fr1nklyn

Yes, usually it isn't something hard but may require tools like brake piston rewind tool in order to assemble everything back. IMO see isn't it dust/small rock stuck between pad and disc. Try to brake harder few times on safer places, e.g. going downhill in neutral gear and breaking also does the job. That will use the brakes fully without engine braking. Then if it's not maybe visit the local garage to do the greasing job, if you don't have the piston rewind tool. BTW is it front or in the rear? Can you determine is it only on one if the sides?

It could be many things, but I would look at the pads myself if the wheel allows - no need to remove the wheel, just use the light from your phone and observe that there at least few millimetres of pad's contact area with the disc. There could be a small rock between pad and disc which may also cause noise. Or pad "ears" where it slides in the caliper may need some greasing. Usually that grease is washed out by rain/snow/mud/etc with the time. I would also grease the slide pins if I do the pads. Last but not least, if the noise remains for few more seconds after you release the brake pedal, the caliper may be stuck or held.

NOK means Not OKay

Sounds like it never betrayed you That’s what I’m looking at right now. I hope that it will work with the latest updates. @numskull I lost connectivity of both my cables connected to my Mac today after upgrading to the new Sonoma OS patch: one is USB-C for an Android and the other Lightning for iPhone. Both cables are not-Apple certified.. 😕 I can’t even charge my iPhone with the Lightning cable anymore using external adapter, most likely because I also updated my iPhone as well.

Hello guys, I've recently found that in the latest updates Apple block third party cable manufacturers. In the same time I see that Apple offers also Belkin cables in their side, so maybe there are exceptions Belkin BOOST Charge BTW S3 FL comes with USB-C ports right, no USB A anymore? Sorry I'm still waiting for my car, but am about to order cables for the Mac, so why not combine it with some more for the car. So my question is what cables do you use? I'm looking for something a bit more bulletproof than the OEM Eco-friendly cables which degrade after an year..

Good morning, fellas! There is 20% discount on all OEM parts today with code BLACK20 As a I reminder check postage terms and conditions to your location. PS: I'll get some rubber mats and child seat protectors for the car which hasn't arrived yet

This is your first post.. Did you really registered only to say that? ------ Anyway, I've never had any issue with them. They have regular discounts and even without them, OEM parts are ~15% cheaper than my local dealer. Yes, I'm not located in UK. The only drawback for me is that I have to make orders over 200 euros to get a free shipping. But yeah I'm living in a small country from which, I guess, they don't receive many orders.

It works but it’s too tight, or I’m overthinking it

Isn’t the O3 key battery CR2025? Mine is pre-FL model 2016 and when I tried CR2032 battery I noticed that it pushes the plastic too much and causes the chip to bend, that’s why moved back to factory size CR2025. This could also be the cause for the issues.

Also have in mind that higher speed rating means better handling and cornering, but less comfort. So if you don't break the speed limits, go with the H or V speed rating. For the load index you don't need more than 91-94 as @Carlston already said.

+1 for what @Carlston said. And the tires are much cheaper in that size compared to 18”, so you can pick a nice brand on a good price.

To the toot’s questions I would also ask, how often do you change that oil? What is its color currently? And did you check for leaks? If no leaks are observed, it could be due to many things like carbon buildup, bad PCV valve, stuck or worn out oil rings. Last but not least, try to change the oil to a bit better synthetic. Millers, Ravenol, Amsoil, RedLine, whatever you have around you on a good price..

1. Carefully pull the grille around the fog light with your hands(no bolts) 2. Undo the T25 torx screws holding the actual fog light 3. Unplug the wire harness from the fog light 4. Change the bulb - type H8 for non-vRS, H16 for vRS model 5. Watch the video for instant courage boost

Following the tread, I would also buy some stickers if available

I had sticking turbo on my 1.9 Pump-Duse TDI Audi A4 in the past and cured it with Archoil DPF and turbo cleaner, and then blocked the EGR. Not very eco-friendly solution.. Something I wouldn't do now. My car used to enter in limb mode once in a while so I added it and drove hardly above 2500-3000rpm until the tank was almost empty. Then blocked the EGR(and EGR cooler I think?) and after that I started to use Archoil's and Miller's diesel fuel additive. BTW I still use the Archoil's fuel additive every tank as the Miller's is hardly available after Brexit. Maybe it\s not helping much, but at least makes the engine quieter with less vibrations according to the cheap Skoda interior . Also it's much cheaper than the Premium Diesel.. I used to add 2T ashless oil in my pre-PD TDI engine some years ago and the result was the same.. But I don't have balls to add it in a CR TDI

@Penpusher Mudflaps are actually a great idea! I'll try to find a installation guide and most likely retrofit those on the Scout as well. Aren't they noisy, or being that low on the car and behind the tires doesn't make any difference?

