Binx1310

Ah yes. Good spot. I think the process is the same but need to make sure you get the right update package. If you put your existing software train into MiB helper it will tell you the latest version. If there is more than one version between your existing and current one you may have to upgrade in stages https://mib-helper.com

Is it just moral? Potential new regulations on mot in 2027. Unless that’s just diesels. Recently discovered mine hasn’t done a regen in 50,000 miles or so. That might get interesting.

@JR RS has done a brilliant guide. Make sure you have a good battery charger connected as a failed battery during this process can be catastrophic.

Mine are Phillips cool white w5w led bulbs. Were fitted by previous owner and appear to have a resistor in the light fitting too.

Not sure I can answer your questions specifically. But I love the solution on this one to keep OEM look with super sprint back boxes

Well I said on the wish list. Doesn’t mean I’ll actually do it…

Will be good to see some before and after pics. It’s something that might find its way onto my wish list.

Got mine given a quick once over yesterday too. Makes it look so much better. Won’t last long I think!

I wrote a guide for connecting by UART should anyone need it in future.

Having had to do this recently to try to recover a bricked MHI2, I found the info to be a bit all over the place so thought I would gather it into one guide. You may well need the guidance of an expert such as @pab567 once connected to the MIB for the next steps in recovery/programming, but this set up will allow them to remote access to you to do so. I take no responsibility for any effect connecting in this way has and am in no way an expert on this process! Useful Video of the general process: Parts required: TTL to USB adaptor. There’s lots about on Ali or Amazon. Look for CH340 chip and you need to make sure it supports 3.3v. This is the one I used https://amzn.eu/d/03Rt3b1k Quad lock extension cable. Not completely essential but this is an easy way of connecting to the right pins and also allows you to connect cleanly and reversibly to the existing wiring whilst maintaining all the other connections to the car for testing purposes. https://amzn.eu/d/086O3DlR Connectors, such as crimp terminals or WAGO connectors. Laptop First step is to make up the cables following this guide https://www.scribd.com/document/849387823/Connecting-TTL-adapter-to-UART-on-quadlock-VAG-MIB2 find the correct wires in the quad lock extension cable and then cut them and crimp/connect on the UART connection wires so they connect to the lever plug end of the extension. I added some labels so I could ensure I connected them to the USB adaptor correctly. You may need RCC or MMX connection so I added in the wires for both and then just connected the right ones to the USB adaptor as needed. Next, prepare the laptop. Download and install PuTTY https://www.chiark.greenend.org.uk/~sgtatham/putty/latest.html Plug in the USB and find the correct com port associated with it in device manager. Then set up the connection as per the scribd article linked above. Save this as a profile for easy connection next time. Find the correct password required to login to the MIB based on brand and software version as per this article https://www.scribd.com/document/464567838/Audi-Mib2-solution And put it into a txt file so it’s ready to copy and paste. Now connect to the car. It is essential that the car battery is in a good state of charge. Connect a good quality battery charger during this process. I would highly recommend charging the battery for a few hours prior to starting this process to ensure it’s in a good state. You can take the MiB unit out of the glove box but I chose to drop down the whole glove box and rest it on a bucket as it allowed access to the fuses and keeps all other wires connected to the MiB. Remove the 20a fuse (position 12) from the fuse box to power down the MIB unit. Remove the quad lock from the back of the MIB unit and add in the modified extension you have just made by connecting it to the back of the MiB. And the other end to the quad lock of the car that you’ve just removed from the MiB. Ensure the correct wires are connected to the usb adaptor in the right way and that it is set to 3.3v. Plug usb in to laptop. My wires were quite short so I had to balance the laptop on the passenger seat. You can extend the wires when making the adaptor but they should not be extended more than a metre. Open putty and load the profile you set up. You should see a blank black screen. Now copy the password from the txt file. Insert the fuse for the MiB unit. You should see the screen now being populated with text and code as the client logs the activity of the MiB. Press enter and type root, then enter then right click on the black background. (This will paste the password you copied) and press enter. If the login is successful you should see “Audi MIB” in ascii characters as per the picture above. You are now logged in to the MiB. If you are being supported remotely ensure you have an appropriate remote access tool installed to allow your support to control your laptop to enter commands. Using certain command codes it’s possible to backup to an SD card as well as various things such as remove component protection or update fec codes/ program the eeprom etc. I have no information on how to do this! There is a high chance of bricking your unit so do not proceed unless guided by an expert or you are confident in what you are doing!

I tried silicone and it didn’t last. Some have said tiger seal. I cleaned up the groove and made sure the trim was shaped well and not out of line and it seems to have stayed on its own. Time will tell.

I found one in the notifications list. If you pull down from the top of the screen.

After the issues with the radio it’s more than my marriage is worth to be spending more money on “pointless upgrades”!

Screen seems to be good as far as I can tell. Old unit as MIB 2 worked perfectly. Some kind of issue during the upgrade corrupted the eeprom. Spent the last week learning about uart and PAB connected remotely this evening to try to fix it. But it can’t be written to or read through the terminal. Needs a physical connection to the eeprom directly to reflash it unfortunately. I have a friend who is an electronics engineer and he offered to have a look but we would both be learning what’s needed and winging it whereas I can send it to an expert and get a plug and play unit back. This is the last thing I do to the car. Essential maintenance only from here on in!

Unfortunately after an evening spent connected to @pab567 we had no luck. Cannot read or write to EEPROM so it’s being sent to him to repair on the bench. Fingers crossed it’s relatively straight forward.

Spent the evening connected to @pab567 in an attempt to revive my failed MIB 2 to 2.5 upgrade. Unfortunately it’s not in a state to be recovered remotely so the MIB unit is off on holiday to Poland for some TLC.

They’re the same changes I did. Had them both for nearly a year and performed perfectly. Well worth it. I also added a MagSafe charging pad. Ideal for short journeys but tends to get a bit warm on longer ones.

It’s certainly interesting thanks, but MIB3 is not somewhere I want to go! Getting MIB2.5 set up is a headache enough. Hopefully nearly there with it now.

You decided to keep it then?

Took another £20 to get to full!

Tried to fill up today but hit the pre-authorisation limit before it was full!

I did! Turns out it was a rubbish charger! And/or my car was already quite low on charge!

I managed to do this but didn't realise until the car was in the garage having a broken spring changed! Turns out you can match them by eye and buy a new key from amazon for a cheap price, kind of defeats the object of having them, so I am now back to normal bolts on all wheels!

New screen should be delivered later today. Car was critically low on voltage so that may have also had an impact. All packages got an OK after installing and the log file on the SD card states all partitions etc completed succesfully. So I am hoping it was a voltage and/or screen issue. I ended up pulling the fuse for the radio as MIB unit was stuck at this point and draining the battery. Car now recharged to 98% SOC and I have bought a higher amp charger! Will make sure car is well charged before recommencing the task. I have been in touch with @pab567 as the resident MIB expert and he is confident that it can be recovered if theres no improvement on the new screen!

Not sure, but there is a setting to enable the windows to close if it starts raining...