J.R.

Yeah, I've paid the price a few times but like a cat seem to have 9 lives.

Is this a joke? What sound(s) do you believe an old mattress makes? And why old and not a new one? It would help if you were to describe when the noise appears and under what conditions.

Those warnings would be too much for the curious child in me! To the OP, you should only release the cap or the pipe when the system is stone cold, you have a low fluid level which the system has detected, doing what you did just releases the compressed air allowing the heated coolant to expand into the space, if done cold you could top up. I would not take it to a garage but thats me and I'm not advising others what to do, I would cut through the tamper seal as the garage would and remove the cap not the hose to top up. They will be doing the same thing with windscreen wash fluid next, more fool anyone buying a new car

When I did mine there was nothing available and I had to scribe cut a pair of infill panels, I did a good job but the black textured paint is beginning to fade, good to know that there are proper trims available now. Mine also is manual AC so I would be interested to know which one people think is the correct one. I also saw this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32825654447.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller.1.6523tOqDtOqDu1&gps-id=pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.40050.354490.0&scm_id=1007.40050.354490.0&scm-url=1007.40050.354490.0&pvid=d041fb82-fe68-4c37-8ed2-19e97489daaa&_t=gps-id:pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller,scm-url:1007.40050.354490.0,pvid:d041fb82-fe68-4c37-8ed2-19e97489daaa,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238109%231935&pdp_npi=4%40dis!EUR!18.09!15.02!!!138.06!114.59!%40211b61bb17095930867567400e5773!67158582302!rec!FR!855615080!&utparam-url=scene%3ApcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller|query_from%3A Editted, a good seller with a description that makes sense, all you need to do is select the model for manual AC:

All somewhat theoretical and complete misses the Elephant in the room that if you run out of diesel on a common rail engine you are more likely than not going to destroy the scavenge pump and the resultant swarf will take out the high pressure pump and injectors requiring the entire injection system including fuel lines to be replaced if its a garage and even a DIY'er would be taking a chance re-using any components that appear OK. I dont push my luck anywhere near as much with this vehicle compared to its predecessors, on them I would run dry the first tank (carrying a jerrycan) to see what the maximum range was, I dont intend finding that out on this vehicle.

I have run out twice, both times when the fuel sender was playing up on my MK1 Octavia and I had not kept an eye on the trip meter as a back up. Both times I was returning from scuba diving where things did not go to plan so I was distracted/tired each time. The first was driving 3 other divers back from Brittany, ran out on autoroute, coasted into service station and refilled but would not start and I did not know how to bleed the injectors which was not well recieved. I had been driving diesels a few years but till then they were just too darn reliable for me to gain any experience. The second time was ice diving near Arras, passing between holes cut in the ice following a guide rope, I had forgotten my neoprene bootees so decided as it was a short dive I would do it in my socks and hiking boots and hopefully get some feeling back afterwards with the car heater, it was of course well below zero degrees, the last big freeze in Northern France, perhaps 2007. 15 minutes on the way back I ran out of fuel and had to spend the night in the car in my bivvy bag at minus 10°c with bare feet. The guage which I had repaired and had been working well got binned for another.

Well this idiot drove 1040 kms today, a different route but autoroute all the way, longer than I had thought and after half a tank it became apparent that I would be probably 40-50 miles beyond what I believe the maximum range is (change of units for you there!). Fuel light came on, ignored it and carried on for another 100 miles or so, zero miles remaining showed at 510 miles, on the way up I had done 525 miles with 25 remaining with the roof rack on - go figure! Today I drove a further 50 miles on the Autoroute A20 with zero mile remaining displayed to get to a services at about the right place and did a splash and dash at 560 miles, 10 litres enough for the rest of the journey, no more because that alone was €2 more expensive than normal pump prices, display indicated enough range to complete my journey but of course then magicked it away so the last 50 kms were once again completed with zero miles remaining indicated, units changed to keep you on your toes! So this idiot would respectfully suggest that only an muppet would believe the fuel guage or distance remaining on a VAG vehicle built in the last 25 years. I would also suggest that the world would be a better place if people on social media were a little less judgemental, people do not have to provide an excuse for their decisions and level of risk aversion.

Not fitted to poverty spec models like mine. Its always done the business when needed and I haven't found myself wanting to pre-empt it, my plot is a swamp and I tow trailers up to 3 tonne around it, I have also done a small amount of technical offroading, cross axling etc, it has always coped but the tyres are close to slick now.

Because you have taken the lazy route and stopped doing your own maintenance, now you are whinging about paying the price for your decision and comparing apples with valve radios.

I have no locking button.

There is not a guage to the left of the image with lines, there is half of a rev counter, to the right is oil temperature.

