R_Blue

But? Why not? A custom ECU application would be the foundation of advanced mods. Let it be turbo or supercharger application or custom dashboards. You name it. There are advanced tools like 3D printers now to build the dream dashboards.

Some of them are over the top for my liking but great collection. Those were futuristic designs of that era. That future came as this:

Correct.

No, there is not any heating element like that. Something happened to me which might worth checking for you. The gas pedal started to get stuck, at the same time all of my carburetor fast idle and idle speed adjustments were gone. I discovered that, the gas pedal wire had lots of friction. I removed its end from the carb and lubricated it using a syringe filled with oil. I inserted the needle between wire and its sheath. After patiently oiling, I saw rusty oil coming from other end of the gas pedal cable inside the cabin. All of the problems disappeared after that. I've bought a new cable but forgotten to install it.

I like retro electronic dashboards too.

I liked the design of this wheel. Since my car doesn't have airbag or horn button at the center, it is perfect. Is it sturdy? Does it flex on the top section a lot?

After the engine start, could you check the thick hose going to the top of the radiator? After the engine start up, the thick coolant hose must stay cold until the thermostat opening. If the thermostat is stuck open, maybe the engine can not heat up properly. My hot air intake is completely disabled and sealed off. I don't even have the air routing plate on the exhaust manifold. Even below -10ºC carb doesn't ice with LPG. I've never experienced carb icing so far. But, that doesn't mean the carb should get ice without LPG. It's built in Czech Republic after all. If I were you, I'd reduce the fast idle from 1500rpm to 1000. Let the engine warm up without too much air velocity through the carb. I use fast idle to compensate the cold state hard turning of the engine.

