J.R.

They will have been placed where they could serve the maximum of properties with the minimum cable lengths.

Re the location of the green cabinets, are they not mostly located at junctions between roads on the corners, the sensible place for going off in 3 directions? That is certainly the case here in France and it was in the City of London. Places where no-one parks and to do so would be very dangerous and against the law. I suppose on a long straight residential road with no side turnings they must repeat at intervals.

And a 1/4 of the price of the diagnosis! I'm glad to see that it was an Indie that charged for looking at the vehicle and not the garage that sold it to you, these warranties are a goldmine for them and provide a convenient smokescreen for them to hide behind while avoiding their responsabilities.

Modular design, common engine block, different capacities (1.6 and 2 Litre) twin balance shafts on the 2.0l, different turbos and mapping to create different power outputs and emissions to suit different markets. The bonus being that I can buy a cooking 108hp (might be 110) and get cheap registration when re-registered in France where the same model only had a 5 speed gearbox because of the puissance fiscale rating then have it remapped to an alleged 190hp without changing any components, very reliable because I reckon its the standard VAG 170 map.

@OldKaroq I just tested my vehicle and am pleased to say that both map reading lights went out immediately when I locked the car using the remote keyfob, so I reckon you can relax, they are unlikely to have gone backwards with a sensible feature like that.

I have noticed them on when I next got in the car but they may have been off in the interim period, thinking about it in my usual optimist manner, they are very dim lights, if I could see they were on when in the car it must have been dark or dusk and logic says under those conditions I would have seen their illumination when approaching the car. I will do a test for you which hopefully will allow you to relax!

Any sound in the world could fit your criteria.

I was musing today that within the next few years will probably be my first foray into EV's and it will certainly be like the majority of my previous vehicles a write off to put back on the road, not accident repairs this time but probably a battery recon or some other failed system. I read recently of a 6 year old Nissan Leaf where the charging socket overheated and burnt, typical connector failure where the female contact opens up and starts arcing, nobody would fix it, everyone was quoting a new charging module for £6K I think it was. It got me thinking which vehicles are going to be the lemons, the future EV equivalent of Betamax videos as that will surely be my first EV. Who do you think will be the winners and losers? I'm convinced there are going to be some unloved bargains out there in the future especially when the cost of electricity for locomotion becomes taxed how it will have to be.

I can't recall.

Airbags? I bet that vehicle drags its ar5e like a dog with worms with a caravan on tow, a roof box and passengers.

I have never "easily" seen mine on any of the vehicles, in fact I would go as far as to say that despite trying many times I have never managed to see any of them but I do only have one eye and until the recent cataract op it was hopeless close up and in the gloom. So my OBDII port is a bit like my bodies rear orifice, I know that its there, I can reach it and never miss but have never seen it 🤣

Agreed regarding the shorted wires but not the dead short if a module is faulty, that contradicts the 120 ohm if a controller is faulty, neither of them are correct according to my knowledge and experience, the best thing would be to interrogate the controllers using VCDS to find any fault codes.

The first part is plausible but only if the manufacturer uses a 60 ohm EOL (end of line) termination resistor, this does what the name suggests and will confirm that the network is intact with no breaks along its length, I have measured it manually on the last car but am not sure the resistance is supposed to be 60 ohm, the EOL was located somewhere around the LH rear light cluster. The second part, the 120 ohms in fault condition is a flight of fantasy, there are a multitude of faults that could occur in a controller none of which would affect the EOL resistance, disconnecting the controller being one of them, lack of power another, any internal circuitry fault etc.

Moving upwards is folding forwards is it not? Or have I misunderstood something?

Do you have the seat pushed all the way back? Do you have the backrest folded fully forwards? Could there be anything trapped preventing either of the above from completing their travel? Another possibility is that when the seat was last dropped back into position a foreign object was trapped and is putting pressure on the release mechanism, you may have to push the seat further down to release it. The problem I used to have was after folding the seat forward not being able to release the clamps to remove it from the securing rails. That was down to its sideways position I think, were all 3 seats fitted?

I am sceptical about your diagnosis, what is a Canbus break out box and have you tried using a multimeter to verify the EOL resistance. If there were a dead short none of the control modules would be able to communicate with each other and I do not think the engine would start, ECU needs to communicate with the instrument cluster for immobiliser, if it did run most of the other systems would either not work or go to default limited operating strategy.

Hydraulics is not your strong point Paws5Thot 😁 No!

Yes, unless you wanted to pull away in second but they have little low down torque and tiny flywheels so whilst possible not recommended. With a reversing gearbox (mine was a tiny differential that I modified to become the centre propshaft bearing) you have 6 forward gears and 6 reverse gears and the same max speed in either direction dependant on the drag coefficient which was actually better backwards!

I used Jubilee clips as a temporary measure while I waited for a new sleeve and clamp assembly, I dont think you can buy the clamps alone and standard old school U bolt clamps would distort the sleeve. My new one had decent clamps, well better than the decomposed old ones but the sleeve was not as robust as the original OE stainless one so I reused that with the new clamps. That said I must have sourced some clamps because I have kept the new sleeve as a spare and it has clamps on it, another mystery from my memory loss. The VAG part from TPS is very expensive but good quality, the clamps and bolts are now corrosion resistant.

Oops! 🥴 I scrolled to the top and read the posting and the sidebar but did not see the title for looking as I used to say.

The photo is not much help as the arrow is pointing to an exhaust hanger. Non metallic underbody material can not rust, later vehicles have composite plastic underbody guards which are close to the lifting points, maybe yours has. You have a circa 20 year old car that seemingly has cosmetic damage to an unseen part, unless you are the only owner and have only ever used this one garage and never had tyres fitted, a puncture repair or even an MOT then you are not going to get anything from them other than a diminished relationship. My last 2 vehicles had cracked underbody shields, at least one caused by myself, all of them had damaged cill bottom flanges where they had been jacked away from the jacking points and/or without the correct form of crutch pad, without more detailed and informative photos I doubt your vehicle is any different to most other MK1 Fabias.

Do we even know what fuel the vehicle is powered by?

Might, or could well tell you. Its not the Canbus network that detects and records fault codes, it is the individual controllers which can be interrogated by a fault code reader plugged into the OBDII port communicating with them via the Canbus network.

What is an "average quality" wheel bearing and how can you tell one from what I guess you would call "proper OEM quality" FWIW for the last 20 years I have fitted the cheapest available replacement parts, springs, struts, strut mounts, ARB drop links, wheel bearings, engine and ABS sensors etc etc, in that time I have only had one niggle, a strut top mount bearing that became as noisy as the one replaced within 3 months, replaced with an even cheaper one which is working fine, the old one bench tests perfectly and will be kept for future use. A appreciate that others risk thresholds will be different to mine and paying for labour makes a difference.

Do you mean that you removed the grommet or the remains of it? Judging by the amounts of grease, crud and schmoo where I think it was located it will be worth replacing it at some time. Glad to hear that you are getting brutal sunshine in lovely Cornwall.