fr1nklyn

It really depends how old the engine is and on what maintenance plan was it. Extended oil change intervals with combination of a lot city driving causing many DPF regens and oil dilution.

+1 for Yuasa. I would pick whatever has the longest warranty.

I had the same issue on my MK3 Pre-FL and if I recall correctly there was a newer seal version which costed a lot. So Just made few more bigger holes at the bottom part the seal and cleaned the factory ones. Never had such issues after that. I have to mention also that my rear doors are often opened by the kids.

No one can tell you for sure. But if it’s not burning oil and you like the car, drive it and continue to maintain it well.

Ahh sorry you’re right. There is a forum thread about DQ200 issues for UDS protocol, check this post which describes how to reset the basic settings https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/18874/#post-166806

@Gammyleg I haven’t done adaptation on DQ200. Try to follow the instructions on Ross-Tech site http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/7-Speed_Direct_Shift_Gearbox_(DSG/0AM)

A bit of her, just before some winter adventures 😋

Hey guys, another option is to use 3-seat bench. I have a friend with M3 and his 3 kids fit inside perfectly. It looks safer for me than using the upper tether point. It looks quite neat as well

Yes, poly bushes need to be lubed annually. Those on the Superb are regular rubber ones but still need to be lubed every 1-2 years depending on the how long the grease remains there. Use the silicone grease if you have it already. I think you'll need a syringe or some else to inject it inside the rubber bushing hole. The silicon spray won't last long, I believe. I use it on the door seals to prevent freezing during the winter. The silicone is washed out for 2-3 weeks and I need to apply it again.

I hope I’m right, but we cannot be certain. Anyway, it’s a cheap solution. Try to use silicone paste or white lithium grease. Otherwise you may ruin the bushes. If I recall correctly, there are small holes on one of the sides of the bushes, where you should apply the grease. You may try with syringe. Btw creak could also be the shock absorbers..

My guess is the front lower control arm bushings. They are known to make creaking sound especially when it gets colder outside. Mine were greased(yes, not replaced..) under warranty on the Octavia and as far as I know same issue affects also Superbs

Btw the second hand alloy wheels seems to be cheaper than 17 inch steel ones 😂 Especially if you’re looking for a single rim..

@MartiniBAhh you’re right - I forgot about the rim width.. So I still see an issue with the spare kit with either 17” and 18” options. As you mentioned, the 18” space saver kit doesn’t fit on the standard 18” rim. I’m pretty sure 16” spare kit will fit on the 205/60/17 tire with standard rim.

Hello guys, I’m following this thread with interest and had read @MartiniB’s original thread as well. I’m wondering, wouldn’t the 195/55r18 tire be the best option for cars coming with 18” space saver 125/70r18? (like the 4x4 Scout that I have) If the tire of the space saver can be replaced, it will mean that not only the diameter will be optimal, but also the spare kit will fit inside. Also no foam cutting will be required and the trunk floor won’t be lifted. The space saver remains mystery for me: is it a tire with special compound? What about the high inflation pressure it is required for those tires?…

No worries at all then. Happy holidays

Ahh that could be the case for UK, yes. Thanks @Rooted!

I agree with @Bap33- wrong engine oil is used. It won’t harm much but I would change it earlier. 2.0 TDI 184/190/200ps require oil meeting VW 507.00 standard. VW doesn’t sell 5w30 OEM oil meeting this standard anymore but only 0w30. And you could still find many non-OEM 5w30 oils meeting this standard, the standard is what you should watch for when buying an oil for your car. Unless you live in really cold climate. BTW mine is 200ps TDI Evo engine and still uses VW 507.00 oil(0w30 from the factory), while the 150ps version of the engine from the same year requires oil meeting 509.00 standard, which are only 0w20 oils, I believe.

As you already mentioned, it could be the waterpump. It’s well known issue. Very unlikely to be a cracked cylinder head or gasket unless the car has been overheated. It could also be the egr cooler, some folks in Bulgarian forum had such issue. You could ask a local garage to check for leaks around the pump.

Hey guys, a friend of mine have wonderful 18” 8J OZ wheels for me but with ET38 and inner hub 66. Do you think I can use them as a winter set? ❄️ I will need hub adapters from 66 to 57.1 but what I have doubts for is the ET they have. Skoda recommends ET 43-46 for Superb 3 Scout.. 🤔

Great to hear that you got no charges. I'm pretty sure you got lucky BTW what mats did you buy? I bought the regular rubber one and it's a bit rubbish and cheap. And it's the OEM one. My Octavia III's OEM boot mat had much better rubber quality and lower board around the corners, looking much better. I guess I had to take the double-sided one https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/en_CZ/double-sided-boot-mat-superb-iii-limo/p/3V5061163

Yes, usually it isn't something hard but may require tools like brake piston rewind tool in order to assemble everything back. IMO see isn't it dust/small rock stuck between pad and disc. Try to brake harder few times on safer places, e.g. going downhill in neutral gear and breaking also does the job. That will use the brakes fully without engine braking. Then if it's not maybe visit the local garage to do the greasing job, if you don't have the piston rewind tool. BTW is it front or in the rear? Can you determine is it only on one if the sides?

It could be many things, but I would look at the pads myself if the wheel allows - no need to remove the wheel, just use the light from your phone and observe that there at least few millimetres of pad's contact area with the disc. There could be a small rock between pad and disc which may also cause noise. Or pad "ears" where it slides in the caliper may need some greasing. Usually that grease is washed out by rain/snow/mud/etc with the time. I would also grease the slide pins if I do the pads. Last but not least, if the noise remains for few more seconds after you release the brake pedal, the caliper may be stuck or held.

NOK means Not OKay

Sounds like it never betrayed you That’s what I’m looking at right now. I hope that it will work with the latest updates. @numskull I lost connectivity of both my cables connected to my Mac today after upgrading to the new Sonoma OS patch: one is USB-C for an Android and the other Lightning for iPhone. Both cables are not-Apple certified.. 😕 I can’t even charge my iPhone with the Lightning cable anymore using external adapter, most likely because I also updated my iPhone as well.

Hello guys, I've recently found that in the latest updates Apple block third party cable manufacturers. In the same time I see that Apple offers also Belkin cables in their side, so maybe there are exceptions Belkin BOOST Charge BTW S3 FL comes with USB-C ports right, no USB A anymore? Sorry I'm still waiting for my car, but am about to order cables for the Mac, so why not combine it with some more for the car. So my question is what cables do you use? I'm looking for something a bit more bulletproof than the OEM Eco-friendly cables which degrade after an year..