J.R.

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A Mytyvac will be usefull for confirming operation and seeing any hoses that show signs of deforming inwards although they wont collapse until very hot, those I removed were clearly deteriorated but difficult to see in situ. To be ahead of the game I bought a Chinese Mytyvac some years ago but have not had cause to use it yet.

The hose is standard reinforced vacuum line hose. I never had to work on or around the actuator on my MK2 Octavia, it was a 90hp TDi Alhambra that was the one that did what yours did, access was tight and from underneath, yours will be cramped, if it wasn't then there would be anough seperation of between the hoses and the exhaust/turbo. You will be able to feel the hose along its length from above though and usually can manually operate the actuator from above albeit with a long rod. Hose replacment will no doubt be from above and below, it was 20 years ago now!

I fitted new struts and spent ages trying to get the parts to click together, I even took them off the strut to try on the bench without success, I concluded that they were never meant to clip together and the plastic collet is to centralise the gaiter when the weight is on the car, to stop it rubbing the paint on the strut body and perhaps squeaking. Maybe someone with a newer vehicle will confirm that theirs are indeed clipped together but I could find no retaining mechanism on mine just like shown in the photo.

What does IRC stand for?

It may burn off soot as a passive regen but it will not trigger an active regen, these only happen when the soot loading exceeds the threshold and the regen parameters are met, rpm, oil temp, fuel level etc. Stop wasting your time with a generic code reader, get someone on here to do a VCDS scan or find a garage with a Snap On or similar multi-marque dealer level tester to find the code of what is actually going wrong.

If it happens repeatedly during the warm up phase then a Mr Muscle enema is in order, snake oil fuel treatments will not release the sticking vanes & Mr Sheen is not going to do you any favours. If it happens on long inclines under heavy load especially in higher temperatures then it is degradation of the vacuum hose leading to the variable vane actuator, cycling the ignition will bring a reprieve but if you are still on the incline the boost will fall off again in shorter and shorter intervals. The hotter it gets the quicker the hose will collapse, the fault also implicates a tiny bleed off or leak of vacuum at the actuator which would not be a problem in normal running with the hose not collapsed. Very cheap to repair but the diagnosis is beyond the competence of most garages, I have bought many a PX vehicle being punted on by the trade with this exact fault which they and the previous owners garage could not resolve.

Tell me about it, I have been working 7/7 on my new property and sleeping in a sweatbox of a caravan, the outside temperature has still been at 30° at midnight some days and by then 2 hours after finishing work I am lucky even with the aid of an aircon unit to drop the inside of the van to 5° above ambient and that was with the exhaust vent through the floor. During the day the inside temp has regularly been 50° despite the thermal blinds I worked out that it was just a waste of time, better as soon as the outside temp started dropping to open all the windows and put the roof fan on Concorde setting and work outside or in the cellar for another couple of hours but then you return to thousands (no exaggeration) of moths and mosquitos. It's been wet and (relatively) cold this last week last night I awoke shivering (15° outside) had to search through the lockers for the quilt to put back on the bed.

Nothing, do not rely on a garage to use their grey matter or logic to diagnose. If VCDS shows the resting high side pressure as correct for the ambient temperature and modulating valve engaged at 100% but the high side pressure does not rise and evaporator temperature does not fall then it will either be the N280 modulating valve, a broken shear plate or stripped splines on the hub. Or the auxiliary drive belt could be missing but you would have battery problems in that case.

Were it mine and of course I would then be repairing it not giving it to a garage I would not replace the entire sill, I would cut progressively further forward until no more rust then replace all the rusted metal including the membrane, if the vehicle warranted it I would do a flush joint using my Joddler and Avdel pins. The reason for not doing any more than necessary is any welding will destroy the factory seam sealing and internal cavity protection causing accelerated further rusting, also its a lot less finishing and paintwork to do. The factory spot welding will be stronger than any repair plug or seam welding.

A Clairvoyant.

That is the automatic self destruct Lombard version in the photograph. Go for it, I'm sure they are as much in need of a good laugh as anyone! Sorry to make fun but I just cant stop laughing after looking at the photo to find out what the heck a Lombard was!

Does the aircon blow cold air!, would be the starting point to rule out any faults there.

Pray tell what system that would be?

Compressor drive pulley shear plate has let go, one of the now loose drive straps has not yet been thrown radially outwards (will need running at high RPM) so is unbalanced hence the vibration, they normally make a terrible screeching & graunching noise as well but yours might not be touching the inner hub.

Thanks for the correction Nige. Silvertabby, bypassing the sensor would be like removing your genitalia, you might retain some functions with a degree of difficulty but would deffo be on a Limited Operating Strategy!

