Binx1310

I can’t help with this issue directly I’m afraid. But I use carscanner too and have found the coding history to be a bit hit and miss. A good tip is to take screen shots of the standard code before changing anything then you have a record of what it was when you started. What were you trying to code originally that lost the animation?

I Have sent you a DM

Welcome to the forum. A very nice looking car. Almost identical mileage to mine currently. With the radio stations, tune to the station you want and then press and hold on one of the big square presets in the row along the middle of the screen until it beeps. This will then be saved. If the logo doesn’t save automatically these can be uploaded from an SD card.

Yup. All working spot on.

I’m ok with it. I know there’s no tension on the wires, it’s insulated and it’s reversible.

Today’s task was to add LED lights to the back doors in place of the reflectors. Using information from this post. Lights - https://a.aliexpress.com/_EjjRwBg Wiring - https://a.aliexpress.com/_EzQJ6DU Small Posi taps - https://a.aliexpress.com/_EIUKgwe Large posi taps - https://amzn.eu/d/00FkY8MK Tapped into red and white/ brown and yellow wires using posi taps and tidied up with cloth tape. They project “Superb” onto the floor the same as the front ones. Note - it’s always worth having some spare door trim clips on hand as they seem to be a sacrificial part! https://vehicleclips.co.uk/products/door-card-trim-moulding-clip-with-rubber-seal-skoda-5j0867276

Today’s task was to add LED lights to the back doors in place of the reflectors. Using information from this post. Tapped into red and white/ brown and yellow wires using posi taps and tidied up with cloth tape. They project “Superb” onto the floor the same as the front ones. Note - it’s always worth having some spare door trim clips on hand as they seem to be a sacrificial part! https://vehicleclips.co.uk/products/door-card-trim-moulding-clip-with-rubber-seal-skoda-5j0867276

Thanks! All coded and tested using a cardboard box front and back as per @Bap33 suggestion!

It was. But now I’m wondering whether it shouldn’t have been. Because it’s obvious that you would know? Or because I shouldn’t be coding abs?

I’ll have a look in the menu. Do you know which bit/byte in abs needs activating?

AliExpress blind spot kit did not perform reliably enough. So that’s now been stripped out again. Front parking sensor retrofit now complete too. Full install details here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/541006-front-parking-sensor-retrofit-4k-to-8k-rhd-combi/

Thanks. Yes I don’t think I’ll try it out with a wall! Nice to know it’s there if it’s needed!

This is what I would do. I already jumped the gun on the previous project and bought Passat B8 LEDs and a spare set of mirror housings to mount them in to. Will need cutting and gluing but a significantly cheaper option than the pre-made ones on AliExpress, or OEM.

Ah ok thanks. I looked in manual and couldn’t find it anywhere.

What is the 3d printed part for?

