J.R.

Less than 3 months (probably) so thank them for their diagnosis and confirmation that the vehicle is faulty and then tell them where they can stick their sharing of the cost.

When? From the dealer who is offering to pay half? £400 does not sound enough for a new clutch from a main dealer, in my world it is more than enough but not for the world of paying others. It does sound like clutch drag that should be resolved by clutch replacement, that is all 3 clutch components, pressure plate, driven plate and release bearing.

@Ttaskmaster The Mikaël was pronounced correctly, it was me that made the mistake in the spelling trying to hard to copy/paste the two dots over the "e", it was the Shoomarrer that I never could understand. As for the rest of your projections regarding people being pretentious etc those are very bold and sweeping statements, I prefer not to judge people and am pleased when they make the effort to pronounce foreign words and foreign peoples names correctly, something I have always tried my upmost to do despite frequent accusations of being pretentious which says far more about the accuser than myself. Generally most French words that have been adopted in English are pronounced in the correct manner.

That image shows the scuttle area tucked underneath the windscreen where the ECU is on many of our vehicles, you can see the windscreen wiper spindle, the bellcrank and linkage arm on the right.

It is made to a very reasonable quality, manufacturers dont want failures within the warranty or a typical 3 year lease period, it will be made for the lowest possible price and cost them delivered to the production line less than two percent of the price they put on it as a replacement part when . In their defence the supply chain logistics and inventory costs of spare parts are far higher than the same parts fitted on the line when those costs are effectively zero especially inventory.

What country are you in? Is the vehicle left or RH drive? There are major differences between mirrors for the same side of the vehicle dependant on whether the steering wheel is beside it or not. Drivers side would have a blind spot mirror. A cheap plain mirror as you have bought will function just fine giving you the time to source the correct auto-dimming one which always were hugely expensive. Of course they cost the manufacturers a cup of tea and a bun, its just a way to con buyers of new vehicles to opt for an accessory pack including nonsense that they didnt want and also to screw owners over when they get broken.

Ebay. TPS only sell genuine VAG parts supplied by VAG.

Things break, that is life! The MTBF of a digital dashboard may well be predicted to be 20 years but no-one will know for 20 years whether that was accurate, even if it was 50% will have failed by that time, a significant amount of those will have failed within a very short time of manufacture and be replaced under warranty. This is a five year old vehicle for Dogs sake! Many of us remember that you had to really look after a vehicle and spend lots on repairs and maintenance for a vehicle to go beyond 5 years and not be scrapped. The mid to late 90's and early 2000's were the sweet spot for longevity, vehicles produced then would often last more than 10 years without any attention, people would scrap a vehicle at 10 years old when it needed its first ever repair, an exhaust replacement, the 2009 scrappage scheme resulted in hundreds of thousands of excellent vehicles being destroyed that would have gone on for another couple of decades. Vehicles made since then have not had nearly the same build quality or rust prevention and as each year goes on gain more fragile electronic modules for which the manufacturers deliberately place a stupid price on like this Digital Cockpit nonsense, make no mistake each new "desirable" flaky feature like this costs them significantly less than its predecessor, their aim is for you to sell on the vehicle once it is beyond warranty and purchase a new one from them, this happens by default where vehicles are lease or PIP purchased or whatever that nonsense is called. I knew that moving from a 2006 EU4 Octavia to a 2015 EU5 Yeti I would leave myself wide open to the extortion, its an educated choice that I made and I accept the consequences, I would deserve to be laughed at if I started whinging and invoking the Consumer Rights Act.

It sounded implausible to me but what do I know! Vertical integration would be an act of stupidity to a company like ECP at the opposite end of the supply chain.

Nor would "the speedo was working and indicating below the speed limit honest guvnor!" be any defence. I can understand someone not wanting to drive a car without knowing what speed they are going but the chances of being stopped and prosecuted for a non working speedo are next to nothing except for a complete wreck lacking lights, indicators, bumpers, seat belts etc, then they might just throw it in for good measure. Having had a bike engined road/race car with a wildly inaccurate speedo its surprising just how accurately an involved driver can estimate their speed without instrumentation.

