J.R.

Probably not required at that age of vehicle Urrell, my 2015 does not have any of that rubbish thankfully. Pedant alert, in case the OP does not understand, for later vehicles with stop-start systems there may be a requirement to recode the vehicles battery management module to suit the new battery but a battery cannot be programmed to a vehicle.

EGF regeneration.

Yes it absolutely can be removed leaving the bumper in situ. After removing the fixings you need to release the clips from the bumper to remove the grille & surround as one unit, then more clips to seperate them from each other. If you are hoping to save the grille surround then you will need patience and determination in equal measure. The inner grille, the slatted part costs around £60 IIRC and was one of the most expensive parts of my rebuild, it may even have been £80. The dealer will charge you for the surround and the inner as the mechanics wont have the patience or skill to seperate them and they are there to sell parts not to do difficult tasks for their £196. It would take me 10 minutes to remove and replace the grille and surround as one unit.

Oh you can certainly get it in and a little bit more in the filler neck, all depends on whether you like to live dangerously. Now I have a CR engine with the fragile pumping system which will run swarf through everything if its run dry I am a little more conservative, I still go 30 miles after zero is showing on the MFD though. I have used 2 integrated cameras, the tailgate handle type on my last car and a number plate light one on the Yeti, I would only go with the former now as it gives a straight rear view, the number plate light one has an offset view because it is offset and makes it difficult to reverse straight and parallel to kerbs, walls etc.

Correct, there is an Elephant in the room though. If you are correct and the beam has been bent it would increase the wheel clearance to the outside arch, the OP's right wheel is rubbing, if the presumed bent axle beam is replaced he could have the left wheel rubbing as well!!! The best way to know what is what is to establish a centre line datum and take measurements from that, also from both front wheels with them tracked parallel and facing directly ahead, this itself can be checked with reference to the datum centre line. String, chalkline, plumbob, spirit level and flat floor needed, or spend money on a 4 wheel alignment check with someone competent and trustworthy.

2.5mm offset from the nominal centre line position, assuming that the bodywork, wings and inner wings are spot on, in reality there are tolerances on everything and a standard vehicle would have a wheel envelope designed to take all of these at their worst case and still have probably 12mm to spare to allow for dynamic loading, tyre deflection etc. 2.5mm is almost certainly within the manufacturers tolerances not that they will give a measurement for what the OP has measured, it would be a product of all the other dimensions and their tolerance limits (maximum & minimum material condition) The axle beam may have distorted mountings from a kerbing, but equally the floorpan mounts may be distorted, the axle beam probably being stronger, were the OP to blindly change the axle it may make no difference at all, it could even become worse according to the where the mounting points of the replacement are within the tolerances. Its something that comes up frequently when modifying a vehicle and the answer is usually shimming or modifying of the mounting points to achieve a central position, were it me I would be more concerned with its relationship to the front wheels and not the relationship of wider rear wheels to the bodywork.

Since bringing the Yeti to France I have never been aware of it doing a regen, probably because usually I do a 2 x 10 mile return journey to the running club 3 times a week. I stopped going a couple of weeks ago because I was concerned by the lack of distanciation by many and did not want to be associated with it, yesterday on returning from a 25 mile journey on switch off I found that I had interrupted a regen, the fans were running. I left it as it was. Today realising that with the confinement tonight its going to see very few journeys and really short ones at that for a couple of months I thought I should complete the regen or its probably a case of start one again. These were the VCDS figures before setting out, the engine was idling for the differential pressure sensor readings, they increased when the engine was revved. The second log (cant work out how to put them where I want in the text) is after the journey: I'm not sure if it regenned on the 20 mile round trip that I did, the idle did seem a little high at times, there was a harshness & vibration when accelerating from low revs, the data seems to indicate that the last regen was 300km ago, could it be that it hit the threshold & started a regen which was partially completed, enough to drop the soot figure so as it did not try again and it is not logged as it was not completed? Any other observations on the figures? Log-YETI-TMBMC75L6F6053795-DPF Measure.txt Log-YETI-TMBMC75L6F6053795-DPF Measure.txt

Poor driving unlikely, when 4th gear was the direct top gear the selector fork could become worn through the driver resting his hand on the gearlever eventually leading to engagement problems but it would not wear the synchro cone. They have been pretty much bullletproof & over-engineered for decades now especially German vehicles, if someone drove for a few weeks without a clutch they might wear one or more synchros, the only thing that could definitely wear it out would be a deliberate act, revving the car and pulling hard on the gearlever towards the 4th gear position without disengaging the clutch. You may have been the ultimate victim of some bad blood towards the previous owner, its a very rare failure on modern VAG gearboxes, or simply a part with a crack that finally let go.

Probably missing tha fact that you have a variofloor or raised floor for a spare wheel. That said the single hooks that I have each side are higher than that, I have to cross the handles on my shopping bags, lean them over and only hook on the furthest bag handle. - I know what I mean but no-one else will!!

You are going to get an error code if any part of the system is disconnected, in this case the drivers airbag. You need to reconnect everything before resetting the fault code. You say there is no wiring going to the front seats, is N95 not the drivers seat airbag or were they not fitted at this age?

T.P.S.

My views on them have changed completely with the passage of 34 years, they looked the part then when the vehicle underneath looked fit for its purpose, the bullbars & light guards gave it extra protection if used in extremis (& to hell with pedestrians AFAI was concerned then), the sill bars were cosmetic chocolate teapots that damaged the bodywork when one ripped off in an AWDC event on an obstacle that the vehicle without them would have cleared undamaged. These days where 4x4's look like a Playmobil as we say in France a bullbar looks completely stupid which it probably did to the rest of the world when I thought it looked cool.

