MATT0693

Not yet, I was going to do it at the same time as swapping the bulbs. At first I thought it was in my head as I have been using a car with LED headlights for a few weeks, but they definitely are terrible. 😂

I completely agree, the problem is selling that to a customer without them thinking your trying to make more money out of them. In some cases my margins are smaller on the branded parts, but it saves me the headache in poor fitment and warranty issues down the line.

Hi All, The headlights on my VRS are rubbish and the beam is quite short, any recommendations on the best Xenon headlight bulbs? I have been looking at the Osram Night Breaker Laser units, prices seem to be around £120+ for a pair. Thanks

That is a HUGE amount of money for that work. I did discs and pads on a 1.2TSi Yeti last week, £90 quid for mid-range discs & pads (3yr warranty) and it took me an hour. The costs of the parts is going to vary on your PR code and brand choices, I would not expect to pay much more than £200-250 for that job.

I had to try several stations on Friday night to get diesel, most still had petrol available. The bloke in front of me managed to squeeze a whole £13 in his tank one click a time, then popped another 20L in a fuel can..... the guy works in the local Halfords and lives about 4 miles away.. so I guess he did a big ass journey Sunday!

The wife has a 1.2 TSi Polo, that would usually get 60-65mpg on her commute, it is now mid-high 50's. The last E5 tank returned 460miles, the last E10 tank returned 430miles so around a 7% decrease; it is too hard to attribute how much of that is down to the fuel alone. If my math's is right, E10 probably works out to around £4 per tank 'more expensive', premium unleaded is around £8 more expensive per tank.

+1 for Brembo discs. I have run them on track cars with aggressive pads without issue, they last well for a OEM replacement disc. At around £100-110 for a set of Brembo discs & pads for an Octy, it is a bit of a no-brainer really.

I would get the car plugged in and DPF levels checked and some live data logs, four times a night is far to frequent. If you have a faulty pressure sensor and you leave it, you will do more damage than good. You don't want to spend over £500 to replace the DPF if the issue is being caused by a sensor. The problem is with DPF's they do not like short trips, especially on a cold engine. As others have said, in-tank fluids are not worth it, you need to remove the DPF and use a proper cleaner. If you can get the car on the motorway more frequently, that would help you a lot, otherwise it may be worth considering an alternative petrol vehicle. I have a client that is a taxi driver, one has made the change from diesel to petrol due to local emissions zones and finds the running costs are less.

It isn't unheard of for discs to warp, but for it to happen several times would suggest an issue or very poor luck! If you are fitting decent branded products, cleaning the hub face with a wire brush, cleaning and greasing the slide pins, you should have no issues (providing you give them time to bed in) I have seen cheap pads cause material transfer to the disc when hot, sometimes the material transfer isn't removed under normal braking so the discs are scrap. If you are holding the car on the brakes with hot pads, this could be the cause. If you turn the wheel by hand, the pads should not be rubbing the disc, if they are you have an issue with the caliper/sliders. A local garage will be able to measure the radial run-out for you, or get a DTI gauge online and check it yourself, if the radial runout is within tolerance then it will be the friction surface is scoring or has 'thermal spotting'. If your discs are relatively new, it might be worth checking the warranty period and returning them for inspection, even the cheap motor factor brands offer 2-3 years now. The supplier will either refund you if they are Chinese as it is not worth the costs, or they will return them for inspection and give you a report as to why they have gone wrong.

Welcome! There is plenty of useful advice on upgrades in the forum and plenty of knowledgeable people. Depending on which year you are going for, it may already have carplay fitted although some will require it to be activated.

That's not bad going! If I knew I could average 35-40mpg i would make the switch. I just know I'd spend money on tuning. I've averaged 57mpg over the last 2.5k, It will return mid-high 60s on a run. Swapping to the diesel dropped my fuel bill by nearly £2k, based on my last car getting 28mpg.

I have been looking at switching from my diesel to a petrol, I miss the refinement of a petrol car. I do around 15-18k a year though, not sure I could cope with the fuel bill with half the economy. Plus, the petrol models tune very easily.... the diesel doesn't so was a wise choice for me.

