R_Blue

Here is another point of view for you. Current situation will accelerate the shift to e-cars and autonomous driving systems. Manual shifting will be history with e-cars. After a short introduction phase to e-cars, autonomous driving systems will not be a luxury option. It will be a complete ban for human beings to drive vehicles. It's not for safety. It's for efficiency for traffic. Not just for individual cars anymore. Nothing can beat thousands of cars moving in unison on the roads, just like products moving on conveyor belts in factories. I don't know how long you keep your cars but this might be your last manual transmission car. Also, If I were living in somewhere considered better than a third world country, I would not consider investing in diesel cars anymore. They are at the first line on the ban list and If there would be any petroleum shortages in the future, diesel might be reserved for agriculture and heavy transport use only. Just my two cents.

Please, check this out too. "He who digs, finds" Old thread digger forever!

How one can take preventive maintenance on a radiator fan like this? This fan was on the car when I bought it. I don't know its wear status. How do I open it? I want to check carbon brushes, bearings etc. Last summer this fan was running like all time on. It's good to check before summer heat arrives. I also want to clean carbon residues inside of the motor housing. They tend to create conductive surfaces. Which in turn, creates unwanted heat and electrical losses.

😱😭. I was expecting to see something like this: (See 1:10)

Also check: (I don't know if those are applicable to Felicia)

Hello and welcome to the forum. Even seeing a Fun on the road makes me happy. Rare and beautiful. Every car should work like a Swiss clock. On modern cars, ECU makes that possible but it's not flexible for modding. ECU may not play nice with CAM modifications. From what I've read from some sources, you have two routes to take. Either go backwards and install carb(s) and make your further adjustments on the carb or go forward and install a custom ECU. Preferably one you can program on your own with an ordinary laptop. With a custom ECU, you can really have control over the engine. Otherwise, stock ECU will do what it does, ignoring critical modifications. Of course, I'm not an expert. Experienced members can offer better advice. 🙂

That's great. Really made my day. 🤣 I really enjoy watching those 80s and 90s commercials. Looks like SAAB invested lots of time and effort for that commercial. Back in 80s and 90s another great way to sell your cars was winning rallies. That's what Škoda invested in. Did you know that 1994 FIA 2-Litre World Rally Cup champion was a Favorit 136L ? (With its 1.3 8V engine!) Competed against cars like: - Opel Astra GSi 16V - Volkswagen Golf III GTi 16V - Opel Kadett GSI 16V - Renault Clio Williams - Nissan Sunny GTi - Hyundai Lantra - Honda Civic - Seat Ibiza GTi 16V - Ford Escort RS 2000 MKV ... and won! Holy cow! Also Favorit's favorite Rally was Acropolis rally. 😃 One of my most liked rally and it's tough. Škoda team won Acropolis Rally with Favorit in two consecutive years 93' and 94'.

I wonder how the good old Favorit or Felicia would perform in the moose test? All Alu engine and the engine is placed very low. Also car's overall weight is low too. These should help right? On the other side, stock suspension is soft and the car is not wide. Couldn't find any info on the net. What do you think?

Mine is beyond repairable, so that was in my to-buy list. Last time when I checked online, the part was available for Favorit and Felicia too. (Not interchangeable). Now I've checked again and not available anymore in my area. Part number for Felicia is 6U1941331A. They sell it as a whole kit. Pre-filled. Like this: There is a whole topic here, six pages long, dedicated to headlight level adjusters: https://www.skoda-techweb.cz/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10933 They discuss repair and modification options here. Some say, new hydraulic headlight level adjusters would only last 1.5 or 2 years. Electric conversion is a longer lasting option. DIY: https://www.feliciaklub.cz/navody/elektricke-naklapeni-svetel.html https://skoda-virt.cz/cz/clanky/elektrika/1568-elektricke-naklapeni-svetel-felicia/?fromOld=1 Also there is an aftermarket conversion kit which converts original hydraulic system to electrical: https://www.sp-el.cz/elektricke-naklapeni-svetel