I doubt it, its purpose is to seal the door and not resist rubbing from the driver exiting the vehicle. Do you by any chance share the driving with your partner? With the seat in the correct position for the height of the driver you would not normally rub against the door seal and certainly not in both places, when my (now ex) UK neighbour asked me to drive or move his car I would brain myself every time on the A pillar, his wife is a PORG with the equivalent of Short Man Syndrome so he has to push the seal all the way forward and raise it fully whenever he gets out of the vehicle even during a trip to the shops when he will be driving there and back!

I am assuming that you are referring to the Aircon condensor as I doubt your vehicle has a Kettering ignition system. I bought an OE Nissens one for £30 something, a fraction of the cost of the Skoda part via TPS, as they supply the OE it may not be any better but will not be worse.

Surely the fault is in the Anglicising of the foreign names? It should not be viewed as pretentious to refer to a company with the correct prononciation, if it were a foreign friend or neighbour the majority would try to pronounce their name correctly and discreetly correct others when they get it wrong. My country has got to be one of the worst anyone named Ian might as well give up putting people right on day 1, after 19 years I still cannot get anyone to spell correctly my very simple family name, one that they would have learned in infants school English lessons unless I deliberately mispronounce it which I refuse to do, and that is also with spelling it out letter by letter with the correct French prononciation. They also rename foreign towns and cities and would ask you the way to Londres, édimbourg, Douvres etc or ask for the River Tammys, mind you the UK has misnamed Dunkerque as Dunkirk, there are probably others, at least the prononciation is almost identical. The one that really shocked and confused me and made me feel it was very disrespectful was pronouncing Michael Schumacher, I get they would say Michaël but Shoomarrer? WTF is that about 😬 they spell it correctly but pronounce it differently, I don't think the Germans pronounce it that way, Lee will know. Edit, the River Thames is correctly spelled in French but pronounced in the native manner. I had lived not far from Wrotham for 30 years and never knew the correct very odd prononciation till a friend who lived at West Kingsdown was giving me directions on the A20 - Rootem! Thats a weird one!

No, enfin yes if you go to the main stealer, the pulley assemblies alone are available on the aftermarket.

Agreed however the figures for both soot and oil ash are fantasy, created by an algorithm and can be reset to zero using VCDS without even touching the DPF let alone cleaning or replacing it. Differential pressure is an actual measured reading and the zero reading of the Op's is implausible

One way roller ramp bearing is foutu.

Given the TPI then doubtless it is an oil system noise in these cases but there is also a starter motor peculiarity which would make the exact same noise and listening to the videos I am convinced it is the armature shaft over-revving for an instant. With an old school inertia starter as soon as the engine fires the pinion is thrown out of mesh by the helix (unless gummed up) the engine cannot over-rev the starter. With a pre-engaged starter the engine would over-rev the starter in the finite time it takes the driver to release the ignition key or button after hearing the engine fire so the pinion has an internal one way roller ramp sprag clutch to prevent the engine driving the starter motor, if these jam up then the starter motor will make the exact noise heard in the time taken to release the key which disengages the pinion via the solenoid. Modern vehicles detect the engine start via the ECU monitoring the crankshaft sensor, the ECU removes the voltage from the starter motor as soon as the engine fires up, this is an advantage for deaf people or disconnected drivers, as a consequential cost saving the starter motors on these engines do not have the one way clutch, a cost saving and also the removal of a component that can fail in service. There is still a finite time before the ECU can remove the voltage to the starter solenoid but its milliseconds, during that time the engine will over-rev the starter motor and then the commutator shaft will gradually slow down, you can hear this precisely in the decaying pitch of the sound in the videos, also the one of the car on the transporter bed spins much faster because the engine was started with an open throttle and revved up quickly. These noises are simply features of modern vehicles be they from the oil system, the vacuum pump or starter motor.