For anyone who want to do this work at home, Other than standard tools, (Socket wrenches, open ended wrenches, adjustable wrench, pliers, screw drivers etc) You need specialized tools: - To be able to separate the knuckle from the shock absorber, you need a 1.5 or 2kg hammer with a short handle. Otherwise, you won't be able to remove the suspension assembly. - You need a good quality, safe, spring compressor kit. - You need jack stands. - You need a trolley jack or a bottle jack to be able to push the knuckle back into the shock absorber. - Balljoint separator is a must have if you don't like to go bang-bang-bang on the knuckle ring. (Deteriorates it too) - For rusty and stuck bolts and nuts you need an impact wrench. I advise compact rechargeable models. I have AC corded one. Powerful but heavy and big. I can't use it everywhere. Pneumatic is good too but it needs investment into an air compressor and some accessories of it. - A breaker bar with 1/2" socket size minimum. - Long pry bar for pressing down on the track rod ends while tightening it down. (You get leverage from subframe mounting place) - Rubber hammer at least 600gr. (You use it on new parts when some concussion force needed without damaging the paint or causing dents) Replacing the swing arms is hard because of the position. Remove the track rod end balljoint, remove the lower balljoint. Remove the bolts securing rear bush clamp of the swing arm. To be able to remove the little nut, you must either pry the subframe and insert an open ended wrench to be able to hold the bolt or, try to pry the clamp itself with one hand with a flat big screw driver and while doing that, your other hand ready with the impact wrench on the nut. I cleaned the bolts' exposed threads with wire brush using dremel before making the attempt to remove. There was anti-gravel paint covering on the threads. After removing the clamp, finally you can remove third connection which is a rotating bush. The nut will come off but don't expect to remove the bolt easily. It's friction pressed. It can only be removed and reinstalled by hammering. Don't damage its threads. Reinstalling is the reverse of removal. But you have to use your jack again to be able to push the clamp on to the rubber bush. Watch out for the small bolt while rising the jack though. You don't want to break or bend the bolt. Make sure it is positioned well into its hole on the clamp. Removal of the suspension assembly: Remove track rod end balljoint. Remove the nut securing the shock absorber from below. Use a heavy 1.5-2kg hammer to hammer down the knuckle. Use penetrating oil to ease up the process. As the knuckle lowers down be careful not to drop the wheel hub suddenly. The brake line might get damaged. So hold the wheel hub and place something under it after the total removal of the shock absorber. To be able to remove the suspension assembly from the car now, you must remove the two nuts from the strut tower. Don't try to remove the big nut on the center!. Hold the strut assembly by your hand and lift it while removing the nuts from above. This way you will prevent stripping the threads. After removing it from the car, lay it down, use your spring compressors to be able to remove the nut on the top which holds all parts together. The spring force is severe. Use the spring compressor wisely. Clamp it secure and tighten it equally in pairs. When a spring is compressed, it is a loaded and deadly weapon. Don't forget that. One of the most important detail about the removal and reinstalling of the top nut is the requirement of holding the shock absorber shaft while trying to turn the nut. Don't turn the shaft with the nut. Normally you do it from the tip of the shaft using a proper sized wrench or adjustable wrench. I couldn't remove one of it and I had to hold the shaft from inside with big pliers and used impact wrench on the nut. You can do this if you are not planning to reuse the shock absorber but if you are planning to use it, whatever you do, don't scratch the shaft surface. It will damage the seal inside and the shock absorber will leak, rendering it useless. Maybe one can hold it with soft buffers placed between the tool and the shaft. Check all parts. Replace the rusty or worn or damaged ones. Strut bearings may be reusable. You can split them open and check inside. There are small steel balls inside which are free without a cage. So don't drop them. If there is not severe damage, clean, grease and reuse the bearings. Decompress the spring carefully and see its shape in free form. If it looks warped, replace it. If it has excessive rust, replace it. Check for splintered, cracked areas. If you see any, replace it. Measure the height. 356mm (with 12.6mm core thickness) for Favorit and Forman 340mm (with 14mm core thickness) for Light 1.3 Felicia. 356mm (with 14mm core thickness) for heavy equipped 1.3 and 1.6 felicia (I couldn't find info about the 1.9 at the time of this topic. So, sorry if you are looking for that) If your spring is collapsed beyond standard measurements, replace it. Otherwise, you can continue to use your springs. No: 23 is the top rubber bush. I'd replace it every time. You will find it crushed %99 guaranteed. Reinstalling is the reverse of removal. Hang the assembly on the strut tower with the two nuts. Hold it and press it up tightly beneath while reinstalling the nuts. Otherwise you will damage the threads. Clean and grease the knuckle's interior. Insert the shock absorber bottom into the knuckle, observing the security tab behind so it is perfectly positioned in the middle of the pinch opening. Using your bottle jack or the trolley jack, slowly and carefully lift the swing axle. The knuckle will slide and sit on the final position. There is a stop on the tab which will prevent further movement of the knuckle. Also you will see the securing bolt will be lined up with the security tab's recess. Insert your bolt and nut and tighten it according to the torque spec. Steering rack replacement is not hard if you know what you are doing. (I'm talking about the manual steering of course) Start by removing the negative terminal of the battery. Remove steering wheel. Remove the steering column covers. Remove the control arms to prevent accidental damage. Remove the bolt from the universal shaft at the bottom. Remove the steering tube bolts. (4 total) Memorize the order of washers, spacers and rubber bushings on the bolts. When the steering tube and the shaft is free, carefully maneuver it out of the fascia and remove the ignition switch cables. (Don't forget their positions and colors) With the whole assembly in your hands, try to pull it gently. If you are lucky, the universal joint at the bottom will slide off without much effort. mine was severely stuck. In this case, this method will save you from having a headache. There are two universal joints. One at the bottom, one at the steering tube connection. Give a slight angle to the upper universal joint and use a decent sized hammer, hammer it upwards from the universal joint base while continuing to pull the whole assembly with your other hand. It will slowly move upwards from the base joint and will be free. Remove the track rod end balljoints. Remove the four bolts securing the steering rack. You can remove the steering rack out of the engine compartment from right side of the car. Through the wheel well. (This is a LHD car.) Reinstalling is the reverse but you must prepare well before installing the rack or it will take a lots of time adjusting it later. I did a mistake by adjusting the new rack according to the factory data but it was an asymmetrical rack. So I ended up having wrong steering center. Measure the rack movement on the bench. Mark its center before installing. Make sure it is at dead center before installing. Install the rack. Use new clamp rubbers if required. As soon as you finish installing the rack, mark its input shaft position on the bottom plate inside the car. This is important. You must match the steering rack center with the steering tube center of locking. If you accidentally move the steering rack, you can use this mark to regain the position. Don't install the steering gear inside yet. Having the wheel hub straight, by your vision, adjust the track rod end ballojoint's position without moving the rack. Adjust the length of the balljoint so they fit into place by not moving the straight position of the hub. Mine new rack is offset so the measurement of balljoint extension is not equal. Install the road wheels and tighten the bolts slightly without moving the steering rack. Using a level meter, mark two points from the front and rear side of the wheel while referencing a detail on the wheel. Like hub edge. Do the marks on the same height on the other wheel. Using a tape meter, measure the wheel distance from the same tire grooves. One measurement from front. One from rear. We need equal measurement or slight toe in. But this measurement is very rough. Aim for equal measurement. We do this only for the initial run to the nearest computerized alignment shop. My adjustment ended up 0.7 degrees miss in each wheel according to their system. With the steering lock on, hold the steering tube and steering shaft assembly straight to its mounting place and insert the bottom universal joint carefully. One notch miss and you will end up steering lock not locking straight. Unfortunately you must demo the setup before full reassembly. So, just insert the bottom universal joint and screw at least the two bolts securing the steering tube. If the bottom side universal joint is not sliding in, use hammer again to hammer it in place. After securing the steering tube, slide the steering wheel in and demo the setup. You must achieve side to side perfect mirroring of the steering wheel. If the left stop position of the steering wheel does not fit the mirrored shape of the right, try re inserting the steering wheel while passing a notch to the right or left, which is required. If you achieve side to side mirroring but you end up road wheels not straight when the steering wheel is straight, too bad. Steering rack is not properly centered. If it's not severe, the wheel alignment shop can true it for you. Otherwise you have to adjust the rack center again, according to the straight position of the steering wheel. You do the adjustments again from the track rod ends to achieve straight wheels. Confusing right? It took 6 hours for me to adjust the rack center on the car and matching the lock center of the steering tube and reassembling everything back together. I think it takes practice to make it faster.

