J.R.

I can tell you from bitter experience that you do not want to find out. Never drive with the seats forward and unrestrained. Being a shortar5e my varioflex seats will actually remain upright when the vehicle is static, one time I was distracted when raising them before going to collect a load, pulling away from a standstill one dropped making a noise and sudder like Wile E Coyote had dropped a tonne weight from a helicopter on the car. I was amazed that nothing was damaged.

You do not need any of those, you tighten the track rod a few degress into one rod end and slacken the other by the same amount then check on a drive if the wheel is now central, if not repeat until you get there. Doing this will not alter the tracking setting that the garage has done, lasers are not needed for tracking, there is still nothing that can beat an old school optical set up, laser or optical they are only as good as the person using them and the care they take to protect and calibrate them.

In the case of my vehicle it is how they released it, exact same engine with 2 levels of (programmed) tune for either 108hp or 140hp, done almost certainly for taxation bands, in the case of my country all the tax loading is up front at the point of first registration. My "Stage 2" remap has given supposedly 189hp on another vehicle featured on their promotional videos, the factory 170hp variant uses a different turbo, mine feels like 170, not sure about 189 but in any case its perfect for my needs and is so smooth I suspect it is the factory 170hp map perhaps with a little tweaking. What has made a positive difference to the fuel economy and driveability was the recent removal of the emissions fix.

I may be corrected, I have not had need to remove the doors but when like you I saw the fastener and looked closely that was my conclusion.

One of the strut top bearings that you have fitted might have failed immediately, this happened to my vehicle only a few months after fitting new ones, the failure may have been right away & the noise followed, quiet at first but now there is no doubting what it is, in my case helped by knowing what the noise was before & that it was resolved, albeit temporarily, by replacing the bearing. I will probably replace mine tomorrow & will then see what the failure mode has been.

"Insist" that someone should do something? Why not do it yourself?

Its not knurled its a male splined head fastener and it's function is to be unscrewed to allow removal of the door, they are lift off hinges.

Whilst it's good to keep the grey matter turning and essential (for me) to keep on top of understanding these developments to avoid having my money spent by a garage who won't have kept on top playing parts bingo, the complexity of my current engine let alone those that follow, hybrids etc, is way too far removed from the simplicity I enjoyed when I first switched to diesel power with a 98 90hp Alhambra followed by a 2001 110hp Octavia. That simplicity meant such reliability in the first 20 years that I learned absolutely zero about diesel engines , boy have I had to play catch up going from EU3 to EU4 and EU5, yes the CR is a smooth engine compared to the PD but the MK1 Octavia was smoother and gave equal if not better fuel economy.

If you have an aftermarket bypass trailer relay it will work with LED bulbs but it is unlikely the audible warning for the indicators will function, probably not a great loss, I struggle to hear mine if the rear is loaded.

If you cannot find the hole for the connector start looking for evidence of accident damage repair, I have just recalled that when I repaired my written of Yeti the pattern part crash beam that I fitted did not have the hole (it might even have been a tab) for the sensor, body shops are not known for their diligence in properly reassembling a vehicle & would leave the sensor dangling rather than drill a hole as I did.

Understood and filed in the memory bank!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks for the warning re pressures. Regarding the coding if injector leakage or performance and the engine adapting to the wear of injectors over time, having thought about it (you spurred me on) I dont believe it can tell from the lambda sensors etc which individual injector may need more or less time, all it can do is to change the parameter for all of them, from your experience I dont think it does this (for good reason) as with all your excess fuel it would have reduced the fuelling to all of them, or the individual one it it really can (I think not), this was not the case with your car. I reckon they should be changed as a set (probably the VAG and bosch recommendation) and when that is done the individual figures are used to trim the duration to the individual injectors, that would be why you have to tell VCDS what cylinder each individual injector is fitted to. So I reckon swapping the position of injectors is a no-no, if you fit a new one is it worth coding it? If the others are still behaving exactly to the original coded parameters then probably yes, I would like you fit it and see how it behaved before deciding if coding would be a worthwhile risk. It's been very usefull for someone else to have tackled this problem rather than putting it in a garage, it gives me the opportunity to think it through, something that usually only happens when my car is failing and then there are other pressures at play, better to be prepared! Thanks again, I hope I don't have to put your knowledge to use but I'm sure others will.

I'm struggling to visualise what it is you are trying to describe, can you explain it in other terms? Aha, maybe I have had a lighbulb moment , do you mean remove the injector to be tested and turn it 180° away from the cylinder?

Well done you and thanks for the great write up, I'm sure it will help others in the future. It looks like your hunch was correct, at the time I thought you might be rushing in and inflicting damage due to the stuck injector that may have turned out to be fruitless, I'm pleased yout instincts were correct. One question. With the benefit of hindsight what if anything could you have done differently that might have avoided some of the difficulties you encountered or told you definitively where the problem lay? Another question, could there ever be any benefit in re-entering the injector serial numbers and allowing the ECU to recalibrate or does it only work in conjunction with new calibrated injectors?

I knew that many if not most protruded into the crankcase but had thought that they did not go down all the way to the oil level and that the dipstick protruded, however that was based on the engines which I regularly used to rebuild, X/flows etc which date back 5 decades! If the tube covers the whole length of the dipstick then the false high reading is easier to understand especially if it is a close fit.

"However after wiping off the oil then dipping again, the level is where I would expect it to be." The level has to be either one or the other and it will be the latter.

So you believe that magically, within 10 seconds after putting the dipstick back in the level drops by 20mm?

Therefore the level has not gone up (measurably), you are getting a false reading by not wiping the dipstick before checking the level.

The Vario seat mechanisms on my Yeti will not fold unless the seat is in the rearmost position

Can you explain that one to me please?

According to your own words the level does not go up overnight but you do initially get a false higher reading: "However, on my 1.4 16v BBZ, if I pull the dipstick out after it has been left overnight, the level has crept maybe 2.0cm above the max mark viewing it as it is initially pulled out. However after wiping off the oil then dipping again, the level is where I would expect it to be." Do you really mean 2cm or 2mm? As Sepulcrhrave has stated it is normal for the level to go up slightly as the oil drains down, perhaps this dripping oil is coating the dipstick and stocking to the hatched area (no idea how though) and giving you the false reading. Maybe someone told me early on or maybe I learned straight away to never take notice of the level when withdrawing a dipstick, I have always wiped it, dipped it and then checked the level, it's the raison d'être of having a rag to hand when checking the oil level, otherwise why bother with the rag if you are going to take the initial false reading? If a vehicle is unknown to me I will look at the dipstick to see if it has any oil at all and the colour before wiping and dipping to find the actual level.

I have Hankook Ventus, 2018, maybe 2019 date code & I do now recall seeing those marks so the tyres must have been quite recently fitted before I bought the wreck, I've done 31K miles on them now so they are long gone.

Looking at your profile signature and seeing that the car is 2013 I would say that spring with its intact part number label has been fitted quite recently, perhaps like me they bought what was advertised as top mounts & bearings & recieved only the mounts, they either didn't realise or found out after stripping down so put it back together without?

I think its a fan controller issue rather than a relay, its highly unlikely that relay contacts would close without the coil current being applied by the controller, theoretically possible if the contact spring broke but it would remain in that state. I think I have read that the fan controller is part of the fans assembly and is somewhat exposed to the elements leading to intermittent operation and failure. I suggest you google for Skoda cooling fan controller problems.

Coincidence, so lightning can strike twice in the same place on successive days! My apologies.