R_Blue

@nta16 I understand. I'm glad we have veterans like you in the forum.

@nta16 Some cars have character of their own. MG Midget is one of those cars. From a mystical era, where a sports car could be affordable yet looking cool. With my respects to your decision, it would make me sad to let a car like that go. I keep the passive set inside home in large nylon bags after washing, drying, picking up stones and glass fragments.

@nta16 Thank you very much for another detailed reply. I have had the intention to replace them since @RicardoM pointed it out in one of his replies to my topic. Also, someone had replaced them at least one of them before. The one on the right is different from the left. Rear hoses could still be the originals. You are describing me and my conditions. I'm residing on a hill. Also, I usually drive in heavy traffic. I didn't know this. Thanks. I already bought the hose set. Made from rubber. Good advise. There are no more original parts for our cars anymore. Choosing from aftermarket ones, requires some experience and luck. Sound advise. Some good parts sellers also warn me when buying parts about their quality issues. Did you sell your MG Midget because of bad quality replacement parts? I have a set of (4) snow tires for winter season. So far, they fared good. I have another set for summer to save my winter tires' life. Also, summer tires are more suitable for fuel economy. Many parts in the front suspension section had been recently replaced by the previous owner by the time I purchased the car. I will provide updates about the replacement work.

It's been already 2 years since last renewal. My main aim is to replace the rather old looking flexible hoses. While doing that, I'll replace the fluid too. Should I extend the work by dismantling front calipers and/or master cylinder for checking and replacing o-rings and gaskets? Or leave them be?

I'm planning a complete brake system maintenance according to the guidelines and advises over the net. It's been told that, brake fluid renewal was needed in every year or 20K Km. Also, they say; it was a good thing to replace o-rings inside the master cylinder and brake cylinders in 40K km or 2 years. I've bought the car two years ago. The car made near 35K Km since bought. Here is a list and status of the brake system parts: - Brake fluid: I've replaced it after buying the car. - The master cylinder had been replaced before. I don't know its age. It's an aftermarket one. (Pickup version - no limiters) - Front calipers: I don't know the status of the pistons or gaskets. They are not leaking. Current operation is normal. The car does not pulling to either side when braking. - Front rotors: Replaced 30K km ago. - Front brake pads: Replaced 30K km ago with the new rotors. (I will measure their thickness) (Sometimes squeals) - Rear drums, brake pads, all internal springs: Replaced 30K Km ago. (Rear bearings and stub axle have also been changed.) - Rear brake cylinders: Replaced 30K Km ago. - Front & rear flex hoses: I've already bought a set. I will replace all of them without regarding their condition. Last MOT was 15K Km ago and the car have passed the brake tests with these results: Front braking power: 176 daN - 182 daN --- %3 Difference Rear braking power: 166 daN - 193 daN --- %14 Difference There are no problems that I can feel during brake operation for now. I'll replace the fluid and the flexible hoses. What else should I replace? Please advise.

https://www.amd-autodily.cz/zadni-naprava/zadni-napravnice-zesilena.html The list in this link made me thought they were compatible. I saw Felicia Fun (which is a pickup) above the list but did not notice the "Více" word below the list. Which means "more". Surprisingly Felicia pickup is not listed and it turns out Felicia Fun has a different rear suspension system. I should've done my research deeper. Sorry for the inconvenience and thanks @Papez for his expertise.

@Neilswheels welcome. According to this: Main difference is the presence of ABS. Maybe there are some factory welded mounting points for the extra cables and/or mounting points for different paths for ABS models. https://skoda.catalogs-parts.com/#{client:1;page:part;lang:en;region:cz;model:felicia;modification:fel;year:2000;modetype:101;group:5;subgroup:500;pnc:500000}#16 And, according to this: https://www.amd-autodily.cz/zadni-naprava/zadni-napravnice-zesilena.html Rear beam axles are interchangeable between all Felicia models. I don't know about the last letter difference between beam axle numbers but if that is something like different mounting points for small details like cables etc. It can be dealt with, without too much hassle.

