J.R.

I have a slightly different requirement if its possible. Living in France as I do I am quite happy with the standard UK setting of a MPH analogue speedometer and the km/h display in the maxidot, it is however very small, I have sight problems especially close up and its difficult to read sometimes. I keep reading postings on the subject of "LARGE MPH display on maxidot" is there some VCDS coding where I could have the km/h digital display in larger font? I dont mind if it has to be on a seperate display from the MFD info. Many thanks.

Wotizzit? A VW something, but what?

Have there been any developments @John@C ?

Problem solved, enigma resolved, a very simple answer and solution. The tailgate latch has 2 positions, a half latched and a fully closed & locked position, the luggage compartment lights only go out on the second fully closed position. Using my finger I had not pushed the locking hook past the first position. I dont recall the previous cars having this but maybe they did, on those I had not fitted high level LED's on the D pillar to disturb my rear view mirror vision.

I thought you once may have been called Pat! Am hoping the half blindness may be half resolved with another operation tomorrow.

Dont leave those bump stops as they are though or you may have broken springs to add to your collection.

On the previous vehicles it could simply be done by closing the locking hasp with my finger or a screwdriver etc, just as you would do with the bonnet catch in order to do a parasitic voltage test. For some reason it doesn't work on this vehicle, maybe I need to put a dowel in their pretending to be the locking staple for the microswitch to be activated. Simply too Clever

Are you sure about the 16km? While I was rebuilding my vehicle it was started and left idling many times over a few months, eventually the regen warning light came on, I let it idle till the engine was at operating temp although the oil was not at 90°c, I drove 1km to the M23 and then 3 or 4km at 70 mph to the next exit by which time the regen had already completed and the light extinguished. Maybe 16km at slow urban speeds from a cold start in winter?

I dont need a suggestion, I have several solutions for when I know what I will be collecting, however what you suggest is 3 points of contact with 80cm between the roof rails and 2.5 meters from them to the front support, laid through the vehicle they have 4 evenly spaced points of contact over 3 meters.

Let me make myself clear, I have been transporting materials for 4 decades, I dont need tips of how to carry long lengths, I have several solutions and I also carry 2 types of saw in my vehicle but sometimes the unexpected happens like this occasion. What I am asking for is information on what the sensing is on later vehicles which tells the BCM to switch on the rear compartment illumination as it is not simply the lock latch microswitch on earlier cars. The Octavia and Yeti estates are very suited to carrying long lengths that need supporting along their length, they can rest on the dashboard (I carry foam to cushion against braking) the reclined fromt seat, the folded rear seat and the tailgate slam panel, its not just long lengths that need the rear door to be opened, moving a fridge or furniture may be a couple of inches too long and you wont be carrying them on the roof or cutting them down. My vehicle is used as a workhorse as has its predecessors for the last 15 years, I regularly carry materials and over here you have to take advantage of special offers when you stumble on them, its rare to know in advance and to have the luxury of preparation. Correct, I was only going to use 3 lengths for this project, the other 9 are now on my lumber rack.

I just found a post it note that I made when I last had the guages on the Yeti after a recharge, lets say it was 25°c cos I cant recall!! The high side pressure ramped up when AC switched on and when it reaches 150 p1ssys the fans cut in and the pressure drops to 120 p1ssys.

High side is far too high, should be about 150 and then dropping to 120ish when desired temperature is reached. According to my working notes printed off the internet using their words "blockage between fan switch and eveporator find point of temperature change 80°c to cold" Make of that what you will, its gone over my head. Does sound like a blockage though. From other notes - "remember, as the pressure increases the temperature also increases, so the pipes/filter etc will be HOT up to the point of the blockage and COLD (possibly freezing) after the blockage." - which explains the above and it now makes sense. Good luck!

A straightened out coathanger with a small eye formed on the end is my tool of choice. I have had the same one curved into a loop carried in my toolbox since I was installing burglar alarms in 1992, the same one in a Triggers Broom type of way! At the other end of the spectrum I have a 4m telescopic carbon fibre fishing pole with a coathanger eye on both ends for use above ceiling voids & suspended ceilings, same vintage, doesn't get used much but the coathanger is regularly used.

These were 40 x 25 sawn battens, had I known the length I would have taken the trailer with its front support. What I really need is a fold down windscreen. It was either a BJ40 or a Yeti, the Yeti wins hands down for most of my journeys but cant do everything.

Pumping will work if a helper closes off the nipple at the bottom of every downstroke on command from the person on the pedal. Pumping alone as the OP intimated will just shuffle a slug of fluid & air backwards & forwards. For a clutch the easiest way is to block the pedal down overnight & let the air rise through to the reservoir.

