R_Blue

That's a car worth keeping. A very fine example of caring ownership. So you both have 1.3 engines with A/C and living in hot Mediterranean climate with standard size radiators and your cars are not overheating???? WOW! Unbelievable! Looks like your cars are made by Hephaestus himself! This radiator is 6U0121251: Standard 1.3 https://pasteboard.co/KgrtGn2.png This one is 6U0121251C: 1.3 with A/C or power steering https://pasteboard.co/Kgruc3M.jpg Both look identical but if you look closer, I think 6U0121251C version has thicker cores. Fav./Fel. standard radiator has 2x15 core configuration. 15 is divided in to three bundles and the water takes two turns inside of the radiator before leaving. I have both 1.3 and 1.6 at my hands right now. The longer 1.6 radiator has 2x16 core configuration and cores are thicker too. The water flowing inside this radiator takes only one turn before exiting. This is the copper radiator I've found before: https://pasteboard.co/KgryngV.jpg I think only one source is selling this and so it may be a custom production. I thought this was a standard part. The seller claims this is copper with 3 cores and looking at the picture, there are thinner cores. Looks like a 3x27 !!! unit! I couldn't find any info about its effectiveness. The price is $90 which is thrice compared to standard 1.3 rad. ($30)

Thanks! If this is cool, your beauty is sculptured from solid ice! The info you are providing is very valuable. Thanks. I like the way you think and mod the car's interior. Analogue temp gauge without proper numbering is worthless when accurate measurements are needed. I'll make a digital conversion like you did to your car. I know you have A/C in your car and it's 1.3 right? Do you have the standard 1.3 radiator? Or maybe a special one (3 core copper) like I saw on internet when browsing for radiators?

Absolutely. But overheating damage risk is higher with standard thermostats, so in hot climates Skoda advised 80ºC and that was 30 years ago. (Climate have changed) One of the main aims of this project is to create a more reliable cooling system to be able to install standard value parts. Is it OK to install 88ºC thermostat now? Looks like it's staying at the 80ish levels. That means it will stay at the 90ºC too now. Isn't it? My options are: Thermostat: 80,84,88 Thermal switch: 80-85, 82-92, 87-92

When I got the car. It had brown stuff.

Good catch. Product bottle was left at the car so I got that info from Kemetyl web site. G spec is not written on the bottle but it is TL774F. So it's G12+. Coolant is BS 6580:1992 compatible.

Wow, I didn't know that. I'm glad I stayed away from silicone hoses. New test video is ready. Please check: Škoda Forman (Favorit Estate) Test On A Hot Summer Day

That experimental upgrade was 1.6 Felicia radiator. Now a second test video is here: Differences from the first video: - Vika 6U0121253 (Felicia 1.6) new radiator. - New coolant. Shell LongLife Antifreeze. G12/G12+ OAT. Color: Orange. Mix ratio: 3:2 - All road completed with gasoline. Timecode from the first video for your convenience: New timecode: - 00:00~01:10 40Km/h to 80Km/h acceleration. - 01:10~03:45 Hill climb 80Km/h - 03:45~05:10 Downhill idle 100Km/h - 05:10~05:50 Downhill full throttle to 120Km/h - 05:50~07:10 slight up&down. Fast. 110Km/h - 07:10~08:35 hill climb with 80Km/h - 08:35~09:30 slight down, slight up 105Km/h - 09:30~12:05 long climb with 100Km/h. Big difference. Check temp gauge! - 12:05~14:30 turn back - 14:30~15:00 Fast 110Km/h. Did not switched to LPG on this run. -50 sec. gain. - 15:00~17:55 downhill - 17:55~18:20 bridge cross - 18:20~19:30 steep hill climb 80Km/h. Big difference. Check temp gauge! - 19:30~20:35 steep downhill Engine is cool! - 20:35~22:40 hill climb 80Km/h. HUGE DIFFERENCE! - 22:40~23:39 Finish. Notes: - All road completed at 23:39 compared to 26:45 before. (1 min. gained from elimination of LPG switch section) - Because of the 80ºC thermostat "normal" operating temp for this car is the first gap on the temp gauge. - Temp gauge is not climbing fast like in the first video and it never reached flat position! - Section no:15 is the most important part. Huge difference there. Compare section 15 from first and second videos. - Fast sections are generally full or close to full throttle but section 15 is pedal-to-the-metal. - Note several trucks and cars on the road side with their engine compartments open due to overheating.