Imagine you are in a left turn. Front right suspension fully collapsed. You see a patch on the asphalt. There is about 0.5-1cm of surface difference. When the right wheel hits it, you hear a metallic BANG. Same for the opposite side. That was happening all the time. I have no other explanation.

They don't have any. The old ones are in the house. They don't have such internal soft stops nor the ones I've installed.

I wish I had a closed private garage. I'm working exposed to the weather as you do. If you have a trusted mechanic and enough money to pay, I'm sure they'll spot any sign of wear and tear. For the most basic checks, like you've said, They are asking money. Naturally. Regularly checking the CV boots is a good practice. As soon as one spots cracks, it must be replaced.

CO screw adjusts idle air. It is not related to fuel. You have air leak. %90 percent sure. In my carb, I don't have to fully set the screw in to see the revs dropping. When the screw is fully in and the car is still running, this means it sucks air from elsewhere. If the carb gaskets are OK, check brake booster hose. Disconnect the hose and plug its insert on the carb too see if there is any change. (Don't forget to reinstall it before driving) Check all of the small hoses around the carburetor. (Second stage, TTV hoses) for cracks and leaks. Some people spray lighter gas around the carb gasket to see if that is rising the rev. I find it dangerous. You can use an incense. By keeping it close to the gasket mating areas you might see the leak. Your idle system's fuel routes might be clogged too. Please, remove the air box and run the engine with the carb's top open. Listen to the carb from close. You must hear a constant hissssss from intake of the carb. Like listening to a vacuum cleaner's hose's end. If you hear, hissss....gro...gro...glog.hissss.glo..glog...hisss... that means vacuum leak.