The master cylinder cannot cause the problem. It will 100% be a gearbox out job to replace a concentric slave cylinder fitted to all of the 6 speed gearboxes (to my knowledge, happy to learn otherwise) and many of the 5 speed boxes, the slave cylinder does not fail due to the release bearing breaking up, it does not actually fail at all and will work just fine when the air is bled out of the system however the air is drawn in via the O ring joing between the casing extension and the feed pipe of the cylinder, movement through vibration and lack of restraint wear the O ring such that it will seal under pressure but draw in air under a partial vacuum, the exact condition created when someone lifts up the stuck clutch pedal.

They would have a flat battery if it didn't!

It will be the left hand (smaller) differential output shaft bearing, its a standard bearing but apparently the oil seal is unobtanium, I think I may have found a source but the description makes me wonder if it could be the pinion oil seal or the one for the RH shaft, here is a link. https://www.trodo.fr/bague-d-etancheite-differentiel-corteco-01033862b The job is relatively simple if you are old school and have rebuilt differentials before, easy in fact as its unlikely you will need to play around with the CW&P meshing or pinion pre-load but after decades of manuals saying that gearboxes and final drives cannot be repaired without special tooling and expertise most have swallowed it and there are only a few people worldwide who will work on these units despite their ridiculous replacement cost. I will replace mine within the next few years, its noisy after my mistake draining the wrong oil but has remained constant, if I knew the oil seal was correct I would bite the bullet and do the job to benefit earlier from a quieter ride?

The cover being the round plastic disc? Its only a dust cover for the one way sprag clutch and there should be no oil present or even grease to leak, the rotor bearings are sealed and inside the alternator housing. I would look carefully to see where the oil is coming from, if the auxiliary drive belt gets contaminated it can shred and rip apart the cam belt cover which in turn shreds the timing belt wrecking the engine. Any oil leak in that area should not be ignored and I dont believe that yours is from the alternator pulley.

Yes, thats probably about right mileage wise for the life of the brushes. Did you get back finally?

The size and packaging of a Touran would suit me down to the ground apart from a few deal breakers. No Vario-floor, but thats a direct result of the superb packaging. No spare wheel - ditto. There is not a 4WD variant, that would not have been a requirement until buying my current Yeti as a project not knowing it was 4WD and not knowing how much it would be used now I have moved regions. My MK1 Octavia I got at 3 years old in 2005 from my chauffeur friend with massive mileage (188k) he bought a 2.0Tdi DSG Touran and I was lined up to take that off his hands in 2008 but it had been nowhere near as reliable as the Octavia. Most of his problems were through relying on the incompetent main selling dealer for repairs and needing the vehicles urgently for work, 15 years of experience and knowledge later a Touran would not be a problem to me.

Polar inertia (mass not relevant) of gearbox first motion/input shaft is de minimis compared to the flywheel, crankshaft and harmonic damper and the inertial resistance of those are de minimis compared to the compression resistance of the VAG diesel engines I have driven since the 90's but I appreciate every little helps. Every vehicle I have driven since the 80's have had synchromesh on reverse gear, my current Yeti gearbox has twin synchros for each gear. Aside from convenience I hate having to sit on the drivers seat wearing soiled overalls to start the engine when working on the car. Please tell me how to disable safelock as it has resisted all my efforts to date even via VCDS, I think it is actually off although even after reading the manual I am still confused as to what it actually does but nonetheless the nanny warning still comes up every time. I agree about the gear indicator, my single eye is usually on the road, if I glance at a guage I dont see the indicator but I think it may flash or perhaps its more apparent when prompting for a change of gear where it show both numbers, its frequently completely at odds with reality of the engine load commanding either up or downshift from the optimal according to its whims, it is easy to ignore unlike the other gripes. If I could find a low mileage well kept example of an EU3 MK1 Octavia estate from 99-2003 I would buy it in a heartbeat and it would be far more reliable and economic than my 2015 EU5 vehicle, luckily I dodged the bullet of EU6 by a couple of months.

Commutator brushes worn/stuck or intermittent connection problem. How many miles has it done?