Thank you. I'd love to see your modification too. This is a budget oriented mod. With a more relaxed budget, better solutions are possible. This one is a fine example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JMrMyE2V9tI I almost forget how much did it cost? Radiator= $45 Clio pipe= $6 Lada Niva hose= $3.5 All other minor parts in the list= $5 I'm lucky to have the Felicia fan and fan shroud came pre-installed with the car so I didn't pay for them. I'll record another test video as soon as I can.

My car's underside and wheel arcs are rust free but to protect from road salt, I wanted to cover it with anti-gravel paint. The shops do it for flat areas under the car but won't do it inside of the wheel housings. Claiming that, spraying would contaminate and damage the shocks so I painted them myself with a paint brush. After jacking the car and removing each wheel of course. I've found deficiencies at factory seals between the joining points of front fender and chassis joints. When washing the car's wheel housings with a pressure washer, I've saw water was spraying from the gap between front headlights and front fender. Because of runaway water, there is a small rusty area hidden under the headlight. I sealed all fender joints with silicone sealers before applying anti-gravel paint. Not practical but a good time killer for lock-downs.

Many owners agree that the original 480x285mm radiator is not sufficient for hot climates. Especially in the height of the summer, there are some situations that limits the car's performance because of overheating. Such examples are: - Hill climbs over 50Km/h. If the car can handle the same hill when outside temp is 20ºC and you can't climb the same hill when temp is 30ºC because the temp gauge is constantly rising and you decelerate to 25-30Km/h to prevent overheating. - Driving on a fast road, the speed is over 90Km/h and the the temp gauge is slowly rising. You can't keep the pace. You have to slow down to let the engine cool down. More importantly the expectation of overheating makes you nervous. Scope of this upgrade: When there is enough natural air flow and the engine is not cooling down. If you have problem with traffic jam overheating. That is usually a problem with inadequate fan performance. Especially the 4 blade old Skoda fan: https://pasteboard.co/KeVy0sf.jpg seems to be insufficient in hot climate summer time. Felicia full fan cover (6U0121207) with 6 blade tropical fan (165959455G) will do wonders. My aim here is: - Create more thermal headroom so driving in summer is less worrisome. - Being able to install a standard thermostat and fan switch so the engine can run as its designed temperatures for better efficiency. - Lessen the burden on the radiator fan so it won't die sooner than expected. - Better cooling capacity for sustainable high load scenarios. Objectives: - Keep it simple. Whole system could be mounted easily without cutting, drilling or welding. - Use as fewer parts as you can. - Keep it cheap. - Use standard and worldwide available common parts. - Make it sturdy yet, flexible enough to accommodate engine vibrations. Parts list: - Skoda Felicia 1.6 radiator: 6U0121253. Active cooling area: 590x285mm. (Perfect fit to the standard mounting points of the old radiator.) - Felicia full fan cover 6U0121207 with a six blade fan 165959455G if you don't already have it installed on the smaller 1.3 radiator. - Renault Clio/Kangoo cooling system pipe: 7700869985. (Only a little modification required) - Lada Niva 1700 upper radiator hose: 21213130302500 - 2x Heavy Duty Pipe Clamp (Bracket Type) With Rubber Profile. Size 3/4". Like this one: https://pasteboard.co/KeVOuuC.png - 3/4" Hose joiner. Like this: https://pasteboard.co/KeVPidg.jpg - 10cm long 3/4" car coolant compatible