UndertheRadar

I removed the 0w20 from mine and replaced it with 5w30 at the first service.

If you have someone near you with even an OBDEleven it will reset the services for you. My oil and inspection run at different intervals as well. I just reset both every year when I service the car. I run my own schedule, so the reminder is just a PITA anyway. the old minor/major/minor/major interval was a better system than this digital rubbish IMO, so that’s what mine gets, with haldex/dsg oil changes etc thrown in at whichever interval they occur during.

As above, it seems they’re asking for it to be serviced early. I did mine early as I’m just overly fussy, but we were able to add it to the online service system at my mates garage. the dealer won’t remove the pump and clean the gauze in most cases, they will just drop and replace the oil and hand it back to you. so you could have it carried out by a specialist as long as they can add it to the online service, or leave it until it’s 3yrs old instead.

Or maybe just “yes”

I’ve a failing front hub bearing in mine at the minute at 27k. I’ll be fitting a new one along with front B6’s at the same time. If interested I’ll let you know how the car rides after I get it sorted as it has DCC. think the B6 damptronics are about £300 each for the fronts. Rears haven’t arrived yet and still showing an April/May delivery.

They possibly used a trim restorer dye or similar just to hide it long enough to hand it over.

Has it had any paintwork on that door? it looks very like burn through from a polisher.

My new stoppers have arrived.

Had my rack replaced under warranty for a clicking noise when turning/shaking the wheel while stationary. Picked it up with the window down one day while parking and then realised shaking the wheel produced the issue as well.

I’m waiting until I’m fit enough to replace my suspension as I find the OEM DCC monroe setup to be horrendous at best, and then mines off to revo for the performance kit. Hopefully get it sorted this summer all being well.

Thanks. Since posting, I’ve looked at the soundform and a few others of similar type. I have removed and sold most of my Sonos speakers except for the play5 in the kitchen. Bought a H&K citation one and a citation 500 to make connection easier, and I think I will remove the connect altogether and replace with something like the soundform directly connected to my processor, to then allow it to power and run its own separate zones again with both my own music saved locally and the likes of Spotify as well.

Thanks. It was just luck that we bought a house years ago with a Corner site. I was able to use that to add the garage with a couple of rooms above so it’s all joined to the original part of the house. It’s handy now I’m slower and not just 100%. Means I can take my time or stop altogether without worrying about it sitting there.

Petrol here as well and I’ve had a new front ARB under warranty and the replacement greased during this summer while they were replacing the steering rack.

I used a rupes yellow wool pad on mine recently. Needed mostly 2-3 passes to remove wash marks using their own (yellow) fine cut polish. Finished with a soft (white) pad and Uno. Wiped down and then coated with raceglaze ceramic pro. The wool pad removed everything that the lights picked up from all angles. I spent a week and a half in the garage, so I checked each panel quite intensely. I normally use their foam pad, but for some applications their wool pad is absolutely fantastic. Might be worth a try if you want to lift your cut from the 70-80% you achieved.

Has anyone updated a Sonos connect with the likes of an AirPort Express or similar, to allow the use of airplay, and had good results?

Mine was doing the same thing on the N/S/R quarter. It was the tail light seal.

I removed my L&K badges on the wings along with all the boot badges as well. For me, it’s a much cleaner look and no hassle cleaning around or catching the badges when washing.

Have you checked under the scuttle panel first or glovebox/pollen filter area.

Mine has it.

Just coated and waiting to cure, so still in the garage, but came up not to bad.

OK, so recently had a new steering rack fitted under warranty, and wanted to drive the car and make sure of the results for a bit before I reported them. Had a slight click from the rack, which was only noticeable from outside the car and not heard at all from inside with the door closed. Shaking the wheel from about the 10 o’clock position to the 2 o’clock position produced the click. steering itself felt fine while driving and showed no real signs of having an issue. Anyway, and to the real outcome that surprised me. The rack has a noticeable difference for the better now while steering and feels much more precise in its input. But the main difference, is that the rack has completely transformed my suspension. It has gone from the horrendously crashy uncontrolled nonsense that I see reported all the time, to what you would swear under oath was a completely new setup. It is smooth all the time, and covers most road conditions with control and comfort. Gone are the brutal knocks and bangs over even the slightest deviation in the road. I couldn’t have even considered selecting sport mode before, and now it rides perfectly but with the usual change to travel and roll. In conclusion, the only reasoning can be, that the rack issue was having a knock on effect on the suspension settings. Possibly locking it out to a certain level, but without registering an issue and throwing codes or any sign of faults. It’s basically a suspension limp mode. thought it was worth mentioning due to others having reported severe suspension knocks and poor control issues with DCC as well.

Does comfort mode make it any easier for you to steer? I know ObdEleven allows you to set rack constantly in sport, but can’t remember if it can be adjusted the other way to constantly in comfort.

Not today, but picked up last night from dealer with a new boot cover, clock spring and steering rack. Thankfully all done before the warranty ran out.

I always fit EBC stuff once my OEM are needing replaced. Last few cars I’ve gone with BSD discs and yellow stuff pads.

I’m using these for the keyless vehicles in the house. Have been working well for quite a while now, whereas some of the pouches only lasted 3-4 months before allowing the signal to escape and unlock the car.