MATT0693

Sachs are good, they are an OE supplier and will investigate under warranty. They have a small section on clutch slip on their website https://aftermarket.zf.com/go/en/sachs/technology-in-practice/workshop-tips/clutch-systems/clutch-slipping/ I would ask him for a copy of the guidelines used and his findings as a report. I personally have never seen any 'guidelines' from the manufacturer for the tolerances of a clutch operation. The caliper sticking could be his 'get out clause' for warranty, just incase it comes back on him from the supplier. Whilst a binding brake caliper could cause a bit of extra stress to the clutch, I wouldn't think it sufficient to cause it to slip unless it was really stuck. I would speak to the garage about warranty, see if they are willing to return it under warranty (presuming they supplied it so have to deal with it) If they are confident that the fault is with the component or the car/you, they should have no issue as it will either be you or the supplier paying the bill.

It sounds like the clutch pack, I am sure the specialist will run some checks on the box to make sure it isn't the mech unit. The LUK clutch kit is around £300, pretty sure the DQ200/1.4 TSI uses a DMF too which is around £300-£350, probably around £1000 all in. Certainly not worth getting rid of the car over if it is just the clutch, it is a wear and tear item at the end of the day and the price isn't dissimilar to normal manual vehicles.

Definitely not normal. As per above, check what brand was installed and get a claim in under warranty. The only thing is, you will need to pay for the replacement & fitting upfront, then reclaim it under the warranty. Warranty can be a painful process sometimes, it depends on the supplier. LUK (Lifetime Warranty) are usually quite good, they will have it back and do a full report on the item highlighting if it is a defect, fitting error or user error. Some cheaper brands such as 'transmech' can be a battle as they don't often do reports, they either argue it or roll over and pay. Most places will want invoices for initial fitting and removal, so make sure you have them.

I be interested to hear your reviews on them once fitted, I might look into them when Awesome have a sale.

I personally use Gates or INA, I haven't had an issue in the 11 years I have used them. Just make sure you check the engine code as I believe both 170hp variants (CBBB/CFGB) have their own variants but both are similar money. The bits usually cost around £120-130 (Belt & Pump) so aren't too bad, genuine parts can sometimes be had for similar money too.

I also wanted some, read a few thread and found that not all fit. There are some on Awesome GTI but at £149... I might have to pass!

Speak to a VW specialist, most are around the £400-450 mark on the TSI engine. My partner has the same engine in her car, the pump is separate so saves you a little bit of money, the belt kit cost me £60ish and I did it in a morning. Some smaller garages may do it for less, it will depend on the labour rate in your area.

Definitely not an easy fix! You can get DVR's relatively cheap and just swap it all over, or use it as an excuse to upgrade

I have the same issue. Every day, same road, same message... yet there is never any traffic there. I have tried load different options to turn it off and haven't succeeded, I've just turned the volume for the 'car voice' all the way down.

I have had a similar issue with another brand a few years back, it turned out to be the hard drive so I swapped that with a cheap one from Amazon. A few months after that the box would light up but nothing would happen, that was due to the power supply giving up. The system was about 5 years old at that point so opted to get new equipment as the image quality was far superior. Edit: Can you get in through the app on your phone and check settings that aren't visible on the monitor?

The silica bag is a well documented issue across the VAG group. A VW tech told me it was to prolong the coolant life over time, so it should last the lifecycle of the car. It seems a little pointless to me as most cars are going to have coolant pumps changed every 5 years anyway, it makes sense to flush the system and renew. My tank was double walled to the bag can't be removed, so I swapped it for a non-silica version and change the coolant at the same time.

My advice would be drive it gently, keep the engine load as low as possible and revs down, if you can plan for a coffee break halfway just to keep the engine as cold as possible. If your engine is anything like mine, it takes 6 miles to warm up in the cooler months anyway. If you are with the AA/RAC, they can always tow the car there for you (Just check if your cover starts at home or 1/4 of a mile away). On a side note, check what brands your garage are going to fit and the warranty. There are plenty of cheap pumps available from motor factors/online retailer for £40-50 with a 12month warranty, a few quid extra will get you 2-3years. Genuine pumps are available for around £80, or premium brands such as INA are also similar money.

There is couple of things it could be, although it sounds like the early signs of pump failure. I presume the coolant levels are ok?.. No recent work carried out or obvious leaks that could cause an air-lock? It could be something as simple as a faulty coolant temp sensor, but definitely get it looked into as overheating will cause further problems. If the pump isn't circulating the coolant, the hoses probably will be cold as no hot fluid is being pushed through them, all the hot coolant will be inside the engine itself. Any noise from the timing belt area should be investigated (the pump runs from the belt), if any of the components fail you are looking at a big bill for a engine rebuild or replacement engine.