hose. - 2x 20-30mm hose clamp. - 2x 28-48mm hose clamp. - 2x 6x15 bolts. Allen head or hexagon head recommended. - 2x 6.4x12 washers. - 2x 6.4x20 washers. - 2x 6.4 split lock washer. - 2x M6 nuts. - Depending on your cable setup, cables and/or connectors may be required for thermal switch relocation. How to install: - You start by removing battery connections. Important for safety! (I prefer removing both. Negative first, positive second. Installation is reverse order.) - Drain the coolant. Don't let it run away even if you are not planning to use it again. It's poisonous. Dispose with responsibility. - Remove all radiator hoses and electrical connections to the fan. If you have anything else attached to radiator/fan assembly for structural support, remove them too. Fan shroud bolts on the bottom side and they are hard to remove so you will have to remove radiator and fan assembly together in one move. Have a helper to hold cables and hoses out of your way so they won't be damaged. Especially watch for the upper radiator hose. Don't scratch it with sharp metal edges. Watch for where you are holding the radiator. Thin radiator fins are VERY prone to bend. This will reduce efficiency of the radiator. You will see two L shaped metal brackets on top of the radiator. When you remove those two bolts, whole assembly will be ready to pickup. Radiator removed: https://pasteboard.co/KeWe6Jr.jpg Check for your rubber bushings. If they are worn or missing, replace them. - There is a plastic air deflector at the right side. Installed from factory as a place holder for future upgrades like a larger radiator or an additional radiator for oil cooler. We need that extra space right now for our larger radiator. So it needs to be removed. Plastic wind deflector: https://pasteboard.co/KeWftsS.jpg It's secured in its place by plastic pins. One pin is easily accessible through engine bay but other pin is only accessible if you remove the right headlight. Old plastics become brittle so don't worry if you break one of the pins like me. If there will be need arises to return to original setup again. Pin location can be drilled and a seperate plastic pin can be used. Air deflector removed: https://pasteboard.co/KeWkFv6.jpg Notice the red arrows pointing the holes in the front frame above. There are holding clamps for headlight height adjustment hose. We will use those holes for our pipe clamps. - Before installing the Renault pipe, preparation is needed. We won't need or want this bracket on this side of the pipe so it needs to be gone. https://pasteboard.co/KeWmYju.jpg It's edge welded. So only a little cut will set it free. Be careful not to damage the pipe. Bracket removed: https://pasteboard.co/KeWomEr.jpg This is the place where our hose clamp will clamp so smooth out the surface. I also applied some nail enamel to cover the sanded area. https://pasteboard.co/KeWqOOY.jpg - Now the unexpected and annoying part with the pipe: https://pasteboard.co/KeWrnGi.jpg I've discovered this after cutting that bracket so couldn't return it. It seems to be a lazy manufacturing attempt. Check yours before buying. I've did my best to correct it. https://pasteboard.co/KeWuosA.jpg You are looking inside of a 30mm pipe. - Mount the Renault pipe using pipe clamps: https://pasteboard.co/KeWA8se.jpg https://pasteboard.co/KeWB6wE.jpg https://pasteboard.co/KeWBXqs.jpg All connections are loose at this stage. You will need to adjust whole assembly with the hoses attached. Insert bolts from front with the order: Bolt, lock washer, small washer, car frame, pipe clamp, large washer, nut. Luckily you won't have to remove front bumper or anything to reach the bolts from front. You can access them from bumper grilles. https://pasteboard.co/KeWG46c.jpg Access to the heads is not