Welcome @danilob. From the info on the on the sticker, your alternator is a HELLA CA1626IR. Which is a 14V 90A unit. Also, I think"remanufactured" means, that alternator had been renovated before. By judging from alternator's voltage output and overall condition, it needs another renovation. My suggestion is; don't buy a new alternator if you can't find a good one from a reputable brand. The corroded and broken bolt is a part of the diode array. Which is a replaceable part. Depending on their condition, new bearings could be needed. If you can remove the alternator yourself and take it to a machine shop, which has a bearing press, the overall cost will be minimum. The slip rings look like mine before renovation. Cleaning them with no:1000 sand paper should be enough. There are at least two physically different diode array models for our cars. First difference to observe is the diode array's bolt count. Your model looks like a 4+1. (4 earth + 1 live) There are 3+1 bolt diode arrays too. Like mine. I've heard that, some alternator brands make their models not compatible with standard internal parts. I'm not %100 sure but some Bosh alternators might not be compatible with standard alternator parts. I don't know about Hella. Dealing with rusted bolts is a headache. Apply some GT-85 or WD-40 and wait. When applying force, be careful for your hands. Expect a sudden release. --------------------------------------------- I also saw oil leak in front of the engine. That's usually from the oil cap, cam cover seal (047103727) or engine head cover seal (047103483). Good news, these seals are cheap and very easy to replace.

AKA "Macaroni"

Another six years means 2028! Considering the shift to e-cars in 2030 and living in the UK means your next engine topic may be in the electric conversion section. Fair enough. This is so unfortunate...☃️❄️ ❄️ With a low compression 135 engine, acceptable. I wouldn't raise compression ratio of a 136 engine too much. 1.4 Fabia crank upgrade seems more plausible.

Before trying anything more harder, you can try changing only the end part of the blue wire and its terminal. Corrosion usually affects the cable starting from its tip. Rest of the cable inside the wrapped loom may be OK. Cut the blue wire 2cm from its end. Strip and check. If the copper inside is black or green, repeat the process until you see clear copper. Extend the cable by soldering same gauge cable to its original length. Insulate using shrink tube and/or insulator tape. End the tip using a new crimp terminal. Still having problems? That means there is something else in other parts of the circuit.

Autodoc UK has new aftermarket heads. https://www.autodoc.co.uk/vika/14021663 @areed What will you do next? You've kept calm so far. I respect that. Also I've found this: What do you think about the engine in the video above?

@nta16 Just like you. I'm not expert or mechanic too. I'm posting my findings usually like "maybe, might" or asking questions about the idea. Some repair shops advice using thick HG for heads with multiple skims applied. I don't know about long term results of a thick HG. Solid info I've already shared with the community here is this: Above picture is from my HGF repair topic. The pictured HG above is for 1.4 Fabia with engine codes AZE AME AQW. Made by Elring. I used this on a '93 Forman with 135 engine.

@areed had posted pictures of the previous head gasket too. @areed 's previous head gasket was a TEMAC. From your previous posts, I think you are not the first owner of the car. So we don't know the exact number of HG replacement. Important questions now: - How will the head look like when it's cleaned? What's the current situation of the surface? (Straightness of the entire head surface and status of the previous pits especially around coolant holes) - Can the head skimmed further if needed? - I've heard about a filler material for the corrosion pits. That must be applied before skimming. (not sure about the product name JB Weld Extreme heat ???) - Will applying JB Weld Extreme Heat to fill the pits, skimming the head again and using thicker head gasket save the head? Or at least buy enough time for justifying the effort? There are "thicker than normal" head gaskets on the market. Which might help to solve the issue.

"Felicia 1.3 Cylinder Head Corrosion Around Coolant Ways" topic was a great source of help for me for my HG change. Thanks for documenting the repair. Of course the main credit goes to @RicardoM for his invaluable help in both your topic and later, in mine. Both old topic and this one should be cross evaluated for understanding the issue better. This is a very valuable source of info now. We have same engine here with its past and present pictured together. I'm not an expert. My first observation from past pictures: This was head surface after the skim. It seems, more deep skim was impossible because, as you can see in the picture, skim limit indicator notch is very close to the surface. This is also a flat head piston engine. (136) I think I read somewhere, higher compression in engines could lead to premature HG failure. Flat head pistons + deep skim means even higher compression. HG is also 6 years old and more importantly how many miles did it cover?

My TOPIC is done for. New topic: My Felly Resurrections

Exactly. In these cold days I get full 14.2 sometimes even 14.3 at most. (Idle with no extra electrical load) My alternator is the 55A model.

So what happens if you replace rear brake cylinders from 19.05mm to 22.2mm on a Felicia with ABS system? @Thefeliciahacker says a calibration is needed. Maybe he means reprogramming of the ABS module. I don't know if that is possible.

You are welcome. It was a pleasure. I missed one part in my previous post: Brake booster for ABS models: 6U0612105 Is it possible to calibrate ABS system? @R_U_AFA do you have ABS in your car?

Rear brakes on these models are called "self adjusting". That means, brake mechanism will compensate thinner brake pads as they wear. Of course it is not related to anti-lock brake-bias. In the pictures above there is a vertical spring. It is connected to a wedge shaped metal part that slides down as the pads get thinner. So the vertical spring holds the pads always as close to the drums as possible. Automatically reducing pad travel, minimizing cylinder travel thus, always giving the minimum pedal travel. Other than that, the only adjustment about rear brakes is; the hand brake cable adjustment. It's located under the plastic cover of the hand brake lever. Of course this is valid for Favorit and Forman. I've searched for more info and this is what I've found: Fav. based vehicles: Pre.'93 models have different master cylinders and and all rear brake/drum setup is different than '93+. (WV spec.) Favorit/Forman has 19.05mm rear cylinders. Pickup has 22.2mm rear cylinders. Also Favorit/Forman and pickup models do not use the same master cylinder. This one above is Favorit pickup master cylinder. OEM code: 116595013 The second master cylinder here belongs to Favorit/Forman. OEM code: 115595015 As you can see Favorit/Forman master cylinder has larger bores for fitting pressure regulating valves. The pressure regulating valves are also different for Favorit and Forman. Favorit: 115595320 Forman: 116595321 This is how they are connected in Favorit/Forman. (In my case, you can see it in previous post, looks like I have pickup master cylinder and brake pipes are connected directly.) Pickup setup is special. Needs extra care because pickup models face extreme load conditions on both sides that other models never endure. Pickups are designed to carry heavy loads rather than carrying people. So there are more powerful brake cylinders in the rear brakes but when unloaded they will be a lot lighter than a car sharing the same platform. The solution to this technical challenge is this: @Thefeliciahacker has posted on previous page about it's adjustment. Now what about Fellys? Felicia master cylinder is completely different than Fav. The most important detail about Felicia brake system is the ABS. Brake booster: (Without ABS) 007486201A (10.94 - 07.95) 6U0612107 Master cylinder: 6U0611019 (Without ABS) 6U0698019 (ABS) Rear cylinders: 6U0 611 053 B: Felicia 135/136 (19.05mm) 6U0 611 053: Felicia 1.6MPI / 1.9D (20.6mm) 6U0 611 053 A: Pickup (22.2mm) Same deal with pressure regulating valves. Non-ABS models have pressure regulating valves attached directly to the master cylinder: 007486201M: Felicia hatchback 007486203M: Felicia estate Now the REAL question: If you upgrade a Felicia hatchback which has ABS with 22.2mm rear cylinders, will ABS compensate the extra braking power? Also ABS Felicias have different rear brake backplate for speed sensor placement.

What do you think about my case? I didn't know about different brake limiter setups when I bought the car. Look at this picture please: No limiters here. I rebuilt rear wheel assembly too. I still have the old parts laying around. I've just took these: As you can see this is 22mm. My rear brake setup was pickup style without any limiter. (Pickup has an in-line limiter from factory installed between chassis and beam axle. [Load sensitive] ) I didn't know all of these when buying parts for the work. I bought 19mm cylinders from Forman catalogue. When disassembling, I've noticed the cylinders had different tips. 19mm cylinder heads are flat. 22mm are not as you can see in the picture above. It was during a lock-down so I've installed what I had. (Old pictures) I never had a rear wheel lock neither before nor after this work. The LPG tank is a permanent load but it's not a big one. I don't know how much those tanks weight. Also I think wider tires help braking efficiency. I have 175/70/R13. Instead of stock 165s. Maybe I should too switch back to 22mm. What do you think about all of this?

That's wise. I agree.

I think it depends on some variables. - Quality of gaskets. - Mating surface condition. - Some mating surfaces endure more physical stress than others. - Age of the car. My car is old and it seems a lot repair work had been done before.There is black sealant on every mating surface. I used sealant between carburetor and intake manifold and very satisfied with the result. I didn't use any sealant when mounting intake and exhaust manifolds and I got both exhaust and coolant leak. I'd say, if you suspect the quality of the gasket or overall condition of the mating surfaces, use sealer.