It is the shocks!!!! The protection sleeves are bouncing up and down and rattling every time the car hits a bump.

Not asking for a software change, just for info on where the door closed sensing occurs so that I can shunt it either for long loads or when working from the rear of the car. I have done all the changes to the rear lighting and am very happy with the results, I simply want to have manual control of it in 2 particular circumstances. I dont like driving with the rear open for the reasons you mention, yesterday I went to buy a bundle of 40mm x 25mm sawn battens which I use for DIY constructions, they have always been sold in 2.4 metre lengths and even 3m I could carry inside at a pinch but yesterday I found they were now 4m long Things of that length and rigidity cannot be carried on the roof bars with the fixings for them being at 80cm pitch. I really miss the sunroof of the MK1 Octavia Estate. I drove 25 miles with the tailgate partially open with and without the drivers window open for ventilation, no noticeable diesel exhaust smell at 50mph. Red arrow removed

That is not the way to bleed a brake or clutch system.

All rear end shunts were in the UK, the last one while I was French resident, always claimed successfully from 3rd party insurers, no loading of my premiums, I retained the salvage and made money from the repairs although would rather have avoided the situations. Tailgating never a problem on the autoroutes, its in hick areas like mine where people want to push the car in front to go faster rather than overtake, driving standards en campagne are deplorable, pretty much every journey you will see another wrecked car in a filed having rolled multiple times, a dead straight road with no side turnings, no other vehicles involved, loads and loads of drunken drivers. Get on the périphérique de Paris and you will see a very high standard of driving and lane discipline, very cut & thrust and no-one is hanging around. Parking in Paris & large cities is another matter entirely, people park bumper to bumper actually touching & will have caused dents & scratches each time, when the plates were pressed steel they would look like something on a dodgem car, nobody uses their handbrake when parking like that, when someone needs to extract their vehicle they just push the line of cars ahead or behind, or both until there is enough space to get out. I drove to the Monaco Grand Prix in 2004 in a split screen camper, we camped in the street and it was constantly being shunted by people parking or wanting to extract their vehicles, at the traffic lights on the steep hills we noticed that people were stopping touching the bumper of the car in front (we kept getting shunted again) and soon found out why, nobody could do a hillstart with the handbrake, they would release it and roll back into the car behind before engaging the clutch. We would leave a normal gap and the car in front would roll back gathering speed and ram us the bedbug had super solid bumpers and they would damage their vehicle and tell me it was my fault for not being close behind them or touching!

Thats normal but worth doing a current draw test anyway just in case its an alternator diode problem, that would normally discharge quicker though.

Its simply the foam rubber bump stops which also locate the piston rod covers that need replacing, they are very very cheap and easy to replace. Normally the noise is the plastic sleeve rattling around but I cannot see them in your photos, are they hangging lower down or has someone previously removed them? If they have then water & dust ingress may have damaged the shocks, are they still damping correctly?

I often have to carry lengths of timber or materials that are too long to fit inside, not having a sunroof since my MK1 Octavia they now have to hang out of the boot like I did today for the first time with the Yeti where I discovered a big inconvenience exacerbated by my having fitted LED lights to illuminate the luggage compartment including some at high level on the rear D pillars. On previous cars manually closing the boot locking hasp will tell the BCM that the boot is closed it works for the bonnet on the Yeti (for battery drain tests) but not the boot, driving back this evening I had all the interior lights on including the aforementioned LED ones which in the rear view mirror looked exactly like a car pulling out to overtake, I was able to switch off the front courtesy lights & could have done the rear ones manually but it was the interior boot lights that caused the problem, to make it worse the time-out function did not work as it would with the ignition off. Finally the satnav was unusable as there was a rear door open pictogram in the middle of the screen and the maxidot was not functional as the whole dispaly showed the door open pictogram. So what do I need to do next time to resolve this, I get the impression that there is both a microswitch on the lock and also a tailgate closed switch/sensor although not visible anywhere, possibly a mercury switch. Also there is an opposite inconvenience, while I am digging through the essential breakdown stuff under the variofloor after a few minutes the trunk lights go out to protect the battery, they wont come back on by manually actioning the lock I have to physically close and re-open the tailgate which if I am loading something is a real problem. Whatever the solution to the first problem is will no doubt resolve the second, probably a shunt switch. Any ideas?

1 - Alarm horn battery leakage over the PCB. 2. Aftermarket radio preventing canbus shutting down 3. Towing electrics relay. 4. Dashcam.

Snap! I was also making blipping the throttle downshift noises when I remodelled the back of the 105e van

I understand the desire for others to have and use removable towbars if someone has found their vehicle damaged in a car park but it also works the other way, after recieving many parking bumps to the rear bumper often while we are sat in the vehicle we would wish that we had a towbar.