fr1nklyn

From what I know, EA288 uses a low-pressure EGR system that draws exhaust gases from after the DPF. This means the recirculated gases are cleaner (soot filtered out), which significantly reduces intake and valve carbon deposits compared to the older EA189 and PD engines. And with the twin dosing SCR in the newer generation EA288 Evo engines, the carbon build-up should be reduced even more. PS: I had similar concerns when I was about to purchase my current Scout TDI 147kw with EA288 Evo engine due to the lack of availability of the petrol version for this trim, in the period I did the order.

Changed the oil today - thank God there is T25 torx you can unscrew on EA288 Evo engines, to move the lower water pump away of the oil filter draining path. So much easier and less messy compared to previous EA288. I’ll try to stick with 10k kms or 350 engine hours between oil changes. I’ve put Ravenol 0w30 VSW this time. Last time dealer used Shell 0w30 AV-L. Both are great oils, no complains.

I'm wondering how they're going to do this when the mechatronic itself is in oil? 🤔 It shares the same oil with the DSG clutches. Or am I in mistake and there is a way this to be done?

Ahhh ****, I did this twice in my driving experience - approx 15 years with diesels. They need to completely drain the tank and change the fuel filter. Then to inspect the fuel filter for metal shavings. The main problem with the petrol in the diesel engines is the lack of lubricity in it. In the non-CR diesel engine I would add small amount of 2T ashless oil, but in the modern ones - no. A decent mechanic should check the values of low and high pressure fuel pumps( the one in the tank and in the engine bay). Also listen for whining noises from HPFP. Injector values as well. 3-4 minutes most likely didn’t cause any issues, but triggered errors for sure. So maybe clear them, drive from cold to fully warm engine and see are there new errors. Injector values should be check when cold and once again after the engine reaches operating temperature. Good luck 👍

I personally am from the lucky guys and have to top up only 0,5l per 15k kms as well. 40k kms on the clock now. But I've read for many other guys with the same engine 2.0 TDI 200hp on Passat, Superb and Kodiaq who experience high oil consumption. @Gabbo has started a discussion thread about the same topic in the Superb Mk3 forum https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/524536-tdi-official-oil-consumption-limits/

@Paulws1953 I see there is this garage with good Google reviews around your place https://essextuningltd.co.uk/dpf-cleaning-bury-st-edmunds/ I don't know are they really good, but you can give them a call and ask for diagnostics(not for cleaning directly). They need to reset the DPF values after cleaning if they do the cleaning and then force regen to allow the system adapt to the new pressure sensor values. Some DPFs are totally blocked or damaged, and you cannot clean them, from what I know. In this case you can search for second hand part, e.g. on eBay, but you will need the part number of yours.

Archoil 6400 is pretty good additive for clearing the accumulated soot from the DPF, especially when the regens were interrupted many times and/or the car was driven mainly for short journeys. BUT this is not your case. Most likely, your DPF has accumulated ash not soot because it reached its end of life, looking at the miles you’ve driven the car. Could also be a pressure sensor reporting incorrect values.

If you’re going for a second hand, try to get one from low mileage car and service the diff with good oil.

I personally would change the oil on my DQ381 at 40k and the filter, which is on similar location but pointing forward(horizontally), not up(vertically) like on DQ250.

Don’t worry about the DPF. Most if not all 0w30 oils meeting the 507.00 standard are “low-saps”. 507.00 allows up to 1.5% ash content. If the oil also meets the ACEA C3, it means no more than 0,8% content. Just let the DPF complete the regens, especially when the dash light is on.

The car is coded, otherwise if the AdBlue range is 0 you cannot start it.

Most likely they have updated this then. Apologies for the confusion. I used to drive VW Up! Electric for few months and my wife complained about this several times while driving behind me with the kids. It’s good that these went through regulations and it’s now fixed.

These error codes are in very different modules. Could be an electrical fault and/or car battery dying. Are you still using the factory fitted battery?

That one-pedal driving doesn't trigger the brake lights like when you press the brake pedal to slow down, until the very end when you actually press the break pedal. Just have this in mind.

It's common for the DQ381 on cars before 2020/2021 to have issues with clutch position sensors in the mechatronics. But this is shot in the dark, it requires proper diagnostics by another place as others suggested.

Do you have another Android device to test with by any chance? It could also be from the device which broadcasts the stream instead of the Skoda display representing the image.

That looks soo nice :)

Yes, yes, they say the same for the water pump 🤣

Which means I’ll try to do while still under warranty 😅

Thanks for the info @chrisgreen ! I’ll check it next time I visit the local dealer. But the price doesn’t look very nice 😕 https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/3v9061163-double-sided-boot-mat-skoda-35837.html I’m also unsure what would be the case in which I would use the carpet side? 🤔

You did well to order aftermarket boot liner - the OEM one is from something like thin plastic and looks cheap. I ordered one when I purchased the car, expecting to get rubber liner like on my previous car Octavia 3.

Did the second service today on 20k: Oil change All filters Haldex oil w/o filter cleaning, I’ll do it on the next service Brake fluid (maybe it was a bit early for this) And finally cleaned it inside and outside.

@GreenGeorge 2023 should be with G12Evo coolant which is purple. Unless it has done 100k miles for less than 2 years, it should be with the factory coolant. I’m not sure are the water pumps still failing on the Facelift S3, but if the car history doesn’t include it, most likely it wasn’t changed. Of course there is always a chance that someone has topped up the wrong coolant, but there is no easy way to find this out. Ask the dealer how much does it cost to change the coolant for the peace of mind or negotiate it in the final price. There are 10-12 liters if I recall correctly with many circles and it requires diagnostics.. changing it is a pain in the neck 😆

Traffic is just horrible in the capital. I get 8-10L/100km from 2.0 TDI 200hp.. :/

I used oil pump extractor but this is what I have. You can also use turkey baster or similar tool, whatever you have. You can't suck everything as some of it goes down the pistons which is the purpose of it. No, you don't add any oil in the chamber. The injector cleaner you put in the spark plug holes will contaminate the engine oil. This is why you have to change the oil soon after the procedure. The insulting moment on the petrol engine was starting the engine after the procedure. Some more deposits and debris were softened after I put the spark plugs and tried to start the engine. Which ended up on staining the electrodes and the car couldn't start. I had to remove the plugs and torch the electrodes to burn the soot a little. Then I was able to start the engine after several attempts. Finally I changed the oil and put new spark plugs. But this shouldn't be an issue on a diesel since it ignites the fuel through compression and glow plugs are mainly used for preheating the combustion chambers.