UndertheRadar

H&R

Sounds like the latch could be faulty.

Don’t let them tell you they’ve never seen it before. I’ve seen some that exploded while the car was being driven. You should find some more info with a simple google search.

That’s the only fans account your thinking of. 😂

Well done buddy. Unbelievably good stoppers!!

You’ll be walking like John Wayne in the morning. 😄

I don’t think they all come with them as standard.

It shows the video on my phone just fine.

Mine was doing the same but was front roll bar bushes. You could grease the bushes and see if it stops or get them to replace under warranty. I had my entire front bar replaced by the main dealer. It’ll go again and is a common vag issue. Only way to cure for good is polly bush it.

Looks fine to me. Rover used to have a couple of colours years ago they listed as blue, that looked a lot more like green. I’d maybe think about treating the corrosion with something like aqua steel before touching it in.

Yes. Older gen 1 units got the iridium ix plugs going a step colder. I’ve fitted rs7 plugs as well which help, but the last few sets of the ngk performance plugs I’ve fitted for people have really smoothed out the throttle response. Not that there’s much wrong with it in the first place. It’s just a noticeable difference afterwards. They do stock up to stage 1, and from stage 2 on you change the last 8 to a 9 for a further up rated set.

Mines due its 2yr service in a few months. I’ve a set of NGK R7438-8 plugs sitting here to go in it at the same time. Like the iridium ix fitted to the older gen units, they do give a smoother and faster response under throttle.

I’ve seen VOR’d back order parts arrive within a few days on many occasions. 👍🏻

My wife’s focus st was horrendous for axle tramp until I fitted a Revo rear mount to stop engine flex. Very slight difference in NVH levels but generally not noticeable. Wondering if a front uprated roll bar would help your issue as well.

I bought the pro kit so it allows for long coding and it’s handy to keep at home for simple tasks. You use credits for tasks such as service light might be 10 credits, or handbrake service mode, another 10 etc. Adaptions can be more if you use the auto function. So say 10 for rear drl’s active, or 100 for road sign recognition. If you open the app every day, you get one free credit and you can watch short adds to get another 5. I’ve saved up over 800 credits since Christmas and I doubt I’ll need very many of them.

My wife is in her second Ford. Had an S Max for just over 8 years from new, and never had a single issue with it. She is now in a Focus St 250 estate, and apart from a faulty steering rack (faulty from factory when new) it has been utterly reliable as well. Drives well, handles well, has a great usable boot and is way more adapt at controlling road surface imperfections than most people would expect.

It means it’ll go faulty after the first update and the battery will die.

Like myself, they all seem to use apple products. I use them as I find them easier to work. Given away by the fact I had to google the meaning to half your reply 😂. I’ve one neighbour who can do it with ease, but he’s rarely home as he’s generally stationed abroad for most of the year and only back at holiday times. Seems unfair to ask him to do it when he’s home to see family. unsure whether as my eldest gets older if she might need one for the last few years of secondary school. I’ve sort of been hoping seeing as it’s now 2021 that Thrustmaster would make their products comparable with Mac OS, but no joy.

Thanks. It’s literally only ever going to be used for updates on the wheel,pedals,haddbrake and shifter units. Haven’t had it done since the new console came out, and it just doesn’t feel right on kerbs and corners. Probably needs an update and new calibration settings to comply with the new software in the console. I’ve a computer store not far away that does recon units with 2yrs warranty and windows 10 with ssd etc, starting at about £150ish. So that might be my best bet.

Thanks. I have an older iMac that more or less gets used as a back up for photos, music, phones etc and acts as a server for the Sonos stuff dotted about the place. I was always dubious of putting anything windows related near it as I don’t use it enough to know what I’m doing. I had to add a handbrake to the sim setup and a neighbour did the software for me last time, but he’s stationed on the mainland and not home that often. Thrustmaster just told me it wasn’t Mac comparable. Ill google the suggestions you’ve provided and see if I understand any of it. Appreciate the help.

Would anyone have a recommendation for a cheap laptop. I’ve been thinking of upgrading my wheel and pedal set on the sim for a while to a Thrustmaster TS-XW and a set of T-lCM pedals, but they both need updated and calibrated using windows software. As I have nothing but iOS products in the house I was going to buy a cheap secondhand laptop to cover these duty’s as and when needed. Given my reluctance to take any interest in anything computer related, I am at a complete disadvantage as to what I should be looking for, make, model or software etc. Any help much appreciated. I’ll also be at a disadvantage as to how to use it, but that’s a different hurdle 😂.

It’s been taking turns between summer sunshine and blizzard here all day.

I did the same thing to get the spec. I’ll be getting mine de-chromed in a few weeks when things start to open up again. Should change the look enough without losing the extras.

Is it getting fuel? Sounds like a pump fault or maybe a blocked fuel filter issue.

Well done. Lovely looking day here, but it would skin you outside. Went out with the dog and thought I was going to lose some bits before I got back. Bikes staying in the garage. 🥶