UndertheRadar

30min

Its a long shot, but if anything managed to hit a body panel when disconnecting its possible it tripped a module somewhere along the system. If it was more than a trip you'd have found a blown fuse before now.

Have you tried a battery disconnect incase it has tripped a module? (I'm Assuming you don't have a diagnostic).

You'd need to mix it stronger anyway, even with the heated washers. I have them on mine and they're sh............ not awesome!!

Are you happy enough to post to N.I?

It runs in order. 1 then 2 then 3 then 4. The injector numbering should not be confused with the firing order of those injectors though. But if you have a scanner saying injector ? faulty, then *1 is first from left, *2 is second from left, *3 is third from left, *4 is fourth from left.

numbered from timing belt to flywheel. 1 is far left in pic, 4 is beside oil filler cap.

does the noise change when your cornering?

Rattles in doors on both sides of mine were from grill trim just above the door panel. I padded them very lightly. Just enough to stop them rubbing off the door panel. One of my other buzzing noises was coming from the clocks, where it meets the dashboard. Again, padded and refitted. To be honest, this car just seems to like making new noises, like it thinks I’m bored possibly.

That looks more like etching from bird ****. I’d leave it with them to sort, as I’ve seen marks like that before that just won’t come out completely.

Panel wipe the bonnet. Then touch them all in with your colour mix and a toothpick. Should key better and stand up to a power hose when washing.

The dry and shine is fine. I’ve my lot coated with race glaze pro ceramic. So all your doing is topping up a quick spray wax over the coating. Your not getting near the paint. You don’t want anything with any sort of abrasives in it. I use Rupes Uno protect every few months over mine. It’s applied with a white foam finishing pad at speed 1 on the DA. The main reason for this is to help maintain the longevity of the coating and to aid beading and self cleaning properties. some of those so called spray ceramics are a PITA as they streak when applied. The spray and shine is a simple spray on wipe off product that lasts well. Britemax spray and shine is another good product for this sort of use. Buy some very nice, very soft cloths. Spray on and apply with one. Go over with another clean one to wipe off. Then go over the entire car with a third when finished. That’s my procedure anyway. 👍🏻

Yes. Very much so. I’ll be using Autoskins N.I to do mine.

I’m still trying to arrange getting all my chrome wrapped in gloss black on my L&K. Just need the time. Maybe when the school holidays start.

Correct. They don’t classify wraps as a permanent colour change.

Something like this from strongman might be enough without the pit and the hassle of digging and fitting the pit liner.

This sort of thing. I don’t see why you couldn’t fit a half riser scissor lift over the top of one of these pits. They are expensive though. Maybe between £1000 and £1500. Then you’d have to buy a scissor lift as well. The lift might be enough on its own and takes up very little room if you just park the car on it in the garage.

You can get pit liners. I’ve seen them with connections built into the side walls for power sockets and you can spec them with a rolling lift beam built in. The only thing is, for similar money you could just buy a scissor lift and have the use of the pit and the capability of lifting the entire car to remove wheels etc.

I’m trying to get tickets for Dublin zoo next month. It’s maybe a long shot, but if needed and some of the crew would push the bike off the boat at this end. I can pick it up and get it at least that far for you when I’m going.

I was looking at a new rig as my pedal plate does bend a bit under braking, but I’m trying to get a hold of a set of T-lcm pedals first. I’m liking the look of the RS6 Mach 3 trak racer, but it’s harder to sneak into the house than a wheel and pedals. 😂

Not sure if anyone else plays any of the sim racing games on a wheel, but I’ve recently upgraded from a TX leather edition to a TS-XW racer with a Sparco P310 rim. The difference in steering feel and car placement is fantastic. I thought it might be a slight difference, but it’s absolutely night and day. It’s managed to drop over a second off some of my AC and Forza Motorsport lap times. Even WRC feels so much more connected. The kids have also noticed how much better it feels and how much easier it is to control cars in Forza Horizon games they play. So definitely worthwhile if anyone else is considering getting into these type of games or building a better rig. Also be interested to see what others are playing on if they already do enjoy a bit of sim entertainment, and hear their views on different rig set ups. Direct drive wheel anyone?

If you run the same wheels during the winter months it’s not really going to matter. Genuine centres take a kicking with the salt as well. All my winter rims have similar to your eBay link fitted, and at the price, I just replace every year when I change the wheels over.

As above. Remove the airbox and fit an open cone style filter intake.

Had the exact same issue. Fixed mine by removing the N/S/R tail light unit and silicone sealed around the inside of the cluster seal, to Seal any gaps between the seal and the bodywork. left it over night to dry once fitted again, and haven’t had any water in the boot since.

Trek seem to have a pretty stable reliability and quality record. Giant ships still be the largest manufacturer and design and make some very good and solid bikes and frames. Vitus seems to be the one I’d be cautious of. There are a high number of complaints online from various forums and groups showing broken rear triangles, that the company will not stand over or replace in a lot of instances. To the extent people call them Breakus or snapus.