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@gidi19 Suck the remaining liquid before and put an old towel over the plug holes before turning the engine. Then you crank the engine several times, put plugs back and try to start the engine. It won’t be easy to turn it on initially. For me it took 5-10 minutes. You try for 5 seconds and then let the starter cooldown for 10-20 seconds. Once started, there will be smoke. Drive it easily until it cleans out 1-2 kms and then change the oil.

How often, I don’t know. I guess it depends on the driving conditions. On the petrol engine it takes 20-30 minutes to remove the plugs, add injector cleaner, rotate the engine and finally crank it without fuel pump fuze. You have to repeat it once or twice every 12 hours. At the end you need to remove the remaining injector cleaner with oil pump or turkey baster. It’s not a lot of work but it takes time. A weekend is enough.

Here is the Hyundai/KIA TSB for excessive oil consumption, skip to page 4 https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2021/MC-10205426-0001.pdf I've also used the instructions in this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bTEwZgXhzRs As most of the folks having this issue recommend, I used the Berryman's B12 Chemtool and not the official Hyundai/KIA injector cleaner.

Nope, hers is used for daily work commute of 5-10 km. Stuck rings are a side effect of the direct injection due to increased carbon deposits. Often happening when the car is mainly used for short distances, gently driven and with long-life service intervals. First two perfectly apply for my wife’s car, and even though I was changing the oil every 10k km, the oil consumption increased over time until it started to use more oil between oil changes than the amount used for the actual service.. 😅 There is official procedure which KIA/Hyundai have for such cases. I can share it, if someone is interested.

If I had such oil consumption from burning and not leak or turbo, I would try piston soak. Won't harm and it's cheap. If the piston rings are stuck, that would unstuck them. Of course, if the oil rings are worn out, nothing could help, unfortunately. My wife is driving the famous KIA/Hyundai oil burner 1.6 GDI engine, and at 160k km, it was burning 1L per 2000 km(~1200 miles). After the piston soak, it now burns 1L per 10k km(6-7000 miles). Yes, it still burns oil, but it's a great improvement. What I would be very careful on a diesel is, how to unscrew the glow plugs since very often they've never been changed..

I had similar symptoms on Octavia 3 few years ago and turned out to be worn inner CV joint. I didn’t go with an OEM part because the joint isn’t sold separately but with the whole axle.

Hi Darko, greetings from Bulgaria! The forum is very helpful and I am sure you will find a lot of useful stuff here ;) I’ve also changed my Octavia 3 for Superb 3 and I am pleased with it so far. Happy reading!

+1 for ATE Ceramic brake pads - I use them from 5 years on Audi A4, Octavia 3 and am about to use it on current Superb 3 when needed. I think ATE recommended ceramic pads with solid non-vented discs. I've always used them with solid discs/rotos. I'm not sure from where I got that impression because their site doesn't make this very clear https://www.ate-brakes.com/products/disc-brakes/ate-ceramic-brake-pads/

Ahh same here, I would require filter cleaning as well on 30k km. I cleaned it on my ex-car Octavia 3 and also changed the o-rings and bolts(the maintenance) for the pump. But I think you can change them every other time.

Thanks mate!

Sorry to step in like that, but I’m wondering few things which I believe will be helpful for others as well. If you or someone else know the answers, share them here. 1/ If the common failure point is a sensor, that means the more often oil servicing won’t prevent it. Of course, that’s not true for mechanical parts. 2/ Do you or someone else know, is the K2 sensor updated in after certain year or the gearbox is identical in 2017 and 2024 Superb? 3/ I guess that since you’re there, it’s good to change the K1 sensor as well? 4/ What would be the best source to buy the sensors? I see there are some available on eBay, e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/404588236912?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Uf4kdw5MRfK&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=co51Dma8SCe&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY 5/ Looks pretty straight-forward if you are good at soldering. Could it be done if you have VCDS to le-learn/reset the gearbox after sensors change?

If the AdBlue system wasn’t working the issue would be fixed. Non-working AB system would mean increased emissions than claimed, leading to another diesel scandal 💨 And this for cars produced after 2015 🙂

Thanks @varaderoguy!

Does anybody know is the issue resolved in the EA288 Evo engines? I had this noise on my Octavia 2016 TDI184 (CUNA engine) but I haven't heard it so far on my Superb 2023 TDI200 (DTUA engine code). The Superb is relatively new so I'm wondering is this about to happen or Evo engines have different vacuum pump where this is issue is resolved?

@freddyuk Please share the German discount parts supplier. It may help to someone else.

Hi Richie, the standard shocks on S3 suck from the factory - I had found almost no difference between my S3 Scout when it was new and my Octavia 3 Scout on 160k kms. Only the DCC in Sport mode is not shaking that much. Some members here say that Bilstein B6 improve this behavior and also make the ride a bit stiffer. I would go the same way when my warranty expires.

Ahh of course no It says to be added directly in the Adblue tank, but I add it in the Adblue bottle before filling the tank. Here is what I'm using https://xenum.com/downloads/tds-msds-nr/en/xenum_ADMAX_TDS_EN.pdf

This is the most common issue, yes. Some of the local guys here had the same error code but it stopped occurring after the they cleaned the injector. Sorry I cannot help you more than that 😕 I personally add some snake oil which prevents the crystalization and issues with the AdBlue system in the winter. I don't know is it working, but so far I have no issues with the SCR system.

@RWW Did someone check the condition of the adblue injector?

Let me guess, VW decided not to offer the sway bar bushes separately, and that’s why they grease them while being on warranty.. 🙄😆

If you have the air con turned on, your engine may also raise the rpms in order to heat/cool the cabin faster.

Put winter tires on an old set of Audi wheels. I think they look good, only the center caps is what I don’t fancy much, because they say “Audi” but I can live with it.

+1 This is what I use from years as well. On regular ATE discs/rotors as recommended by ATE.

@leolito I also did oil change service recently, at 15k km. And like you, I was thinking about bringing my own oil next time. Maybe Ravenol VSW? @Colin170CR Did the independent shop have access to the digital service platform? I've heard that some of them do have.

Sorry for the offtopic but am I wrong that the oil price has increased with 50-70% for the last couple of years?! 40 quid per liter is way too much