I can think of a good reason for not fitting a bull bar especially one that picks up on the front bumper beam mounting points, and there is nothing else to fix to on the front of the car. Any impact transferred directly to those chassis longeron mounting points, that is to say metal to metal without a plastic/rubber/foam cushioning structure will set off the dashboard airbags, the drivers knee and steering wheel airbags and the seatbelt pyrotechnics, this alone is enough to write off an almost new vehicle. I know because that is exactly what had happened to mine, I dont know what it hit but the only visible damage was some cracked slats in the radiator grille and a couple of scratches and stress cracks in the paint of the bumper. The impcat had been transferred by the bumper & the inner polystyrene filler to the inner metal bumper beam, this has 2 short longerons that form the primary sacrificial crumple zone, one side was deformed so I can understand the shock sensor deploying the airbags, the bumper and polystyrene infill were both reused without any repairs and you would never know, thats how effective they are. With a bull bar the vehicle structure has none of that protection and more importantly neither does a pedestrian unfortunate enough to be hit by it.

Where and how are you taking the measurements? However you take them, are you saying that the RH dimension is 5mm more (or less) than the left hand one? That would indicate an offset of 2.5mm which may even be within tolerance and is so small as to be beyond the measuring capabilities of most of us. A simple lateral offset of small magnitude with the toe angles and L/R wheelbase measurements being correct is not going to have any noticeable effect on the vehicle.

Back in 87 I had a SWB Shogun which came with the obligatory bullbar, light guards & side steps fitted new by the supplying dealer, I bought it second hand and found that instead of using the brackets for the side steps they had cut them off and welded the tubes directly to the chassis rails Someone reversed into me at a petrol station through their impatience and damaged the bullbar although not as much as their van, my insurers paid for a new one & claimed from the T.P. insurers so in those happy days fitting non legal non declared accessories was not a problem. Might have been different if I had shunted him as he claimed though.

It may yet haunt the new owner, had it recurred during my time I would have bodged in more Wago connectors.

I bought a 2006 Octavia that had had that issue from new, literally thousands spent over the years every MOT and service time claiming to have found and fixed the fault, even charging for a new airbag which I can state categorically from investigation had never been fitted. I removed the connector at the front of the seat rail and used Wago 223 connectors on each core but to my surprise the fault returned twice again and I was onto the merry go round of resets and wondering when it would happen again, then I found out that there was a second connector tucked up under the seat squab, I released the seat rails to tip the seat up to find it and there was indeed one and giving it a push & pull resulted in a satisfying click and the problem was finally resolved after 13 years! No question about the connectors under the carpet trim mouldings at the front of the seat rails are problematic but big feet pushing under the seat are equally likely to disturb the hidden unknown connector.

Tenuously on topic in relation to bodge jobs on seat belts and the RAC blue book. I saw an enclosed glass fibre kit car racer presented for Scrutineering at Lydden Hill once, either a Ginetta or a Marcos, one look at it told you it was a shed and the closer you got the more embarrassing the bodges you saw, the scrutineer had a fit when he saw that the 3 point harness upper mounting was attached to the roll cage by a jubilee clip I kid you not!

10.6 milliamperes Wino. Significant, 3 times what I thought and enough to reduce the standby autonomy of my vehicle by 1/3. Of course it can be switched off. Not a problem while I am using the vehicle even infrequently and on balance I would rather be able to see that its getting towards 12v (lowest I have seen is 12.3) so I can start and drive it or charge it. What I dont want to do is leave it switched on if its left at an airport during a holiday (I wish!) and also accidentally switch on the towing relay while removing the cases! And I forgot to confirm that it drew no current when switched off, you cant assume anything!

Mine have switches on them to switch off the display although only the one on the standby battery in the shed is switched off, I dont know how much current, you have me concerned now, I will measure it!

Those are flow rates on a test bench with no restriction, the standard water pump would probably exceed those at high engine revs. Only 2.5 litres cooling system capacity, that sounds far too small but I havn't read the topic so maybe you have a small capacity radiator and no heater matrix.

There is a simple solution to that Ricardo unless you live in a high crime area. With the bonnet open engage the locking mechanism latch using a screwdriver or similar, the car should then think the bonnet is closed & the maxidot display should confirm this (no bonnet open icon). You can then put the bonnet down unlocked but with the secondary catch holding it open a couple of inches and lock the car for the night. The next morning you can open the bonnet and take your battery voltage reading without the car knowing and waking up. I understand exactly what you suspect and are trying to achieve, I think you are correct in your suspicion & ultimately when you remove the shunt link & go to a standard charging profile you will probably extend the life of your new battery. I think you can do this by simply watching the charging, standby and resting voltages without having to measure the current, I have a simple LED voltage readout on my centre console which I can see from outside the car while it is locked & when I am driving, it would do all that you want at present and warn you if ever you need to start the car to charge the battery if it has been standing too long, there are ones that plug into the cigar lighter socket but I prefer the fixed ones: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-24V-4-2A-Dual-USB-Car-Motorcycle-Charger-Socket-Adapter-Outlet-LED-Voltmeter/264627199821?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=564417022622&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

How would they, or how do you, know that said person offering advice does not know?

Scuttle plenum chamber drain holes blocked by leaves & detritus?