Danoid

Are you keeping them in for MOT or going to risk it, saying that technically replacing Xenon right LED isn’t against test criteria

I think a lot of people don’t realise the crescent moon goes piston side It’s there mostly for anti squeal but I bet it can contribute to a little vibration tbh Your previous pads may not have been bedded in correctly too, so be gentle for about 150miles

Mines exactly the same model and year hmm, unless it was an optional extra original owner asked for, I’ve got heated seats at the rear which I believe was optional

I find it odd why yours as standard didn’t have the flappy paddles.

@JR RS can confirm but I believe he said the ballasts can be swapped around for testing

Is it not stamped with the manufacturer and model number? If so be easier calling them and saying is this heated yay or nay? And it’s far too hot to be thinking of this

Ah that sucks, at least it was free to check. Unfortunately I don’t know much about DPF’s and how to read the measurements, but your car was good until it done a regen and then that’s when the limp mode happened?

Yeah but I mean as it’s not seating correctly the whole lot could fly out as it’s half out already 🥲

Italian tune up is basically giving it a quick thrashing. Obviously make sure engine is warm first!!, then go no higher than 3rd gear around bendy roads with some straights (can be hard to find suitable roads I know) Once warm you need to drive rather horribly, like in 1st accelerate slowly to near red line but keep it in first, then the same for 2nd gear, repeat several times then stop somewhere and floor it but make sure it doesn’t go higher than 3rd Repeat that flooring too If that all works and car doesn’t go into limp mode then you might have cleared EGR enough, if the above just doesn’t work then could be EGR is too caked in crap. Also the Italian tune up method is more of a preventative measure, but might just help clear a little bit to know that the EGR needs a proper clean

Might be worth doing an Italian tune up somewhere clear and safe If that doesn’t work and you gut is saying take it back then listen to your gut! I’ve got a 2016 too and only do around 3k a year, but when I do use it, it’s for 4 hour journey at a time, semi spirited 🤪

Might be worth asking in the Karoq forum if there’s is the same. To me it just looks like if the airbag went off the whole airbag assembly will just shoot at you rather than the airbag, apparently when airbags go off you usually get a broken nose but wouldn’t be surprised if that’s worse. Drive slowly until checked and confirmed good

Sounds best I wouldn’t want to drive it too much like that

My 2016 steering wheel, haven’t you had your steering wheel replaced a few times? Seem to recall you had standard then went flat bottom then back to standard

As your original sensor is silver, the replacement needs to be a silver one

Officially it’s every 2 years

I know you’ve fixed it now sort out but say it wasn’t budging, at the bottom of the arm in your picture there’s some white plastic, this is what secures the mechanism to the glass, so you need to disconnect that then the glass will be free Some glass has two connectors some have one, but no need to break the glass

Not sure if it’ll help but have you tried to soft reset? Hold down the power button until it turns off, then turn back on again?

One thing you may struggle with like I did is torquing the caliper bracket it’s 200nm, eventually I gave up, well my body did! Depends how you’re doing it though, if it was like me just jacking it up you might struggle, if it’s on a 4 post lifter you’ll be fine. No idea what it’s torqued to but it’s going to be very close just not 200nm

Definitely not copper grease as it’s got an outer rubber boot, just brake silicone grease. Think your car is around 2016? So if it’s like mine it should be good but literally your mileage may vary

I did check them and moved in and out nicely and also spun the slider screw and all good, I guess just typical rubbish OE Skoda discs, my rears a few years ago were terrible like many others but I didn’t personally change the rears

Changed front discs (ate) and pads (ate ceramic) on my 2016 with just over 50k miles, not low but fed up of cleaning brake dust Outside disc wasn’t too bad But the inner… The inner pad has a big indentation which explains why all of the disc wasn’t used, looks worse with actual eyes Both sides very similar so glad I’ve got shot of them Just need to bed in nicely for the next 130miles or so

@Crasher I’m sure you’ve seen plenty of these if you’re still around?

Bump :(

Yeah no joy with WHT000713 So bought these https://amzn.eu/d/0gwXOEAT it’s the right size (if anyone sees this in the future here’s the title “JatilEr 30 Pcs Heat Shield Clips, 30mm Heat Shield Repair Kit Steel Locking Star Washer Clips Shield Fasteners Engine Under Cover Fixing Clips, Heat Shield Fixing Clip Replacement for Various Autos” Arriving tomorrow and I’ll be applying some Bilt Hamber UV spray on wax

It’s weird though as it’s for the plastic undershield so if they thought it would get hot enough to use those star clamps then why make the undershield plastic and not the aluminium. The part it clamps into (apart from the metal screw) is plastic, very odd I’ll see if the part coming screws on, if it does I’ll buy the metal clamp another time Thanks