J.R.

I have proper old school trolley jacks (one is nearly as old as me) with large lifting crutches, I managed to find some rubber pads big enough but they dont have the groove, what they do though is deform enough to spread the weight across 150mm of the cill bottom and also the horizontal sections above but they dont fracture the plastic undertray which they also sit under. I have finally after all this time found a safe way to lift the car to support it on 4 axle stands safely, I position it under the cill about 12" back from the front jacking point and lift the whole side of the car, this is much safer than doing it in 2 bites especially when you get to the other side and on a sloping drive like mine, there is no deflection of the cill under the load when using the large rubber pad and it leaves no marks afterwards.

The starter on mine was bulletproof, it was my first diesel and I never learned how to prime the injection system after running out of fuel, at one time the sender guage played up and running dry was a frequent occurrence, that starter several times cranked the engine for what seemed like 10 minutes and smoke was billowing out of the windings but it never gave up, it did 18 years and 500000 kms without even a change of brushes, just the one time with the corroded terminal which the abuse cannot have helped.

Its possible the OP may be confused between open and shut, I didn't want to complicate matters with that but as you say the engine would not run with the throttle valve shut. They really should have given it a different name than throttle.

Petrol or diesel? What engine type? Sorry, I see now its in the title, not visible when i was replying. The throttle valve should be closed when the engine is shut down to stop running on, it should be fully open when running except when recirculating the exhaust gases (EGR) if you can see it then you have the intake trunking off & hence there is no airflow through the MAF sensor and the valve will probably not be commanded to open.

How does the car drive? Did you adjust the torsion value correctly using VCDS? If so and it reads zero (the aim) are you sure its a true zero (very hard to achieve) and not an out of limits zero? The value should change when you rev the engine, if it doesn't then its a false zero.

Wrong size, wrong way round, one or both incorrectly aligned on the spindle. For the latter switch on the wipers and switch off the ignition just before they are going to clash, one will need moving on its spindle to give the required clearance, seeing where they are in the park & full sweep position will help you decide which one is needs correcting.

The plastic master cylinder is right beside the DPF which is at 650°c + during regens, it also exceeds that under heavy acceleration with the higher powered TDi engines. Mine seemed fine but was in fact a ticking time bomb, when I had it remapped to (allegedly) 184hp the clutch played up exactly as you describe on the drive home after only a couple of acceleration runs, I got home & bled the clutch & the fluid was black & full of sediment, within 2 days & after multiple bleeding sessions it had failed completely & I had to limp home without stopping, I can drive without a clutch but didn't want to start a diesel with DMF in gear, I doubt it would even allow me to. An autopsy showed the displacement seal had completely disintegrated. Even with the new cylinder I would have problems if I gave it the beans constantly, the odd overtake is OK but not sustained racing, the clutch often has free play at the top of the stroke that it shouldn't but will return to normal with actioning, its why I have the spare cylinder.

Clutch master cylinder, dont expect Autotechnic to be interested in the correct cheap solution when they can strap you up for a clutch, dmf and possibly gearbox. On two different threads you have recounted two very different historys, one one the title is gearbox failure but you describe clutch problems, on this the title is clutch and flywheel but you speak of juddering and grinding in one gear and becoming stuck in first gear. From reading them both I think its the master cylinder which is the cheapest and easiest job and should IMO be tackled first, it is a known weak component and you will read many threads on here and on other forums that describe exactly the problems that you have and many more where garages have played parts bingo with the customers wallet, several saying they never got to find out what as actually the cause as the garage had to replace everything.

Is £1500 reasonable? Not if it is the master cylinder that now you have properly explained the problem I am convinced that it is, there is the possibility that it could be a fractured Sach clutch pressure plate but the pedal would not have returned and the clutch operated after pumping if it were that. VAG cylinder & seal kit retail price £145.60 Add one hours labour plus brake fluid. After fitting the VAG cylinder I bought an OEM one as a spare for €21.48 (£18.46) including tracked delivery. Sounds like they have already decided that you are on the hook for a clutch, slave cylinder, DMF and maybe even a gearbox.

It sounds exactly like a failure of the clutch master cylinder, I recently had to replace mine, if there is no fluid loss( which would have triggered the brake warning light) then dont allow them to give you bull that the slave cylinder has gone & they need to remove the gerabox, replace the clutch, DMF etc that they all do before then charging the customer even more for replacing the master cylinder. There is no pedal failure although many may be fed that line, its the master cylinder that fails, if I were a betting man I would say that your Yeti is diesel and one of the higher powered variants, 140 or 170hp and does a lot of urban driving.

Thanks Amanda, I love you!

You will I hope be pleased to learn that that was only part of the story John, I do indeed have a smartphone on a separate contract which never gets used as a phone but for taking credit card payments from guests and its also of great value when I am in the UK as a hotspot so I can use the internet, it never leaves the home & if I were to use it as a phone it would not last 5 minutes, the Nokias have survived several falls from scaffolding, ladders etc & wont break if I sit down or lean against something. No-one has the number yet it still rings, probably scams, it took me 2 years to know how to actually answer a call without cutting it off or sending an automated text reply you tap the phone signal to call but it doesn't work for answering, swiping is alien to me and so I would get it right one in 4 times but that would be over a 12 month period so no way of remembering, too much to ask that a phone should have a symbol to answer a call that is fit for the purpose. Oh it also gets used for Whatsapp but only using the computer interface so it sits on charge in the same room all the time except when its used for credit card payments and their ain't been many of those in the last year Its an Android phone.

Windows 7 but you will need to explain the last paragraph in idiot terms, sounds like you are suggesting I use the computer and a mobile phone to cast what is on the computer to the television, I am guessing that is wireless?

