UndertheRadar

OK, so recently had a new steering rack fitted under warranty, and wanted to drive the car and make sure of the results for a bit before I reported them. Had a slight click from the rack, which was only noticeable from outside the car and not heard at all from inside with the door closed. Shaking the wheel from about the 10 o’clock position to the 2 o’clock position produced the click. steering itself felt fine while driving and showed no real signs of having an issue. Anyway, and to the real outcome that surprised me. The rack has a noticeable difference for the better now while steering and feels much more precise in its input. But the main difference, is that the rack has completely transformed my suspension. It has gone from the horrendously crashy uncontrolled nonsense that I see reported all the time, to what you would swear under oath was a completely new setup. It is smooth all the time, and covers most road conditions with control and comfort. Gone are the brutal knocks and bangs over even the slightest deviation in the road. I couldn’t have even considered selecting sport mode before, and now it rides perfectly but with the usual change to travel and roll. In conclusion, the only reasoning can be, that the rack issue was having a knock on effect on the suspension settings. Possibly locking it out to a certain level, but without registering an issue and throwing codes or any sign of faults. It’s basically a suspension limp mode. thought it was worth mentioning due to others having reported severe suspension knocks and poor control issues with DCC as well.

Does comfort mode make it any easier for you to steer? I know ObdEleven allows you to set rack constantly in sport, but can’t remember if it can be adjusted the other way to constantly in comfort.

Not today, but picked up last night from dealer with a new boot cover, clock spring and steering rack. Thankfully all done before the warranty ran out.

I always fit EBC stuff once my OEM are needing replaced. Last few cars I’ve gone with BSD discs and yellow stuff pads.

I’m using these for the keyless vehicles in the house. Have been working well for quite a while now, whereas some of the pouches only lasted 3-4 months before allowing the signal to escape and unlock the car.

I have a westfalia detachable on mine and a dedicated wiring kit. No issues with warranty, works on dash when towing etc. Think from memory it was about £600. Great bar!!

Thanks. Looked at that earlier but it’s part of the board and can’t be removed quickly. I’ll get a better look when fresh tomorrow, but possibly just as handy to fit a new controller so nothing else goes faulty as well. (Hopefully)

So, check all the wires for faults. No problems found. Ran a new core to the new motor just to be sure. Still the same tripping issue. Isolated the motors individually, still the same issue. I would have thought if a motor was causing an issue at least one of the gates would cycle individually. looks like it’s a control unit issue.

Thank you. I’m working on the theory that there a dead wire in the cable run from the controller to the motor caused maybe by the motor burning or shorting out in the first place. It’s about a 14ft run from one to the other, so after quite a few years it’s probably good practise to pull the underground cable out and replace it anyway. the capacitor has been replaced as a new one came with the replacement motor. Just need a rest before looking at it again, as even simple stuff is getting hard to think straight when doing recently.

Thanks. Had checked them already to be sure. That’s a pic I took before replacing the motor as I’d otherwise have no hope of replacing in the correct order from memory. They are replaced now much neater than they originally were by the fitters.

Do we have any automated gate technicians on the forum at all? I had a motor recently start to blow the main fuse in the control box, so I’ve replaced the motor. now it’s not tripping the fuse (was only 4 wires to fit the motor) but it’s tripping the controller and sparking in the breaker circled in the pic. next move (when the rain stops) is to replace the length of 4 core from the controller to the motor incase I’ve an issue there due to the motor going. normally sort this sort of thing myself but diagnosed a while back with a TBI and it’s not making things as easy as they used to be. Any help greatly appreciated. do I need to replace the control unit as well?

Revo do a dsg map as well to match their engine software. They did have a deal if you had them both done together which was £200 off the gearbox software.

I have a DTE PedalBox in mine for the last few years. Couldnt drive the car without it. The lag is now non existent. Fitted it as junctions were damn near dangerous to exit or enter. The app version made it easy to install and hide away under the dash, and still control the settings if needed.

