J.R.

Looking down at the strut top from under the bonnet not looking up from underneath, you will be looking at the inner part of the top mount indicated in blue. You could try turning the steering while weight in on that strut while looking or filming upwards, the top of the spring should rotate freely with the strut and not wind up then jerk repeatedly. Maybe its the angle of the photo but I cannot actually see the top bearing between the spring and the top mount and I have one in my hand for comparison. Could it/they be missing? Have the springs, struts or top mounts been replaced in the past? It is possible that the Karoq has a different set up to the common parts used on all the other models so may not have a seperate bearing.

Did you not post this exact same question yesterday using a different identity and were given the same response?

I for one have not disputed your knowledge of the law nor have needed any explanation of it and I think that goes for all the other contributors, I commented on the morality of the course of action you recommend the OP follows given the circumstances.

Skoda dealer parts counter or TPS.

Do the fixings of your towbar resemble those in the first or 3rd picture in the listing? That is to say does it have plates that slide into the chassis rails and which are bolted laterally through very large holes (picture 3) or does it perhaps bolt onto the crash bar fixings (picture 1)? My towbar gets a real lot of abuse and I have found the chassis rail fixing method on the Yeti and my 2 previous Octavias would become loose due to the clearance around the fixing bolts, the only way to mitigate it was to overtighten the fixings to death dishing the washers so that they deformed into the void between the bolt diameter and the clearance hole.

Its the warning that an incoming missile has been detected.

Clearly with yourself that is the case but I hope what I expressed earlier is true for the majority of the site contributors, thankfully it does seem to be the case with the OP despite your exhortations.

They are not intended to. They would be far more usefull to me if there was also one in the centre of the tread.

Temperature readings and indications 100% normal and to be expected. Regarding the air mass parameters, yet again its the slapdash way that VCDS has been written, so many units are wrongly expressed, inappropriate or just plain wrong, trying to find the oil ash mass for my DPF is a good example, its shown as a volume, by chance once when scrolling through the thousands of unused parameters at the end of the list I actually found the one for oil ash mass and it had the value, it should have been with the main grouping of the DPF parameters. If you dont have a fault code for MAS or MAP improbable value then you dont have a problem.

Knocking is usually the top bearing seized, my recently fitted one has just failed but there would normally need to be steering rotation at the same time, now mine has got worse it is knocking with suspension movement without steering rotation, - but it will have been pre-loaded by previous steering movement and when the some weight is removed from the strut the bearing jumps. If left like that for a very long time the rubber to metal bonded top mount will fail from the flexing making its own knocking, perhaps yours is at that stage. The easy way to check for bearing failure is to have the engine running for the power steering, get someone to turn the wheel from lock to lock while you look down at the (hopefully) good strut, the strut will rotate smoothly, on the other side with (I propose) the bad bearing you will see the rubber distort, then jump round, this will be repeated in a series of jerks which you can feel and if you jack up the body a bit on that side to unload the strut you will probably hear the noise.

The fact that you heard and felt a click tells me that the movement is correct for that type of cap retention mechanism, its probably an anti-overtightening mechanism like the tamperproof lids on pill jars. With the old style you tightened against an increasing resistance until you could tighten no more but it was hard to judge, the weak wristed may have left the cap insecure, the ham fisted might damage the threads or prevent anyone weaker from subsequently removing it.

It is engaging but jumps out under power, it means the synchro collar that locks the 3rd gear to the mainshaft after the baulk ring (or rings if its a 6 speed box) has done its stuff has the teeth burred over. Given your comment about running out of travel and that it sometimes engages properly you may be lucky & find it is a detent problem but it is probably a bent or fractured selector fork.

The regen will be triggered by whichever of the parameters reaches the 22.5g (probably) threshold, if your calculated figure drops then your vehicle has not had the emissions fix which is good news, the bad news is that your actual measured readings are going up faster than the calculated ones, on my car it would regen at 22.5 calculated but the measured was only ever 3g. so it sounds to me like your DPF is pretty clogged with oil ash unless there is a problem with the differential pressure sensor or its adaptation, I think you said you have already done that, there are at least 2 different contributors both raising multiple threads clutching at straws hoping to be told that their DPF's are not actually clogged.