straight though. You will need a long flexible extender. I used two screwdriver magnetic bit extensions. https://pasteboard.co/KeWH2uX.jpg When used multiple, they give you a little flex but I recommend flexible extensions. - Remove fan and its shroud from old radiator and bolt them on the new large one. - Install the radiator fan assembly to its new place. Watch for rubber bushing spacing below the radiator. You must feel them to align properly with the radiator feet. Screw in the two bolts holding the radiator from top. Radiator installed in its place: https://pasteboard.co/KeWM7u3.jpg - Install top hose: https://pasteboard.co/KeWN0m8.jpg - Now the Lada niva hose comes to the rescue: https://pasteboard.co/KeXihyW.jpg You can see the parts marked as A,B and C. Use the end with sharp 90º turn (marked as A) between radiator exit an Renault pipe entry. Use the other end (marked as B ) between Renault pipe exit and engine entry pipe. The tricky part here is, carefully adjust the lengths of the hoses before cutting. If unsure, cut longer. Adjust whole assembly at this point. Important note: What is the C part for? That's for noise canceling. If you have a bottom splash shield like my car has, the chances are you will end up with a terrible rattling sound after finishing the project. You will have to drain the coolant again and insert that hose part before inserting part B. Part C should be inserted to the bottom of the engine entry pipe so it will fit between splash shield and metal pipe. https://pasteboard.co/KeXo7vg.jpg https://pasteboard.co/KeXovQH.jpg https://pasteboard.co/KeXprBT.jpg Part B and Part C marked: https://pasteboard.co/KeXrLEK.jpg - You haven't tighten the pipe clamps yet. Don't forget them. When adjusting the spacing of the Renault pipe with the main hose connections, tighten the pipe clamps when your setup is satisfactory. https://pasteboard.co/KeXtZO8.jpg https://pasteboard.co/KeXuP94.jpg https://pasteboard.co/KeXvegp.jpg - Coolant tank connection is easy but I made a mistake here too. 1.3 radiator coolant tank entry point diameter is 20mm but coolant tank exit diameter is 25mm ! I bought 50cm 3/4" coolant spec hose but couldn't fit it to the tank exit. It won't stretch that much. I didn't know tank exit diameter was different. So either use one piece 1" coolant hose or do it like me and use a hose joiner at the Renault pipe secondary entry point. 1" coolant hoses are harder to bend so I preferred this way. I didn't cut the original tank hose just a small extension at the end. So use the 10cm 3/4" hose here and join the hoses together with 3/4 hose joiner. https://pasteboard.co/KeXBGYf.jpg - Don't forget about the thermal switch and its cables. I use PTFE thread sealing tape on thermal switch rather than torquing too much. - Double check every connection. Every hose clamp. Don't forget the coolant draining plug. I use PTFE tape for that too. - Fill your coolant slowly. Check for any leak. Bleed the system properly. - Connect the battery. - Fire up the engine and test stationary for any leak. Check temp gauge regularly. Place your hand on the top radiator hose and wait for thermostat opening. You will feel the heat when thermostat opens. From that moment check by touching different places of the radiator and the bottom hoses and pipes you have built. Both for feeling the heat and any leakages. If anything seems suspicious stop and fix. Radiator dimensions for comparison: https://pasteboard.co/KeXJjNX.jpg https://pasteboard.co/KeXKIAf.png https://pasteboard.co/KeXLhHxC.jpg Initial test results shows it is noticeably better at the long hill I have to climb every day but how much? I'm planning to record a similar video like video before with similar conditions to compare the the results. I hope you find this post useful.