There is indeed but its not likely to be far out unless the factory was at the top of Mount Everest and didn't have a calibrated test chamber, they wander in service anyway, I frequently redo the adaptation and the offset value is always different probably dependant on the atmospheric pressure that day. I should really do it at sea level and when the atmospheric pressure is bang on 1000 millibars.

Everything, sills, inner sills, wings etc were all cut off with a club hammer and bolster chisel, the one that is still in my toolbox today and I used yesterday & will today for removing render while replacing windows. No angle grinders, nibblers or air shears then, the knuckle of my left index finger used to get a beating all the time while swinging the hammer in the gloom under a jacked up car with my legs sticking out in the road.

In the late 70's and early 80's I worked most evenings and all weekends welding (mainly) sills & inner sills on Minis, 1100's Escorts etc etc, it was the only way I could continue my studys and appernticeship as my wages only just met the rent I had to pay. £25 for a sill including the part and underseal was the going rate then, double bubble if the inner sill needed doing, it was before the days of restoration so unless it was a collector if the inner membrane, the part that gives the most structural strength, was rotted it was simply left like that, the sill & inner sill would cover it! For Minis & 1100's they made sills that extended 3", 6" or 9" onto the rotted floorpan, they covered a multitude of sins and then even the inner sill was not replaced I was earning £16 gross, my first investment was a £75 trolley jack from Halfords (£62.50 with discount from the company motor club) I'm still using it today, then a BOC Portapak for £278 including 10 year cylinder rental contract, gas was very expensive even then, IIRC started at £11 then went up and up, these costs were quickly recouped. I watched an interview with Gordon Murray and he described doing exactly the same thing as me at the same age on the same vehicles and his price structure was the same!

I agree with everything else in your posting other than tyres of the past were never known or thought of as summer tyres, they were simply tyres, they may well have been reformulated and renamed as summer tyres, I'm not even sure that it's the manufacturers using that nomenclature but the on-line sellers.

Do you really believe that? The UK climate was not seen as unsuitable for "summer" tyres until the marketting people dreamt up the phrase to promote the sales of M&S (mud & snow) tyres henceforth known as "Winter tyres", now I know that some parts of the UK are much colder and have more snow than the South East where I was born but aside from Farmers and 4x4 offroaders nobody I knew changed to M&S or snow tyres during winter unless they were going to the Alpes to work the ski season. I have been driving 45 years and only heard of winter tyres since moving to France where they are mandatory to drive on certain roads in certain departments during the winter months. In those 45 years I have never until recently seen circumferential cracking between the treads, UV degraded sidewalls yes but the treads never really see daylight, the change has happened since the rubber compounds started being made from recycled dildos. I would propose that there is no such thing as a summer tyre, aside from winter tyres and all season tyres all others are common or garden tyres exactly as they have been for a century until the tyre companies started manipulating the hard of thinking by coining the phrase "summer tyres", they will be having a wet dream to see how enthusiastically their work is being done for them on the internet.

Why oh why could she not have walked into a lamp post while staring into her phone or flirting with the camera, if he had caught one of the shorter bollards in the ghoulies that would have been something, better still the truck reversing on the pavement, why did he not get a move on and wipe out both of them? Can't pull out a plug because you only have one hand and the other is clutching a phonewith the elbow tucked in ay your side so you can't use your upper body or core muscles? Put it down? Of course not she started Googling while he used the particle of residual brain lodged in his skull to think of unlocking the car. Drive from Bristol to London (I think) to spend 4 hours working (not) in a coffee shop, maybe the coffee shop owners will get so frustrated with these influencers and do what the truck driver failed. Can you imagine having the pair of them in your establishment for 4 hours taking selfies and recording each others annoying antics and whinging about having to pay for a second coffee or be thrown out?

It is not residual power, Mr Newton were he still alive would have told you that such a notion is BS. Usually its the bulb filament monitoring circuit, not so sure on a boot light so more likely the tiny collector leakage current on the switching transistor. You can use a high impedance shunt resistor to get rid of the glow. The same current would have been passing through the incandescent bulb but nowhere near enough to create visible light.

Tell them to go ahead and change the Haldex oil as per their recommendations and see what happens. With any luck they will bill you for work they could never have done and you will have them by the balls for recompense to stop you going to the Trading Standards Office and the Motor Industry Ombudsman. At least you have no risk of them draining the wrong oil and wrecking the rear differential that you dont have!

I have that problem on the Yeti, looking at it I am convinced that the mirror could be placed much higher on the screen and still have long range rear vision even for shorter drivers. I wonder if mine has been refitted incorrectly after a sreen replacement? I can see clear glass between the dark shaded area and the top of the mirror, I am not tall (5'8") but have the seat high. Does anyone have fitment dimensions for the Superb and other vehicles like the Yeti?