J.R.

Did you buy the car from new and have you had it serviced at the required intervals by Skoda? If so then you might get somewhere but only likley to get a contribution towards a stupid cost so in my world not even worth considering. The mileage of the vehicle has no relation to the longevity of an audio system, your vehicle is 5 years old and out of warranty, the system is an accessory, I know its a standard factory fitment but an accessory nonetheless and in no way affects the primary function of the vehicle, I say this in case you are thinking of consumer law and phrases like "fit for purpose", "merchantable quality" etc, you bought a motor nvehicle and not a hi-fi system. The garage knew what the cost would be and the response from Skoda, they rightfully didn't want to get into the dispute so sensibly suggested that you find someone who can fit an aftermarket radio for you.

That was not the case with my remap which I am still very happy with the results of 2 years and 30k miles later. I wanted it rolled back, they could do it but only at their workshop in Cornwall and Covid restrictions prevented it from happening, instead the remap was done by one of their local agents. I still intend to get it done to reduce the frequency of regens which is programmed to happen because of the over-use of EGR on the "emissions fixed" vehicles, I have an EGR simulator so they are not happening and I begrudge the frequent regens for nothing, the extra diesel it uses and the bore wash. Celtic tuning said that the remap would wor equally well on an "emission fixed" vehicle as one that had not been done and that has been the case for me, I am hoping to get them to remove the fix soon anyway. I get 50-55mpg from a 2.0 TDi 4x4 Yeti and would expect a 2wd 1.6 Blueline to be considerably better.

Well from your postings you have spent a considerable amount of time designing and planning a very admirable operating system but have yet to find a source of waste oil other than living close to a chip shop.

After you have spent the money and time doing all the conversion work you will get a nice surprise to find that there are a couple of hundred people before you in the queue for used oil at each chip shop & that Macdonalds have the recycling sorted as part of their business model. Seriously do you really think that many others going back several years will not have had the same idea as you?

While you are doing it reverse the direction of the EGR port and invest in an EGR emulator/simulator or better still have the emissions fix rolled back.

Do bears **** in the woods? Urrell has nailed it, all the "technicians" in the world staring at fault codes will be telling you there is nothing wrong with your car until the throttle stepper motor becomes obstructed. Whip it apart, clean it and you wont believe the difference in performance and economy, a Greenline should be the best of a worst bunch and not the worst.

You can have the variofloor but by doing so there would not be the depth remaining for a full width spare wheel so it would have to be a spacesaver, cue all the postings about one not being homologated for the Octavia 4x4. On my Yeti 4x4 I have a variofloor and carry the space saver on top when I use it, there is enough depth for it but it leaves only a tiny amount of space around it. To the OP the Haldex coupling and controller don't take up boot space themselves but the differential does.

Why are you looking to replace it? Are you going on what a garage has told you? What are the problems that you are suffering? How many miles has your vehicle done? The pulley one way clutch and the rotor brushes (come as part of the regulator & diode pack) are both common failures and both can be replaced in situ without removal of the alternator, that said it isn't actually that hard once you get down to it. I have yet to see one that genuinely requires replacement.

Yes, it should sell for double that.

Mine will be done whenever I am back in either Northern France or the UK where I have the tools, equipment and facilities to do the job, the nice French CT system has given me 2 months to fix this "défaillance majeure" and present it for retest. If I am still screwing around here in Nouvelle Aquitaine trying to make a hovel slightly habitable then I simply submit it to another local testing station, get the same failure and buy myself another couple of months. The car is getting lighter by the day, the aircon pulley shear plate sheared last week, it took 2 years to finally let go after my hydraulically locking the pump while regassing, well reliquiding to be precise!!, the broken hub has now been removed as will the Guibo coupling harmonic damper if it gets any more wayward.

It wont be wear, and it most definitely wont be "sized" [sic], the bond will have failed with the outer annular harmonic damper, it needs a carefull eye and diligence to spot it something that the main dealers seem to be lacking although they do make up for it in bullsh1t. Cheapest I found was €84 = £70 inc delivery from Germany

You have lost a ton of money, you just don't know it yet!