Diesel Auto's are very reliant on a good strong battery, so although it has been replaced.. get it health checked. I presume the battery was coded at the point of fitting (if the car requires it) and no faults were present after? I would also look to read all the fault codes and clear them, and see what comes back.

View Advert INA Timing Belt Kit - Skoda 1.0, 1.2, 1.4 1.6 Engines Hi All, I have a INA timing belt kit available for the 1.0, 1.0 TSI, 1.2 TSI, 1.4 TSI & 1.6 engines across VW, Audi, Skoda & Seat. Model No: 530 0592 10 / 530 0592 11 I am happy to check fitment for you, or you can check yourself on the Schaeffler website. Originally purchased from GSF Car Parts (www.gsfcarparts.com/129vg0990) It covers the following cars: Citigo - 1.0 Fabia Mk3 - 1.0, 1.2 TSI & 1.6 Karoq - 1.0 TSI Kodiaq - 1.4 TSI Octavia - 1.0 TSI, 1.2 TSI, 1.4 TSI & 1.6 Rapid - 1.2TSI & 1.4 TSI Superb - 1.4 TSI Yeti - 1.2 TSI, 1.4 TSI & 1.6 I am happy to post it if required, postage will be free providing you are UK mainland. Payment via PayPal is fine or cash on collection. Advertiser MATT0693 Date 15/10/21 Price £35 Category Parts for Sale Shipping Estimate £0

I would say that is a reasonable quote if using genuine/premium parts. Genuine/Premium brand coolers are between £200-300 pound, there are a couple of gaskets and bolts worth changing, along with the coolant.. so put £30-40 on for that Some of them, depending on the design are an absolute pain to fit and can be around 3-4hours worth of work, exhaust/dpf has to be removed etc. You will also need to be able to clear the codes etc if you plan on doing it yourself.

Hi, I only have access to the systems as I am in the industry, cost is around £264 per year. There may be free options available with a bit of digging. The switchable pumps are designed to decrease warm-up times and improve engine efficiency, it also means if the pump fails, it will only result in overheating and no timing belt damage. I believe SKF do a kit to convert from switchable to mechanical, however, it will result in increased warm-up times and probably more labour cost as it will require changes to be made. If it was me personally, I would stick with a premium switchable pump with a good warranty. If you are unsure which parts to buy, either let your mechanic order them or provide your VIN/Chassis number to your parts supplier, they can look it all up for you. A genuine pump and belt kit is around £180-200.

I managed to sort it in the end, same cover for the new customer price. The second person I spoke to was much more helpful and genuinely wanted to help, a welcome change for call center staff 😂 I really need to use the discounts on the app a lot more though, especially the 20% off food as it covers some of the chain pubs I use locally. It would probably pay for the breakdown cover in fairness.

Are these not the engines with the known camshaft issues? Just because the fuel components are not causing an issue, it doesn't mean something else isn't messing up the fueling. I personally would work through it methodically, firstly check the electrical side.. wiring, plugs.. the usual. Read live data for the main sensors (Temp sensors, Air Flow, Lambda and Position sensors) and make sure they are in tolerance, I have had cars with faulty EGR valves not show any codes or lights. Move on to the basic principles of Intake, Fuel, Exhaust... Inlet - Searching for things such as air/vac leaks, any unmetered air can cause rough running and starting issues, smoke tests/pressure testing is the best option. Does the inlet have swirl flaps, if so, do they operate? The actuator could may well work, but the ECU won't see if the flaps have failed. Throttle body.. to a basic reset and monitor the live readings. Fuel - Exhaust - Any leaks pre-sensor.. blocked cat... EGR stuck/coked up? If the engine is getting the basics of air & fuel and at the right time (sensors/timing), the rough running will be down to something internal so then you need to look at cylinder leakage tests etc. I haven't done many of the 1.9TDi's so some of the above may not apply, but it is the same basic principle.

The system shows it as the switchable pump for that engine, 04L 121 011 P is the original number which is now replaced by 04L 121 011 N

I think it depends on engine code, the last 1.6 TDI I worked on was the switchable pump. You can call your local motor factors and they will tell you, or if you drop me a message, I have access to the dealer systems and can give you the OE numbers. I think it was around £150 for the OEM pump/belt kit from the local factors.

1.2 TSi Engine, unfortunately not, the cars out of warranty as its a 2016 model 🙄

My partners car has a normal mechanical pump, it has only done 15k and needs replacing as it is leaking! I would have expected a lot more than that from it!

Those are the correct plugs, or you have the NGK version PLFER7A8EG. The NGK plugs are around £40 a set in the UK, Bosch a little cheaper at £30. The dry torque on the NGK units is 25-30nm so would expect Bosch to be similar.

I had a look at this earlier today, the Fabia isn't good value when put against a Polo. Just looked at a Polo Style - £20,785 base and £21,780 with the desired options, a matching Fabia SE L is £18,980 but needs around £3,000 in options to get close to the Polo... but the Polo does have a better spec overall.