MATT0693

Ouch!

Hi All, The water pump has started to leak on my partners car, the car has only cover 15k miles from new. There seems to be a lot of threads on various forums about it, so guess it is a common problem. Has anyone on here had the same issue and managed to get goodwill from the dealer? The car has been maintained religiously with genuine parts throughout. (Car is a 2016 1.2 TSi Polo - Same engine as the Fabia/Rapid)

In my opinion, if you avoid excessive amounts of water and you take care, there should be no issues. I like to cover things up purely because as cars age, seals and rubbers that are designed to prevent water ingress deteriorate. If you are just cleaning plastics, you could probably do them by hand. I use citrus wash, detailing brush to agitate and a damp cloth to wipe, then dry with another microfibre. Luckily my MK3 engine bay is mostly plastic anyway, so a quick wipe over once a month keeps it looking clean.

If you covered everything 'sensitive' up, use a low pressure water source and ensure it is dry after, It shouldn't be a problem. It really depends on what you are trying to achieve, if you want to clean the actual engine and is it coated in oil, grease and grime, water alone will be repelled and probably won't do much. I did mine with a dedicated engine degreaser and steam initially to clean all the general crap off, rinsed it using a handheld pressure sprayer to ensure accurate application. I now just give the plastics & hoses a wipe over once with a month with engine protectant.

Usually the chassis from 6Y-3-731255 are TRW units. If you want to PM me your reg number, I can get the genuine part number from the dealers for you.

I always advise gentle use for around 100 - 150 miles, if I have fitted them myself on a customers car I will go out and do a hand full of gentle stops 30-0 or 50-20 mph just to start the process. I was told by a Brembo rep that is is best not to 'over-heat' new pads because it can damage them, hence avoid heavy stops, towing caravans etc It will be different if fitting performance/track orientated pads, in which case check with the manufacturer

Date of Production: 13/09/2012 Engine Code: CEGA Transmission Code: NFN Paint Code: 9P/ F9E Here is the data sheet for options/spec.

Hi All, I had a letter through from my AA for my renewal, as usual it has gone up. I called them to negotiate but they are not willing to match the price they offer to new members (£18). I currently pay £19.19 for joint cover as a driver or passenger in any vehicle with the following: Roadside Assistance At Home National Relay The renewal is £36.19 but they will drop to £24... which they can shove! I can't fault the actual service from the AA, so I would like to stay with them if possible as i have never used the RAC. Anyone had any issues taking out another policy from the same address in the past?

I got these from opendoor LED.

I guess it depends on how cold the winter is going to be, the current availability is very good. There was a lot of demand earlier in the year, people had been working from home or furloughed resulting in a lot of cars sat with draining batteries. The industry knew the demand would be there once the restrictions lifted, once one or two suppliers lift pricing.. others follow. I know there was a bit of a dip in availability as manufacturers struggled to fulfil orders quickly, lead times almost doubled.. i guess reduced staffing/production rates during the pandemic was a huge factor.

Just found this on the Skoda site, spark plugs are not included. If you 100% haven't asked them to change the plugs, refuse to pay... if that doesn't work tell them to remove them and refit your old ones (they'll be in the bin)... they might then offer them as goodwill.

I guess the service plan will be Oil & Filter only, in most cases they will suggest add-ons. Additional filters and plugs tend to come under an 'inspection'. They will work on the basis 'If it doesn't say it is included, it isn't'... but did you ask them to change the plugs? If you didn't approve the work, they shouldn't have fitted them... therefore you can't be charged. It really does depend on what you agreed when you booked it in.

Air locks tend to be the result of a problem, failing coolant pressure cap, coolant leak, not being bled properly.... head gasket allowing combustion gas into the system etc. What engine do you have? Some of the TDI range suffer from water pump failure and this is an early symptom. I guess all you can do is keep an eye on it and see if the same issue happens again.