Here is the root cause of the problem. I don't blame anyone for something deteriorated to the point of being unrecognizable. This is a €3 part. Called "bump stop" or "helper spring" or "shock absorber rubber stop". In the pictures above you can trace its ruined remains. 10cm part reduced to 1cm. The front shocks were bottoming out in every excessive force. Resulting accelerated shock absorber wear. Every time the shock absorbers had bottomed out, it sent shock waves to the chassis. Resulting the top mount to get cracked. When I bought the car 4 years ago, all of the suspension items were shining new. Including the axles. This issue with suspension was present from day 1. So I've thought, this was an old car with very soft suspension. It must be normal to be louder than other cars when the front suspension bottoms. Compared to modern cars, everything is noisier after all. I haven't driven another Favorit too. It seems, either the previous owner had tried to save on this part ( €6 ? I don' think so) or they had an argument with the mechanic about the price and the mechanic had sabotaged the work by not installing the new bump stops. If you look carefully one of the ruined remains had been installed reverse! I have adapted a keen driving style to watch irregularities on the road to avoid bottoming out the suspension. I also memorize all potholes low manhole hatches. Maybe once in a month, one side bottomed out. Sometimes you can't avoid the big irregularities, you know. Especially when chasing a car in front of you. It suddenly appears. I think one of that occurrences had caused this crack to happen. Yes. Exactly. I'm glad my a** got frozen on the ground. %100 percent worth it. Disaster averted. Thanks to @nta16 and @Papez. My first choice was air shocks from Veka.(Not Vika! ) But one of them was leaked in its box. I returned both. So lesson from this story: Don't trust. Check everything. Every little detail. Check your bump stops. If they are destroyed or crushed that can lead to serious damage.

Let the other members try and chain the links together.

But why? There is a reason. It's in the last pictures.

It all started in another topic. The front suspension has very little movement space before it hits the buffer with a loud bang. Even small irregularities on the surface of the asphalt could make front go BANG. I've decided to find a solution to this issue I'm having for years. Also, I wasn't content with the condition of the front suspension and all undercarriage and also the steering. I've used this opportunity to check it all. It ended up big and I've found some scary and lethal issues by surprise. Here is the story: First, I've discovered this: https://www.dailymotion.com/video/x9drh9e Also the inner ball joint: https://www.dailymotion.com/video/x9drihw The rack has vertical play on the left side too. Needs nylon bushing replacement. I've removed and checked it on the bench for judging it better. Side to side movement is not smooth. There is a dip around middle. So, there is no point keeping this rack or trying to fix it. - I've also discovered that the left swing arm rear bush was worn. - Both swing arms had signs of wear. So it is a good idea to replace them together. - After the advice of @Papez , I've searched for Felicia 1.6 specific damper and springs but couldn't find any locally. Local sellers don't recognize the difference. They are usually offering one standard damper and one standard type spring for all variations of Fav. and Fel. I've removed and measured the spring I currently have. It is around 35cm and 12.8mm core thickness. Standard Fav. spring. The shape and height OK. No need to change. I've cleaned and lubricated the strut bearings. I've found Sachs 100667 and bought them. The spring plates were in trash condition too. I don't have a lift or a trench. I work on the ground. https://www.dailymotion.com/video/x9drmfs Removing the main bolts are easy but there is one small nut nearby. Which is a real pain in the a** to remove it. It took 30 minutes to remove just one M6 nut. https://www.dailymotion.com/video/x9drn7g In the end, I ended up replacing: Both swing arms, dampers, damper stops, dust covers, strut rubber bushes, spring plates, strut mounting plates, whole steering rack and steering rack clamp rubber bushes. It wasn't a smooth work. I've encountered many obstacles and problems during the work. Some of the problems were unrelated to work. I had to remove dismantle and reinstall the struts 3 times and the steering rack two times because of disruptions which ended up immediate use of the car. But even without disruptions, this is not easy work. Especially in winter and below zero conditions. https://www.dailymotion.com/video/x9drnl8 So what was the lethal issues were you talking about? You ask. Right. OK. This time, I'll leave the rest of the pictures. You tell me the whole story.

For a car daily driven in Greece summer, well done. In the last summer, I hit the limits of the 1.6 radiator and I don't have A/C. The gearbox oil was new at the beginning of the last summer. I've changed it recently and it poured out pitch black. Imagine the heat. For coolant leaks please check the iron pipe connections located under the right side of the engine. Also, when water pump fails, usually first sign of failure is coolant leakage. You must check that too. Usually, worst leaks happen when the weather is cold. My advice is, after arriving home in Saturday night, check for coolant leaks in the cold morning of Sunday. This way, you will have a chance to catch the heat expansion difference leaks on various connections.

