J.R.

I have to ask the same question then "how does that work?" with relation to the dubious sounding "variable tooth spacing on the rack & pinion"

The only time your radiator fan should stay on after switch off is if you have interrupted a DPF regen, you speak of short journeys so that may well have been the case. The engine temperature will rarely if ever engage the cooling fans but the aircon will, when the pressure is low the high side pressure will not rise enough for the cooling fans to cut in and cool the condensor, as VCDS is showing low refrigerant pressure then the aircon pump will not be commanded and you will never hear the fans except for during a regen or of the engine overheats. I think you should be concerned with why you were frequently hearing the fans running on shutdown, the hot bonnet suggests a regen, your driving profile may not suit your vehicle if its diesel but your forum profile does not say what engine you have.

I have never ever managed to see one on a Skoda no matter how much I contort myself, like my rectum I know its there and can feel it, although to date have resisted plugging in an OBDII cable to download my health stats It will probably happen in my lifetime and no doubt it will be me doing the connection with the doctor at the end of the internet!

How does that work then? Or do you mean variable assistance? It could work with a cone drive Gilgen of Switzerland used to be the leaders of variable ratio linear drives, cannot imagine a variable rack & pinion though.

It does indeed work where for whatever reason the self adjust mechanism is not working at its best, probably **** as you say! You can even feel it working as you do it through the handbrake. I find sometimes that you really have to stand on the brake pedal, I think that might be when the rear discs are corroded and the pads tapered.

Changing the level of power assistance is not going to change the gearing of your steering, it will not change it into a quick-rack and cannot make it sharper, you turn the steering wheel through X degrees in Y seconds and the road wheels will turn through X/n degrees in the same Y seconds. You are more likely to achieve some of the result you desire by suspension and damping mods.

Indeed, things may have crossed the other way. Even 25 years ago when I got my first chip fat burner the recieved wisdom was that diesels were much more expensive to maintain, it was bullsh1t.

Good advice. As I only get one genuine customer enquiry on the phone out of a hundred or even a thousand call centre calls its very difficult to reign back and become pleasant when I have mistakenly started with my incivility.

I had that after removing the hub, I had not retightened properly one of the wishbone (I think) securing bolts, long time ago but the torque steer was unnerving, bolt tightened and all was well. Check everything that you released but particularly the wishbone mountings, I will stick my neck out and say it is the front one as that would move forward under acceleration.

You simply push the wire to one side which disengages the hook, with some effort, or you can pull the whole seat squab sideways which will bend one wire allowing the opposite hook to disengage. They get easier after the first time. I am writing that assuming that its the same system as on the Octavia, without a photo its impossible to say.

If you can live with your conscience then good luck, a similar current drain took my 2 month old Varta below the 10.6v point of no return, my CCA tester showed that it had lost a lot of its life and its resting cell voltage has been low ever since but its still starting the vehicle 18 months on, we all learn from our mistakes and the price we pay for them.

Completely normal!

Likely to be a fractured wire in the door loop, take a look under the concertina sleeve.

I have been driving diesels exclusively for the last 20 years (time flys) and as someone that does their own repairs the maintenance costs are far less than the petrol engined vehicles that I had driven, repaired & serviced for the 25 years before that. The savings in spark plugs alone have been considerable, I did replace all 4 glowplugs on my MK2 Octavia (£30 or so) but they made not the slightest bit of difference so the money did not need spending, with long life oil my service intervals are twice what they used to be, I get the impression with the modern petrol engines its not just plugs that need changing but that leads & coil packs often fail, the simplicity of the diesel engine makes for low running costs although the EU4,5 & 6 versions are so complicated thats probably no longer true. I took my 1.9 TDi MK1 Octavia up to 325000 miles and all I ever replaced was one cam belt at a cost of £8, coolant temp sensor for around the same price and an alternator regulator brush pack, maybe £20. I dont doubt that if you pay the main stealers for servicing they will find a way to make a diesel cost you more.

Not sure on your model but I doubt it, its usually a separate siren unit, on my Octavia it was under the RH front wheel arch, the noise from the Yeti sounds to be from the same area.

I thought that you said you were only using an app on your phone? In which case its rubbish in = rubbish out, you cant blame the app for the innacuracy of your phones GPS tracking. Why dont you just set your stopwatch when you set out and when you get back? You may not be doing exactly 5km in any case, its only an improvement that you are looking for and I find looking at the results while I am running can be counter productive, I prefer to listen to my body.

The pcb mounted back up batteries in the alarm have failed & leaked acid over the circuit board, disconnect it!

I must give one a try some day.

I have a Garmin forerunner, its never more than 20m out over the course of a semi-marathon, they have KM markers and mine triggers within meters and you can hear all the other watches beeping in proximity to it. Its worth the investment for the functionality of the app, if I zoom in very close on the map of a run I have done I can see the different lines taken through bends on the outward and return legs, even where I have walked to the side of the verge to take a leak.

Your rear springs are shagged, the car is dragging its ar5e like a dog with worms

What is the driving experience of the Roomster like compared to an Octavia or Yeti? I am sold on the packaging, I would accept the lower driving position but am not sure if it feels like a small hatchback (the Fabia) to drive or drives like a much bigger car. I much prefer the Yeti to the previous Octavias but I think the only tangible difference is the seating position and height.

The rear suspension is soft as sh1te on the Octy estate especially if its on the original springs, the bump stops come into play a lot more than they really should which contributes to their failure. You really feel the difference with just replacing them alone but I think the noise is the piston rod sleeves bouncing up and down with the bumps, in any case they need replacing as a priority and that will reveal if the springs are broken (a good chance) or there are any problems with the dampers like you experienced.

The noise is the shock absorber dust sleeves which have detached and are bouncing around, replace the bump stop rubbers. It will be compounded by the suspension losing the rising rate of the bump stops and bottoming out.

I hadn't appreciated how lucky I was to have dodged that bullet Graham!

Then the appropriate module on the vehicle should have been reprogrammed to suit the new battery.