J.R.

Yes I agree, and a more diplomatic way of saying it 👍

Good on you! 👍

I love doing all that I can to give them as little of my money as possible, only having insurance when it is a legal requirement and not even then in stupid cases like my tractor, lawnmower and trailers

You are obsessing over a ridiculous comment made by either an idiot or wind up merchant that it can take a period of time for long coding to be recognised by the ECU and have been doing so for 2 weeks now, its time to wise up and ask yourself does the claim make any sense whatsoever?

To do that you need to explain what you actually did, what parts you removed, what parts remained in place driveshaft for instance whether you struggled with any refitting and had to resort to force, getting the strut back in the steering knuckle springs to mind. If the job went smoothly and you did it in the prescribed manner I cant see any connection with a transmission oil leak. Far more of concern is the wobbling like a loose wheel, did you correctly tighten the hub nut if you pulled the steering knuckle from the driveshaft? Obvious question did you correctly tighten the wheel nuts?

👍👍👍👍

Alternator pulley sprag clutch, AKA one way clutch, roller ramp bearing. I cant see where I want to look in the video but the belt would be oscillating on its longest length and the tensioner moving back and forth.

Apologies for my confusion, I could have sworn that your posting had a 3rd different username and was a new contributor to this thread, I read back through all the names several times as well! But I do recall the person asking the question had a 2011 Yeti so it was definitely my mistake and not a forum glitch. What does IRL mean, my brain making lame excuses for itself is telling me that was the username I saw 🥴

From the oxidisation it actually looks like it was already fractured all the way around and it would not have taken a lot to finish it off. I had the rear wiper on my MK1 Octavia vandalised by kids, your wiper will have still been attached to the shaft, was it bent and buckled? A small consolation but it would have eventually seperated I reckon and it could have been mid journey, looks like a new unit or at least the housing is needed, always a pain on an older vehicle.

Sorry to answer a question with a question but what are your chances of proving that? Are you yet another party regarding the same vehicle as JID and Jetsetwilly? This is getting a bit confusing, if you are someone else then you need to give a little more info on why you desire that a garage replace your differential or Haldex on a 13 year old vehicle, what oil change being skipped, did you pay for it etc.

@xman Why the groan icon to my last posting? I am fairly sure that the MSA Blue Book will have revised regulations for the mandatory electrical system cut off of EV's taking part in MSA or FIA motorsports events, 2 decades ago I would have just picked up my bible and quoted them to you. Happy to be proved wrong but I am confident that it will be a mandatory requirement, that the cut off switch or relay will exist on every EV or hybrid used in motorsport so it can not be the technical challenge or impossibility that you believe it to be, whether or not one should be fitted to road vehicles is certainly open to discussion. Actually on the grounds of safety I would be less than happy to be proved wrong in this instance.

Several times most weeks when welding and plasma cutting but that aint at all the same as a DC EV battery. Disconnection of the high voltage battery would not be a pulsed DC arcing situation and even the tool operated manual disconnect systems on the batteries themselves likely have a capacitor in parallel in case they are passing current through an inductive load. We are talking about something being used in an emergency situation, there are EV's in motorsport now, the RAC Blue Book will set out what the mandatory battery cut off will be, 20 years too late for me to have enough interest to look it up.

There is no danger from a 12v heating element, my shonky electric blanket was fed from an RCD, they will not trip if there is no current leakage, most 240v ac electrical fires are from non fault current loads passing through a loose connection causing arcing and there being combustible material in the vicinity that will sustain and propogate fire once ignited. Home furnishings and vehicle upholstery have been fire resistant since forever, I have no end of work clothing that has smouldered into ashes on my body while welding or plasma cutting, the worst being when I cut an RSJ using a petrol disc cutter, none of them catch fire although I make sure they are regularly washed and dont get oil sodden. I have seen some horrific injuries where little children have worn cheap imported fancy dress costumes and come into contact with candles, sparklers etc.

A simple latching relay with a NC contact cut off pusbutton is series with the relay coil would suffice, very basic technology, its what I did with all my racecars and combined it with a hidden latching N/O pushbutton as a security measure, it did not comply with the then MSA regulations but scrutineers did not know what was going on when they tested it, it was in fact far far safer than the cut off switches sold then and now made in China whose contacts would either weld together or oxidise. The only downside of it for an EV is that it is one more component to potentially cause reliability issues.

When I stopped day release I was 24 and went straight out on the Contract Draughtsman circuit earning 4 times what my then Senior Draughtsman salary was, I was the first of an exodus probably aided by me rubbing their nose in it Harry Enfield Loadsamoney styley! The company (2500 employees) then gave all the drawing office staff a big raise which did little to stem the losses. I did well out of them and have no complaints, if I had not gone off the rails I would have finished day release in 4 years and not 8 and maybe had a further chance of university sponsorship. It was an excellent apprebticeship, second only to Rolls Royce at the time, I never considered any of the several other offers, my mothers words were imprinted on me, that was after she resigned herself that her grease monkey son was not accepting being pushed towards being a Doctor, Dentist, Lawyer etc and had set his sights far too low on being a motor mechanic.

