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@MartiniBAhh you’re right - I forgot about the rim width.. So I still see an issue with the spare kit with either 17” and 18” options. As you mentioned, the 18” space saver kit doesn’t fit on the standard 18” rim. I’m pretty sure 16” spare kit will fit on the 205/60/17 tire with standard rim.

Hello guys, I’m following this thread with interest and had read @MartiniB’s original thread as well. I’m wondering, wouldn’t the 195/55r18 tire be the best option for cars coming with 18” space saver 125/70r18? (like the 4x4 Scout that I have) If the tire of the space saver can be replaced, it will mean that not only the diameter will be optimal, but also the spare kit will fit inside. Also no foam cutting will be required and the trunk floor won’t be lifted. The space saver remains mystery for me: is it a tire with special compound? What about the high inflation pressure it is required for those tires?…

No worries at all then. Happy holidays

Ahh that could be the case for UK, yes. Thanks @Rooted!

I agree with @Bap33- wrong engine oil is used. It won’t harm much but I would change it earlier. 2.0 TDI 184/190/200ps require oil meeting VW 507.00 standard. VW doesn’t sell 5w30 OEM oil meeting this standard anymore but only 0w30. And you could still find many non-OEM 5w30 oils meeting this standard, the standard is what you should watch for when buying an oil for your car. Unless you live in really cold climate. BTW mine is 200ps TDI Evo engine and still uses VW 507.00 oil(0w30 from the factory), while the 150ps version of the engine from the same year requires oil meeting 509.00 standard, which are only 0w20 oils, I believe.

As you already mentioned, it could be the waterpump. It’s well known issue. Very unlikely to be a cracked cylinder head or gasket unless the car has been overheated. It could also be the egr cooler, some folks in Bulgarian forum had such issue. You could ask a local garage to check for leaks around the pump.

Hey guys, a friend of mine have wonderful 18” 8J OZ wheels for me but with ET38 and inner hub 66. Do you think I can use them as a winter set? ❄️ I will need hub adapters from 66 to 57.1 but what I have doubts for is the ET they have. Skoda recommends ET 43-46 for Superb 3 Scout.. 🤔

Great to hear that you got no charges. I'm pretty sure you got lucky BTW what mats did you buy? I bought the regular rubber one and it's a bit rubbish and cheap. And it's the OEM one. My Octavia III's OEM boot mat had much better rubber quality and lower board around the corners, looking much better. I guess I had to take the double-sided one https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/en_CZ/double-sided-boot-mat-superb-iii-limo/p/3V5061163

Yes, usually it isn't something hard but may require tools like brake piston rewind tool in order to assemble everything back. IMO see isn't it dust/small rock stuck between pad and disc. Try to brake harder few times on safer places, e.g. going downhill in neutral gear and breaking also does the job. That will use the brakes fully without engine braking. Then if it's not maybe visit the local garage to do the greasing job, if you don't have the piston rewind tool. BTW is it front or in the rear? Can you determine is it only on one if the sides?

It could be many things, but I would look at the pads myself if the wheel allows - no need to remove the wheel, just use the light from your phone and observe that there at least few millimetres of pad's contact area with the disc. There could be a small rock between pad and disc which may also cause noise. Or pad "ears" where it slides in the caliper may need some greasing. Usually that grease is washed out by rain/snow/mud/etc with the time. I would also grease the slide pins if I do the pads. Last but not least, if the noise remains for few more seconds after you release the brake pedal, the caliper may be stuck or held.

NOK means Not OKay

Sounds like it never betrayed you That’s what I’m looking at right now. I hope that it will work with the latest updates. @numskull I lost connectivity of both my cables connected to my Mac today after upgrading to the new Sonoma OS patch: one is USB-C for an Android and the other Lightning for iPhone. Both cables are not-Apple certified.. 😕 I can’t even charge my iPhone with the Lightning cable anymore using external adapter, most likely because I also updated my iPhone as well.

Hello guys, I've recently found that in the latest updates Apple block third party cable manufacturers. In the same time I see that Apple offers also Belkin cables in their side, so maybe there are exceptions Belkin BOOST Charge BTW S3 FL comes with USB-C ports right, no USB A anymore? Sorry I'm still waiting for my car, but am about to order cables for the Mac, so why not combine it with some more for the car. So my question is what cables do you use? I'm looking for something a bit more bulletproof than the OEM Eco-friendly cables which degrade after an year..

Good morning, fellas! There is 20% discount on all OEM parts today with code BLACK20 As a I reminder check postage terms and conditions to your location. PS: I'll get some rubber mats and child seat protectors for the car which hasn't arrived yet

This is your first post.. Did you really registered only to say that? ------ Anyway, I've never had any issue with them. They have regular discounts and even without them, OEM parts are ~15% cheaper than my local dealer. Yes, I'm not located in UK. The only drawback for me is that I have to make orders over 200 euros to get a free shipping. But yeah I'm living in a small country from which, I guess, they don't receive many orders.

It works but it’s too tight, or I’m overthinking it

Isn’t the O3 key battery CR2025? Mine is pre-FL model 2016 and when I tried CR2032 battery I noticed that it pushes the plastic too much and causes the chip to bend, that’s why moved back to factory size CR2025. This could also be the cause for the issues.

Also have in mind that higher speed rating means better handling and cornering, but less comfort. So if you don't break the speed limits, go with the H or V speed rating. For the load index you don't need more than 91-94 as @Carlston already said.

+1 for what @Carlston said. And the tires are much cheaper in that size compared to 18”, so you can pick a nice brand on a good price.

To the toot’s questions I would also ask, how often do you change that oil? What is its color currently? And did you check for leaks? If no leaks are observed, it could be due to many things like carbon buildup, bad PCV valve, stuck or worn out oil rings. Last but not least, try to change the oil to a bit better synthetic. Millers, Ravenol, Amsoil, RedLine, whatever you have around you on a good price..

1. Carefully pull the grille around the fog light with your hands(no bolts) 2. Undo the T25 torx screws holding the actual fog light 3. Unplug the wire harness from the fog light 4. Change the bulb - type H8 for non-vRS, H16 for vRS model 5. Watch the video for instant courage boost

Following the tread, I would also buy some stickers if available

I had sticking turbo on my 1.9 Pump-Duse TDI Audi A4 in the past and cured it with Archoil DPF and turbo cleaner, and then blocked the EGR. Not very eco-friendly solution.. Something I wouldn't do now. My car used to enter in limb mode once in a while so I added it and drove hardly above 2500-3000rpm until the tank was almost empty. Then blocked the EGR(and EGR cooler I think?) and after that I started to use Archoil's and Miller's diesel fuel additive. BTW I still use the Archoil's fuel additive every tank as the Miller's is hardly available after Brexit. Maybe it\s not helping much, but at least makes the engine quieter with less vibrations according to the cheap Skoda interior . Also it's much cheaper than the Premium Diesel.. I used to add 2T ashless oil in my pre-PD TDI engine some years ago and the result was the same.. But I don't have balls to add it in a CR TDI

@Penpusher Mudflaps are actually a great idea! I'll try to find a installation guide and most likely retrofit those on the Scout as well. Aren't they noisy, or being that low on the car and behind the tires doesn't make any difference?

Yes, that's normal ICE oil consumption. I'm talking about much worse oil consumption on some of these CUPA engines. You just decrease the chance to have such issue by avoiding this engine code, IMO.