Meanwhile, I did an experimental work for a better cooling but I couldn't test it properly. Details will be here.

Thanks! No it won't stay. I tried it. I only wanted to know if everything was normal. Thanks for verifying. You mean the common relay that is connected to 5,6,7th fuses? When I got the car, I've searched for a cable that would be coming from other side of the firewall for radiator fan. I couldn't find such a cable. The fan had been connected from alternator terminal. It works independently from key switch. I've been looking for an alternate. Hopefully I'll replace it with a medium value.

He is just a knowledgeable fella trying to be honest with you. Let me explain. How we move our limbs isn't hydraulic? You make your own valve clearance adjustments too right? So you are self adjusting the valves with your hydraulic arms. In this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7X_b0qmk0d4 He tells us that LPG shop can't make it proper because they can't take the heavy and expensive devices with the car and make the adjustments on the road with real load conditions. (For carburetor engines of course) So @D.FYLAKTOS way with a lambda gauge on board is the way to go. Thanks!

Positive and encouraging. That's my motto all the time too. @D.FYLAKTOS believe me or not but your signature has became an inspiration for me. I want to call my car "Trusty" too. That's not just a name. You earn it.

Thanks RicaroM. We worked a lot on the car and still there is much more to be done. I'm glad the car is designed so easily repairable. So this is a place where old Skodas can still be found. Just a side note, I'm not a fan of brands, types or the colors of the cars. At the end of the day, all you could ask for is well maintained cars, flowing in a harmony.

I prepared a video about how the car performs on a day like this. Today was over 35ºC. This is a fast road. (120Km/h limit) I tried to keep my speed as fast as possible and tried to keep up with the traffic. Limiting factors are, traffic, overheating and max speed limit. Normally the temp sits at first line from the bottom. When going uphill, it quickly climbs. When it reaches flat position, I tried to keep it there. So no more gas even if it can go faster. Details about the car: - 1993 Skoda Forman LX (I'm owner from January. Multiple previous owners. Unknown milage. I found an old bill when working inside the car. That indicates 160K Km dated 2004) Current mileage just over 100K. The car runs on LPG. - 80ºC new Vernet thermostat - Calorstat by Vernet 68-82 new thermal switch. (Installed for summer, the car had 87-92 before) - New magneti-marelli radiator. - Fuchs Ethylene glycol based blue antifreeze with %50 distilled water. (The car had murky coolant which had -10ºC measured capacity when I got it. Flushed twice with distilled water and used 50/50 with the same brand ever since) - Castrol GTX UltraClean 10W40 Semi-synthetic motor oil. New. - Bosch 165959455G VW six blade fan motor with Felicia full fan cover 6U0121207. (Direct connection to battery. Runs after full stop) - VW Vento 5.5" steel rims with 175/70 R13 summer tires. - Unknown gearbox ratios. - Unknown status of water pump. - New headgasket. Details about video: - 30 min. trip in a fast road. - Two people in the car. - ABS light is connected to the fan. - All windows are closed after short time from the beginning. - The car is on gasoline in the first part. When returning, I switched to LPG on the road. After 16 min. the car is acting weird and shaking for a short duration. That's gasoline to LPG transition. Leftover gasoline in the carburetor makes a too rich mixture. Timecode: - 00:00~01:10 40Km/h to 80Km/h acceleration. - 01:10~04:00 Hill climb 80Km/h - 04:00~05:30 Downhill idle 100Km/h - 05:30~06:20 Downhill full throttle to 120Km/h - 06:20~7:40 slight up&down. Fast. 100Km/h - 07:40~9:00 hill climb with 80Km/h - 09:00~10:10 slight down, slight up 80Km/h - 10:10~13:30 long climb with 80Km/h HIGH TEMP! - 14:00~16:00 turn back - 16:00~17:30 switch to LPG (Down to normal temp again) - 17:30~20:00 downhill - 20:00~20:30 bridge cross - 20:30~21:50 steep hill climb 70Km/h High Temp again. - 21:50~22:50 steep downhill not enough to cool down - 22:50~26:00 hill climb start with already hot engine. speed down to 60Km/h - 26:00~26:45 Finish. Could you please tell me what you think about generally everything that is out of ordinary? I had no cars before so I don't know how a 40kW car performs or how a Favorit performs. What do you think about the cooling system?

