UndertheRadar

Do you have pressure in the hoses or cold spots in the lower coolant hose. Have you checked your oil for contamination from a head gasket issue. The other item I’d look at would be water pump. do you have heat from the heaters?

Is it boiling or is it bubbling because it’s pressurising?

Thanks. Yes, told them what I was after and what is was for, and the guy I was talking to said it was built before he was born. Made me feel awesome😂. Everyone I’ve rang say it’s either the bay of evil or change to 9 speed. I might throw it down to the boys in mech monkey on the Boucher and see what they can do. After having it for about 25 yrs I’m not giving up on it.

I’ve opened and cleaned it that many times it’s just given up. There’s just no tension when trying to shift up and it’s just steadily become worse over the last couple of years. I’m limited for LBS over here at the best of times, and none would refurb. Maybe find somewhere on the mainland and see if they could sort it if I post it over to them. Thanks.

Check the grommet for the electrics coming from the door on the pillar. I’ve seen those getting dislodged sometimes when people have been cleaning in around the hinges as well.

The inner guard out is sometimes enough to get a better look. Normally I’d have found cars building up water in the scuttle area and overflowing into the footwell, or the drain channel blocked or leaking into the car from a sunroof and doing the same thing. An airline around the area can sometimes pin point the general location as it’ll push water through with a bit more force. Any bulkhead seals are also suspect. The one I found to cause the most hassle was the drain in the scuttle under the battery box in Vag cars. It then let water build up and run inside. The other area was door seals, but you’d have seen that dripping in while hosing with the carpets pulled back.

Does anyone have an idea where I might get a hold of a replacement 8 speed shifter similar to this other than the bay of evil? I don’t really want an old secondhand one with questionable usable life left due to the price some of these things fetch. It’s on an old Pro Flex that I keep running for nostalgic reasons so I don’t want to pay a fortune to sort it with unknown bits. Otherwise I might replace the entire setup and change it to 9 speed instead.

What are the drain channels like in the scuttle panel area. Any bulkhead seals not seated correctly? Sometimes it takes very little to block a channel and let the water build up under the windscreen cowling causing it to flow into areas it should never manage to reach.

Some of them have a fancy wee fitting to remove the sump plug from the plastic sumps. You can buy them in most places though as they are kind of popular. Langers2k beat me to it. 😂

I don’t do you tube and beyond uploading the way I did from my phone I don’t really bother with computers either. Beyond a diagnostic computer I’ve no real use for them in daily life unfortunately.

Just assume it’s shiny. 😂

I use one of these

I wouldn’t use any sort of paint correction on fresh paint for about 3 months after it was done. I’ve seen cars with a genuine and quality 9h coating still protected after 5-6yrs. Gizmos is a well known quality item, or I would use the RaceGlaze 9h coating as well. Or you can now get a 10h coating from Gtechniq as well that Ive seen give great results as well. Be careful of people claiming ceramic and adding a “ceramic” wax instead. A genuine coating will make your normal washing procedure an awful lot easier. Should have said, a genuine coating will be done inside and then require being left inside for at least 24hrs after application with an instruction not to wash the paint for at least one to two weeks afterwards. And a properly corrected car with a 9h then applied is ballpark £500-£600 depending on paintwork condition before starting.

I had a Westfalia detachable with 7pin and dedicated electrics fitted to mine for around £600

Brilliant. Thoroughly enjoyable and very interesting to watch.

Love those wee 45’s, especially De-badged and without the aero kit. They are some craic. Had a husky 250 years ago that tried to smash everyone’s ankle that tried to start it. Great yoke.

Mines generally in Normal unless it’s a very good bit of road and then it’s sport, as normal is still far too bouncy for most situations. I do find sport is far to harsh for most situations, as anything even close to an uneven surface just thumps and bangs like the shocks are dead. I have had one replaced on the front at about 14k and at just over a year old under warranty, as it started leaking. I’ve been waiting on a set of damptronics arriving but no sign of them as yet. So I’d say if you get a car with DCC and fit better shocks, it should be a better proposition then, than standard suspension. The oem’s in mine are monroe, so it is possible they could be stripped and adjusted to give a different level of absorption under each setting, but I’ve never bothered to look into it.

Apologies. In my haste to avoid anyone else being left with an unusable app I neglected to say it was on the apple App Store and using iOS. Sorry for the confusion!!

I can’t answer that, unless it’s a region thing. They put out 1.4.9 yesterday morning and it stopped the app working entirely. They must have been inundated with emails and complaints, as a new update came out later on last night which sorted the issue.

Just updated again with 1.4.10 and now all working again.

It’s going to depend on driving style, but I’ve seen them well covered with as little as 20k on them. 40-50k is probably a reasonable mileage for most people. Only way to do it properly is to have it walnut blasted IMO.

Updated mine this morning and it’s now just kicking back to the home screen whenever I try to open the app.

Taken in a filling station forecourt one night, when I was in buying a pie.

It’d be grand. Some folks need both.

We need a Yay emoji thingy.