Partial short circuit, seat heaters, electric blankets, the UFH that I use all rely on the resistance wire being a certain length and in the case of the latter carry dire warnings about not shortening them. Fuses are rated to protect the wiring to an appliance from overheating and not the appliance itself. In the case of my electric blanket the lower about 1/4 of the resistance was being shorted out, worse still it was arcing with the partial contact, the part of the blanket heating did get hotter but not unbearably so, in fact I was enjoying it, it was the arcing that smouldered the holes through bedlinen and burned my shoulder. There was never any danger of a fire, had the mattress been an older one then maybe just maybe but I think even they were self extinguishing from smaller heat sources like a burning cigarette.

You can take that as a "no" Stonekeeper!

University tuition would have been as attainable to me as flying to the moon, it was not even dreamt about, 2000 pupils at y school, perhaps 2 from my year went on to university, they were either young Einsteins or had rich families. I was 13 years old before I realised that not everybody lived in a council house, my mums bosses son (middle class family) stayed at our house when we went to the company pantomine outing, he asked me if we had never lived in a private house and I had to ask him what one of those was. And yet there was an opportunity to go to university through my apprenticeship, to be sponsored by the company as a student apprentice, I think that was always my mums plan (she was a personnel officer) and her dying wish, I worked very hard towards it in the first 2 years and was on the small selection list but the company chose not to risk their investment and commitment because they could see I did not have any family commitment behind me.

Compared to the light output from the projector lights in my MK2 Octavia the illumination from the H7 Yeti headlights is magnificent, I wont be changing to LEDs. Both vehicles I had fitted with brand new LHD headlights for use in France.

By the age of 20, maybe 21 I was driving a Triumph Stag, it did 16mpg and cost 10p per mile to run as petrol had risen to £1.60 per gallon by then. I had just finished my apprenticeship and was a Junior Draughtsman and guess what, it turned out that all we had been told as 16 year olds was lies, my starting salary £3850 IIRC was less than my 4th year apprentice pay! But I still had paid day release for another 4 years, I had been working evenings and weekends as a mechanic, welder, paint sprayer in a rented workshop since 17 years old which carried me through those difficult years, looking back inflation must have been rampant then, petrol going from 73p to £1.60 per gallon and my wages similarly.

If the differential is not making any noise and the jerking is just annoying rather than total transmission wind up, if the vehicle tracks correctly on a wet and dry roundabout and does not feel like it is steering itself at times I suggest your friend lives with the idiosyncrasy like I do or disconnects the Haldex controller and have a 2wd vehicle which many are without the owners realising due to the filter gauze being blocked or pump failure. Better still take it somewhere else that is not treating them as a magic money tree.

A common occurence due to the limitations of the pre-emptive engagement software, mine does it most times I reverse out of a supermarket parking space on full lock, not a failure, a "feature" in Skoda speak. The vehicle diagnostics, fault codes from the controllers cannot indicate diff failure as it is purely mechanical, there is a Haldex controller which monitors hydrauilic pressure, pump current etc. I think that you understand that the Haldex and differential are completely seperated and sealed from each other and contained within the overall aluminium housing. Nobody to my knowledge in the UK reconditions them, your options are new and second hand, you should not treat a second hand unit as scrap as they are massively robust and failure is nearly always a result of mistakenly draining the differential oil and leaving it dry. A failure from that caught in time like my vehicle or a very very high mileage vehicle will only have wear on the smaller LH rear output shaft bearing, these are a standard bearing and cost less than £20 or £30, replacement is simple enough for the very few people around who still know how to set up the backlash and preload etc of a differential. What is not available are the oil seals.

My hourly pay was 40p when working in a garage before my apprenticeship, a gallon of petrol for my Honda SS50 cost 73p, my pals with their 2 stroke Fizzies etc paid even more. The garage owner berated me for spending close to 2 hours pay on a can of coke and a Mars bar at lunchtime, he was right and it always stuck with me but I had no choice, my mother had died and I was pretty much starved at home, my father kept food in a fridge locked in his wardrobe, there was no way that I could have had a packed lunch. I dont know how much my starting pay was at my apprenticeship but recall vividly that it was a significant drop from my 40p an hour cash in hand mechanics salary and I now had to pay tax and NIC, there was however thank heavens a subsidised canteen where egg & chips cost 11p, sausage egg and chips 21p and first year apprentices like me had a 10p discount so my one proper meal of the day cost me 1p. I also had to pay £10 a week rent to my father, later on he took in a lodger which turned out to be his girlfriends daughters boyfriend and only charged him £5 per week saying he was not eating meals at the house, except he was, that was my cue to move out.

My Grandfather said that from the 30's right up until the 80's two motoring costs were an absolute constant, a gallon o f petrol cost the same as an hours pay for a skilled man (we would say person now) and a single spark plug cost 5 shillings and when I checked he was absolutely spot on. Spark plugs got cheaper with mass production techniques and road fuel became cheaper in real terms and vehicle ownership became democratised and available to the masses. When I had my moped a gallon of fuel was far far more than an hours wage as an apprentice, I will have to do some googling to see how much.

Please describe them, nobody can offer options until they know whether the problem is the Haldex or the differential. Had your friend recently paid a garage to change the Haldex oil or was it done as part of a service?