J.R.

Its a short circuit of the heating element, usually happens when wires cross each other and rub through the insulation. There was no fire risk as all the materials are self extinguishing, your own clothing may be the exception. Being 12v there is no electrocution risk unlike my shonky Ali-Express electric underblanket which did the same thing, I could feel a concentration of heat like an itch under my shoulder blade which made me move around a bit, I am sleeping in an exposed and inadequately heated caravan in winter so use the blanket to preheat the bed then reheat me after getting undressed, especially my frozen feet, then I turn it off for the night. The next morning in the bathroom I could see a burn scab on my back, I checked the bed and the sheet and mattress protector were both burned through as was the covering of the blanket and the insulation of the crossed wires, the itch was a bit more than an itch it turned out!

Current carrying capacity and the risk of igniting something conductive and combustible (wire wool for example) might be the rationale but if both types are available in all ratings then ignore my ramblings!

Thats a pretty lame appeal for people to start reading your comments once again, if you asked advice of the network of people who feed you the unconfirmed reports they would surely come up with something catchier? Actually recalling and acknowledging/owning what they have previously said gives someone plausibility. Joking aside I realise the "always" negates my response 👍

Ejector seat!

I'm sure you are correct about the physical brake connection but equally would not be surprised if some like Tesla dont have the failsafe. In both cases modern drivers are usually completely at a loss when they lose servo assistance and genuinely believe that they dont have brakes or steering, how many times have I read people saying just that when their engine has died, its sad to think that some will only think to use their phone rather than their physical capabilities and some have even died while doing so. Braking without servo assistance against a runaway engine on wide open throttle (which would render an old school servo on a petrol engine inoperative anyway) requires almost superhuman effort, I remember seeing an American test film for GM I think where the tester managed it but the force required was colossal, anything but a full hearted do or die stomp on the pedal at speed against full engine power would glaze the pads and probably make it impossible. And if the vehicle is an EV with their often stupidly high torque outut then an electronic failure could be the perfect storm, full unrestrained motor winding melting traction current against unassisted manual braking from a terrified driver. There really should be a kill switch, a proper one where you pull a huge handle that disconnects all power, also the vehecle would have to have manual brakes and steering albeit unassisted. One of the reasons that I choose to remain with manual transmission is having a clutch for if the worse happens.

I would need to look at it and where it fits in the assembly to be sure, you will have to trust your judgement.

Good on you fella! 👍

The voltage you have measured is typical for the BMS (under) charging regime especially when the battery has aged slightly. If you disconnect the shunt resistor it will revert to a standard charging profile, you will lose the start/stop facility (win-win in my book!) and could well get another 7 years life out of the battery, it will start the car without giving you all these warnings, when it becomes sluggish and reluctant to do so that will be the time to think about replacing it. Just how things always used to be................................

I dont expect any more of any business in this day and age, TBH I was really surprised you got any response, if it came promptly, sounded very encouraging, upbeat and positive but in the end left you feeling as you do I would be 99% sure you have been dealing with an AI bot Been there got the T-shirt I'm sorry to say.

Alternator one way clutch causes squawking and squealing usually, the tell-tale sign is the auxiliary drive belt flapping back and forth on the longest unsupported length. 1000 rpm idle can be a DPF regen or during the warm up period in very cold weather.

Why do you think it is a pressure sensor? My assumption would be an inertia or impact sensor. Are they not anti-vibration mounts?

Its nice to see the insurers actually setting their rates according to the risk for a change. It was the same in the 80's with Sierra Cossies etc. I was reflecting today that my car insurance cost more than probably my first 20 cars cost when I was young. 20 in very short order because I was buying and selling and trading up like crazy, if only I had wised up and done the same with property 20 years before I eventually did in a very slow and limited way.

You got me! It's got worse recently because having moved to Dordogneshire I do get to speak and hear English now but with other Franglais speakers.

Because the battery will not be overcharged using the standard alternator charging profile, in fact the start stop profile produces a higher voltage at times which if it were constant would definitely damage the battery. Pretty much all modern batteries are the sealed gallery type and wont leak even if turned upside down, being the curious child I am I have cut my way through an old one no longer fit for service and found that the electrolyte levels had not depleted. The vehicle defaults to the standard alternator charging profile whenever the start stop is disabled for any of the factors. I have changed the wording from rubbish to nonsense.

Absolute nonsense, - potentially 🤣

@Bap33 I don't think it was a faux ami, I believe the meaning is the same in English but others will confirm, its been 20 years since I have been in an English speaking environment, I probably did not use the word autonomy then but am pretty sure I would have understood it when spoken to me. Update, - Google (UK) says I am wrong!

Does autonomy really mean nothing to a native English speaker? I unwittingly use it all the time and nobody has yet asked me what I meant to say unlike a lot of my Franglais. After my 1040 km autoroute journey (further than I had thought) and the 10 litre splash and dash I refilled yesterday after driving probably another 40 miles with the autonomy display showing zero miles remaining, I squeezed in every last CC as always and got in 57.3 litres meaning there was half a gallon or so remaining, about what I expected. What wasn't expected was the range showing as 700 miles when the last 2 tankfulls used on the autoroutes took the vehicle 525 and 510 miles respectively and that was with driving an additional 50 miles or more with the guage indicating empty and zero miles remaining displayed. The only thing that can be trusted is the trip meter, my knowledge of the vehicles consumption under different conditions and mental calculations, but that relies on the engine always running at the same efficiency, some faults can use more fuel without affecting the drive but the modern electronics are more likely to show a fault code than my 95 Galaxy that caught me out when it reverted to a default non lambda controlled map when the oxygen sensor wire became cut through, it drove no different other than having less autonomy per tank of fuel right up to the day the catastrophic convertor blocked

Does the vehicle run or not? That is important information that you have omitted.

Are you sure that you should have? From memory my 2006 diesel would pulse the fuel pump briefly when the ignition was turned on, other vehicles do it when the drivers door is opened, yours may be either but I dont thnk the pump will be activated with just the ignition on, the engine needs to be cranking or running. When I fitted a new fuel filter I had to repeatedly switch the ignition to get the pump to purge the system.

Good luck then! 🤣

I'm waiting for the question before suggesting an answer.

The diesel models definitely do what you describe during a DPF regeneration, does your vehicle have a GPF? I would just ignore it, had it been incorrect from the get go would you hve paid for a diagnostic or just taken no notice of it?

= I am beyond my skillset now, I really dont know what the problem is, I want to see the back of the car and the customer. By said mechanic no doubt?

What makes you believe that? What the garage has said perhaps?