J.R.

Statement or question? The exclamation marks suggest the former in which case you forgot to add the link to the place you recommend.

No it was bodged and I now know totally uneccessary surgery by a private surgeon in the UK that left me not only blind but hung out to dry. I was convinced it was a detached retina but they preferred to deny than accept responsability, returned to the ophtalmic surgeon in France as soon as I was able, my diagnosis confirmed and operated on immediately but 17 days with a totally not partially detached retina was far too long, 24 hours is the maximum. Nonetheless she produced a miracle and tomorrow will see if there is any useable vision to be regained,.

I like that mesh cover and the way itt's attached to the tailgate, I am partially sighted (surgery tomorrow may recover some) and I hate the way on the Yeti that when I lean over to get something out of the rear my head hits the edge of the parcel shelf.

Thanks, I have become accustomed to the Elegance spec now! Says he with a poverty spec Yeti and constantly trying to add the missing bits.

If that is your rear spring on the road in the foreground I think your suspicion is founded

They dither because they know that liability is not challenged by the other party, they probably get a kickback from the rental company. For every 2 car incident there will be one company geing generous to their policyholder with the other companies funds, it all balances out in the end and guess who ultimately pays!!!

Evidenced by the "unhelpfull" arrow. I had never recieved one until getting a Yeti and thus engaging with a new forum sub group, I have 19 now mostly from the same person, still looking at their profile they only seem to give them to me so I should be flattered. If the cap fits.........................

Well done, did the old surround survive your removal? If so is it a chrome one and do you want to sell it? Mine was bent in the accident and broke while removing it from the bumper and the grille from it, I re-used it with the new grille but it has a sharpish visible butt joint between the two broken edges. I wasn't going to pay top money for that and also the plastic slam panel above (I plastic welded it) when they will be cheap one day in the breakers.

Presumably if this happens & the vehicle behind runs into you its their fault insurance wise? I know that this has been over-ridden where there is dashcam evidence to show that they were repeatedly brake tested by the car in front which was a bit confusing because the driver will have been alert and could have held back. But this could be a get out of jail free card for the brake testers which I admit to being one of under duress (if you lived in France you would understand) I don't do it with the intention of being shunted and keep a close eye behind after making sure all is clear ahead, touch wood only caused brown trousers and no couplings to date!

Dont take it to heart, some members have difficulty accepting that others may occasionally see things differently from them and react innapropriately.

And all mechanics will do whatever is the easiest and quickest for them, I am fortunate that when faced with a relatively familiar job I still have the confidence to just throw myself at it and sort out the details on the hoof relying on the manual or more likely these days Youtube only when I screw up, it would appear that in this instance I saved myself time and grief by not following recieved wisdom. My vehicle details are in my profile, yours are not, is there any significant difference between them? I watched Willdogs video and those two clowns making the video struggled so much to remove the strut that they had to do it as a re-enactment, I didn't struggle and there was just one of me, I did not disconnect the anti-rollbar link, nor the bottom swivel and more importantly left the top mount bolted in place, you need that to remain fixed while you lever the hub down. If you really need a little bit extra you could compress the spring in situ but I definitely didn't.

If you have an estate and use it all the time for carrying various loads then the roller cover is far more flexible, if you dont and use the vehicle as a saloon car then I can see the attraction of the solid parcel shelf and many people use it for storing stuff on top of, having been in a roll over where the passenger recieved a Mini clutch puller set on the back of the head I would never store anything on a parcel shelf. Easy enough to remove? - Yes but to bring something home you either have to remove it before leaving or you are screwed, in the Yeti its really an encombrance, carrying anything that requires its removal for height will prevent you from carrying it as well, the roller cover will always fit lengthwise in the tiniest of gaps. What is the "net parcel shelf"? Finally I find o the Yeti the solid shelf even when lifted by the tailgate shades the boot compartment from daylight and with the single candle for illumination and my eyesight I just cannot see what is in there, it also prevents me from leaning over to lift stuff out. The illumination issue I resolved with LED linklights both sides and above the shelf on the C pillars.

What was the run out taxi spec spec? Had I known of them I may well have been tempted, I was looking for the latest MK1 I could find and thought at that time the couple of 2004 models that I viewed were the last, I eventually bought a MK2 and whilst I liked some of the features it has definitely lost the Mojo of the MK1.

Please moderators, is there any way to close a thread that one has started?

The solid parcel shelf is the one thing that I hate about my Yeti, its begging for a roller cover, you can buy them from Ali-Express but really need the corresponding rear side trim panels made for the Asian market. What is this current 'net' parcel shelf that you speak of? - My car is a 2015 F/L model. In fact knowing that the boot width is pretty much identical to the Octavia MK1 & 2 (I used an Octavia variofloor) I might have a go at getting the one from my Octavia to fit and buying another to replace it.

The old one hasn't even met with its accident yet

You need May 4th to be with you You have to make it have it, the last couple of inches of downward movement need faith & belief and preferably a very long lever to strand on, the struts will come out, in fact getting them back in is the tricky part because the hub carrier is flopping around and you need to get it correctly aligned with both hands while levering the hub carrier down with your knee or foot. A helper would make it easier but I never have one. I simply use a narrow cold chisel to spread the clamp.

I did the job about 18 months ago, maybe my memory does not serve me well but I'm sure that I left the driveshaft and lower swivel attached (not sure about the track rod end) & levered down the hub carrier to disengage the strut. It was tight and would have certainly been easier doing it the way of the video but i am pretty sure that's how I did it, exactly the same manner as all previous FWD cars with similar suspension.

You do not need to remove that nut for the work you intend to do.

The two other wires aside from 12v and ground are almost certainly the canbus (are they a twisted pair?) and it will be the coded commands from that which will make the controller switch in and out the relays and vary the PWM assuming that its working. A VCDS scan should tell you if its communicating and has any fault codes registered. Editted, the above is not correct, any switches that are part of the Climatronic assembly or are connected directly to it should also make things happen.

Never had to do it on previous cars and to date have never started a car in gear and lurched forward, came close a few times but my reactions are quick & I immediately stamp on the clutch without even needing to stop cranking. This "safety feature" on the Yeti is driving me mad and I have not become used to it as people said, its making me all the more frustrated, I am a wash n go type person and cant be doing with pre-flight checklists!! Can it be disabled using VCDS? Given that the vehicle knows when it's in gear and even which gear is selected (dont know about reverse) I can't actually see the need for making me declutch to start the engine when it knows the vehicle is in neutral. Am I the only one who cant adapt to the new order? Anyone found a way of disabling or over-riding the interlock?

I did the first long and fast journey with the Yeti bringing it over to France, after eventually switching off the music towards the end of the journey I heard noise from the back that was not present before, having just changed the Haldex oil & cleaned the filter I wondered whether I had perhaps replaced the diff oil by mistake? It came in above 60 MPH & it sounded like the LHR wheel bearing but did not change tone when loaded/unloaded by slaloming so decided it must be the diff bearings, still present if I declutched but while coasting at speed I could make it come and go by revving to 2.5K and then letting the revs drop as if a resonance from a bad engine mount was travelling down the propshaft. I had pushed & pulled the outer steel harmonic balancer when servicing the Haldex & the rubber seemed OK. Today with the car unloaded and the seats back in the normal position it was quieter, then when I put the sealing flap I made as part of the home made variofloor back in the correct position to effectively seal off the load compartment I can no longer hear the whine. So are they simply badly insulated, do you hear transmission noise on your 4x4 when the seats are lifted and/or the parcel shelf removed? It does indeed sound like the diff noise from a RWD panel van or my Caterham, both my Octavias have been well insulated with perhaps just a hint of wind noise from the rear hatch when the seats folded forward.

My rear wiper has recently been groaning and giving up after a couple of sweeps but always seemed to come back to life later. I had seen a thread with photos of where the cover was removed and the gears etc greased but cant find it now. Mine was a bit dry but after an initial greasing and refit then a more thorough strip down and lube the motor was still labouring when the blade was in contact with the screen. I bit the bullet and removed the motor assembly and worm drive then removed the rear cap and lubricated both ends of the motor shaft, reassembled, bench tested with 12v direct to motor and its as good as new now. In hindsight the motor probably does not need to be removed, the shaft behind the worm drive can be lubricated from inside the gear case leaving just the motor end cap to be removed, unusually the brushes are at the output end so its safe to remove the end cover and nothing will go flying about, the bushing was dry and causing the seizing, another possibility is grease getting onto the circular tracks for the self park mecahnism creating resistance so its worth cleaning them up and the 2 contacts. The circuit board can be removed allowing direct access to the motor terminals for bench testing. Had I not wasted time on the first 2 removals & refits then the whole job would only have taken 20-30 minutes, definitely worth doing before shelling out £80 or so for a new or second hand motor.

Can I retrofit cruise control to my 2015 2.0 TDi Yeti using this and coding with VCDS? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Skoda-Octavia-Yeti-Indicator-Stalk-Switch-With-Cruise-Control-5K0953513M-New/183714477061?fits=Car+Make%3ASkoda|Model%3AYeti|Cars+Year%3A2016&epid=7029972553&hash=item2ac63c7405:g:99oAAOSwCV5cfUQ1 Its a poverty spec model but has the MFD and steering wheel controls. Secondary question, do all Yetis including the base model have steering wheel controls and Bluetooth fitted as standard?

The question is for my Yeti but I think could equally be asked for other vehicles with the later cheaper cardboard type battery covers. I fitted a larger 096 battery in place of the 027 (I think) and the flimsy cover no longer goes all the way around the battery, on my Octavia that has the plastic battery case and cover the larger battery fitted in but was a tight squeeze. I would like either to use the Octavia cover & case before I sell it or simply buy a new one like this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000350318451.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.521b4c4dA3veHT My question is did the battery trays remain unchanged when they swapped to the later cheaper battery covers and will the earlier ones like the above fit on the battery tray of a vehicle with a cardboard cover?