I am learning!!!! So that is a VGA + Audio to HDMI lead, a picture is worth a thousand words. Do the USB connectors on a PC carry an audio signal as standard? Editted, I guess thats what the small banana plug adaptor is for. If so that will do what I need, I will have to move the laptop to the unit under the TV and arrange a charging point but its not the end of the world. Being the eternal optimist and thinking that USB sockets can be used for charging, is there any possibility that that lead would charge the laptop via the USB from the TV?

But what are they? I was going to buy a VGA lead until Cheezemonkhai disabused me (sorry for the French, dont know how to say it in english). The hdmi still won’t carry audio as the vga doesn’t put it out. if you’re adding cables in the wall get a vga to vga + audio and hdmi to hdmi run into the face plates. That way you’re somewhat future proof for up to 4K without having to rip the wall apart again. I dont understand the + audio bit above, what cable or cables will I need to get the sound from the computer to the TV or preferably is there a wireless way so that the computer can stay where it is? I seem to recall that before when I got the French TV channels through a secondary box (Freebox TV) to the ADSL box I could have played stuff from the computer but it was all a bit beyond me then. The box got removed when the government put a €2 a month surcharge on the ADSL providers giving TV channels, I had the same channels from the antenne so the box was removed. Now they will be connecting me to fibre optique there will be a new box and a TV box, if the €2 per month is dropped I will use the box again, not sure how it all works but my computer connects to the ADSL soon to be fibre box by wi-fi and it in turn connects wirelessly to the TV box if that makes any sense?

I can rustle up 1076kg of ballast but I'm afraid that I cannot go out and drive at 130mph to try it for you as I have been under curfew for the last hour and three quarters. As e-Root-toot says, does it really matter?

Did you actually submit your dashcam evidence? I am wondering if just the mention of it existing is likely to make the scammers back down?

Could it be that the drivers exit the vehicle quickly like me? In one single motion I unclip the belt with my left hand, open the door with my right and get out at the same time, the seat belt unwinds over my shoulder as I am getting out, once or twice I have become hung up on it! That is to say the damage is done on rewinding and not extending. Most others it seems remove their seat belt and spend 5 minutes staring at their phones before getting out, when I see a car of guests arrive I walk out to the car park to greet them, there can be a family of 5 in the car and I can be standing right beside the car for 10 minutes before anyone even realises.

I am going to give up on this again, my thanks to whoever created the thread in my name, its a shame that it has degenerated into a "look at what I have got!" and "you must be a dinosaur to have those old things" type of discussion. At least I have saved the money in not buying a VGA cable because I did not know that there would be no sound. It has also explained why when the apartments are rented which was pretty much 100% before Covid and now zero percent, thet frequently I could not access the internet and had to disconnect the router for the guest Wi-fi, some or all of them will have been armed with sticks and drawing all the ADSL debit. I have already had 3 notification from Hadopi where renters have made illegal downloads, I am the one responsable for the €10K + fines and who will have his internet connection shut down. For those of you who use these streaming services when away from home if you are using a guest wi-fi network have a thought to consequences to the other users or the owner. If there is a way to connect my computer by cable to the TV to watch Youtube videos with vision and sound then I would still like to know, it looks like the streaming is a no go for this citizen of the stone age.

Thankyou to you both, I had thought of tucking the cable out of the way but 15m is a lot of cable to hide! I will run it behind the placo to come out behind the unit underneath and fit another wall socket so I can put the computer there & keep it on charge, the battery died when I was using VCDS the other day so it has little autonomy left. Is there any advantage in using a VGA to HDMI instead of VGA to VGA?

You people have a lot to answer for I will be checking my car tomorrow for evidence of a clandestine angle grinder wielding mischief maker And then will spend the rest of my life staring at other peoples B pillars and telling them they need teaching how to use a seatbelt

My apologies, looks like I was completely wrong. I am really surprised that it would be such a sh1te design on a safety critical item.

That is not the seatbelt that has cut the surround, the belt does not rub against it there, look carefully and you will see that someone has cut through it with an angle grinder in order to remove it without dismantling the seatbelt mechanism that contains an explosive charge. You would be faced with the same problem to fit a new one unless you cut it making a neater job. The real question is why did they do it? I replaced the seatbelts in my Yeti (the pyrotechnics had deployed) but I didn't have to cut anything, I think from memory removing the lower fixing allowed the belt & buckle etc to pass through the surround so you should on reflection be OK. Editted, is the airbag not in the top side face of the seat?

Sorry, got my knickers in a twist, the Skybox goes into a rear HDMI, I could not feel the second one at the rear so it makes sense that its at the side. Any way of connecting my computer to that? I recall looking into this in the past, the VGA socket on my computer does not have the female threads. I have just used an inspection mirror and torch at the rear of the TV, it does indeed have a VGA socket and its labelled as such! That one has the threaded hexagon retainers. So presumably I could connect my computer to the TV with a VGA-VGA lead? Next problem is lack of access to the socket and that I cannot abide visible cables.

What will really reduce the life of the clutch is driving swiftly getting on the throttle and off the clutch quickly on upshifts and to a lesser degree standing starts. which lets face it, after having a remap it would be rude not to do The plastic "clutch bleed block" is referred to by VAG as the "clutch torque limiter" when driving gently, slow gearchanges, slow re-engagement of clutch & accelerator on upshifts there is no ill effect, do it a little faster and the internal fluid return restrictor will only release the clutch slowly against full throttle & turbo spool up resulting in clutch slip, you barely notice it and wonder if you have imagined it but it has a cumulative affect & will kill the clutch resulting in slip on wide open throttle/full boost in the higher gears. It is there to protect the drivetrain from "dump the clutch" drag starts AKA sidestepping the clutch especially on 4wd models, but instead of limiting the engine torque it slips the clutch