fr1nklyn

Yes, at least two seems reasonable. This will avoid rim moving. They are like €10-15 for a pair.

I like the black trim more, but never had one on a car. Not sure is this an option while purchasing? I know that the chrome one is defective on many non-FL Superbs - it's peeling off on the rear doors, but not on the front ones. There are many Superbs like that and Skoda claims it's from washing the car with incorrect products. Shame on those people washing only half of their cars

Dry - I never lube the bolts since that may change the actual torque I try to set.

What what, are you pushing the wheel with your feet to the hub while turning the bolts with extension with your hands? You seems to be very flexible. Sorry I asked ChatGPT to draw it for me, but it draw the man beside the tire, not in front of the tire. (I might asked to draw it like 5 y.o. :D ) PS: Sorry I'm just fried at the end of the week. I'm losing it...

Yeap, but thought that it might be helpful to someone facing the same issue.

While looking for tire positioning pins, I found that there are conversion kits to wheel studs like in this video https://youtu.be/Crlu_HfyHeI?is=8QdW8nWgBk9r1lcZ It looks so much easier with them. I know most of the Asian cars have them.

I'll definitely get a pair for the next swap! :) I usually have someone holding the tire and helping me, this why I haven't faced such issues before, but I'll be prepared for the next time.. I was able to contact the Skoda garage and booked for the next week.

Ok, I’ve lifted the car and removed the other 4 bolts, then removed the problematic bolt by hand with a ratchet while the weight of the wheel was pushing it out. The bolt thread is damaged a little but also the thread of the hub somewhere deep inside. I don’t see issues with the hub thread visually but when I tried to turn a good bolt, it’s still spinning at the end and I can’t torque it to 120 Nm..

Yeap, learned that lesson the hard way.. I actually knew about that but couldn’t hold the tire while turning the first bolt carefully by hand, so used the impact wrench.. I had to take a fella maybe or iluse one of those bolt pins(not sure how are they called) which conveniently hold the tire while you put the bolt in. EDIT: These pins I’m talking about are called “tire positioning pins”, e.g. https://share.temu.com/paetW1bQ34B

(sigh) I swapped my winter tires with summer ones, both being on separate wheels. I used impact wrench to tighten them. Then when all were done I tried to torque all wheel bolts to 120 Nm, but one of the bolts keeps turning. Most likely the thread is bad - either on the bolt itself or the hub. All other bolts are torqued properly but this one.. I tried to remove it but I couldn't, so I tighten it again (maybe that was stupid from my side). The car is still under warranty but the dealer will most likely book for after few weeks since it's that time of the year when everyone changes their tires. They don't answer on the phone, I'll try tomorrow again. Wondering should I check with a tire shop instead? Or should try my luck to remove the bolt, by first removing the other 4 bolts on that wheel and then use the impact wrench on the problematic bolt? If it's only the bolt thread not the hub, I'll be very happy guys, but should I try or better don't touch anymore.. ☹️

It shouldn't cause any harm, but if it's about to be serviced next month, don't bother yourself - ask them to do it while servicing.

Why don't you try DSG adaptation? Indies and dealers usually skip this step, as it's not mandatory unless there is an issue or mechatronic is replaced, but many report good results after it's done(including me on my ex-Octy):

I've used many fuel additives: Bardhal BDC, ProTec, Castrol diesel additive, Archoil 6900 and Oilsyn Power DNA, and even 2T ashless oil in my old pump duse diesel :D . In my head, Archoi and Oilsyn seems to quite the engine and make the DPF regenerations less often, but again this is in my head.. 🤓 I've also had good results with Archoil 6400 on a car with blocked DPF due to too many short journeys. It seems to increase the exhaust temperature and actually work in such cases, but I wouldn't use it if there are no DPF issues.

@nuasiekieer , guys, I've talked to a friend of mine with indie shop who said the mechatronic plug should NOT be removed on neither older or newer revisions of the DQ381. I'm telling you this because you said you will do it yourself. I don't want to break your car. Only the main drain plug is required to be removed for regular DQ381 servicing. The mechatronic plug is removed only if the gearbox needs to be rebuilt. You should be able to drain 5,5-6.0L of gearbox oil while servicing, and 7L if you're fully rebuilding the gearbox. There are few important things you should follow to correctly adjust the oil level: The car should be level The gearbox oil temperature should be 35-45 C when adjusting the oil and engine should be running(start it once the 6 liters of oil is already filled in!) If your DQ381 is older revision, your overflow pipe will be light/beige and you should loose it 2 turns to correctly adjust the oil level If your DQ381 is newer revision(2020/2021+), your overflow pipe will be red and you should NOT loose it to correctly adjust the oil level (it seems that the beige and red overflow pipes have different length )

Ahh yes, fair point @Bap33 ! This is exactly what they did - on DQ250 (DSG6) there is only 1 drain plug as you say. So most likely mechanic assumed this DSG box is the same and drained only the clutches part oil . Here is a picture from google showing both drain plugs https://www.reddit.com/r/AskMechanics/comments/1qihx4q/can_someone_confirm_the_location_of_my_7_speed/

Is it possible that the mechanic drained the gearbox while the car was running? While 4 liters might be enough for the service, manufacturer states that 6 are required. I would be asking was the maintenance properly done.

@Swervin_Mervin Actually - any of the latest revisions should not have silica bag in it, e.g. 5Q0 121 407 T from this post https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/475223-expansion-bottle-replacement/page/9/#findComment-5457309 So if you're buying it from a Skoda dealer, you may ask them.

5Q0 121 407 AA - yes, change the coolant to G12Evo

Continental recommend change interval between 100k-150k km and claim their belts can last up to 10 years. Gates recommend the same mileage interval but time interval is 4-6 years(depends on the model). So one should be on the safe side with 5-6 years and 100-120k km. I think similar intervals for coolant will be reasonable.

She hasn’t since 2024 @TimmyB

I have Car Scanner with BT adapter from Amazon and it has everything needed for servicing the car: electronic brake service mode, oil change interval, haldex pump priming, DSG adaptation and reads all the sensors on the car. For €10-15 for Pro version and €25-30 for a good BT dongle, it’s a great tool. Plus it works on iOS and Android and you don’t have to bring your laptop all the time.

It’s cleaner than mine when I took it from the dealer 🤣

I think somewhere in the Škoda manual, it says that you should always use the spare wheel on the rear for safety reasons. So even if you have a puncture on a front wheel, you should remove a regular rear wheel and put it on the front. Then put the spare wheel on the rear.

If you have VCDS, you can try to adapt the gearbox, following these instructions https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/495734-very-smooth-dsg-gears-switching-after-vcds-adaptation/#findComment-5562761

I'm using the same stuff - twice twice an year. I haven't used clay bars so far, but I may consider using it before next waxing I usually do before the summer.