Yes, that's normal ICE oil consumption. I'm talking about much worse oil consumption on some of these CUPA engines. You just decrease the chance to have such issue by avoiding this engine code, IMO.

Hey Guys, I'm thinking about replacing my O3 Pre-FL Scout with Superb FL Scout. The dealer gave me a good loan offer for it due to the clearance of Superb 3 model(Superb 4 is coming). My O3 is perfect on 100k miles(160k km) and I'm sure I'll be very happy with the Superb as well. I wanted 280TSI engine but there wasn't such option as only 3 Superbs were left for ordering.. So will continue the TDI saga (200TDI). I've never dealt with AdBlue, but looking in YT, it's not that hard to refill it without dealer's help. Should I use the OEM AdBlue or it doesn't really matter? It will also have Virtual Cockpit, ACC, alcantara seats, Virtual pedal and some others I don't count as important I already have few accessories on my wishlist * Front and rear rubber mats * Rubber boot mat * Phone/Tablet holders for backseats, for the kids * Anything else? Most likely I'll pick it in January, so I'll need winter tires. I was thinking about all-season tires, but assuming I'll go on skiing, better having a set of winter rims and tires as well. So yeah, count it as introduction of myself

1L per 15k km is absolutely fine and normal. Nothing to worry about. Some CUPA owners claim 1L per 2000km.. 😕

Yes, this won’t guarantee you a perfect used car, but will definitely decrease the risk of major issues. What’s your engine code and service history?

You can find some complains in the following two threads, and this is just example..

You can always use - faucet handle as shown on the picture 😃 Or buy only the leather side covers and top one from Aliexpress https://a.aliexpress.com/_mKOoWYi

Hey, I’m driving a Scout which uses the same engine used in the diesel VRS. It’s pretty reliable unless bad maintained with long service intervals and/or incorrect oil used. Not sure does your 59’ plate have a DPF, but those EA288 ones in MK3 usually regen every 120-200 miles city driving and 300-400 highway. Depending on how the car is driven, the DPF may need cleaning/replacement if the car is on more than 100-150k miles. Avoid first 184 TDIs with engine code CUPA as they tend to burn some oil if the car has been on extended service intervals. Mine is CUNA on 100k miles and is great so far(knock on wood). I use some Archoil fuel conditioner every now and then, but not sure is it necessary at all. Some folks here say that a tank of premium diesel every 3-4 tanks of regular one is enough to keep the injectors and fuel system clean.

VRS has more bells and whistles, plus lower suspension, two nice looking exhausts where one of them is fake.. but still looks better than standard trim and even L&K. If I were you I would pick 2.0 TDI due to the better gearbox reputation and I would also avoid those with engine code CUPA which often burn oil due to poorly engineered oil rings and extended service intervals. Look for one with known service history, preferably “fixed”. DSG need to be serviced every 40k, if it’s 4x4, haldex needs servicing every 30k or 3 years. plus if the vehicle has done more than 120k, think about DPF cleaning or replacement in the near future.

Sure! The shop which removed the diff is the VAG service center Elbatron https://forum.vwclub.bg/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=44549&start=180 They don’t repair diffs and transmissions, so I sent it to this workshop in Burgas which mainly work on BMWs https://www.bmw-shper.com (I couldn’t find someone is Sofia who has tools to measure the bearing gaps, etc) Most likely you won’t need, but just in case the guy who soldered my AWD module is https://avto-elektronchik.bg/contacts.html I highly recommend you to change also the rear driveshaft coupling if it hasn’t been changed already. I don’t have P/N on the invoice but I think it’s 5Q0521307. Ask or PM me directly if you have any questions. Good luck!