I thought it might be useful for others to have this information all in one place. I do not claim to be an expert but this is just my bumbling process of adding front parking sensors to my Superb. Parts list: Wiring harness, sensors and brackets - Kit is for LHD and the 18pin plug was missing - seller refunded the cost of replacement plug Tool for cutting holes in bumper (18mm) Cable to extend wiring harness (0.35mm2) - I ordered 3m of each of the 6 colours for the loom to keep it consistent, if you label them well you can do it all in the same colour 18pin plug (was missing from the kit) 5Q0972718A - This is available cheaper from Ali but I bought it from a UK supplier for speed of delivery. 8k Parking module 5QA919294B - sourced from eBay - find one where the donor car matches yours as closely as possible in terms of age and spec, and it shouldn't need any parameterisation. Parking sensor switch (Find the part number for what you have currently plus the parking sensor button. Mine was electronic boot only originally so part number is 3V2927132Q) Colour Matched Spray paint - I had some left over from painting badges. Find your paint code for the perfect match. Cloth loom tape Heat Proof Conduit Possibly not necessary but I used some as a precaution. Wiring Diagram - Superb 3 8k Front parking sensor Wiring Diagram.pdf If you are not experienced in reading these, watch this to help understand them. @JR RS Guide to removing the front bumper Removing Front Bumper.pdf Seat Cupra guide to a similar retrofit Mostly similar but some coding is different. Firstly I laid out the wiring loom. This kit included the 26 pin plug (Which is part of the standard Rear only set up so is not required) but not the 18 pin plug for the front sensors. Some wires were already pinned into this plug. To remove them, slide the flat end open nearest the wires, then slide out the connector block. You remove the individual pins by pressing onto the silver part with a gentle tension on the cable. You have to do it twice as the pin comes out of the block. This kit also inlcuded some CAN wires, and the plug for the switches including some extra wires for that too. I removed the wires from that plug as I was going to add the wires I needed into the existing one. On this one there is a flap that opens (Under the warranty sticker) and it’s the same process for removing the wires. None of the cable colouring in this kit matches the wiring diagram. So I carefully traced which wire was which by looking at the pin positions on the plugs. I printed out the wiring diragram and relabelled it with the wires corresponding to my loom. As this kit is intended for LHD, I knew I would need to extend some wires. I used sleeve crimp terminals to extend the engine bay section of the loom (The one in the plastic conduit) and used the pins from the plug kit to terminate them. I continuity tested the wires with my multimeter before continuing just to be sure the connections were good. Then I wrapped the extended wires in loom tape. (In hindsight I could have fitted everything in reverse, so that the loom went down the drivers side of the engine bay, and I probably wouldnt have had to extend it, just pin the signal cables into the plug in reverse, or I could have ordered another male/female plug kit and just plugged it in to extend it) Next I painted the sensors. Rather than masking them up, I used the cutting tool to cut holes in a small cardboard box and taped them into position using masking tape. Be sure not to lay the paint on too thickly. Just three light coats and a couple of clear coat is plenty. Now to the install. As not all the parts had arrived, I installed everything before testing the kit in the blind hope that everything worked! First, remove the front bumper according to the guide above. The OEM positions for the sensors are clearly marked on the inside of the bumper. Drill a 9mm hole at the marked cross in the centre of the circle. Then use the cutting tool (pulling from the painted side inwards) to cut the neat holes. Fit the sensors with the sealing rings and clip them into the brackets. Offer them up to the holes. My outer two didn't sit quite flush, but in hindsight I may have put them on upside down! I found the AliExpress brackets had extra tabs on that needed cutting off for the brackets to sit flush. Finally, clean up the inside of the bumper with some brake cleaner or rubbing alcohol so that they are nice and clean. Peel off the backing from the sticky tape on the brackets and carefully position in to place. Be sure to get them as level as possible and give them a firm press so they stick well. Connect the wiring onto the sensors, making sure to push them until they click, and then push in the little tab to secure them. There is cable management moulded into the bumpers and the plug should end up near the plug for the temperature sensor. Note the colours of the wires for each sensor, and make sure they match to how you have labelled your wiring diagram. Now I started to route the next section of the loom through the engine bay, starting with the plug near the other half of the temperature sensor plug. I threaded it up past the washer bottle and along the side of the ECU. I made sure to avoid crossing closely to any large red cables in case of interference. I like to rebuild as I go, so at this point I got the front bumper back on and the car back on the ground. This is the point where I then struggled to find somewhere to get through into the cabin. There is a couple of grommets on the passenger side but I couldn't find my way through them. As my car is a DSG, I knew there would be a grommet in the drivers footwell where the clutch would be mounted. I pulled the grommet out and fed some stout wire up behind the heat shield to come out just under the scuttle. This is where I ran the cables through some heat proof conduit as they are crossing the back of the engine bay near to the exhaust. There is some convenient cable management clips that it slotted in to. Once in the footwell, I then routed the cables up and over the steering column area to emerge next to the PDC module which is mounted just above the accelerator pedal. Now to pinning the plugs. Remove the small storage tray from next to the steering wheel for better access. I removed the existing 26 pin plug from the module (Push the button then the lever pulls down) Cut the cable tie, and slide out the connecting block. On these connecting blocks, the pin positions are numbered at each end of each side, and its a case of counting along to the right position. To this plug, you add the wires for the front beeper to pins 2 and 10, ensuring you get them the right way round according to how they are pinned on the plug that goes into the beeper. You also add the two cables to go to the button, to position 16 and 17. Make sure you know which way round you have positioned them so you can put them into the corresponding positions in the plug for the switch. From here I routed the wire up and over the steering coloumn under the dash, and around the side of the centre console (One torx under a little cover towards the front, and then pull down on the panel to remove). Then its just a case of prising up the surround around the gear shifter, and releasing the red plug on the original switches, and the row of switches then pushes out from behind. Add your new pins to the plug to positon 4 and 5 (16 to 4, 17 to 5), slot the switches in, plug in and put the trim all back together. Now you can pin the 18 pin plug with the wires from the front sensors. Be careful to follow the wiring diagram carefully as the 18 and 10 are very difficult to distinguish and I wired it backwards initially. Then plug both the 26 and 18 pin plugs into your 8k controller. I got some errors initially as there is some coding required. Some was already correct but I checked the following were activated: Module 10 - Byte 2, Bit 0 Module 10 -Byte 1, Bit 5 Module 17 - Byte 13, Bit 0 Module 3 - Byte 24, Bit 5 to enable manoeuvre braking. Thanks to @Cairus for guiding me on the coding. Clear fault codes and all was well. No further dataset or parameterisation of the module was needed. (I initally bought a newer module from an iV that gave me all sorts of errors, hence the tip above of finding one as similar to your car as possible) The last thing to do was tidy up the wiring with a few cable ties, mount the beeper somewhere up under the dash, and swap the modules. Removing the plastic pins used to mount the module was one of the hardest things of this project. I had to use a fine screwdriver to push the centre pin out from beind, then pull out the outer pin. But finally all was in place, closed up and working well. And looks good from the outside too.

Whats the button highlighted in yellow? I guess the one next to it is to turn the sound on and off.

perfection. Thanks once again for your never ending assistance!