In this instance the OP negotiated an £800 reduction on the price after having used VCDS to check the DPF readings and the back pressure, all the indications were the DPF was blocked which has indeed proved to be the case. The OP was no doubt hoping to get lucky and resolve the problem by a sensor change or DPF cleaning, the latter may still reward him. Under those circumstances despite the law being on his side and your exhortations in my opinion it would be morally wrong to now expect the garage to replace the DPF at their cost. To the OP's credit he has not shown any indication of going down that route. To answer your question regarding the TV or whatever, actually yes I do in fact, most purchases are on line and at the least I would have to pay the cost or return transport, also I live in France where customer service is an oxymoron, when something fails I can usually repair it and reinforce the weak part very quickly usually at no cost, I would much prefer that to driving an 80km round trip to be given the run around, told it has to go back to the manufacturers and then never see the product or my money again. Or send it back to the seller at my cost for them to say they did not recieve it. For the same reason I would never buy a new car or from a dealer except on a trade sale sold as seen basis if the price was right.

Whereas the rest of us are from moral backgrounds.

That is a passive regeneration, anywhere between 350°c and 500°c, active regeneration raises the exhaust temperature to 600°c. At 50% soot loading the regen temp rises to 650°c. Unless you have problems then unplug the bloomin thing, let the emissions control systems take care of themselves and keep your eyes on the road!

Part number is the loom connector, Google could have told you that. The part inserted into it is either a bung to prevent corrosion or shorting of the terminals or more likely what Pete has suggested. If you look at the end of it you can see that it was pushed into a round hole in sheet metal, move the cable around in an arc leaving some slack for strain relief and you will find its home, a hole of the corresponding diameter, I would say either on the front crash bar or the panelwork beside the radiator.

I would not use the supplied U bolts & use stainless Mikalor clamps instead, they remain circular and spread the load over a much larger area so do not distort the pipe creating leaks, they are dirt cheap to buy. I recently replaced the sleeve joint to the rear pipe on my Yeti, the clamps rust away, bought a new assembly and also 2 Mikalor clamps in case it didn't fit, in hindsight I did not need the new joint which will in time rust, the inner sleeves of the old joint are stainless, you can simply knock off the rusted remains of the old clamp and use mikalors in their place.

The good thing about the Yeti Outdoor with its Tonka toy ride height is that I can see without jacking up or even bending down the condition of all 4 springs, dampers and bump stops, I can even see the paint coding on the springs. I cant actually see the part that has failed though, one of the cheapo strut mount bearing plates that I only fitted a few months ago but there is no doubt that it has failed though, the noise and you can see the jerking motion if looking down at the central nut when turning the wheel.

If it shows things like doors/bonnet/boot open, trajectory lines for a reversing camera, if it has speed sensitive volume etc then it is decoding the vehicles canbus signals. The world used to turn around and things functioned before apps, & they still do without them.

Whole differential or just the Haldex pump? I cant see the multiplate clutch ever needing replacing even after several million miles, there is so little rotational difference between the plate packs under torque transfer conditions.

Those are they! My new ones look as manky as those after only 2 years, I had to think hard to be sure I had in fact changed them and not dreamed it.

I'm suffering emotional pain at the realisation that those whom I scorned are now holding the folding and have the last laugh!

There is only one rear axle ratio and one identical transfer box (angle drive) ratio, that way the same components can be used across the whole family of VAG vehicles regardless of what the FWD diff ratio is.

They are foam rubber convoluted sleeves that should sit at the top of the piston rod under the plastic cover and resemble a Michelin man, usually they have degraded dropping down bringing the dust cover with them exposing the piston rod to the elements. Very cheap to buy, about €6 each and dead easy to fit, 20 minutes per side for a half decent mechanic.