Binx1310

Ah I did wonder as it almost looks like a crack beneath the surface. Hopefully the replacement is better!

@Cairus do you know the specification of these capacitors? I installed aftermarket pioneer speakers in the doors and need to add in some frequency filtering. After driving round using a Bluetooth speaker for a couple of months while my MIB was being replaced I now realise how tinny I have made the audio.

Discovered a line of dead pixels in my new mib2.5 screen today. Luckily there was one day left to return it to eBay! Replacement ordered.

A perfect outcome. Well done. Well worth the prep and planning involved.

You’re allowed a Max 10mm crack within the width of steering wheel the height of the screen, and max 40mm outside that area. I’ve got 2 or 3 small chips in a few places. Expecting them to become large cracks at the first frost!

So, now it is resolved, it is time to tell the saga of my MIB2 to MIB2.5 upgrade. Its something I had ummed and ahhed about for some time, but a cheap scrfeen caught my eye on eBay. £150 was too good to pass up. So it was promptly ordered along with a fresh SD card. All files we're downloaded and prepared as per the github and @JR RS guide. I very nearly bought myself a new battery charge from Amazon but thought I would save a few pennies and I borrowed a battery charger from a neighbour. This I think was the major mistake of this story! One evening I set to work. All seemed to be going well. Progress was happening as it should and the new screen was swapped in. And then... Dammit. That looked catastrophic. But this screen is expected (without as much additional info I must note) and all you have to do is press skip. But the screen did not respond. The MIB unit fans were running flat out and it wouldnt turn off, reboot or anything. Hard reset pulling the fuse just brought me straight back to here. In the time I was pulling about scratching my head thinking of what to do next, all the lights went out.... The borrowed battery charger from the neighbour just wasn't up to the job of keeping the battery topped up. (The only root cause for the error I can fathom is that at some point during the flashing, the voltage reduced to a point that power dropped from the MIB at a crucial moment.) My inital thought process was that the screen was faulty as the digitizers can be fickle. So this screen was returned and the next cheapest screen sourced. A few days later when it arrived I plugged it in and....nothing, straight back to this screen. So I then reached out to the Guru that is @pab567. And I must say the service and support I received was second to none. He guided me through connecting via UART so that he could remote access to me to try to reflash the unit. No joy. The EEPROM just couldnt be communicated with. So the unit was packaged up and sent to Poland for some open heart surgery. Unfortunately this was not successful, having successfully recovered the RCC, the MMX recovery failed. And direct programming of the EEPROM also failed and it was deemed uneconomical to repair. ☹️ PAB sourced a second hand native MIB2.5 skoda unit locally to him for signicantly cheaper than I could source in the UK, and for a very reasonable fee prepared it to be plug and play for my car. This was delivered today and we are now back up and running. The final piece was to install the alternative trim panel to close in the gap above the screen. This was sourced from eBay. I popped a bit of the current trim off to find the colour code and managed to find a match for a pretty reasonable price. Note the part numbers are 3V2858418E for no ambient lighting and 3V2858418F with ambient lighting. THe following 3 digits are the colour code, in my case NF8. So the moral of the story is, don't cheap out on not buying a battery charger, check the state of charge before starting, and dont try to do software flashes in the dark!

All up and running with a new plug and play unit sourced from @pab567 .

Managed to finish the upgrade of MIB2 to MIB 2.5 today having managed to completely brick my original MIB. Thanks to @pab567 for providing a replacement plug and play unit. Cannot fault the service!

As far as I’m aware this is not possible on the newer facelift models.

its because the electricity travels via the culomb counter. if you connect directly to the battery it bypasses that. Its effectively a tally on electricity in vs electricity out of the battery and the car uses this for its "state of charge" status.

I’m pretty sure this isn’t possible on facelift models.

@Lee01 this is a duplicate post

Not that I’ve heard of! I reckon one failed and someone replaced it with a gas strut as it was cheaper. I’m surprised there’s no faults unless some coding has been done on it somehow.

Yes I think you’re right but worth a check!

Not sure on the shudder but that collection of lights usually means a communication issue between control modules, which is commonly caused by low battery voltage. How new is the battery?

I believe I have seen someone on another post on here someone state that the lock has some relatively poor quality internal switches which detect the state. I would think swapping out the latch mechanism is probably the solution. I have a copy of the workshop manuals I can share if you need the instructions.

All set up and should be received by the end of next week.

Not what I have done, but more what someone else has done to it. Some bad parking in a car park by someone resulted in some paint transfer to the rear drivers side door. Some hand polish has been ordered to try and correct it. I don’t think it’s gone right through but I have ordered some touch up paint too just in case. A pleasant surprise that the person actually left contact details and we agreed upon a cash transfer to cover the cost of polish and paint.

Other than the connectors and the rivets were any other changes needed? I have fitted fairly cheap pioneer speakers to my superb as the old ones were completely broken but these may be an upgrade I do in the future.

I haven’t. But if they issued a tsb they may well do it for free. So long as the tsb was issued within the warranty period. I have this with the bcm recall. I just haven’t got round to taking it in yet.

Ferrite beads may help. I had a similar thing with cheap usb adaptors in the cigarette lighters of my superb knocking out the dab. Changed to slightly more expensive ones and it resolved it. Strangely I can use the cheap ones in my wife’s kodiaq without issue.

My superb does this a bit. It’s got 130,000 miles on the clock and previous owner missed a gearbox service so I generally forgive her a little jerkiness. If you have vcds or carscanner or similar you can adjust the autohold sensitivity which may help.

Ah that’s interesting. I get the daily updates but don’t have connected services so will I have to do full fw update manually? The kodiaq is due to go in for bcm recall so may ask if they can do it then too.

I don’t think so. Just have to wait our turn. Still waiting on our kodiaq

That’s very useful to know. Thanks for the info.