Congratulations! After looking to the Alex system pdf. I see, you've dealt with a custom A/C system. Good work!

Not harder compared to what you have already accomplished.

In Fav. you start by removing the battery. After that, there are coolant hoses for the heat ex. and the valve control wire. There is a snap on plastic frame which holds the heat ex. in place. (My frame was glued with silicone sealant) After removing that frame, it's easy to replace the heat exchanger. You just carefully pull it from its slot and insert the new. But... The large plastic housing which holds the air flaps and the heat exchanger itself is completely different in Felicia. Heat exchanger position is different too. Looks like it's harder. I couldn't find a good instruction. All have is this below. Not very helpful and maybe not the correct way to do it but just FYI. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S8rUUqQngGI https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/felicia/fel/2000-101/8/819-819000/

I replaced mine too. Also if you used any new coolant hoses and new clamps for those hoses, please remember to check them for leakages for several weeks. It takes some time for them to get used to each other.

No problem. Behr also has TSW 33. https://www.autodoc.co.uk/behr-thermot-tronik/7287485?search=BEHR THERMOT-TRONIK Temperature Switch, radiator fan (TSW 33)

Another good candidate is Behr TSW 32. https://www.autodoc.co.uk/behr-thermot-tronik/7287484

And it happened. I passed from this route two weeks ago. Compared to other winters, the weather is like a calm spring nowadays. So the road was dry and the weather was fair. It was a smooth 500Km journey. @hzoltaan Thanks for your valuable input. It means a lot when this kind of info is coming from Poland, where you master these conditions regularly in your lives.

Congratulations! I wish, you enjoy your Felly in your most happy days and may it serve you well in your hard times, because you served well for it now. I like how you work on the car. You don't rush your work. You work clean and orderly. I'd trust you to make repairs on my car. Also your paint work on valve cover looking so very cool. Just loved it. That was a good idea to record the startup video too. It will be a good memory to remember in the future. Good work!

That's what I've thought seeing the 1.3 radiator change. Quality of the radiator is very critical on 1.3 size.

That's cool! Loved it.

This one is going to be an interesting project. I like your car already. I'll follow.

That is also EPDM rubber. All hoses which will be in contact with anti-freeze should be epdm. I made a mistake and bought non EPDM for a short piece replacement. Luckily I've learned about that important detail only days later. I removed that part from system immediately. Hose interior was looking rough sanded. Coolant eats regular rubber hoses. Tried & tested. I changed the coolant after that.

"With great power comes great responsibility" That translates into better brakes. All that I can say, you did it like pro. Well done. I'd like to hear how an AFH sounds in a Felly too.

I like your dual speed fan controller circuit. Thanks for sharing. I agree with others about the initial placement of the relay group though. That was too low. New place is better. You can always use 5 pin relays instead of four pin relays too. Like this one: These are very cheap and very common. Also, instead of searching for a special relay box, you can use a common electronic project box. They are dirt cheap and easy to find. I found one example box, which has a clear cover too. If you place the relays and fuses appropriately, you can check their conditions visually (relay leds, fuse condition etc.) after closing the box. For waterproofing, you can use red liquid sealant around the cables' box entrance and around the box cover before screwing it.

The part you'll probably need has a code like this: 047103147, 047103147A. They have different thicknesses. If you can't find this part, I can send it to you. You'll also need a piston ring compressor tool too. I never changed the copper seals beneath the liners before but, I think you may need to remove the pistons for this job.

I feel so happy for you. AFH swap is an excellent upgrade. Did you upgrade the brakes too? Just what I think.

Good work! Grinding limit indicator notch shows that, you can still go for more if you want it. How do you know how much is enough? Just the flatness?

It's always a welcoming sight to see race modified classic Škoda engines.