80k on a set of discs is good going! I will be changing mine soon and going for the painted units, I will probably replace the splash shields too. I have just had a look at TRW and both the 312mm and 340mm discs do not show as high carbon, how did you find out yours are? The 340mm units (DF6133S) in the screenshot attached have no mention of it in the specs, but other discs they list it as per the other screenshot.

Not a bad price that! I have fitted TRW discs many times, the only downside is some of them are not high carbon discs, whereas lesser competitors will offer it. Great discs other than that. I just ordered a set of Brembo 340mm discs & pads for a friends car, £168 all in but not sure if the pads come with all add-ons.

I guess it depends on your actual issue, if your coolant leak is external such as a hose, pump or radiator... the engine doesn't need to be stripped down. It would be the same if it was the oil cooler causing your issue, it is just a 'bolt-on' item that can be swapped in a few hours. If the issue is down to a head gasket or cracked head for example, then yes, it will need to be stripped/replaced.. some simple tests will determine the issue. It is a bit of gamble using the vehicle, oil in the water will reduce the coolant system efficiency... water in the oil will reduce the lubricating properties of the oil so bearings/turbos etc will start to wear quickly. An electric Enyaq is a good choice, much cheaper than a Tesla... better looking too!

I would say it could be the bulbs on the way out to be honest. Personally, I would change the bulbs and see if the problem continues, otherwise you could be chasing a fault that doesn't exist.

It sounds like the DPF is trying to do a regen, they do it periodically to keep the DPF clean and in good heath. (DPF's are not a fan of short trips) I would take the car on a good run down the motorway, once complete the revs will drop back to the normal idle speed. If the cycle keeps getting interrupted, you will end up with a light on the dash and you will need to take the car on a good run and keep the revs up to help clear it. I try not to interrupt the passive regens where possible, it can shorten the life of the DPF and they are not cheap to replace. Should you find the revs hold at 1000 even after a long drive, it could a be a sensor fault telling the ECU it needs to regen, in which case you need to get a garage to do some live data checks.

Black coolant is usually a sign of oil contamination, so it could be an oil cooler or similar. I would get it checked ASAP, oil in water/water in oil is not going to end well. It used to be a common thing on the Vauxhall 1.3 engines, I had to change a few engines where people had left it or not noticed.

Welcome! I am sure you won't be disappointed!

If the car has been used for loads of short trips with a cold engine then potentially, it depends if it has had time to do a routine regen. If you are buying from a dealer, they should be able to print out the DPF levels for you. My car is a 66 and i purchased it in January with 22k on the clock (full dealer history), I checked the DPF levels prior to signing for the car, luckily they were low as I guess it spent most of its time on the M6 😂 I haven't had any DPF lights to date, it will usually do an regen itself every 500miles or so. My car takes around 6-10miles to get reach operating temp, if your trips are often going to be short city trips then a petrol is best. I guess as they are similar in price, age and running costs, the next thing I would look at is condition and optional extras.

I have driven a 1.4 TSI Passat (close enough to the Octavia), personally I felt it was little underpowered. If you are going to have passengers and a boot full of stuff, I would go for the diesel or higher powered petrol model. It is worth checking what savings are to be had with the tax, fuel economy and servicing costs between the two cars. My diesel VRS is more expensive to run than my partners Polo TSI on a yearly basis (same mileage) due to tax, servicing and fuel costs.

I hear mixed reviews on the economy. The other half has a Polo TSI, the economy has been around 5% less on E10 fuel whereas others claim they have seen an increase. I don't mind though as her car is now getting the same MPG as my diesel 😂

I am using 5W30, changed every 5-6k (66 Plate) It is worth checking the technical data sheets across products, some will be mid-saps and others are low-saps and I have seen higher ash content in cheaper brands.

I asked this question on social media not long ago, Asymmertric 5' and Piliot Sport 4s seem to be the most popular. I need to change mine soon as it was supplied with ditch finders and i have no confidence in the car! Be good to see what people recommend.