J.R.

Start with pulling a string line from front to rear tyres with the steering wheel central, see if you can see any difference side to side, the rear track will probably be wider than the front which complicates things but you will likely be able to see if the rear axle is crabbing compared to the front or if one wheel is misaligned. More accurate measurements are needed to realign the rear subframe (or front following a gearbox out job) I made up a fixture to hold a laser level parallel to the wheel rim and used a cardboard target at wheel height on the B post, held in place by shutting the door on it, this works very very well and you can see significant movement when making very fine adjustments. Others prefer to throw money at 4 wheel alignment but many of the operators have not the slightest clue of the basic principles, its just a money spinner for them especially when they offer "free checks" when fitting tyres or servicing.

Google does not have a BS filter.

If they come out without snapping then yes. With experience you can tell whether they are going to remove or snap before applying too much rotational force and with patience and experience again you can wiggle them just enough so that a penetrating agent can work its way through the joint without fracturing them. The only way you gain that experience is having broken a few 😢

Your ignition problem sounds like a wiring mishmash with a ballast resistor ignition coil, running a low impedance 7.5 volt (12v when cranking) coil on a permanent 12v supply, I have some recollection of you posting before about this but could be wrong. Could also be running a 12v coil on a permanent 7.5v ballasted supply. Editted, apologies I misread your posting thinking the C word was for "coil" and not "carburettor"

If you are lucky the impact will have moved the subframe on its mountings assuming it has the independant rear suspension set up.

Worn bearings or warped discs will simply cause piston knock back on an otherwise non faulty braking system, this would manifest as long pedal travel when braking after travelling a distance. Noticeable heat compared to the other side is either uncommanded brake actuation or a sticking caliper piston, you cannot rule that out as you did not try pushing the car straight away when you stopped or with the engine running. It sounds like a wheel speed sensor issue, you will need VCDS or a similar level diagnostic tool to interrogate the ABS controller to investigate any further, as it has yet to show a MIL light on the dashboard it will probably need live data running to compare all reported wheel speeds. Otherwise wait for the MIL light then change that wheel speed sensor or do it as a pre-emptive measure, they cost less than €2 from China and work just fine regardless of what people say.

I suppose I have an advantage having lived with the problem for 6 months while replacing all the easier to replace components, perfecting my rapid side of the road bleeding technique culminating in replacing the DMF, clutch and concentric slave cylinder myself and being able to carry out a forensic analysis on the latter to determine the failure mode. I would not have needed to do the above were the reason blindingly obvious to me, indeed to my knowledge I am the only person to date to have found the actual reason for failure. I appreciate that you are having a rant and empathise with the need to do so but could you please explain what you consider to be the blindingly obvious poor materials and poor design, and why the repairs are needlessly major and needlessly expensive? How you consider could I have done the job in a cheaper and less labour intensive manner? Finally on what basis do you intend to pursue a legal action? I know the answers to the above will be of help to many people, the instances pf people reporting this problem are becoming more and more frequent as the vehicles age and continue to be produced.

Speculation on my part but it seems to make sense. The bolts come loose because engine oil leaks from the actuator which either softens any thread sealant if it was used or more likely reduces the frictional grip between the flange and pulley allowing it to fret backwards and forwards due to the clearance holes for the bolts, there is no drive dowel and they are not fitted bolts (possibly for timing set up), I am assuming its a clamped flange and not a cover plate, without seeing it I may be wrong. Fitting new bolts does not stop the underlying problem of the oil leak which if severe will prevent the actuator from adjusting the valve timing or maybe its simply the flange having worked loose immediately. It is telling that VAG say the actuator has to be replaced, oil and timing belts are not a good combination, I would remove the belt cover and look again, if there are any signs of fresh oil then replace the actuator ASAP.

Rear removal and replacement is very simpl eif you make one cut which is held together rigidly when the new disc is bolted up, the old ones you can usually tear off with your bare hands. @Danoid They will be far gone if visibly "pretty rusty" likely only the original paint holding them together, you would have to remove them to spray paint and I have always paid less than €10 for new ones, until the Dutch company Action opened shops in France it would have cost me more for an Aerosol paint than the brake backplates!!!

I doubt that is a polysulphide screen bonding compound, flowable sealants have their uses on older traditional wrap round windscreen sealing rubbers that seal against the glass on on part of the cross section and the bodywork flange on the other but I doubt will be effective with a broken down bonded screen joint, that said the correct compound should be used after removing the screen, removing all traces of the old sealant from the screen and bodywork, cleaning and preparing the joint, putting it around the existing leaking compound is like using a band aid but it does stick like **** to a blanket if the area is properly prepared. A flowable sealant if they even do what is said on the tin will be trying to seal a capilliary gap full of road dirt and damp.

Immobiliser, try with the 2nd key.

Yes £50 did not sound right to me judging by what by how much they were ripping people off for a cloned key a few years back.

Delivery of an item a heavy, large and vulnerable like a seat was already out of the question pre Brexit, much more so now, I realise how simple it would be in the UK and were I still travelling back and forth I would have done exactly as you suggest and not raised the topic but those days are behind me now. I have had zero income since Covid so am not going to throw money at this, if I can swop the seat bolsters side to side it will last the remaining life of the vehicle, if in 10 years time the 2nd front seat wears through then with the car at that age and myself a decade older I probably wont car about using seat covers but for at present I absolutely despise the things. Thanks for your input, if anybody has info regarding swopping the upholstered parts side to side please comment.

Not an option in this country, and if it were they would want more than the vehicle cost.

Can you not slacken the bolt and push in the sliding sleeve to disengage from it to remove the caliper? From the photo I am fairly sure that I have worked on them and thats what I do if there is an obstruction. Granted if the new pads come with new bolts and you want to use them.................................................

You do not need to remove the caliper slide bolt to service the brakes. I appreciate that were you to want to remove it you would have to remove the brake hose banjo fitting but unless I have misunderstood, what is your problem?

You are 3 years too late! The noise was (IMO) the crankshaft driven vacuum pump.

Thats how I decided to do mine when doing the job, no point in trying to disconnect one section from another disturbing mounts and other joints when the sleeve was uncorroded.

Wrong! The passenger seat has a pressure pad which if working correctly will register the presence of a passenger and sound the bong if their seatbelt is not buckled, when functioning correctly it will trigger when a bag of shopping is placed on the seat but not a lighter half filled one, the silver foil inside can delaminate and cause false presence detection and hence the seatbelt alarm.

Other than working from a ramp or a pit you simply cannot get enough leverage or swing to break the torque resistance of those fasteners, those who say you can do it by jacking against the weight of the car are armchair mechanics living in La-La Land, you absolutely need to swing downwards and if the wheel is not on the ground or ramp they likely still will not release. A good make 18v or higher 1/2" drive impact wrench with a high AH battery pack might do the job but they are not all equal, some just make a lot of noise and vibration to little effect, same can be said of air impact wrenches, in general I find a good battery one (Bosch, Dewalt etc) will outperform an air one.

💡💡💡

It will be more than one fault, drivers door loop very probable, airbag connector under the driver or passenger seat likely if you carry adult rear passengers especially teenagers.

Wise guy and now expert, you sure know how to flatter someone. If you need someone to help you with your English I am not the person. I have already explained the reason for the pedal vibration and the remedy which the OP has had some success with, its a shame they have not continued and are going to spend money needlessly but that is their choice.

Do the VRS brakes share the same bathwater as the clutch like other models? Might be worth looking for leakage from the slave cylinder and bleed block AKA Clutch Peak Torque Limiter, it will be from the bottom of the bellhousing if a concentric clutch.