As quick as you can fix one more seem to appear 😔. When you hear the rattle, use your finger to place a reasonable amount of pressure on the area and see what makes it stop. Normally the top grill on the dash, the centre vents in the dash, the info screen and the instrument cluster seem to be the main dash culprits. I’ve also fixed glovebox rattles and some more in both front door panels around the tweeter units in the top corners beside the door mirrors.

Front and rear, or just rear? My fronts been replaced twice under warranty and its rattling/creaking again. was going to replace the rear soon to help roll, but might pull both of them out and replace if I can get a positive review, as the fronts a tad more work to change out.

I always fit EBC to my own vehicles. been using them for more years than I’d like to admit. Only ever had one issue with pad material wearing away in less than 1000 miles on brand new brakes. Never found out why, and never happened again. In fact, I’d have bought some already for my current vehicle if they ever had any in stock for it. good brakes though, and no squealing.

The clay mitts are a good job, but I use them more as a maintance it’s during washes. A clay bar will dive a much better and cleaner finish IMO. I’ve been using these from the bay of evil for years and find them a good sized and very good quality bar. Never had an issue with marring either. I use them with a quick detailer as lube. good luck with the job when you get around to doing it. 👍🏻

On the Thrustmaster side of things, most people go for the t300rs for PlayStation compatability. The higher end tgt-2 is priced a bit silly, as it sits in the same region as the Fanatec DD. It’s a slippery slope though. Once you start, you just keep adding things. Shifter, handbrake and uprated pedals etc. Im not sure what stores you have available, but CEX in the U.K. normally has some used examples of the Logitech and thrustmaster sets in stock. They are a bit cheaper than new and come with a 2 year guarantee. The Thrustmaster items are well catered for in aftermarket modifications. There’s mods for the shifter to make it feel more realistic, and magnetic shifters for the wheels. There is also a multitude of mods for the brake pedal feel and stiffness adjustment. Its all really going to depend on how much you think your going to enjoy it and whether you think your going to get into it or not after you recover from surgery.

There are loads of panel wipes available on the market. The last one I tried was Krystal prep. Worked very well with no issues. Once you start getting that fussy over your paint, you need to consider the cloths your using, as even the slightest thing will line your finish before you can add any sort of coating.

The rupes lhr15 Bigfoot is a fantastic polisher. Makes detailing paintwork a lot easier on your body as it’s very refined during use. They also do a brilliant range of polishes and pads to complement the machine. most half decent led handheld lamps will show swirls. I have a few of different sizes and lengths for use with different panels.

Seats work with ignition on but engine off.

Have you looked into having the module repaired rather than replaced?

Sorry. Never thought you had a haldex, was just making the point that with my own vehicle I am more inclined to over service those items than let them run on or even make it to manufacturers recommended intervals, given the number of early failures I see on a daily basis. I’d take the 4yrs/40,000 as whichever comes first. Not, if it hasn’t made it to 40,000 by 4yrs, run it on until it does. the cost of an oil change versus a mechatronic (worse case) makes the servicing look reasonable. that’s the principle and basis for most of my mechanical reasonings. Cost to replace versus cost to maintain. Even my oil changes have been doubled. Now every 6months still with the best of oil used. Is it overkill? Probably yes!! But if I do have a mechanical failure of some description, at least I know it couldn’t be prevented and was going to fail anyway. Everyone has their own ideas on maintenance, but I would at the very least, recommend, meeting the recommended interval for the box regardless of low mileage.

I changed my haldex oil at 16k and nearly 2yrs old. I will be doing my DSG this year at short of 3yrs old, with around 21k on it. I have a habit though of moving service items up my own list depending on how important I believe some preventative maintenance will preserve the part in question. From memory, I believe the 381 box is 80,000 miles rather than the 40,000 recommended for yours, which seems to cause some confusion at times. The plugs in my 2.0tsi (272) had a silly service interval, but I’m not in front of the service system, so can’t look it up. Think it was either 60k or 80k. I do however remember making a mental note in my little overkill brain to change them every 4yrs.

Fitted a Quaife to my wife’s ST for the same issue. Absolutely night and day difference in the wet. Had Kuhmo’s on my last motor and they were deadly in the wet. Fitted Michelins and it was like a different car.