J.R.

I tried I tried it and it caused a massive pressure loss in the engine and turbocharging pressure and caused loss of engine timing 😆 I know why you suggested me, I'm the only one stupid enough to open the filler cap with the engine running, and do you know what, you are right!!!!!! back in a minute!

Do what you were intending to do when you negotiated the £800 reduction.

Well it seems like you have certainly resolved that issue!!!!

Perfectly reasonable, £800 should buy you a new DPF. You said that it goes like stink when not regenning, you could try siphoning the tank down to less than 1/4 full which should stop the regens, however if the calculated or measured soot load goes above 55% the warning light will come on, if it reaches 75% it will go into limited operating strategy and you will have to force a regen using VCDS. I suspect that you will find that it wont go like stink for very long, doubtfull whether you would get the 150 miles.

My thoughts exactly when I read the last posting, I'm aghast that someone would want to repeat the experience 2 more times, I can barely afford to put diesel in and use my vehicle. Last week I mistakenly thought that the French governments subsidy of 18cts per litre was ending at the end of May, I was down to the low fuel light so had another 80 miles before hitting the reserve capacity, before spending close to €100 I checked & found the subsidy ends at the end of June, I did however check the prices at out two filling stations to see which one to go to, they varied by 10cts per litre. I have only done about 30 miles since and decided to fill up today, both the filling stations have put their prices up 12cts per litre, plain profiteering. I drove 10 miles to another station that was 10cts cheaper which just about covered the cost of the fuel consumed, I felt guilty about doing 20 miles on a point of principal but 2600 miles? 😲 You must really like driving to put yourself through that.

That is a contradiction in terms, to prevent gases leaking or venting to atmosphere storage vessels, microbiology laboratories etc are maintained under a partial vacuum. You spoke of a "pressurised vacuum" so you seem to have covered all the bases!!! That said the fuel tank may have a slight positive pressure if the engine is shut down and the fuel cap is removed quickly afterwards, that is because unscrewing it closes the valve to the expansion bottle of the evaporative recovery system so that it can not fill with fuel if you overfill or do not put the pump nozzle all the way in, closing off that valve means any pressure in the tank will be released to atmosphere.

The noise from the filler flap will be the locking mechanism, probably obstructed by something and not able to complete its cycle. I don't have on on the Yeti, my MKII Octavia had a solenoid, yours sounds like it is a motor.

No idea. Why are you doing all this and not making the selling garage shoulder their responsabilities? The more you do or have done to it the more ammunition they have for refuting that they sold an unfit for the purpose vehicle.

"Again"? Are we recidivistes or being unfairly accused? It is the nature of forums to go off topic, sorry if it has offended you but there really is no need for your sarcasm, you could simply have carried on with the thread. Its good to see someone investing serious effort and money into a vehicle worth preserving for its rarety and character and not because of its value.

Do you mean to say that the rear indicator bulb lights up when you apply the brake when the indicators were not in operation? If so you have a bad earth and I speculate you may also have a non functioning rear screen washer. The earth terminal is behind the LH side luggage compartment trim, right under the connector in the washer pump tubing.

To reach the "indicated" 90° The CR engines with the sliding sleeve water pump get heat through the heater in cold winter conditions 3 times faster than the PD engines.

Your DPF is blocked.

It could just be the needle sweep needs calibrating using VCDS. VCDS will also tell you what the real temperature is. Otherwise you will have to use an IR temp gun on the radiator hoses.

I believe that the convention is to use the terms "absolute" and "guage pressure", it is in Engineering anyway.

Its blocked. I ask again, what is the differentiel pressure at idle?

I worked on the pre-production prototype of the MX5 that was shown or due to be shown at (I believe) the Paris motor show. It was only really a mule to show the styling and concept, the mechanics were a hodge podge of stuff copied from other vehicles for expediency, I remember they had an RX7, a Scimitar SS1 (I think) and one other vehicle stripped out to copy various parts & mechanisms, they were bought new from the dealers anonymously with cash and never registered. Then the prototype MX5 had a hard folding tonneau cover behind the rear seats to hide the ragtop just like the Triumph Stag, it had 2 moulded humps in it behind driver & passenger heads like the racing Jaguars, cant recall what Jag series but I'm sure you know which one I mean. I also worked on the Metro 6R4 that was homologated, it had been run in a rally series the year before on 13" wheels (I think) and pretty much standard bodywork with just subtly flared arches, it was a real wolf in sheeps clothing and to me much better looking than the Group B one on steroids that we designed, the change was caused by the tyre manufacturer (cant recalll who) only committing to making a limited range of compounds for the following season hence the change to much bigger and wider wheels and the bodywork & styling changes to accomodate them. Sorry for not recaling details, it was a long time ago, 1985 or 6 I reckon. Superb money, the highest contract rates at the time and the most hours available but surprisingly the work was very boring and uninspiring. I went from there to military vehicle conversions which I enjoyed a lot more.

I reset my oil ash volume or whatever its called today to zero and that's where it has stubbornly remained, I'm sure that I have done over 10K kms or miles since, I suspected that it only increased in those units as it seemed to match gram per 10K kms, was always a round figure and would go up 1 unit per 10K.

Soot is usually a different parameter to oil mass or ash but they keep changing the names of the parameters even within the same version of VCDS not to mention the measuring units be they volume or mass or mass measured in volume units etc etc, kms expressed in metres etc, it's a wonder that anyone can make any sense of it. Then there are the parameters expressed and units used in the phone app which despite sounding like it is something from VAG I bet that it isn't, I am very wary of what it claims to show given the limited parameters that are measured but thats only as a cynical observer and not a user, certainly VCDS is pi55 poor.

Its clogged! You could try an adaption channel that resets the differential pressure sensor to atmospheric pressure and in doing so changes the DPF offset, it's normally only something that would be done with a new sensor but worth a try. What does it show the pressure at with the engine not running? It should be close to zero milllibars.

I still have the all stainless steel one (including the pivot hand rivets) that I made as an apprentice, it is always carried in the car and has got me out of trouble many times to isolate one wheel when a brake cylinder has failed usually when collecting a new acquisition. In hindsight I should never have stamped my name on it just in case one day the worse happens!

I rebuilt mine several times but never overcame the problem of the auto-adjuster not working, it was not clear which way round the seals went and I think someone had been there before me and failed. Eventually I bought a pair of new Chinese calipers for next to nothing from Maxspeedingrods (google them) who sell on ebay and also direct, they worked perfectly. I am very obstinate and made many attempts to repair the calipers with seal kits. But as MicMac says, if its just a seized piston then usually its just elbow grease required.

If you look at the example VIN code PDF that the Ebay seller gives (in multiple languages) you will see that it doesn't show suspension or shock absorber codes, unless your vision is better than mine and I missed them. Also codes to tell you that something is not fitted are not helpfull, take up space and distract the eye.

Clogged solid, diff pressure through the roof 25g calculated soot load 3km after a regen. When I tested mine the other day the calculated soot load was 15g, measured was 3g, tickover diff pressure was low (cant recall but was in single figures) rising to 35Hpa at 3.5K rpm.

Did you have a connection to them or the Worthing/Shoreham area? Ricardo perhaps?

It's a daft fix to a problem that does not exist. The tank is pressurised, if it had cracked it would be leaking, if it were cracked and leaking then silicone on the outside would be as much use as a chocolate teapot. As has been said you are pprobably seeing/feeling a mould line.