I have rolled back the byte 5 bit 4 change. Which bits do I enable on byte 13? This is what I see on carscanner.

Sounds very tempting. I’ll have a search and see what the control modules would cost. Wiring harness is £40 from Ali. Success with the parking sensor retrofit. Just a bit of coding to tidy up.

We have some success! New module works without any dataset changes required. No DTC on park assist module. However I do have 2 DTC on module 17. I did enable byte 5 bit 4 as per some instructions I found online, but carscanner doesn’t have the same long coding helper that vcds does so I may have done it wrong. @Cairus can you tell from the following what I’ve done wrong? Car Scanner ELM OBD2 Version: 2.1.46/2.1.46/iOS DTC report Connection profile: Skoda MQB, PQ26: Diesel DPF var.1 [EA288]Date: 9/4/2026 1:45:16 PM VIN: TMBKJ7NP9G70XXXXX ============================ OBD-II No DTC found. ============================ 17. Dashboard17. Dashboard DTCs: 2 ---------------------------- 13636608 [0xD01400] U101400: Control module incorrectly coded Steuergerät falsch codiert U101400: Control module incorrectly coded ECU incorrectly coded Status bits: 1 Priority: 2 Frequency: 1 Unlearning index: 91 Odometer: 213909 km Date, time: 2026.09.04 13:44:33 Status: Test failed, Confirmed ---------------------------- 16776980 [0xFFFF14] U112100: Databus missing message PLA_Status keine Kommunikation U112100: Databus missing message PLA_Status_01 communication error can_error_timeout U112100: Databus missing message PLA_Status_01 keine Kommunikation Status bits: 1 Priority: 6 Frequency: 1 Unlearning index: 91 Odometer: 213909 km Date, time: 2026.09.04 13:44:33 Status: Test failed, Confirmed 10. Parking Assistant 2 Application data identification: bL VAG Part number: 5QA919294B Software version: 0044 ECU manufacturing date (ASCII): 170813 ECU serial number: 00030841861722200441 Hardware Part number: 5QA919294 System supplier ECU hardware number: 00030841861722200441 System designation: PDC 8 Kanal Calibration date (ASCII): ( ASAM/ODX: EV_EPHVA18AU3700000 Hardware version: H07 ASAM/ODX version: 009035 FAZIT Identification: ATW-00113.08.17EC060080 Parameter set part number: V03935264LH Parameter set version: 0001 System abbreviation: J446 ECU manufacturing date (HEX): 170813 Date of last adaptation: 170828 Date of last coding: 000000 Diagnostic mode: 03 Parametrization date: 170825 Long Coding: 0471051811 -------------------- 17. Dashboard Application data identification: -------------------------- VAG Part number: 3V0920941 Software version: 6422 ECU manufacturing date (ASCII): 151119 VIN: TMBKJ7NP9G7041006 Hardware Part number: 3V0920941 System supplier ECU hardware number: A2C945862040000_D2255 System supplier ECU software number: FFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF System designation: KOMBI Calibration date (ASCII): &) ASAM/ODX: EV_DashBoardVDDMQBAB Hardware version: 213 ASAM/ODX version: 009046 FAZIT Identification: VD1-04819.11.1573958407 Parameter set part number: ----------- Parameter set version: ---- System abbreviation: J285 ECU manufacturing date (HEX): 151119 Date of last adaptation: 260329 Date of last coding: 260902 Diagnostic mode: 03 Parametrization date: 000101 Long Coding: 27A5090A2F90A60001887A011000000000000000

Today I removed the Ali express blind spot detection kit. I wasn’t comfortable with how it worked. It only detected vehicles that were gaining on you, if they were alongside at the same speed the light went off. It only detected 80% of those vehicles that gained on you. It just flat out did not work in the rain. And when visibility is poor is when you need it most. If I cannot trust it 100% then it’s not worth having. It was always just an experiment and proof of concept to see what the kits were like. No wires were cut as part of the install so removal was straightforward. No harm done other than £40 and my time. And I enjoyed the experiment so it was just a small cost. I am wholly expecting some “I told you so” comments! I may look to do OEM fit in future but for the cost even with second hand parts, and the in depth coding required, probably not for what I would gain. Hopefully finish off the front OPS set up today if the unit I am waiting on doesn’t need a new dataset.

If the other module doesn’t work then it may well be cheaper to buy one and get you to connect than get a garage to code it! I will consider it. Although I’m not sure there’s any other retrofits I will do that will need it.

Some progress made. I thought while I wait for the new module come I would do some fault finding on the sensors. Luckily I started fault finding at the plug end. Starting by checking pinout. It would seem my eyes are not very good at distinguishing between 10 and 18 and I’d managed to pin one side of the plug backwards. Repinned it and now just the dataset faults remain. Hopefully the swapping if module corrects this.

No unfortunately not. Is it a new dataset required? There is a guy with odis at a local garage that I can go to if needed. Perhaps you could connect through him or provide dataset for him to load. I will try the other module I have ordered from eBay and if not will have to look at getting it trying the above!