Well... I don't know if the gearbox was replaced before. If so, the mechanics here usually fix everything plug&play type. I know, the same gearbox has different ratios for different vehicles. Mine could be any of them. 4th gear does 80Km/h under 3000rpm. Maybe the tachometer is inaccurate. I agree with you. Good to hear that too. So I can eliminate another factor. Must have guessed that. Smartphones act like this too. So I have tried these suggestions and had some success. I've almost completely disassembled the cooling system already. There was the metal pipe at the bottom that I didn't touch. I've removed that too but it was clean. No debris came out. I've also bought a brand new Vernet 80ºC thermostat too. Old one was probably a random brand. Result was no change in cooling performance. Mixture ratio adjustment had the most positive effect on cooling so far. That was a great help! You were right. Mixture was lean. Also some resources about LPG setup was completely BS. It's like everything I've learned about those resources were wrong. That was a great letdown. I've felt angry,sad but happy at the same time. I've readjusted the mixture, but this time from British and German resources. Without precision tools. It's impossible to make it perfect. I know. But even with this setting I've achieved, engine does not stall at high speeds, there is noticeable cooling improvement, engine feels slightly more powerful especially at acceleration from full stop. LPG consumption is still the same. The new resources for LPG setting: http://www.diy-lpg.co.uk/articles/files/tuning-open-loop.html https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7X_b0qmk0d4 Why are you not going to a professional shop to make the LPG setting? you ask right? Believe me, It's hard to find the right people to get things right. A lot people are complaining about LPG shop adjustments. For LPG shop, this is a trash job. Time consuming to adjust and not worth their time they think. On cars with ECU, LPG settings are programmed. They are monitored by on board computers. If anything goes wrong that means $$$ to the shop. Open loop system solely depends on suction. Even a minor leak from filter box will change the mix ratio. To make things proper and reliable I need a lambda and/or exhaust temp sensor on dashboard. For now, new settings are satisfactory. I wanted to install factory spec 80º thermostat and 82-87ºC thermo-switch but it's almost impossible to find 82-87 or 80-85 from reputable manufacturers. That's mostly because general application and demand here. General approach here about thermal setup of "thermally problematic" cars around here is seasonal set-ups. Summer setting parts are consist of 74º thermostat 82-68 sw. Winter setting is 88º thermostat and 87-92 sw. When you go to a parts shop, they ask you not the value but: "do you want a thermal switch for winter? or summer?" If you walk into a parts store in these hot summer days and ask for a 87-92 switch, It's not uncommon to hear things like: "Don't buy that one. It's winter switch! You will burn the engine! " So, in between values are somewhat extinct. @Thefeliciahacker , @KenONeill , @RicardoM Thanks for all the help. I wish to find a way to repay you somehow.

Thanks! You dig to get gold or gems right? I've found your emerald custom gauge set too. I really liked that one. I'm maybe the 5th or 6th user. It's unknown. Previously there was a 87-92. It's hard to find 80-85 or factory spec 82-87. At least from reliable manufacturers. Yes. Exactly. This one is a Vernet TS6993. This is a picture of the switch: https://pasteboard.co/Ke4EGvu.jpg Nowadays over 35ºC. Summer days are usually between 30-35ºC. Seasonal peaks may reach 40ºC. Winter days are usually between -5, +10ºC. There are a few extremely cold days in almost every winter. Which will drop to -15ºC.

You are welcome. I will keep an eye on your future posts too. Formans are more rare than Felicias or Favorits. We must keep it up.

LPG mixer has a coolant connection. Also there is an electric valve for heater. These make the bleeding complicated. Usually it takes some time for the system to let out all the remaining air. I'll see. That's what I'm afraid of. If I can borrow an high speed fan. I'll try it. Yes. I'm aware of that. I always try to keep the rpm at green zone.

We have the same cars, bought them at a similar time. I had no previous experience. First time car owner. I had to work every day on the car to keep it moving. Yet disgusting problems show up time to time. The problems I faced so far %70 previous owners' ignorance and previous mechanics' mischievous fixes. Rest is age related. Here is one example: https://pasteboard.co/KbXGNT3.jpg There is something here that had been done intentionally by a human being to achieve something in a very very wrong way. This was one of the most terrible finds about the car and one of the most disappointing one. Some times I felt just like you, "throw the car in a ditch". I worked on carburetor and brakes too and those were hard for a beginner like me. I know you have come a long way. Keep the good work up.

