Binx1310

Decent obd reader should give you the part number causing the fault code or at least point to it by name that you can then interpret.

Yes I did wonder that as it’s quite different to the ones on my wife’s MY21 kodiaq. They do have the part number and “made in Germany “ on the back not that that counts for much!

Fitted new black ŠKODA centre caps today. Didn’t look right with the slightly pale grey but caps so got some Matt black nut caps to match. The centre caps are slightly larger and stand slightly proud compared to OEM but I like the cleaner non-chrome (and non corroded!) look. Black Skoda Logo Centre Cap Stickers https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009034228022.html Black Blank Centre Caps https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0D73BN87K Matte Black Nut Caps https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B094FCNTT2 Also bought some positioning pins to make installing the wheels that bit easier. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006157081259.html

Fitted new black ŠKODA centre caps today. Didn’t look right with the slightly pale grey but caps so got some Matt black nut caps to match. The centre caps are slightly larger and stand slightly proud compared to OEM but I like the cleaner non-chrome (and non corroded!) look. Links will be on my project page.

Took a wheel off to test fit the new black centre caps. Non OEM so expected they would need some fettling. Nothing a few rounds of insulation tape on the back side won’t fix. First time using positioning pins for installing the wheels. What a game changer! I also ordered a 1/2” drive adaptor for my drill as I don’t own an impact. That’s a revelation too. Very useful for running nuts in once started by hand, and out and also operating scissor jack. Effortless to lift the car

User manual states 140NM. Doesn’t differentiate wheel type or size.

I use 140NM for my 18s. Didn’t realise it should be 120. I shall have to check manual. I’ve now got 2 retaining pins and looking forward to changing the wheel at some point to try them out!

Ah ok. Guess you have the canton system. I was hoping it was an add on sub to the standard system!

Where did the sub mount and how was it connected to the stereo? Filled mine up today. £99 plus a few pence at 189.9p per litre. Painful.

Superb 100% SE L Exec or L&K. Personally I prefer pre facelift as you avoid the intrusive ADAS. Blame @Kosin for influencing me! I’ve now ordered another set of badges and some moon white touch up paint to try to properly colour code the badges.

Have a look at the front and rear sub frames as they take the brunt of road salt. Also if possible drop out the inner arch liners at the front as you tend to get muck collect on the rear edge under the guard and corrode the front edge of the sill. Those errors are likely due to low voltage sitting at the dealer. I would ask for a new battery to be fitted. Probably overkill but might save you £200 further down the line.

make sure you have a decent electric screwdriver with some Torx bits. Makes the job 10x quicker. There’s a ridiculous amount of screws in the arch liners!

Just ordered a pair from Ali express for £3.20!

I think they are build in to the bonnet catches. I can’t think why else there would be an electrical connection to the catches. Perhaps try adjusting them just in case it’s not pulling the bonnet properly closed?

I’ve used this radar cover (black but they do the one with chrome stripes too) https://ebay.us/m/rsUUk0 I also got grill surround and lower grill strips from them. They also do the grill with chrome stripes but not black. https://ebay.us/m/2IWUJP Parts are all branded as Polcar and seem to be drop shipped from Poland. Took about a week to arrive but good communication from seller. All fit ok apart from each part had a small tab that wasn’t on the OEM and needed to be trimmed off with a Stanley knife. I suspect this is to get round copyright as technically the part is different. @JR RS has a guide on removing the front bumper which you will need to do to change these parts.

I’ll have a browse through the workshop manuals and see if it’s listed.

all guide pins on rear brakes cleaned and greased well when reassembling. Just taken wheel off and refitted and the wobble has gone again. Took up to motorway speed, hard braking. Nothing. It can only be something suspension that relaxes when weight taken off when jacking up and then once settled in again allows movement. I’m off to the airport again Monday so will see what it’s like on a decent run.

So to clarify, if it has the view button I can just swap the buttons from my current wheel, and if its heated it will still plug in to a non-heated clockspring and work, just not with heating. And DSG paddles will also work where I dont have then currently? Also will the older type airbag fit the newer type wheel, albeit with a gap at the top that cant be seen? If this is correct it opens up the potential to other wheels significantly.

only single piston on rear brakes which I checked when they were pushed in during pad change. I don't understand how just removing the wheel and refitting can make it go away unless its something suspension and to do with settling with no weight on. I will test it this afternoon.

Well, 200 miles later and the brake judder is back. Im going to jack up and remove a wheel later today to see if that makes it go away again temporarily. If so it points to suspension issue on that corner

The way I position the wheel is to sit on the floor facing it then wedge a foot either side of it so the wheel is sitting on the top of my feet as I then put a bolt in. I use the skoda screwdriver, the end of the handle has a 17mm socket so you can use it to easily spin in the bolts unti the thread catches. It always hurts my feet though, so maybe some positioning pins would be a better bet!

Thanks. I nearly Bought the wheel @Sko101 had put photos of on here as it seemed a bargain at £130 but it’s got a view button so would have ended up spending a lot more to make it work! It seems the part number you used is the one I need and they seem to be more expensive!

I haven’t been able To find out if you can use a heated wheel on a car without heated wheel connection but just not use the heated function. Perhaps @Cairus would know this sort of info?

I was looking at this exact wheel on eBay! That’s a more modern heated one. You need to get the right part number based on age of car and if you have heated or not. Have a search on the forums and there’s a few posts listing part numbers. Basically you need to stick to the same as you have but the flat bottom version. So if it’s not heated get a not heated one. If it’s heated get a heated one.

Yes. It won’t save the lowest setting but with personalisation off it shouldn’t move from the lowest setting everytime you unlock the car. When it’s set to the key it moves to the saved setting everytime you unlock. If it’s at the extreme it will move away from that slightly to the position that it did save. Bit without key it shouldn’t try to reset itself each time so as long as no one presses the memory buttons the it should stay where you want it to be.