This make me think of the pair of characters played by Harry Enfield and Paul Whitehouse that wind themselves up into a frenzy 🤣

I'm surprised at how upset the OP is getting when the forum members have helped him resolve a problem he has had for several years that the dealers said nothing could be done about. I have not read anything suggesting he is a liar. So putting that aside as indeed he should have done I am very pleased that he now has the legal compliant KPH display and I do agree with him that it is too small to be of any use in my case, I only have vision in one eye and glances at the dashboard have to be no more than momentary, a much bigger display which is possible for a MPH display (Australian settings) is what I require but nobody has yet solved that one for me, if anyone can I would be really gratefull and they can even call me a liar if they want!!!! Someone said they had never heard of anyone wanting to change the digital MPH display to kms, I was one such person as was Frenchtone and there will be many others like us resident in EU countries and driving RHD vehicles. I am hoping that the person who prints speedo dial faces in kms or miles to convert the clocks from the other units will one day put the kmh markings on the MPH speedo as Skoda should have done in the first place, all I need to know is am I above or below 50kph, 70kph, 80kph, 110kph and 130kph, in fairness the 50 and 80kph limits are where most of the speed cameras etc are and I know that is close enough to either 35 or 50 mph but the 70kph limits are a challenge.

Whether it has been mapped out or disabled by an Emulator/Simulator if the EGR valve is not 100% closed it will continue to pass gases, if you want to be 100% sure then fit the blanking plate. I didn't because I wanted to remove the emulator from the circuit (unplugging the leads & reconnecting the loom ones) if I had any doubt about its operation or for fault finding by elimination.

Try that on your Yeti and you will learn as I did that the mileage check function only works with certain ECU's which doesn't include ours.

I have never known a DMF flywheel to fall apart, clonk, rattle & vibrate yes but not fall apart, however the Sachs pressure plates of that era are well known for it. I do agree that when doing the job both the clutch and DMF should be replaced at the same time, my Luk kit cost £280 delivered. The OP should not wait for the situation to develop, if it is the pressure plate it will be cutting its way through the gearbox casing.

I doubt that the screw would have been aluminium.

The OP has the later charging system that ony charges the battery to something like 60% but will use the full alternator output when braking or coasting, the behaviour that he has described is completely normal. Well what someone unfortunate to be saddled with one of the later technological disasters will have no choice but to accept as normal in any case.

I stand corrected, I have heard so much talk of console bushes I thought thats what they were.

I bought an Octavia Mk1 at 3 years old with 188K miles on the clock from a chauffeur friend, another friend from the same group MOT'd it for me, as he was driving it onto the ramp he said that the console bushes were knackered, very common, most are like that and he could tell just from the steering feel. He never failed it on the bushes because mates don't do that sort of thing but I bought a pair to fit. 15 years later the car was scrapped at 325K miles with the unused console bushes still in the boot, it never one failed a CT on them and if they were knackered I never knew any different 😆 - it drove very well but I'm sure I would have felt the difference had I changed them.

Very wise, life is too short as it is.

Wow, something must have really rattled your cage to make you so judgemental of a first time (probably the last time) poster. Why do you think my name is John?

I had none of them, I bought an engine support bar, I could have DIY'd something but it was cheap for the weight and complexity and that sort of thing always comes in usefull one day, I had to buy a clutch centering tool because the one I made as an apprentice was in the UK as were all my proper mechanics tools, torque wrenches etc, I used the Bahco socket & spanner set that I carry in the boot, I bought a wobble drive set as a precaution. The pit was nowhere near big enough and I fitted lighting to it to repay my friend for the use of it, I used the aluminium platforms of my small decorators platform to bridge the pit to lower te gearbox onto using ratchet straps. The job would have been much quicker using my mechanics tools,(they were in the UK) a vehicle lift and a transmission jack, on the basis of what you are happy to pay I could make £250 per hour and 30% margin on the parts and that is as a totally inexperienced person having done the job one time only and on no other FWD vehicles since Minis and 1100's 45 years ago. I can't understand why you think you are saving £1000, I had read it as saying you are happy to pay £1000 labour (and some) to the independant, if Skoda had wanted £3500 would you think you had saved £2K?

Jaysus!!!!!! - The parts to do mine, a LUK 3 piece clutch kit with DMF came to €320 = £266 delivered, 4 hours labour for an experienced person with a vehicle lift, longer for me first time round in a tiny confined pit, aside from the weight of the gearbox & transfer box (68kg) it was a lengthy but not difficult job.