How do you know the order? Maybe they wont be able to top up the washer fluid until the TPMS is reset.

And did you wonder where that might have come from? 💡 I presume that you mean a sniff tester for combustion gases, it sounds like an EGR cooler leak as a leaking head gasket would get worse and quickly overpressurise the system, it sounds like you have the problem under control and can live with it for the moment.

I would be very surprised if that were the case. Are you sure that the yellow light is not to indicate a low coolant level? The sensor you speak of does exactly that and a build up of schmoo on its exposed contacts can cause it to show a low level when all is well, that said yours may well be low.

You can rule that out, engine timing has not been adjustable or a service item for over 3 decades. Cam timing is frequently done incorrectly when a cam belt is changed. Now we have seen that you are correct that the lobes are a shrink fit, and thankyou to you and the others who have educated me and others, I think your scenario of a previous cambelt failure and cam movement is plausible but equally plausible is that this could have been the first instance of cam belt failure, maybe you saw the belt intact. In any case your concern that camshafts with misaligned lobes might be re-used is valid, I dont know the consumer laws in your country and you would have to prove a hypothesis, I could easily check the valve opening angles with a dial guage and crankshaft protractor, I was doing it all my previous life building race engines. Sadly you have very little hope of finding a modern garage with the interest or competence to do the same, your only possibility is to learn how to do it yourself and do so when the vehicle is returned, its not difficult but time consuming, what you will be looking for is different opening and closing angles between the slipped and unaffacted cam lobes. Aint that the truth! Almost every day I learn another reason not to own a newer car, consumerism must be a very powerfull and addictive drug for people to expose themselves to the grief awaiting them buying a new or newer vehicle.

Why do you deem someone who runs out of fuel an idiot?

Its always been instantaneous in the Yeti, also pre-emptive which can be a bit of a pain on the occasions that it causes transmission wind up, it always seems to happen when reversing very slowly (I dont have good vision) out of a supermarket parking place on lock to turn 90° in the narrow lane between the opposing spaces. I have also driven (empty industrial estate at weekend night) with VCDS showing the Haldex engagement, there is partial engagement most of the time, many instances of pre-emptive engagement and when fully engaged accelerating hard up a greasy slope it has micro-releases to avoid transmission wind up. Maybe the earlier controllers were lacking but it sounds like there was a hydraulic problem with yours, perhaps a partially blocked filter screen. Overall it is pretty seamless and unless you are really in touch with and at one with your vehicle most would not even notice it operating until it doesn't.

What a generous offer, I like your style and reasoning! I hope it finds the owner it deserves.

I did a 500 mile motorway journey a week ago so got less economy than I usually do, hardly used the car this week, odometer shows 525 miles and 10 miles remaining range, this time I wont be using that and an additional 50+ miles because I will fill up tomorrow so as to have no fuel stops on the return journey on Monday. It will be interesting to see how many fewer litres I get in than normal, I am betting on 53 or 54 litres. Many fewer is probably very bad English.

It sounds the same as the grille and outer chrome or black frame on the facelift Yeti, I have got it apart twice now, the second time easier than the first once it had lost its virginity. Its one of these jobs that you have to stop pondering, bite the bullet and get on with it.

Did it happen when you were driving? Was it preceded by anything, noise, lack of power etc? It could have been a cam belt failure but that would normally affect all 4 cylinders. The cylinder ingesting a metallic foreign body could do it, something detached from the intake tract. Or it could just be garage BS, have you seen the broken rockers with your own eyes?

I understand now and was unaware of that. Do you know what caused the rockers to break? Has the head been lifted? Was the engine perhaps hydrolocked? ie driven through a flood?

He released the bleed nipple on the master cylinder which released both seized rear brakes so the chances of it being what you say, both hoses with simultaneous internal blockages is as close to zero as you could get. Check the handbrake cable compensator, it should be at 90° to the tension rod and the rear cables should be evenly adjusted and level with each other (bad description) if it isnt then the problem is with the handbrake/self adjuster mechanism on the cable that is further forward. I think you may have 2 faults, perhaps one being a new caliper thats not 100%. It will be a master cylinder fault, the pushrod being too long can cause this but only if someone has been messing around with it. It also sounds like the NSR caliper handbrake lever or the self adjuster is partially seized.

Sounds like a fairy tale, you heard that where? Camshafts have to rotate to function, are you claiming that the cam lobes rotate on the camshaft? I would be more concerned with what had caused both rockers to break.

Dont forget to top up the anti-gravity oil after replacing the O ring! Look at the corroded clean alloy areas of the casing then look at the black oily ones and ask yourself has the oil really leaked out of the plate at the very bottom of the gearbox.