Danoid

As your original sensor is silver, the replacement needs to be a silver one

Officially it’s every 2 years

I know you’ve fixed it now sort out but say it wasn’t budging, at the bottom of the arm in your picture there’s some white plastic, this is what secures the mechanism to the glass, so you need to disconnect that then the glass will be free Some glass has two connectors some have one, but no need to break the glass

Not sure if it’ll help but have you tried to soft reset? Hold down the power button until it turns off, then turn back on again?

One thing you may struggle with like I did is torquing the caliper bracket it’s 200nm, eventually I gave up, well my body did! Depends how you’re doing it though, if it was like me just jacking it up you might struggle, if it’s on a 4 post lifter you’ll be fine. No idea what it’s torqued to but it’s going to be very close just not 200nm

Definitely not copper grease as it’s got an outer rubber boot, just brake silicone grease. Think your car is around 2016? So if it’s like mine it should be good but literally your mileage may vary

I did check them and moved in and out nicely and also spun the slider screw and all good, I guess just typical rubbish OE Skoda discs, my rears a few years ago were terrible like many others but I didn’t personally change the rears

Changed front discs (ate) and pads (ate ceramic) on my 2016 with just over 50k miles, not low but fed up of cleaning brake dust Outside disc wasn’t too bad But the inner… The inner pad has a big indentation which explains why all of the disc wasn’t used, looks worse with actual eyes Both sides very similar so glad I’ve got shot of them Just need to bed in nicely for the next 130miles or so

@Crasher I’m sure you’ve seen plenty of these if you’re still around?

Bump :(

Yeah no joy with WHT000713 So bought these https://amzn.eu/d/0gwXOEAT it’s the right size (if anyone sees this in the future here’s the title “JatilEr 30 Pcs Heat Shield Clips, 30mm Heat Shield Repair Kit Steel Locking Star Washer Clips Shield Fasteners Engine Under Cover Fixing Clips, Heat Shield Fixing Clip Replacement for Various Autos” Arriving tomorrow and I’ll be applying some Bilt Hamber UV spray on wax

It’s weird though as it’s for the plastic undershield so if they thought it would get hot enough to use those star clamps then why make the undershield plastic and not the aluminium. The part it clamps into (apart from the metal screw) is plastic, very odd I’ll see if the part coming screws on, if it does I’ll buy the metal clamp another time Thanks

still waiting for part which is WHT000713 But @rum4mo I think you’re onto something, it looks like it’s just a metal clamp washer N90335005 No nut goes over it according to parts diagram, what a stupid design considering it’ll always get wet I’m hoping the part I have coming will somehow work still

Serves me right for thinking about getting a new car, it knew! Anyway noticed this recently on drive So I parked closer last night and saw this today Two little drops Underneath I saw this, which is coolant Removed the undertray and noticed this coming from bottom right of the radiator (looking at it from underneath) Guessing new radiator time?

Forgot to reply yesterday, thank you I ordered the plastic nut and should be here today From what I could see that should be all that’s needed but if I need the clamping washer I’ll get that another time

Hello, I’m out and about so not had chance to look at ETKA etc but does anyone know the part number of I guess a wingnut type fastener for the rear plastic undercover Randomly noticed today that one is missing

I’m not a massive fan either; however the Santa Fe looks massive but dimensionally only like 3cm longer and wider than my Superb estate. I think the boxyness makes it look bigger than it is

I’m maybe thinking of replacing mine at some point too, nothing wrong with it but found out the Hyundai Santa Fe has two proper AC vents in the boot (for passengers 6&7) which still work when the 3rd row seats folded down, so perfect for my dog to be chilling instead of boiling Biggest problem now though is it’s not a great time to lease/pcp as prices are stupidly high

I’m fairly certain that can be removed, if I recall @JR RS replaced his with an aftermarket one, like powerflex etc, but he will know more

Took all the wheels off for a good clean and wax for his 10th birthday For his 11th birthday I’m thinking of getting wheels refurbed. I’ve got Sirius wheels but thinking not to get them diamond cut like original and just get them fully resprayed in its normal silver colour. I know people have done this but anyone regretted it? Tbh sometimes I can hardly tell it’s diamond cut as mines not the anthracite + diamond cut, quite a difference in refurb cost too

Looks genuine, can’t see people bothering to fake it, it’s not a Rolex. I think when I opened my diesel fuel filter I smelt it and it did have an odd smell

Another thing to try if you’ve not already is enable Audi mode for the throttle response. If I recall when mine use to do it was pulling away slowly but kind of lurched a little as if it had 1000hp so I lifterd off throttle then stall, sound about right?

I’ve had that a few times but stopped when rear discs and pads changed, but I think I saw one of your posts and you’ve had them changed, or was that just the front? If not there is a setting you can change for the EPB to release “early” instead of “normal” that might help

That is the hand sensor, load up maps for example and don’t move and you’ll see the menu buttons at the bottom disappear Then move your hand by the sensor and you’ll see the menu buttons reappear Jedi sensor 😂

I reckon you’re leaving breadcrumbs as to where you’re leaving bodies on those roads 😂