Another candidate! Congratulations! Good find. The H value is 45.3 on the Felicia. The setup had been adjusted for that. The proposed caliper's own disc is this: https://spareto.com/products/trw-brake-disc/df2753 The disc depth of this model is 43mm. Very close. I don' know how the final result would be after bringing the parts together but, more than 43mm may need grinding from the bracket. While any less than 43mm, just like with the renault dics, may require shims just like @Papez said. Because of the overall diameter, Renault discs may be the better choice here. For 13" rims. The 236mm Mitsubishi discs we see here had been chosen for Lancer V 1.6 16V. A 113Hp car. So, I think there is no reason for going 256mm Hyundai Vented discs. I'll check but there are differences. Many differences. 10kg Skid plate, LPG system, 74Ah battery. The tires are also 175 70 r13. Stock tires are 165 70 r13. A little off topic but faded photos are better than nothing. I've lost many photos taken in early 2000s with a digital camera.

Worth trying in the next change.

Of course the mounts are identical but I remember reading somewhere that felicia's engine is hung 4cm higher than fav. Skidplate is a must have for daily use. Without it, I would have crashed and damaged the gearbox housing many times. But it weights 10kg and reduces the ground clearance further.

When I got the car 4 years ago, the front swing arms, shocks, springs, front axles, their boots etc. were new. Had been replaced by the previous owner before the sale of the car. It's just like this from the day one. Of course these parts are not OE. All of them are aftermarket. Felicia has a higher engine position than fav. and might not be comparable. I think, this is normal for this car. When you look from the side, the car looks like an ordinary car with ample suspension movement space but the ground clearance under the skid plate is very low. Maybe like 8cm. If the suspension had traveled more, the car would crash the skid plate to the ground. I wish. I'm always interested in such a fine car he has.

Interesting... Are those air shocks? Or brake line routing? With this conversion, one must also find a solution for rear wheels to mach the new 5 bolt pattern. The modders have my respect. Good work. This is the "go big or go home" version of doing this work. It reminded me that I'd love to have a better front suspension solution. Don't get me wrong. Not for flexing on curves. The front suspension has very little movement space before it hits the buffer with a loud bang. Even small irregularities on the surface of the asphalt could make front go BANG. Especially if I have a little overweight passenger(100kg) sitting in the front. The same thing happens on other cars more silently. In fav, the bang is so loud, it makes you fear every time that something is damaged. (In severe cases yes. Wheels can go out of true. Requires work in wheel bending machine) So I'd say yes to a conversion to improve two aspects at once but that needs huge amounts of work to be done. Both in front and rear wheels. But it's good to know the possibility of this upgrade option as well. That's no problem. Easy work on lathe. Anything over €30 (including shipment fee), instant seizure by customs. And there is an ever growing list of banned products. If a product passes the requirements, one must pay %60 tax + some fixed fees to receive the item. In a short explanation, you pay €48 for a €29 product. If it's over €30 and you want the item, you must hire a customs specialists, pay storage fees for the impounded item, pay extra taxes and fees to be able to get your item. So an ordinary person can not order tires from UK specialists. Yes, I've checked the list and even stored it for future reference. Continental Eco Contact 6 is available locally in 13" size. Good find. Thanks!

I agree. I'd prefer McLaren F1 by the way but you know, beggars can't be choosers. So we hit the road with right or wrong, whatever we've found. I don' think brake caliper brackets can be modified to fit in a safe way. A custom caliper bracket must be fabricated with precision and proper techniques. It's not an easy job. If the bracket gets broken while braking, the results will be catastrophic. Thanks to the wheeler dealers, I'm familiar with the UK's independent manufacturers. They do marvelous jobs and have my respect. The problem is, with the regulations in where I live, it's impossible for me to import anything like that. Unfortunately, importing of a €150 part is impossible. Also, thanks to you, if I make the conversion, it will be a more feasible project than €150 pads.

So the float needle is getting stuck. Every morning, the engine works with the residual fuel left inside the carb. When it starts to stall you push the pedal, the injector inside the carb sprays the leftover inside the injector pump giving you the last seconds life and then it dies again.

Maybe with custom made carrier brackets.