very crude sticking plaster because the Guibo coupling was not performing as intended.

Photo cant be viewed, please dont assume that everyone has a Google account or is happy to give their e-mail address and password to see a photograph.

No that cannot be the reason, the OP's Yeti rolled over three times and only depreciated 13% 🤣

Fuses blow or they don't, they are not a resettable circuit breaker. Maybe you mean a fractured fuse that will pass a small current but not the full load? that would give the opposite effect to the volt drop the OP is experiencing which crashes the modules and causes the engine to stall. I concur with looking for an alternator or battery fault, my suggestion based on my first reading of the symptoms is an insulation breakdown in the power steering actuator windings that shorts momentarily in a certain position under certain conditions and drops the voltage enough to crash the modules but not long enough to blow the fuse. It is possible that the fault may have manifested before and someone has fitted a higher rated fuse. In general a fuse will take longer to blow than a module will to hiccup from a low supply voltage.

No but just in time inventory is!!!!!!! A car window is indeed a JIT stock item, when its fitted new in the vehicle manufacturing plant, it and all the other components are delivered by the suppliers to the assembly line just in time, the supplier will know in advance the expected volumes for the year updated regularly as new car sales happen, they produce in volume production runs and hold any buffer stock, deliveries are made daily to the plant with the exact number of the correct individual screens for that days production timed to be there just in time to be placed on the vehicle, they are delivered directly to the workstation, the car manufacturer holds no stock, has no capital tied up in stock nor needs space to store it and move it around to the assembly stations. It could not be further from a random event like a windscreen breaking on a vehicle, one of thousands of different types of screen that could break that day, or a weather event like a hailstorm smashing every front & rear windscreen of vehicles within the area. No replacement windscreen company could ever run a JIT system, you picked the wrong phrase.

PU semi foaming woodwork adhesive is my go-to bodging tool of choice. Sikaflex if you can get it on both sides of the joint would stick like **** to a blanket, I used to use it for mounting Sierra front wings rather than have the paint scorching from welding. Plastic welding using an instant heat solder pistol and a nylon tywrap as a filler rod gives very good results as does the tywrap stithching referred to earlier, I prefer stainless lockwire as it is more discreet and can then be hidden by the plastic welding or Sikaflex if visible.

You have used the wrong example for a JIT inventory system. Unless that is you were able to tell Autoglass in advance of when you were going to break your window and would require the replacement to be on hand.

My thoughts are that its too late for you to start querying the bill and what parts they are going to fit after the job has been completed. What was the parts, labour, fluid and consumables breakdown?

And the only difference between the so called illegal car that cannot tow and one that can? A number stamp 🤣

Indeed, I was actually referring to you being led down the path to becoming Panto Villain number 2. Having had exactly the same introduction I no longer engage but do keep an eye on the postings, I only scan through them as they are often so long, rambling and containing the same old incorrect mantras and cut n pastes from Google. You can witness the verbosity and rambling increase with the affluence of incohol, I'm not surprised at the lack of recall of the things that have slipped out and the outrage on the occasions where it is appropriate to bring them up.

Join the club! It's all terribly familiar..............

Sounds like you have nailed it, well done! Regarding the after EGR temp sensor, I take all the VAG/VCDS (not sure who is to blame) units with a pinch of salt, they seem to flip between guage and absolute pressure on different parameters without specifying which, same with temperature & volume units etc, it shows 276°C but I would bet that they are actually using the Kelvin scale. Positive and negative signs also seem to be random those they use for torsion value (cam timing) are definitely backwards. So -270.6°c is probably +270.6°K or 3.6°C, which for this time of year is out even for a cold engine but given that the sensor is intended to be reading temps in the 500°c range, 873° Kelvin being out by 20°K equates to 2 percent or so and wont make a scrap of difference, it may need recalibrating, I have forgotten the phrase they use for that in regards to the DPF differential pressure sensor, offset I think.

When I read your reply Graham I feared that for your trouble you would become labelled as a small minded bully piling on. Agreed about modern vehicles, minimum 90 ampere alternator (charging at tickover as alternators always have) larger capacity batteries, geared starters and engine management systems and multiple crank & cam positioning sensors that mean the engine will always start in less than one revolution, I would be surprised if it even took 2 minutes to replenish the drain from around one second of cranking, I hav had voltmeters in the last 2 vehicles (aftermarket head units can cause the Canbus to remain active) and the charging voltage drops away within 2 minutes. There is no good reason to remove a battery from the vehicle in the event that it does require charging and several good reasons not to do so as you point out. If someone repeatedly posts rubbish in an authorative manner then others will occasionally call them out for it, that several people have done so should indicate something other than them being small minded bullies and cowards.

You have posted that it had been at least 9 years since you had changed a wheel. You have posted that you stopped working on your own vehicles in your 30's. You posted"I can think of only once in my 45 years of owning and driving cars that I've needed to recharge a battery using a battery charger on a car that I've owned" Now you say different, that is your priveledge. Given the content of your postings I know which I believe. I don't doubt that you would be keen to remove the batteries of your friends and neighbours cars to take them away for a long low slow charge and that you would ask them for a Kleenex of a dipstick wipe.

How does a battery know that it is being charged on or off of a car and how does it react differently? For someone who has only charged a vehicle battery once in 45 years you have very strong opinionated views on the subject but practically zero experience. Ditto for not having removed a wheel in 9 years, probably 10 now as that was posted a long time ago. Ditto for being an old person (like many of us) and not having worked on your own cars since your 30's. Ditto for your opinionated views on VCDS and other diagnostic systems when you have never owned or used one and have relied upon your neighbour or someone on here. And you say Graham is taking a narrow view! At least his is one of actual physical experience and not Googling.

Il déconnait!

Just lucky!

Why has bottled LPG not risen in price if it comes from petroleum? The 11kg propane bottles heating my current abode (caravan) in winter I thought were really expensive at €29.99 per pop but I have just worked out that it costs 19.4cts per kwh and electricity (far cheaper in France due to the government intervention) is 18.5cts so taking into account the standing charge the propane is cheaper. Something has to be wrong when propane is cheaper per kwh than electricity and its far cheaper for a business to use a generator for electricity even with the high fuel prices than to use mains electricity.

My Octy 2 had the problem, I solved it by taking the motor apart and cleaning/greasing the bearing bushes and freeing off the carbon brushes. Within 9 months it was playing up again and it finally went into full on Karen mode while I was delivering it to its purchaser so I knocked €30 off the price. When (not if!) the Yeti one goes I will simply replace it, they are cheap enough.