Thanks. That is a one piece solution for sealing mechanical pump mount and create a mounting point for a Suzuki electrical fuel pump. I've included more details about that in my other thread about leaking fuel pump problem. They found an unacceptable gap between 2nd and 3rd cylinders. That means a warped head. Naturally they asked me to find the source of the overheating issue or this would happen again.

I think I will record a video later to show you how the car performs. This photo is not mine I've found it on internet but it shows just the point when the fan switches on. When driving at straights it will stay there. When climbing begins, it quickly climbs too. Strange thing is, it slows down and stays for a while at pointing straight level. That's 90º I presume. If the climb goes on, it will slowly go up. Giving the impression that it will eventually go up to the red section. I always try to keep the rev at green section with minimal gas when climbing. I'm not an aggressive driver. Instead of trying to force the car, I try to keep it to the side to let everyone pass. BEFORE the head gasket repair, one day, we hit the road. 4 people inside the car. On the highway, there are sections with slight climbing. Those are the worst. I was going with 80KM/h at 4th gear. Full throttle. I don't remember the RPM but I'm sure it was well above 2000. That was the most scary day. The temp gauge needle was nowhere near the red section but it was all time high. I marked it on the picture. Climb ended at that point and there was a slight descent this time. I accelerated up to 120Km/h easily BUT the temp didn't come down as fast as it should. My impression is, there is not enough free airflow to the radiator. Like something is blocking it. I think fan shroud is a two sided blade. While it's maximizing effectiveness of the small radiator, when there is not free airflow (dense traffic conditions in the city) it also severely cripples free airflow when the car has speed. To this time I never had any aggressive temp gauge movement in dense traffic conditions in the city. Always on slow paced steep climbs (below 40KM/h) or faster climbs (over 60Km/h) Oh, I almost forgot. The car I have has been equipped with three piece splash shields, plus a heavy sump cover over that. So there is no air coming to the sump. Some of the Favorit/Forman/Felicia cars I saw before didn't have these parts. I'm sure this effects cooling too. I'm not an experienced car owner but I think a car's cooling system should be designed to handle full throttle. I think, if I go to a long trip in a sunny summer day, this car's cooling system won't be able to keep the car at a mere 100Km/h. As you pointed out, there may be still air in the coolant. I still have hope for better cooling. I will continue to update.

Having the oil not very contaminated encouraged me to to take the car for a short trip today. (Oil stick has no sign of mayo) Differences: I had to adjust LPG settings before hitting the road. idle RPM was low. This is not placebo, the engine definitely runs smoother and quieter at the same idle rpm. It runs so smooth now there are times I felt I stalled the engine. So this confirms there was compression leak between cylinders. The initial crank is like modern injection cars. FAST! I turn the key, and the engine starts. This is with LPG! I haven't tried fuel yet. Hoses have noticeably less pressure. The engine runs cooler than before but not much. Today was 40ºC ish but engine heat was the same like days when temperature was 30-35. There is noticeable improvement but not miracles I hoped for. After all the work done, I fell more uncomfortable with inadequate cooling system. I have to do something about it. The previous owner gave me a list of parts that had been replaced before the sale. Head gasket was among them. So the story here is; the car was overheated and cylinder head was warped and the repair was done wrong. So it didn't last long as it should. (At least 50K kilometers I think) I never overheated the car. Only one possibility maybe a defective temp gauge which shows wrong. I will test that too. I bought new oil and oil filter. Before the head gasket work, I've collected the coolant. It looks very clean. Bright blue with minimal debris and no sign of oil so I filtered it with a folded, tight woven cloth and reused it. But when I think about combustion gasses leak to coolant, there may be chemical reaction. So it is a good idea to change the coolant too.

N 90881901 from what I've found. https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/favorit+form+pickup/fav/1991-107/2/253-253000/#30 Price: https://www.cc-autodily.cz/zatka-22-saci-potrubi?brand=SKODA How to replace: