J.R.

The good news is that its probably the bolts that have come loose from what you have described. The bad news is that if I am right they will be wearing a hole through your transmission casing if you continue driving. I suggest that you jack the car up and remove the undertray to check visually before driving any further

Does it have a LSD?

2K2 and 4K7 ohms EOL and shunt resistors n'est ce pas? I still have hundreds of them! Or maybe those were the values of one intruder alarm manufacturer who used the same system, twas a long time ago!

I completely understand your frustration and desire, I think its a very worthwhile modification. It's not you that is in need of restraints!!!

Diff oil is for life or until a numpty like me drains it thinking he was draining the Haldex Fluid. The original 75w90 that I mistakenly drained came out looking and smelling like brand new after 79K miles, that was my first clue that I had made a mistake. The rear diff is freewheeling pretty much all the time, power is mostly transmitted in straight line conditions and the planet gears are not revolving and transmitting zero torque, even if it had spent its life as a drift car the torque transmitted is only 50%.

How does someone select inappropriate gears or select gears inappropriately with the gear lever? What does that have to do with the other elbow? How should ones body coordinate with a medical practitioner? The suggestion of physical restraints for arms and head, was that intended for another forum 😁

It will be something daft like 75kg but that is for the vehicle in motion, braking, accelerating, cornering etc and is really concerned with the changes to the vehicles centre of gravity affecting the stability in extreme manœuvres. The roof rails will take a static load many times the rating without any problem, a tent with solid floor, mattress and two people will be no problem at all.

Offset weight. I think you may have meant to write "maximum axle load" and not "maximum tyre load".

Take it apart to make sure you are not being given the run around. It will be clear to see if the cover has already been removed.

The standby consumption after the settling down period would normally be between 15 and 25 ma, if the battery is good that would give you more than enough autonomy. That is not taking into account accessories like dashcams etc or chargers left plugged in, trackers etc etc. My cars autonomy is reduced by 40% because of the towing relay, it is activated when car locked up because one might have left the vehicle and trailer with the parking lights on for safety, it takes far less than previous generations but is still significant enough that I cant be sure my battery would start the car after a month, I have fitted a switch to disable it for that purpose which I seem to knock on a regular basis loading stuff disabling the towing lights.

ECU is tucked up under the windscreen behind the plenum bulkhead, the only way you could spray it would be deliberately after removing the panel. They are nearly all IP68 rated meaning they will survive a 30 minute submersion at 1.5m depth and that includes the connector pins. I have had several apart and never seen any moisture ingress although one had degradation of the nickel plating on the inside of the lid caused I believe from chemicals evaporating from the components. I pulled one out of the charred remains of a Ford Galaxy, it was blackened and looked like it had been deep fat fried then thrown into a bonfire, the connector was a molten blob with a bundle of fused together copper strands coming out where the wiring loom had been cut to remove it. I carefully cut into the blob of plastic and managed to jack out the melted outer connector leaving the inner one intact, I never for one minute thought that it could function but gave it a try, the engine started immediately, I had the software flashed to the latest version and drove that vehicle for 4 years after doing the repairs before selling it on. @Johnboyab Did you see the internal corrosion with your own eyes?

Spot on, I recall explaining the same thing on a thread where someone was complaining to Bosch about brake pads bought from ECP, he was convinced that they actually made them and expected far better of them, in the end he realised that all his conversations with ECP and Bosch were with bots!!!

It sounds like the moulded polystyrene packing piece, usually very expensive for what it is which is identical to the packing you get on a boxed electrical item like a computer monitor or laptop, it was such a silly price for the Yeti I decided to glue together the pieces of the old one. They do a tremendous job though, mine had transferred enough impact to bend the crash bar, set off the airbags yet the bumper was only scuffed and remains on the vehicle to this day. It would make sense to offer it with the crash beam and I can see why they describe it as pedestrian protection, the vehicle would look no different without it but would do a lot more corporal damage in a collision, also do more damage to the painted bumper.

There was another possibility to the mind boggling, its not relevant now you have found the fault but it may help for a future enigma. It was a normally closed circuit like most safety circuits, its one that is at risk of someone disabling it in exactly the same way as you had, to prevent this the manufacturer could have fitted an end if line resistor EOL in the brake pad instead of the (zero resistance) loop of wire, the controller would be looking for a volt drop commensurate with the say 2.2k ohm resistor to decide the system is normal, the warning light would be illuminated for either of 2 conditions, if it goes open circuit through pad wear or closed circuit through it being shunted as you have. Airbags etc usually have this type of security. It is/was also common on Fire Alarm and Burglar Alarm systems.

2 pair = 4 wires.

I have not seen a separate sensor, simply a wire loop embedded in the brake pad during manufacture, I'm pleased that my current poverty spec vehicle is devoid of this sort of nonsense.

100% Drivers side door control module receives inputs from all of these and has outputs controlling the door locks, electric windows, door mirrors, fuel filler flap etc. Usual fault is fractured wires in the door (hinge) loop.

If two then its probably a normally closed circuit where the circuit is broken when the pad wears low and wears through the cable. What you describe sounds more like a 2 pair system, one pair normally closed to make sure the connector is in place and the pads have the sensor and a normally open pair buried in the pad which will make a closed contact when the pad wears and the current runs through the disc between them.

I bet you will see very well from the first operated eye within 24/48 hours, far better than before, with 2 equal eyes one suddenly having correction can throw things out in the brain which takes a while to re-adapt but if the other is bad the operated on eye will already be the dominant one so you should have no problems unless they are doing the bad one first. I speak from experience. How long after the first procedure before your follow up appointment? Are you having a single vision or multi-focal lens implant?

Please define are you referring to as "pedestrian protection" In my experience there is the plastic body colour outer bumper (an oxymoron if ever there was one!), an expanded polystyrene filler section and the crash beam or bumper reinforcement frame as I think you are calling it. All have different part numbers, none come bundled with the other parts.

More than enough, probably 28 minutes too much and not too green but better to let the engine warm through after starting. Are you having both eyes done at the same time? They normally do one and then the other a couple of weeks later. I only have vision in one eye and took a risk having cataract surgery, I was safe to drive the next day as have others I know but I waited the 2 days (weekend) before seeing the opthalmo on the Monday for the all clear, I suspect the problem is not being able to see the UK opthalmo for a very long time after the op, it really should be within a couple of days.

I have a spare key hidden inside the car. I can hear from here the gears turning in your brains thinking "thats pointless" but there is method in my madness. The obvious place to stash a spare key is outside of the cabin, behind bumper, under cill, on fuel tank etc but thats a big security risk as a thief could find it and steal the car. So I have a dumb non chipped key stashed outside which will open the door but not start the vehicle, the proper chipped key is hidden elsewhere in the cabin.

Fault is more likely to be caused by fractured wiring in the door loop than poor connections. Sounds 100% like that.

Well your words are at odds with that. Absolute rubbish! The first 4 you list are pronounced absolutely correctly in English as are all of the phrases that you have italicised in your mocking posting. Reconnaissance, lingerie, connaisseur, commandant,