I have a 2016 DSG and my average over the last 1200 miles is 57mpg. I get around 45-50mpg around town with a heavy foot , 60-70mpg on the motorway/a-roads. Active DPF regens will hit your fuel economy a bit, mine tends to do it once per tank. It is also worth making sure your tyre pressures are spot on.

Car just tipped 28k

Hi All, My car recently did two DPF regens back to back, just wondering if the levels below look correct? 2016 Octavia VRS (CUNA) Soot Mass Calculated 11.96g Soot Mass Measured -3.16g Oil Ash Mass 12.8g The car seemed to finish the first regen, the idle speed had dropped and stop-start was functioning for the last few miles of my trip. I filled the car up the following day and as soon as I pulled out of the Shell garage it started to regen again.

That is good to hear, which company/software did you use? Thanks for the feedback, certainly sounds like Revo is the way forward. Thanks for the info. Thanks for the reply. Definitely something to think about.

Hi All, I have booked my VRS TDi in for a remap at the end of the month (Revo Stage 1) I found an article stating that turbo upgrades are required beyond 220-240hp, which is roughly what most tuners quote as peak figures. Looking at dyno graphs and social media posts, most people are sitting around the 220-225hp mark. Has anyone experienced any reliability issues since having their car mapped? The article makes it sound like the turbo will have no headroom and EGT's will be high.

Hi All, Although the car was quite a pleasant drive, we rejected it due to some issues. We have opted for a higher-spec Polo. Looks like she'll be using my VRS for the week.

Luckily there is a 14day no quibble money back guarantee. May be worth handing it back and looking at other manufacturers. She picks it up tomorrow so we will find out.

Thanks for the feedback, she is used to the three cylinder noise from the Ford. The rattles are probably no different to my VRS! Ouch, not sure she will be happy then! The road noise on the Ford was one of the gripes, along with all the things that go wrong with it. We have looked at a few Monti's, I think the interior swayed her towards the Redline.

I usually shift into N if I am likely to be at the lights for a while (Main junctions etc) otherwise I just leave it in D with my foot hard down on the brake. In my Octavia gently pressing the brake doesn't fully disengage drive, the revs will sit around 1000 and engine note is slightly louder, hard pressing it the revs will be at the normal idle.

The Octavia is wider than the Fabia, I am pretty sure the bumper profiles are different too. Magnatuning do some splitters and diffusers for the Fabia, may be worth a look. There is a flat bottom steering wheel in the 'Red Line' trim Fabia, it would all come down to the wiring aspect.

Hi All, Just wondering if there are any 1.0 TSi owners that could share their views on living with one? (Noise, Comfort, Economy etc.) The wife has just put a deposit down on a 2018 Fabia Redline to replace her Fiesta Ecoboost, the car is mostly for the school run and town driving with the occasional motorway trip. The Fabia seems to have less spec and have higher running costs on paper, hopefully the quality wins over the Ford!

Hi All, I have a Octavia Mk2 with an ignition issue. The car previously cut out whilst driving but would restart and continue for a short distance, the fault was diagnosed as the crank sensor which was replaced. It ran fine for around 500 miles before randomly cutting out again, this time the codes are for the ignition switch, a replacement part has been fitted but the codes come back. Any help would be appreciated. The codes are as below: 5 Faults Found: 00576 - Terminal 15 012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit - Intermittent 00883 - Ignition Switch (D) Terminal S 012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit - Intermittent 00884 - Ignition Switch (D) Terminal X 012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit - Intermittent 01744 - Ignition Switch Terminal P (D) 012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit - Intermittent 00885 - Ignition Switch (D) Terminal 50 012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit - Intermittent

Hi All, I have a 66' Octavia VRS and I am struggling to get HBA to the Virtual subwoofer ones to work! HBA I don't seem to have '(2) Assistant Light Functions' appear on VCDS. Virtual Subwoofer I don't seem to have the option to change from 0 to 1 as per the instruction below. 2 - Select Long Coding (Select 1 from top menu not 0) I have attached some photos of what options I have on screen, I am probably missing something very obvious. Any help would be appreciated.